Poitiers. French city of Poitiers (Poitou-Charentes region) Church in Poitiers 7th century
French city of Poitiers (Poitou-Charentes region)
The French city of Poitiers is the main settlement of the Vienne department, the historical center of the Poitou region. It lies on a calcareous plateau, which is washed from the east and north by the Clan River and from the west by the Boivre River.
If you drive from Tours along the Aquitaine highway, you won't be surprised by the clusters of towers and office buildings rising out of the plain, which is exactly what you'll see of Poitiers.
But get closer and the city seems completely different. Perched on a hilltop overlooking two rivers, Poitiers is a rural town that owes its unique charm to a long history full of significant events (for example, the residence of the Dukes of Aquitaine).
The winding streets and variety of architectural styles in which its secular and religious buildings and ancient mansions are made will tell you about the residence itself. Pedestrian areas, restaurants and cafe with tables on the boulevards (as well as several wonderful gardens in the center) will make exploring the city even more comfortable.
Arrival, city information and accommodation in Poitiers
The train station is located on the boulevard du Grand-Cerf, part of the ring road that runs around the foot of the hill on which Poitiers is built. There is no bus station in the city: intercity buses from the Rapides de Poitou company depart from the railway station.
The tourist office is located a 15-minute walk from the station (45 place Charles-de-Gaulle), where hikers can find guides to local trails: the GR-364 route starts here, leading to the Vendée coast via Parthenay.
You can rent a bicycle in Cyclamen (60 boulevard Pont-Achard), a car in the offices of companies at the train station, on the boulevard Grand Cerf, for example, in Citer (48 boulevard Grand-Cerf), and use the Internet in Cybercorner (18 rue Charles -Gide or rue Carnot).
Along the Boulevard Grand Cerf near the train station there are many hotels, but this is not a very healthy area: much more entertainment awaits you a little higher up the hill, on Boulevard Solferino (boulevard Solferino) - then you should turn right, up the steep steps that will lead to the city center at Place du Marechal (place du Marechal- Ledere).
Poitiers Hotels
1). Hotel Bistrot de la Gare– Somewhat noisy hotel, with reasonable prices, next to the train station. Hotel address: 131 Blvd du Grand Cerf;
2). Hotel du Chapon Fin– A solid old two-star hotel, extremely well located next to the magnificent town hall. The rooms are spacious, all with shower. Opening hours: closed from mid-December to mid-January. Hotel address: 11 rue Lebascles;
3). Hotel Continental– Comfortable two-star hotel opposite the station. All rooms are soundproofed, have a bath (or shower) and a TV. Hotel address: 2 boulevard Solferino;
4). Hotel de l'Europe– Hotel in the very center of the city with efficient staff. The front yard is located in the back, away from the street - and therefore it is very quiet. Covered parking available. Hotel address: 39 rue Carnot;
5). Jules Ferry Hotel– A welcoming family establishment located on a quiet street in a residential area, near the Church of Saint-Hilaire. Clean and nicely decorated. Hotel address: 27 rue Jules-Ferry;
6). Hotel Du Plat d'Etain– An attractive, well-organized hotel on a quiet main street, adjacent to the main shopping area. Opening hours: closed from mid-December to early January. Hotel address: 7 rue du Plat-d'etain;
7). Hotel Terminus– One of the good hotels in the vicinity of the station, with an excellent beer garden. Very clean, modern rooms with soundproofing. Hotel address: 3 boulevard Pont-Achard;
8). Victor Hugo Hotel– Cheap hotel in the city center above a nice bar – only five rooms, almost all very simple. Hotel address: 5 rue Victor-Hugo.
Hostel and camping Poitiers
1). Hostel HI– Large modern hostel, next to the swimming pool, often crowded with groups of schoolchildren. Take bus number 7 from the train station to the Bellejouanne stop. Convenient signs will lead you directly to the hostel: on the right, near the N-10 highway ( Angouleme). Hostel address 1 allee Roger-Tagault;
2). Municipal camping– A grassy clearing with clean facilities, located 2 kilometers north of the city (bus number 7). Opening hours: closed: October-May. Camping location: Rue de Porteau.
Sights of Poitiers
The poles of social life in Poitiers remain the shady Place du Marechal-Leclerc with popular cafes, always filled with cheerful young people, and Place Charles de Gaulle in the north, where a large and noisy food and clothing market is open. .
Between the two squares there is a network of wealthy streets - right up to the medieval half-timbered mansions on Rue de la Chaine; from the north they are limited by Gambetta street, passing by the ancient Palace of Justice(Palais de Justice), where the 19th-century facade hides much more ancient contents, including the magnificent 13th-century Gothic Main Hall.
The Palace of Justice overlooks one of the greatest and most unique churches in France - Notre-Dame la Grande(Notre-Dame la Grande) or the Great Church of Our Lady of Poitiers, begun in the 12th century during the reign of Eleanor and recently restored: oddly enough, it was not deep excrement and polluted air that caused the most problems, but salt from the stalls of fishmongers and salt sellers, which was absorbed into the ground, and from there fell on the facade of the church.
The strangest and most picturesque part of the temple is the western facade. It cannot be called beautiful, at least not in the usual sense of the word: the low and wide surface is covered with detailed carvings to such an extent that to the modern eye it seems tacky. But it's the details that make it so captivating: the subjects of the drawings vary - from the homely familiar to the disturbingly chaotic.
The keystone of the blind arch to the right of the entrance is decorated with an image of a seated woman, whose hair flutters in the wind, and in the frieze above her, Mary gently places her hand on the belly of the pregnant Elizabeth. You'll also see Baby Jesus gurgling in a bathtub, being admired by a pair of silly-looking sheep.
Even higher, there are portraits of the apostles, and at the very top, where you will certainly, without noticing it, look up - Christ in glory in the “almond” sculptural insert. Such facades, decorated with intricate stucco (as well as the pine-cone domes on the towers and bell tower), became a hallmark of the Romanesque style in Poitou. The interior of the church, crudely altered and decorated with frescoes in the 19th century, is much less interesting.
Saint-Pierre Cathedral and surroundings
On the eastern outskirts of the Old Town there is a cathedral Saint Pierre Cathedral(Cathedrale Saint-Pierre) is a huge building, on whose wide, light façade pigeons spend the night and ivy climbs. Some of the stained glass dates back to the 12th century - notably the Crucifixion (central window in the apse), where the features of Henry II and Eleanor are thought to be discernible.
The choir seats are also full of characteristic medieval details: a flirtatious Madonna and Child, a peasant killing a boar, an architect at work with a compass in his hands, a baker with a basket of bread. But the most striking decoration of the cathedral is the magnificent Clicquot organ (Orgue Clicquot) from the 18th century, on which various melodies are often played at incredible volume (concerts are held in the cathedral in the summer).
Opposite (literally in the very center of Rue Jean-Jaures) awaits you a low, wide, square building, reminiscent of a minor Roman temple. In fact, this is the Saint-Jean Baptistery (Baptistere St-Jean), built in the middle of the 4th century, according to general opinion: the oldest Christian building in France - until the 17th century, baptism in Poitiers according to all the rules could only be carried out here.
The “font” was an octagonal pool in the floor. The guide says that water pipes discovered at the bottom show that the water in the pool did not rise higher than 30-40 centimeters - which casts doubt on the widely held belief that early Christians were baptized by being completely immersed in water.
There are also some very old, faded frescoes on the walls, including an image of Emperor Constantine on horseback, and a collection of Merovingian sarcophagi. The influences of postmodernism are felt in the small domed building between the cathedral and the baptistery - Espace Mendes-France, where the ultra-modern planetarium is located.
Next to the baptistery is the city museum of Sainte-Croix (Musee Ste-Croix; rue Jean-Jaures), where an interesting collection of farm utensils is exhibited. There is also a good Gallo-Roman department with beautiful glassware, ceramics and sculpture - the white marble Minerva of the 1st century is especially interesting.
With the same ticket you can enter the Chievres Museum (Musee de Chievres; 9 rue V-Hugo), with a rather boring old collection of not particularly interesting paintings, ceramics, furniture and weapons, as well as an underground tomb. If you want to continue your exploration further, take a look at the 7th century underground Chapel of the Dunes (Hypogee des Dunes; 44 rue du Pere de la Croix).
Also worth a visit is the Pierre Levee dolmen, a prehistoric stone chamber located on the east bank of the river, behind the Pont-Neuf, where Rabelais came with his student friends to chat, shop and carve their names on the stones.
Instead, you can take a leisurely stroll along the riverside path (to the right of the Pont Neuf), upstream to the Pont St-Cyprien. On the opposite bank you will see the characteristic feature of any provincial town in France: neat, well-fertilized vegetable gardens (potagers) leading down to the water, with a small muddy pier at the end and a skiff moored to it.
Park Blossac and Saint-Hilaire
At the southern end of the Old Town, Parc de Blossac is a wonderful place to sit among the topiary linden trees and gravel paths, watch a game of boules and munch on a baguette. Next door is the 14th century Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand Church (St-Hilaire-le-Grand; rue du Doyenne): it’s hard to believe, but part of its nave was cut off in the 19th century, although the passages behind the choir are outside - still look great; The apse is surrounded by a particularly beautiful group of chapels.
Inside the church there is an ordinary covered gallery, intended for the many pilgrims who came here - probably one of them was responsible for the fire in 1100, which destroyed the original wooden roof and necessitated the improvised alteration to which Saint-Hilaire owes its architectural uniqueness: eight heavy domes, Having replaced the roof, some kind of support was needed - this is how a forest of additional columns arose, forming three aisles on both sides of the nave.
Where to eat and drink in Poitiers
If you want to go all out to save money, ask about student offers at the Center for Information for Youth (CIJ; 64 rue Gambetta). Students at the University of Poitiers enjoy a lively nightlife, especially in the bars on Rue Carnot and Place de la Liberte, and posters advertising performances by musicians and dancers are posted throughout the city.
Restaurants and cafes in Poitiers
1). Restaurant Alain Boutin– A good place for lovers of regional dishes, such as quails cooked in cognac liqueur (cailles au pineau), with a small, carefully selected menu; meal sets from 20 €. Opening hours: Closed on Saturdays and Mondays for lunch, and on Sundays and the first half of January. Restaurant address: 65 rue Carnot;
2). Restaurant Bleu Sel– They serve a good range of salads and sandwiches at reasonable prices – the place is popular with students. Opening hours: Closed on Sundays for lunch. Restaurant address: 40 rue Moulin a Sel;
3). Restaurant Les Bons Enfants– Good combination of price and quality: on weekdays a set of dishes for lunch costs 9 €; sets in the evenings – from 18 €. Opening hours: Closed: Sunday evenings and Mondays. Restaurant address: 11bis rue Cloche-Perse;
4). Restaurant Le Cappuccino– One of several Italian restaurants in the area; the cost of meal sets starts from 16 €. Opening hours: closed: Sundays and Mondays. Restaurant address: 5 rue de l’Universite;
5). Restaurant Le Poitevin– Regional dishes at affordable prices, in an exaggeratedly “rural” interior. Set of dishes from 22 €. Opening hours: closed on Sundays. Restaurant address: 76 rue Carnot;
6). Restaurant Le St-Hilaire– An extraordinary place for a pleasant lunch: a magnificent medieval cellar with stained glass windows and ancient columns - and the prices here are lower than the interior suggests. A set of dishes for lunch starts from 14.48 euros, for dinner – from 15.24 euros. Opening hours: closed on Sundays. Restaurant address: 65 rue Theophraste-Renaudot;
7). Restaurant Le St Nicholas– In fact, it is located on a small pedestrian street, next to Rue Carnot, which means you can easily eat at a table in the open air. Traditional dishes are served in a modern atmosphere. Set of dishes – 16 € and 20 €. Opening hours: Closed on Wednesdays and Sundays for lunch. Restaurant address: 7 rue Carnot;
8). Cafe Confort Moderne– The cafe just behind the Pont Neuf serves French and Moroccan dishes. It is connected to an exhibition center and a record store. Cafe address: 185 Faubourg du Pont-Neuf.
More photos of the sights of the French city of Poitiers here: Photo gallery
One of the ancient cities of France with a rich history is Poitiers. At one time, three most important battles for the history of France took place on its territory. The first was in 507, between the Visigoths and Ostrogoths, the second important date was 732 and the advent of Christianity, and the third battle took place during the Hundred Years' War.
Today it is the administrative center, and the place where such names as Eleanor of Aquitaine and Richard the Lionheart, familiar to us from childhood, become real personalities, but, despite the rich and centuries-old history of the city, modernity makes itself felt here too.
How to get to Poitiers?
Having prepared the necessary documents for entry into France, namely a Schengen visa, you can safely go on a trip. It will be easiest to get to Poitiers from Paris by first arriving there by plane, but further options are possible: rent a car, take a bus or train.
Of course, the easiest way would be to use the railway, to do this you need to get to Montparnasse station in Paris and then take the high-speed TGV train. The cost of the ticket will directly depend on the class you choose: first or second. In second class, the trip will cost between 45-55 euros, the travel time will be about one and a half hours.
Sights of Poitiers
The large Church of Our Lady is located in the heart of Poitiers on Place Charles de Gaulle
Immediately upon arrival at the railway station, you will have the opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the Cathedral and the Church of Our Lady, which you can admire. There are special routes for sightseeing in the city; there are lines of different colors on the sidewalk for those who like to explore everything on their own.
There are only three routes marked, and you can walk along each of them in about an hour, the starting point for each of them is Place de Gaulle.
Walking along the blue line, you can see the Radeguda Church, the Bishops' Quarter, numerous shops and artisan shops.
Church of St. Hilary, which belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage Site
Walking along the yellow line, you can admire the Church of St. John, and the route itself will pass through numerous shopping streets dating back to the Middle Ages. By choosing the red line, you will have the opportunity to explore the Church of St. Hilary, which is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and also has a park created in the 18th century.
If you are planning your trip to Poitiers for several days, then you have the opportunity to stay in hotels, choosing the appropriate room conditions, service and, of course, cost. In the heart of Poitiers, there is a hotel called De l’Europe, which has a cozy garden, and nearby is the Palais de Justice, one of the local attractions.
Cuisine of the region
The cuisine of the Poitiers region is based on only high-quality products, such as goat's milk cheeses, butter called Charente-Poitou and pumpkins grown in Haute-Poitou. The list of traditional local dishes includes Farsi Poitevin, which consists of cabbage with herbs and bacon, Poitevin pie stuffed with chicken, baby goat seasoned with garlic and pumpkin cooked in wine.
Among the dessert dishes, sweet cakes and local Poitou cookies are famous here. You can enjoy all of the above at Bistrot du Boucher, the French restaurant Le Dejeuner sur l\’Herbe, Le Piccolino and many other cozy places on French streets.
One of the types of entertainment for tourists and a joint excursion around the city will be a trip to the souvenir shops and shops. Most souvenirs can be bought on Grand rue; music lovers will enjoy visiting a store selling musical instruments located on Liberty Square.
St. Peter's Cathedral, as an example of "Angevin Gothic"
After wandering around the shops and providing yourself with souvenirs, you can go on excursions. Do not pay attention to the churches of the city, built in the Romanesque style, these include: the Cathedral of St. Peter, as an example of “Angevin Gothic”, the church of St. Hilary, St. Radegund.
The Saint-Croix Museum presents an exhibition of art objects from ancient times to the present day; a ticket costs 4 euros.
Once you wander through the cozy streets of French cities, you will forever love this country for its unique charm, and you will want to come back here again.
Ancient city of Poitiers - VIDEO
Poitiers is one of the oldest cities in France and a striking example of how the centuries-old and eventful history of Europe emerges through modernity.
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At the moment, the city of Poitiers in France is far from the noisiest provincial town. Which at the same time has its own unique appearance, which has been formed over its entire difficult history. And now, if you try to compare it with other capitals of the French regions, a significant difference will be noticeable - it has clearly planned wide boulevards, next to which there are strangely curving streets of ancient quarters, all around there are a lot of churches and palaces, gardens and pedestrian areas. In addition, the houses here are made of stone and wood, which significantly distinguishes this city in architectural terms from its counterparts in the northeast.
History of the city of Poitiers
Poitiers is one of the oldest French cities and serves as an example of how European history can be combined with high-tech modernity. The city was founded by the Celtic tribe of Pictons, who also gave the city its first name - Limonum. Although the town withstood many enemy attacks, it eventually fell under the all-consuming onslaught of the Roman legions. The Romans built and rebuilt this place very actively, making this village a major economic center. After Christianity came here in the fourth century, the role of this settlement began to grow, and after several centuries this city already became the center of religious life. The ever-growing number of churches and chapels began to cause genuine amazement among contemporaries, so Poitiers, like Rouen in its time, received the proud name “the city of a hundred bells.” Many different architectural monuments of the Romans have survived to this day. Poitiers is one of the most significant settlements in French history. He witnessed the greatest battles more than once. First, in 732, Charles Martell, who would later become the founder of the royal dynasty, expelled the Saracens from there. Another is when a serious battle broke out between the army of King John the Good of France and the soldiers of the eldest son of the King of England, Edward the Black. Due to the fact that the city constantly had to fight, its development slowed down, and continued only relatively recently - in the twentieth century.
In the city, you can go to Leclerc Square, which is lined with numerous cafeterias. Or you can go to Place de Gaulle. It is located in the north, and there is also a large and noisy market.
Sights of the city of Poitiers in France
Among other interesting city objects, one can highlight the Palace of Justice, which can be visited on weekdays and is absolutely free. Its facade, which was built back in the nineteenth century, hides very ancient interiors. Nearby is one of the largest and most impressive French churches - Notre-Dame-la-Grand. It was built from the twelfth to the sixteenth centuries, open daily, admission is free. Every evening it is illuminated by spotlights, in the light of which it looks especially beautiful. If you go to the eastern part of the old city, you can get to the large cathedral called Saint-Pierre, which is open daily. In addition to its very original decoration, this cathedral is widely known for its eighteenth-century organ, which hosts concerts in the summer.
Opposite this giant is a small building that resembles some kind of second-rate Roman temple - in fact, it is the Baptistery of Saint-Jean, which was built in the middle of the fourth century - it is the oldest Christian temple in France. Until the seventeenth century, this was the only place in the entire city where one could be baptized. Between the baptistery and the cathedral, you can see a small domed complex called Espace Mendes-France, which includes a children's museum of science and technology and a modern planetarium. On the same square Jean-Jaurès is the most famous museum of this place - Saint-Croix, which is famous for its ethnographic and historical collection.
You can also pay attention to the church of Sant Radegund, which has an underground chapel, in which, in fact, the remains of the saint of the same name are stored; it is worth looking at the museum of architecture and fine arts, as well as the botanical garden.
University of Poitiers and other treasures of the city
If you look into the southern part of the old town, you will find Blossack Park - a great place for a walk. Not far from it there is a real treasure - the Church of Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand, which was included in the UNESCO heritage list. Not far from this place is the University of Poitiers. This educational institution annually welcomes thousands of students from all over the world. Basically, preference is given to the fine and natural sciences.
There are no particular problems with getting to Poitiers. Although there are no direct flights by plane, you can always take a taxi or go by train. The most convenient way would be by rail - a ticket costs about 50 euros, and the trip lasts about an hour and a half. Trains leave regularly from Paris Montparnasse station. Poitiers is a great city for a person who wants to get acquainted with the atmosphere of France.
The main city of the region is Poitou-Charentes, the main city of the department of Vienne. It lies on a calcareous plateau, which is washed from the east and north by the Clain River and from the west by the Boivre River. The city is surrounded by ancient walls, with towers and 6 gates, and is adjacent to suburbs located in the valleys of both rivers. In the old part of the city the streets are narrow and crooked. Nice park de Blossac. Residents – 87012 (2004).
Poitiers has several churches in the Gothic style:
On the steep bank of the Klan, opposite the temple of St. Radegonde, a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the dunes rises above the city. Below it is the hypogee (hypogée) - an underground Christian tomb with a chapel. Below, on the bank of the river, a spring, refined in the past, flows out of the mountain, on which, however, it is written that the water is non-potable.
In other years, industry in Poitiers was quite developed: a stud farm, tanneries, tanneries and rawhide factories, the preparation of goose skins (about 40,000-50,000 pieces annually) for export to America, the production of excellent cheese (Montbernage) and beer, vegetable oil, vinegar, pottery, gloves, etc.
Poitiers is rich in monuments of building art - Celtic, Roman and medieval: the ruins of a Roman aqueduct have survived, and before the city one could still see the Roman arena. On the other side of the Clan there is the so-called “Pierre levée” - a dolmen, with which many ancient legends and superstitions are associated. -
Story
Three famous battles took place at Poitiers.
Battle of 507
In the city, Alaric II went on a campaign against Clovis in support of Theodoric the Great, king of the Ostrogoths, whose daughter, Tiudigota, was given to Alaric as a wife. In subsequent years, the Visigoths clashed with the Franks several more times, until peace was signed between the two peoples. In the city of Clovis, he violated the peace agreement and occupied part of the Visigothic territory. In the battle that followed - the Battle of Vouya (Campus Vogladensis) - the Visigoths suffered a crushing defeat. Alaric II fell on the battlefield, and the Visigoths forever lost most of their possessions in Aquitaine, transferred to them under the Treaty ofBattle of 732
Having conquered Spain, the Arabs invaded Gaul through the Pyrenees Passes, captured Aquitaine and occupied part of Neustria. The Christian world was in dire danger. At this critical time, the savior of the Franks and Christianity was Charles Martel, the Frankish majordomo. The Arabs went to Tours to take possession of the treasures in the church of St. Martina. Karl stood in the way of Abderrahman (October).Both opponents had equally strong troops. Karl did not attack first: he expected an attack for 6 days. On the seventh day, the light cavalry of the Arabs and Berbers broke up against the tightly knit mass of the Franks, heavily armed, fighting with great swords, unshakable as “blocks of ice.” Miracles were told about Karl; it retained the name “Martellus” - hammer. The Arabs were defeated. The question of who will win in Europe - Islamism or Christianity - was decided in favor of Christianity.
Battle of September 9, 1356
- constitutes an episode of the Hundred Years' War. The Black Prince, the hero of the Battle of Crecy, made a plan to march from Bordeaux through the French kingdom, joining the forces of the Duke of Lancaster on the Loire.In July he marched on Paris. French King John II the Good, having gathered an army of up to 50 thousand people, quickly appeared on the Loire. His army included four sons of the king, more than 20 dukes and up to 20 thousand heavy cavalry. The British did not know about the approach of the French, therefore, during the retreat of the English army, the French were in front of it and cut off its path.
The small number of the English army, which numbered no more than 10 thousand, shook Edward, and he invited the French to enter into peace negotiations, promising to return all their conquests and not fight for 7 years. The proposals were rejected: the French believed too much in victory. The French army occupied the plain, the English - the heights in the fields of Maupertuis, two leagues from Poitiers. The area where the English troops were located was cut off by bushes, vineyards, and hedges. Edward skillfully placed the shooters in the bushes, placing them before the road exited onto the plain. Hidden on the hill to the right was a detachment of horsemen. The battle began with an attack by French knights. By order of the king, they dismounted and fought on foot. Both columns of French horsemen were crushed, the narrow passage was cluttered with people and horses, English riflemen fired clouds of arrows from behind the fence, and the flying cavalry terrified the French army, which took to disorderly flight. John fought bravely, but was captured, along with his son Philip.
The entire flower of French chivalry perished. Among those killed were the Duke of Bourbon, the Constable of France, the Bishop of Chalons, 16 barons, 2426 knights; In total, 8 thousand were killed, and 5 thousand were killed during the flight. The captive king was solemnly brought to London (May 24). A truce was concluded with France for 2 years. A huge amount of booty was taken. France was plunged into deep sadness. The Dauphin Charles V the Wise becomes the king's viceroy.
The inhabitants of Poitiers and its environs - the Poitevins - are devout: on Sundays the churches are filled with believers. At the entrances to many settlements, the traveler is greeted by crosses. Note that in these, as well as in some other parts of France, for example in Vendee, the Crucifixion of our Lord and God Jesus Christ is performed in the Orthodox tradition.
This baptistery is considered the oldest Christian architectural monument in France; earlier ones were destroyed during the fight against the Arians.