LG washing machine door repair. Repairing the washing machine door yourself

All tips

Anyone can repair a washing machine door. House master who has the desire to do everything on his own. There is no need for haste in this work. You need to prepare for it.

Before you start working, you need to:

Study the structure and manufacturing features of the door.
Familiarize yourself with the basic techniques that specialists use when performing repairs.
Prepare tools to do the job.
Purchase the necessary auxiliary materials and original spare parts.
If necessary, prepare equipment for making elements yourself.

Washing machine hatch door design

After determining the algorithm of actions, you should decide what and how you will have to do in order for the washing machine door to start functioning again.

Major breakdowns

As practice shows, the following damage may be detected at the washing machine door:

The glass was broken as a result of careless opening.
The latch is damaged. It sometimes jams after closing the door.
Broken plastic support on the hinge.

These breakdowns are detected upon careful examination. All that remains is to choose the right tool and make repairs.

Repair tool

The main tool for any repair household appliances is a screwdriver. It is used to unscrew and tighten the removed units and fragments of the product. Here you should clarify the type of bits used. Imported washing machines, in addition to the usual cross ones, often use asterisks different sizes or curly profiles. You need to have them on hand. Bit extensions may also be required.

Using magnetized extensions will help hold the screws when driving into deep holes.

Other types of tools are also specified from the repair videos. You need to have them in your arsenal to produce quality work.

Latch repair

Latches most often develop nicks on the lever that enters the hole. They hinder normal operation. The procedure for troubleshooting is simple:

The door from the machine is unscrewed and placed on the table.
Using a needle file or a file with a fine notch, the notch is ground off.
Before installing it in place, you need to apply graphite lubricant, and then wipe off the excess so that the graphite does not stain the items intended for washing.
The door is returned to its place and secured with screws.

On some washing machine doors you can remove the latch. If the design allows removal, then it is better to remove it and fix it when turning in a vice.

Repair of damaged glass

Damaged glass is more difficult to repair. Here you will need to use polyester or epoxy resin. After removing the door, you should consider possibility of removing glass. Most often it is not removed. Therefore, they repair it like this:

A plastic film is glued to the front surface. You may need to use tape. Gaps are not allowed.
Reinforcing tape is placed on the existing hole that requires sealing (it is used for plastering work).
Prepare the resin in a separate container according to the instructions. Mix the base and hardener in the required proportions.
After preparing the resin, it is poured into the desired location.
Typically polymerization occurs within 24 hours. After this time, the plastic film is removed.
Smudges are removed using sandpaper.

This is how easy it is to repair the glass on a washing machine door.

Plastic support repair

To repair the support, perform the following operations:

The support is removed.
The broken part is connected and fixed in a vice.
To repair damage, use a nail with a diameter of 4 mm. It is cut down to the required length.
A through hole with a diameter of 3.8 mm is drilled in the combined broken support.
The nail is held with pliers, heated to a temperature of approximately 180 °C, and then inserted into drilled hole.
After cooling for two to three minutes, you can assemble the door and put it in place.

With a little effort, you can repair any product with your own hands, including the washing machine door

If you follow the washing machine manual exactly, there will be no problems with its door. This is a simple detail that does not require complex, but mandatory rules for use. If your washing machine door is broken, it's easy to fix.

Drain all the water from the washer and turn off the power. Open the hatch to inspect the parts.

Use a dielectric screwdriver.

If the handle breaks off and the car hatch is blocked:

Use emergency opening if the device has one. Pull the lever or cable under bottom panel, in the area of the drain filter.
If a piece of the handle remains, try opening the hatch with pliers.
Insert the rope between the frame and the lock side of the door and pull both ends, pushing down on the lock.
Try to reach the blocker manually through the top of the car. Remove the top cover of the device and try to open the lock that closes the door.

Typical faults and solutions

There are 5 common problems with the door and in all these cases the device is easy to fix.

Parts that may be damaged:

latch,
glass,
plastic support,
pen.

UBL malfunction

If the hatch locking device stops working, it could become clogged. Disassemble the element, check for obstructions and clean. Most often, the UBL stops blocking normally due to overheating. In this case, the part cannot be restored.

To dismantle the device and install a new one, you will need two screwdrivers: a Phillips and a slotted one.

Pry up the clamp with a slotted screwdriver and remove. It looks like a circle made of a steel spring and wire.
Remove the part of the cuff in the area where the lock is attached.
Unscrew the pair of screws that secure the lock.
Take out the device by hand and pull off the chip.
Install the new UBL by placing it inside the washing machine and tightening the screws.
Put the cuff back on.
Install the clamp into place using two screwdrivers. After completing the steps, everything should work.

Latch problem

If the door breaks, check the lock of the washing machine. A problem may be indicated by the absence of a click when the hatch closes. The lever that fits into the hole may become nicked. Because of them, the device stops closing.

Unscrew the door and place it on the table. Remove nicks with a file. Apply graphite lubricant, and then remove the excess so as not to damage your clothes with it during washing. All that remains is to install the door.

If the latch is severely deformed, it is easier to replace it with a new one than to repair the lock. This procedure can take a long time and there is no guarantee that it will be possible to achieve washing machine V working condition. It's better to spend a little money than to be caught off guard by a lock that doesn't work properly. Sometimes the problem is not the latch at all, but loose fasteners and hinges. In this case, adjust the position of the hatch so that the latch fits easily into the hole.

Glass damaged

If the glass in the door is removable and you can order a new one, this will the best option. If it is not possible to remove the glass, all that remains is to repair the damaged element of the washing machine. To do this you will need polyester or epoxy resin.

To remedy the situation, tape the polyethylene to the front side of the glass, leaving no gaps. Cover the damaged area with reinforcing tape, which is used for plastering work. Prepare the resin: mix the base and hardener in the specified proportion.

Pour the mixture into the damaged area and wait for polymerization. After a day, remove the plastic wrap. Remove smudges with sandpaper and the glass will look like new.

Broken plastic support

Even in good ones washing machines plastic deteriorates over time due to neglectful use of the device. If the support breaks, the hatch may not fit tightly, creating a risk of flooding. If this part becomes damaged, remove it and secure the damaged part with a vice. The diameter of the nail should be 4 mm. Cut it to the desired length, if it is different.

Drill a 3.8 mm through hole in the support. Hold the nail with pliers and heat to 180ºC. After this, insert it into the drilled hole and wait 3 minutes for the nail to cool. All that remains is to assemble the door and install it in place.

Broken handle

Since the handle on the door is made of plastic, it cannot be repaired at home. To replace the element, remove the door and remove the screws holding the plastic rims in place. Install a new handle.

The door can quickly break due to excessive physical force. Be careful, because you don’t need much force to use the machine. When serious damage Contact a specialist, because you need to be one hundred percent sure of the quality of the repair.

We disassemble and repair a washing machine with front loading

IN separate section passed PHOTO LESSONS.

This article describes the disassembly method for the most common models of front-load washing machines. Let's take the Hansa car as an example. . One way or another, there may be some design differences in other models of washing machines, however, this manual can also be used when repairing other models of front-loading washing machines.

A necessary tool for disassembling an automatic washing machine.

1 One of the Phillips screwdrivers

2 Flat head screwdriver

3 Wrench 19

4 8/9 wrench

5 Pliers 1472-Beta for self-clamping clamps, wire cutters

6 Simple wire cutters

7 Pliers

8 Bent long pliers

Service hook

Let's start disassembling the washing machine

Removing the top panel

To do this, you need to use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws that secure the top panel to the casing, as shown in the picture.

Let's lift with one hand back panels, then use your other hand to slide the top panel towards the rear wall until it is released.

Remove the top panel after it is unhooked

Removing the control panel

To do this, you need to remove the detergent dispenser, as shown in the figure below.

After this, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws that are designed to secure the detergent dispenser drawer to the front panel

Rotate the panel 90 degrees

Unhooking the panel from the mounting pawl

Next we will needservice hook for turning the control panel at an angle of 180 degrees and hanging the panel on the side wall of the automatic washing machine. To do this we use a service hook. We insert the longer end into the hole in the pull-out tray, and attach the shorter end to the side wall of the washing machine.

This is what it will look like from above

This is what it will look like from below

And this is what it will look like from the side

Removing the service panel

To do this you need to use a Phillips screwdriver. We unscrew the screws that secure the service panel to the two side walls of the washing machine.

Using a small crowbar, carefully separate the service panel. Please note that only plastic or wooden crowbars should be used to remove painted panels.

Using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the hatch door clamp, or, to be more precise, the front part. Then manually unhook the cuff from the central panel of the washing machine as shown in the figures below.

After uh then remove the center panel

To do this, we need a Phillips screwdriver, which we need to unscrew all 4 screws that secure the side walls of the washing machineand the central panel.

We dismantle the central panel along with the car window.

Using pliers, loosen the clamp on the hose that goes from the recirculation valve to the tank. Then remove the hose from the distributor ( Jet-System ), as shown in the figure below.

Remove the clamp

After this, use pliers to loosen the clamp on the hose that goes from the pressure switch container to the hose. Disconnect the hose from the pressure switch and remove the hose from the cuff of the washing machine door.

Remove the clamp

Disconnect the hose

Disconnect the hose from the cuff and remove it completely.

In order to remove the hatch cuff, use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the screw cuffs on the tank.

Loosen the screw cuffs on the tank

After this, you need to use a flat screwdriver to remove the cuff clamp from the tank.

Remove the clamp from the tank

After these steps, you need to unhook the hatch door cuff.

Remove the cuff from the drum

Reassembly

Reassembly should be done in exactly the reverse order.

Please remember that when reassembling the machine, the door seal should be secured in such a way that vertical axis washing machine matched the signΔ on the cuff. Make sure the bleeder groove is on the opposite side of this icon. It should be located at the very bottom of the cuff

The cuff clamp screws should be installed in such a way that their heads are located at the same level with the free brace mounting pin.

Cuff marker

We begin to repair the car after disassembling

When replacing the V-belt, proceed as follows:

We remove the top panel, and then use pliers to remove the spring that supports the washing unit.

Remove the V-belt while simultaneously turning it on the pulley

Installing the reverse belt is done in reverse order.

Please note that the V-belt must be placed on the roller in such a way that one groove remains free at the end of the roller. How to do this is shown in the figure below.

Right fitted V-belt

Wrong fitted V-belt

Pulley repair is carried out as follows:

Remove the top panel, then unhook it using pliers and disconnect itwashing unit spring and remove the V-belt. After this, you need to unscrew the nut that secures the pulley in the manner shown in the figure below.

Unscrew the pulley nut

After this, we remove the pulley itself.

Pulley removal

Remove the heating element and thermostat

To do this, you need to remove the service panel in the same way as described at the beginning of the article, then disconnect the wire from the heating element and unscrew the nut with which the heating element is fixed.

The heater is removed from the guide side. This should be done extremely carefully with those heating elements that are covered with a layer of scale. To install a new heating element, do the same operations in reverse order.

Changing the commutator motor

First you need to dismantle the unit top panel, and then remove the service panel. Remove the V-belt and remove the screws that secure the engine.

We dismantle the engine itself.

After this, disconnect the electrical connector from the engine as shown in the figure below.

After this, you should connect the new motor in the manner indicated in the electrical diagram. All other steps for assembling the machine must be carried out in the reverse order of this manual.

Repairing a self-cleaning drain pump

Let's start by dismantling the service panel, after which we unscrew the screws that secure the pump using a Phillips screwdriver.

Loosen the clamps and remove the pump.

After this, you can disconnect all connectors, which should be done very carefully so as not to damage the wires.

Connecting a new pump and reassembly machines are produced in reverse order.

Replacing the drain pump hose (tank-drain)

We start by removing the service panel, after which we loosen the clamps on the hose and change the hose itself.

Replacing the drain pump hose (pump-recirculation valve)

We remove the service panel, loosen the clamps on the hose and change the hose.

Repairing the detergent dispenser

We start by dismantling the toppanels, then remove the drawer and unscrew the screw that secures the detergent assembly. It is located on the control panel side.

Unhook the detergent assembly

Then disconnect the hoses from the detergent assembly. After this, you can replace the unit that was faulty

Repairing an anti-interference filter

Be sure to start the repair by disconnecting the power cord from the outlet, then remove the top panel and disconnect the power cord from the filter in the manner shown in the figure below. Then unscrew the screws that secure the filter.

After this, the filter can be removed from the hole and replaced.

Repairing the inlet valve

Disconnect the power cord from the network and turn off the water. Next, disconnect the water supply hose from the machine itself and remove the top panel. After this, disconnect the wires from the valve.

Remove the clamps from both hoses and remove them from the taps.

Unscrew the screw that secures the faucet.

After this you can replace it. Further operations for assembling the machine should be carried out in reverse order.

Repairing the washing machine hatch

Repair option for an assembled washing machine

First, open the hatch as wide as possible, then unscrew both fixing screws, pull out the hatch and change it.

Changing the window glass of a washing machine

First you need to unscrew all 10 screws that secure the glass

Then you should disconnect the inner ring subassembly from the sunroof glass.

After which you can begin replacing the glass in the sunroof.

Repairing the outer ring of the washing machine hatch

Just as in the case of glass repair, you should unscrew the 10 screws that secure the glass to the hatch. Put the inner ring aside along with the glass and remove the hatch handle subassembly and the hook assembly in the manner shown in the figure.

After these procedures, we will replace the inner ring and assemble the hatch in the reverse order.

Changing the inner ring

Just as in the two previous cases, unscrew the 10 screws thatOnce the window is secured, unhook the transparent elements of the inner ring, remove the hinge pin and the window hinge.

After these steps, you can replace the inner ring.

Changing the hatch handle

We unscrew the 10 screws that secure the window, remove and set aside the glass side of the hatch and the inner ring. Then we take out the handle subassembly and the hook assembly. We remove the spring and 2 pins from the handle subassembly in the manner shown in the figure.

After this, you can replace the hatch handle and reassemble the hatch in the reverse order.

Replacing the recirculation valve

We remove the service panel, disconnect the valve from the electric drive, remove the valve from its socket and disconnect the three hoses from it.

After that, we change the valve and install everything back into the washing machine in the reverse order.

We change the rubber elements of shock absorbers and the shock absorbers themselves

Changing shock absorbers

In order to replace a faulty shock absorber, you need to remove the top panel of the washing machine, remove the control panel and service panel.

After this, you can remove the center panel and gain access to the power wires, which need to be disconnected and pulled out of the casing. The wires should be disconnected from the solenoid valvea, heating element, pumps, recirculation valve and engine. It is recommended to sign all connectors.

Next, unscrew the screws that secure the top bar and loosen the clamp on the hatch cuff. After which you can remove the cuff from the central panel. Next, you need to unhook the electric drive harness from the hooks on the casing. Next, you need to unhook the spring that supports the washing unit and unscrew the screws that secure the casing to the base. Next, you need to remove the casing and disconnect all the hoses that are on the tank. You should lift the washing unit, freed from the spring, so that the shock absorber pin pops out. Be sure to prop up the washing unit after this.

After all these steps, you can remove the shock absorber from the rubber tab at the base.

Remove the rubber shock absorber element from the base.

Replace the shock absorber and reassemble the washing machine in the reverse order according to these instructions.

Repairing the drum subassembly

We start by dismantling the top panel, after which we remove the control panel and service panel. Next, dismantle the central panel and disconnect the hoses on the tank.

After this, you need to unscrew the front counterweight as shown in the figure below.

We halve the tank.

Unscrew the two screws and move them up a little.

Remove the V-belt from the shaft.

We unscrew the pulley, which is attached to one nut.

After this, remove the drum subassembly.

It should be remembered that the drum assemblies are at their most various types washing machines may have various options execution.

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Over time, parts of washing machines become unusable (the hatch does not latch, the doors are torn off, etc.), this is due to low-quality spare parts, negligent attitude of the owners towards the equipment and unfavorable external factors.

Door breakdowns occur quite often, and it is not easy to deal with it yourself - call the company’s specialists "Lenremont", and forget about problems in the operation of equipment from Evgo, Gorenje, Haier, Hansa, Indesit, Kaiser, Lg, etc. forever.

What are the dangers of washing machine hatch failures?

In addition to the fact that any problems with the washing machine Ariston, Asko, Malyutka, Favorit, Siltal, Liliya and other brands lead to malfunctions, some breakdowns can be dangerous to human health.

If the door does not latch after loading laundry, the closing sensor is broken - this will not allow the work process to start.
When the door is opened while the washing machine is operating, water will flow out of the tank, and if you touch the equipment, you may receive an electric shock.
In a situation where the lid does not open after the end of washing, it will not be possible to remove the laundry. Washing machines with poorly closed hatches require special careful attitude, pressing hard on the door can lead to jamming, after which the door does not open at all.
If the door lock does not work, water will leak into the machine through the broken lock, which is dangerous due to short circuit.

Remember! Is the machine not locking the door? Does it accidentally open during the spin cycle or does the hatch not open after the end of the cycle? In all these cases, the help of a specialist is required.

Major failures of the loading hatch of the washing machine

The loading hatch door of a washing machine is the most popular place in appliances, since it is the one that is subject to constant use when loading and unloading laundry. Due to excessive load, repair of the hatch and its components is often required even for modern washing machines Bauknecht, Bosch, Brandt, Braun, Candy, Daewoo, Electrolux, Euronova, etc.

Common problems with the washer hatch include:

loose fastenings– when the door swings strongly on the awnings, the mounting bolts should be replaced, tightened and lubricated;
the lid spring broke– in this case, the door will not close tightly the first time; you will need to make efforts to seal the hatch tightly before washing. Repairing the loading hatch lid should be carried out at the first symptoms of a breakdown in order to protect yourself from a situation where the lid does not work at all;
lock-lock failure- when the door lock does not work or when starting the washing program the machine says “hatch is open”, the problem lies in the breakdown of the locking device. In this case, the door closes but does not latch, the door sensor does not operate, and the system cannot receive a signal to start operation;
external damage– due to chips and cracks, water may seep out of the machine; to seal the crack in the door, in most cases it is enough to treat it with sealant on top. But if there are large holes, you will have to remove the front cover and replace it.

How to change the washing machine door

To replace the hatch on washing machines Miele, Renova, Rolsen, Rosenlew, Samsung, Saturn, Siemens, etc., call a professional technician from the Lenremont company. He will be able to change the hatch at home, so you don’t have to waste time transporting a large washing machine to a service center. The workflow goes like this:

the machine should be de-energized to repair the door without the risk of electric shock;
if the door breaks off, you can replace its fasteners and install the part back; if the hatch is completely broken, you will have to buy a new part;
Along with the door, it is also necessary to remove the fasteners, for which the upper cuff is lifted and the bolt is unscrewed;
to disconnect the hinge from the hatch, you will need to loosen the fasteners somewhat; you need to completely unscrew them when the door hinge breaks, in order to remove the damaged parts and install new ones in their place;
When the hatch is disconnected, it is convenient to replace it top cover etc. The two halves of the hatch unwind and are disconnected from each other (now you can install new glass, insert a hinge and replace other parts). Next, you need to put on the front cover and screw both halves with self-tapping screws until they stop;
the assembled hatch is placed in its original position, the loop is thrown onto the mount, and screwed. All that remains is to tighten the cuff and secure the outer clamp.

For safety reasons, washing machines used electronic lock, which blocks the door during washing. Thus, it cannot be opened until the wash and rinse are completely finished. After completion of the washing act and the corresponding sound signal, the door opens automatically. If the lock breaks, the washing process becomes impossible.

Diagnosis of lock malfunction

There are three most possible common problems with hatch lock:

After the washing process is completed, the lock does not open. In this case, to open the door you will have to disassemble the washing machine;
The door does not lock even after a characteristic click, and as a result, washing does not start. Thus, the control panel does not receive an informative signal about closing the hatch;
It is most dangerous when the door is not locked and the washing process begins, as water may spill out. The main components of the washing machine are also damaged as a result of depressurization.

After visual inspection You can determine if the blocker is faulty, but first you need to remove it.

How to remove an electronic lock

In front-loading washing machines, the lock is located to the right of the door. Dismantling the lock includes the following steps:

Drain the water and disconnect the unit from the network;
Remove the steel wire ring that presses the rubber gasket placed between the hatch and the drum against the machine body;
Move the rubber cuff in the area of the blocker so that you can get to it;
Unscrew the fastening bolts on the front panel (hold the lock with your hand so that it does not fall through);
Pull out the terminal that supplies power to the lock.

The lock installation process is performed in reverse order.

The principle of operation of the blocker

The lock body is made of plastic; at the end of the lock there is a large hole, which is intended for the hatch hook. The blocker housing contains:

A plate (usually made of metal) designed to engage a hook;
Pin and contacts transmitting a signal to the control module;
Thermistor;
Bimetallic plate that bends when heated.

When the door is closed, the hatch hook, falling into the holes of the lock, mechanically acts on the metal plate, placing it in a certain position. After a special signal is received from the control panel to the lock's thermistor, the bimetallic plate is deformed, which presses on the pin.

The pin enters the hole in the plate, blocking its movement. At the same time, the contacts are closed, which send a signal to close the hatch to the control module. The loading hatch door can only be opened after the current supply to the thermistor has stopped and the bimetallic plate has cooled. Therefore, you cannot open it immediately after finishing washing, but you must wait a while.

Troubleshooting

After disassembling the washing machine lock, you can usually visually easily determine the cause of the breakdown. If the cause of the breakdown is not clear, you need to check the following:

Thermistor resistance. When cooled, it is equal to 900 Ohms.
Voltage on the contacts after closing the door;
It is necessary to simulate the procedure of closing the door, applying voltage to the thermistor, and monitor the operation of the bimetallic plate;
Check whether the pin fits into the hole.

To diagnose the operation of the loading hatch lock, you must have a multimeter.

If you doubt your own abilities, contact our service center, our technicians will quickly fix the problem and your machine will be back in service.

This video will help you understand the process of repairing and replacing the lock: