Mountain rescue token. Russian Mountaineering Federation - event description
The gathering took place on the basis of the mountain educational and training center of the Ministry of Emergency Situations Russia "Tsey".
Total number of people who took part in the gathering: 51 athletes(9 teachers and 42 students).
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Due to the fact that the number of places in the educational and training center of the Ministry of Emergency Situations in Tsey is limited, many athletes of the CCM level and above, as well as representatives of the Tourist and Sports Union of Russia, were not included in the training camp. A priority gave himself up athletes from 1 r. in mountaineering, because According to the new requirements, to reach the first 6A, you must have the “Salvation in the Mountains” Token.
This year, as last year, TCB participants included: professional rescuers- employees of the High Mountain Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, who joined the second stage of training (from May 3). Thanks to this association of professional rescuers and climbers, a rich exchange of experience, knowledge and mountain rescue techniques took place during the classes.
In accordance with the plan, the collections took place in two stages:
At the first stage Participants studied under the initial training program for rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, gaining knowledge of the legal foundations and structure of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, medicine, tactical and special training, fire fighting, psychology and other disciplines. Based on the results of the first stage, students passed the certification in Vladikavkaz at the center of the Ministry of Emergency Situations.
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Participants in practical classes practiced carrying out RPS on rocky, snowy and ice terrain, as well as crossing mountain rivers.
Of particular note is the interesting cycle of lessons on RPS in avalanches under the leadership of S. Egorin, where search tactics and methods (probing, use of search devices) were developed. What made the classes relevant was the fact that they took place directly at avalanche refuges.
Much attention was paid to compiling tactical rescue plan on specific routes 5-6 k.s. throughout the Caucasus.
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Competitions became a serious test for the tokenists, according to the results of which the department that took first place was exempt from exams and awarded valuable prizes.
Innovation of the third collection became preliminary testing of participants for compliance with qualifications of 1 sports category, which included bottom rope climbing on a relatively simple route, climbing the railings with a load of 15 kg. And cross over rough terrain.
The result of this testing next year will be a more thorough selection of participants based on the results of the preliminary entrance exam at the site of the gathering. The exam will include both practical and theoretical parts. Participants who do not pass will not be included in the training camp.
Competitions consisted of the following stages:
1. Climbing with a bottom rope, followed by the team climbing up the railings.
2. Lifting the victim in an akye
3. Traverse along the railings of the victim in Akya
4. Descent of the victim to Akya
5. Orientation in a given direction
6. Search for an avalanche victim using special equipment
7. Knitting a soft stretcher and transporting the victim to the launch site (Ministry of Emergency Situations base)
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The next day, the tokenists demonstrated to the examination committee their knowledge of the theoretical foundations of the AKP in the mountains and defended the tactical plan.
At the end of the competitions and exams, the ceremony of awarding Tokens “Salvation in the Mountains”. In a solemn ceremony, “Salvation in the Mountains” tokens were presented to the participants - the executive director of the FAR - Ovchinnikov A. Yu., President of the Mountaineering Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania - Khamitsaev K. B., Head of SO PSO EMERCOM of Russia - Shchetinin S.V.
List of persons awarded by FAR with the “Salvation in the Mountains” token:
Coach
1. Kiselev Nikolay Petrovich, Volzhsky, 076
2. Popov Vasily Ivanovich, Georgievsk, 077
3. Kuznetsov Valery Nikolaevich, Samara, 078
4. Knyazevsky Sergey Vladimirovich, Saratov, 079
5. Kolesov Evgeny Yurievich, Stavropol, 080
Participants
1. Belousov Sergey Rudolfovich, Irkutsk, 081
2. Klepikov Alexander Alexandrovich, Irkutsk, 082
3. Kuzmenko Ivan Mikhailovich, Irkutsk, 083
4. Salovarov Artyom Viktorovich, Irkutsk, 084
5. Bolkovoy Evgeny Vladimirovich, Essentuki, 085
6. Romanov Denis Gavrilovich, Essentuki, 086
7. Butov Sergey Vasilievich, Pyatigorsk, 087
8. Vasiliev Andrey Sergeevich, Rostov-on-Don, 088
9. Osipov Ivan Dmitrievich, Rostov-on-Don, 089
10. Shipilov Vitaly Viktorovich, Rostov-on-Don, 090
11. Vlasenko Pavel Sergeevich, Krasnoyarsk, 091
12. Zhuravlev Nil Viktorovich, Samara, 092
13. Chernov Sergey Yurievich, Samara, 093
14. Uvarov Alexander Valerievich, Samara, 094
15. Ibragimova Elvira Maksutovna, N. Novgorod, 095
16. Marusov Pavel Andreevich, N. Novgorod, 096
17. Skosyrev Gennady Vladimirovich, V.Novgorod, 097
18. Ibragimov Ilnar Minnekhanovich, Kazan, 098
19. Khabibullin Ildar Khakimovich, Kazan, 099
20. Menshikov Vladimir Konstantinovich, Moscow, 100
21. Smirnov Yuri Valerievich, Moscow, 101
22. Khanov Grigory Sergeevich, Moscow, 102
23. Shadrin Artyom Evgenievich, Moscow, 103
24. Sushko Denis Sergeevich, Moscow, 104
25. Nefedov Sergey Vladimirovich, St. Petersburg, 105
26. Chugunov Dmitry Sergeevich, St. Petersburg, 106
27. Sevostyanov Denis Anatolyevich, St. Petersburg, 107
28. Nikolenko Alexey Nikolaevich, Kolomna, 108
29. Obysov Evgeny Pavlovich, Shchelkovo, 109
30. Bogdanov Maxim Viktorovich, Cherepovets, 110
31. Gainullin Timur Talgatovich, Tyumen, 111
32. Tretyakov Boris Vladimirovich, Tyumen, 112
33. Khakimullin Sergey Anasovich, Tyumen, 113
34. Troshchinenko Alexander Leonidovich, St. Petersburg, 114
35. Zhuravlev Igor Vsevoldovich, St. Petersburg, 115
36. Teplov Dmitry Konstantinovich, St. Petersburg, 116
37. Drugov Alexander Sergeevich, Khimki, 117
38. Pietkevich Mikhail Yanovich, Riga, 118
39. Karpenko Alexey Alexandrovich, Tyumen, 119
40. Gavenko Sergey Ivanovich, Ulan-Ude, 120
41. Volkov Vyacheslav Nikolaevich, Vladikavkaz, 121
42. Stadeev Nikolay Grigorievich, Vladikavkaz, 122
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The Russian Mountaineering Federation expresses gratitude to the teachers and trainers of the training center: senior trainer - Andrey Shvyrev responsible for safety - Sergei Egorin, and coaching staff of the training camp:
Nikolai Petrovich Kiselev, “Rescue Squad” badge No. 3577
Kuznetsov Valery Nikolaevich, “Rescue Squad” badge No. 5943
Popov Vasily Ivanovich, “Rescue Squad” badge No. 4077
Morozov Alexander Ivanovich, “Rescue Squad” badge No. 8438
Knyazevsky Sergey Vladimirovich, “Rescue Squad” badge No. 6480
Abrosimov Alexander Vyacheslavovich, “Salvation in the Mountains” badge No. 38
Kolesov Evgeniy Yuryevich, “Rescue Squad” badge No. 4957
Also, the Russian Mountaineering Federation and the Higher Mining School express gratitude Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, Russian Union of Rescuers and personally Sergei Shchetinin for great assistance in preparing and conducting training camps.
Training camp for the preparation of public rescue climbers.
From April 18 to May 10, 2019, the Russian Mountaineering Federation is holding an all-Russian specialized training camp for the training of mountaineer rescuers, the “Rescue in the Mountains” badge.
The training session will be held in the Caucasus at the Bezengi AUSB and will consist of two parts - modular and main.
Senior coach - Alentsev Ivan.
Requirements for candidates for TCB:
Age – not younger than 20 years.
Sports qualification corresponding to the 2nd sports category in mountaineering or CMS in mountain tourism, according to the requirements of the EVSK Ministry of Sports of Russia
Or mountain experience that meets the following requirements: at least 2 years of mountaineering or mountain tourism.
Climbing experience: for climbers - at least 12 ascents, of which at least five 3rd grade. for tourists – experience of participating in at least 6 mountain hikes, including two 4 class hikes.
Cost of participation
Cost of participation, full course from April 18 to May 10 (for FAR members) - 42,500 rubles
Participation cost - main program from April 26 to May 10 (for FAR members) - 28,700 rubles
The training is subsidized by FAR sponsors and does not apply to military units.
ATTENTION: The price does not include accommodation and meals at the Bezengi AUSB. There will be a special offer from the base for Token participants.
It is also possible to take the distance learning course “Initial Lifeguard Training” and receive a lifeguard certificate. In this case, at the beginning of April you will have access to an online course, which can be completed remotely from 3 to 7 days before the start of the Token fees. The cost of the online course is 4,500 rubles.
Recipient: All-Russian public organization - the Russian Mountaineering Federation (FAR) (please indicate the recipient of the payment legibly, in block letters: FAR)
All-Russian public organization – Russian Mountaineering Federation (FAR)
TIN 7704178314 KPP 770401001
PJSC ROSBANK Moscow
account 40703810997530000007
Case No. 30101810000000000256
BIC 044525256
OGRN 1037739561892
OKATO 45286590000
OKPO 40216322
OKVED 93.1
Applying for TCB
Register on the FAR website and be sure to fill out all the data in the electronic user form (contact information, mountaineering and additional qualifications, information about ascents - the electronic “Climber Book”). Applications for participation in TCB from those who have not completed the user’s electronic page on the FAR website are not accepted;
Sent to FAR. The application must be sent by email to: [email protected]. In the subject line of the letter, indicate “Application for participation in the Mountain Rescue training program from the full name of the cadet.”
A list of climbers who have submitted their applications for TCB will be published on the FAR website no later than February 10, 2019. An affirmative response to acceptance of the application will come no later than 5 days after submitting the application.
For information and clarifications, call 8 916 336 84 40 (Ivan Alentsev)
Collection of documents for the training certificate for certification for receiving the “Salvation in the Mountains” Token.2. Procedure for admission. Qualification requirements. Documentation.
3. Entry requirements.
Physical fitness standards
technical skills
Theoretical knowledge
4. Training program for the “Mountain Rescue” badge.
5. List of mandatory knowledge and skills that a cadet must master upon completion of training for the “Rescue in the Mountains” badge.
1. Introduction. Goals and objectives.
This program is intended for individuals undergoing training for certification to receive a Mountain Rescue Badge.
The purpose of this training program is for the cadet to master the techniques and tactics of carrying out rescue work in the mountains and to develop a culture of accident-free hiking and climbing in mountainous areas.
Upon completion of training, the cadet must have knowledge and skills sufficient to conduct and organize rescue operations in the mountains on simple and complex terrain in any weather and climatic conditions.
A cadet who successfully passes the final exams and is certified by the Ministry of Emergency Situations is awarded the title “Rescuer” and given a numbered badge and a “Mountain Rescue” certificate.
2. Procedure for admission to the training program.
To apply for enrollment in the Mountain Rescue badge training course, candidates must meet the following requirements:
Age - not younger than 20 years;
Have sports qualifications: at least 1 sports category in mountaineering or the title of “candidate master of sports” in mountain tourism;
Send the application form of a candidate for the Mountain Rescue Training Center to the FAR (see Appendix 1)
Upon arrival at the TCB, the candidate submits the following documents, prepared accordingly, to the TCB Credentials Committee:
Passport of a citizen of the Russian Federation (or other identification document);
Mountain climber's book;
Athlete's passport (classification card), certified by the regional (municipal) executive body in the field of physical culture and sports (the order number, date, full name and position of the person who certified the athlete's passport are required);
A mountaineer's registration card, certified by the regional mountaineering federation, mountaineering club, section or regional (municipal) executive body in the field of physical culture and sports (the order number, date, full name and position of the person who certified the athlete's passport are required);
Conclusion based on the results of a medical examination on fitness to work in extreme conditions (medical examination is carried out in accordance with the order of the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation No. 90 dated March 14, 1996, the wording of the entry is “fit to work as a rescuer”);
Participants in the training for the “Rescue in the Mountains” badge, who are certified rescuers, in addition to the above documents, provide the “Rescuer Book” and “Rescuer Certificate” to the credentials committee of the training center (recertification of rescuers is required every 3 years);
3 color photos 3x4;
Compulsory health insurance policy;
An accident insurance policy with a validity period of no less than the period of the training camp.
3. Entry requirements for candidates:
Candidates pass the following entry requirements:
Test exam on rock technique;
Physical fitness test.
4. Training program for the “Mountain Rescue” badge.
1 PART– passing entrance tests by candidates.
- test-exam on rock preparation;
Test exam on ice technique;
Physical fitness test.
PART 2– Entrance/exit (examination) test for the theoretical level of knowledge in rescue service and search and rescue work in the mountains:
Answers to questions on the theory and practice of mountaineering.
PART 3– practical skills in carrying out rescue operations in the mountains on different types of terrain and in different conditions:
Mastering skills for carrying out rescue work in the mountains, with passing tests.
PART 4– “Tactical plan for carrying out rescue operations on
route":
For 1st category climbers – on a route of at least 5 “A” category
difficulty, for climbers KMS - on a route not lower than 5 “B”
PART 5- competitions:
natural relief.
PART 6- final exams.
1 part. Tests of technical readiness of candidates for
training camp for rescue climbers.
The tests below represent an integrated test of the technical and physical readiness of climbers upon admission to training camps for rescue mountaineers. The tests are designed for 1st category climbers. The set of equipment and individual physical preparation of candidates before the exam must correspond to this level. The equipment used must be certified.
1. Test exam on rock training.
Climbing on rocky terrain with a bottom rope.
Characteristics of the route:
1) the length of the route is 15-20 meters;
2) difficulty of the route
Men: VI+ k/tr (6a k/tr according to French classification)
Women: VI k/tr (5c k/tr according to French classification)
3) number of belay points (guy wires) 10-12 (pcs)
2.
Ice technology
Climbing on ice terrain with a bottom rope.
Characteristics of the route:
1) the length of the route is 15-20 meters;
2) slope angle 60-70 degrees.
3) The organization of insurance points is carried out independently
(the distance between ice screws is at least 3 meters).
There are already installed belay checkpoints on the route (2-3 screwed-in ice screws with guy ropes), and clicking the safety rope at them is mandatory!
3. Working with a fixed rope (railing) on rocky or ice terrain.
Climbing along a fixed rope with a load.
Passing conditions and characteristics of the route:
1) the length of the route is 25 meters;
2) slope angle 70-90 degrees
3) cargo weight
Men – 15 kg;
Women - 10 kg.
4. Cross in the high mountain zone.
The participants’ task is to start, find the “victim,” and return to the finish line. The start-finish place, the place where the “victim” is located, the length of the cross-country route, and the average time to complete the cross-country route are determined. Participants' scores for the time result shown are determined at the location of the cross-country race based on the condition of the route, the steepness of the slope and other conditions.
5. Lifting and lowering the victim (load) 7-10 m. Weight 70-80 kg.
It takes place on a rock. It is necessary to lift the lower-lying victim using a pulley hoist to a height of up to 10 m. Organize the station yourself using ready-made anchors. The weight of the chock is 70 - 80 kg for men, for women - 40 - 50 kg.
After lifting, you need to convert the pulley into a descent system and lower the victim to the ground.
PART 2. Interview
PART 3. Practical skills in carrying out rescue operations in the mountains on different types of terrain and in different conditions.
The use of improvised means and climbing equipment when transporting a victim on simple mountainous terrain.
Transportation by 1 rescuer.
Transported by 2 rescuers.
Knitting a stretcher from improvised materials and climbing equipment.
Transportation of the victim by a transport squad.
Transporting the victim along steep and steep slopes.
Rescue work on rocky terrain.
Systems for fastening ropes for lowering, lifting and moving the victim.
Braking systems when the victim descends.
Rope extension.
Pulley systems.
Rescue work on difficult rocky terrain.
Rescuers rise to the victim.
Organizing the descent of the victim.
Organizing the lifting of the victim.
Organization of traversing sections of slopes and walls.
Organization of wall traversing.
Rescue and transportation work on snowy terrain.
Knitting stretchers from improvised materials and climbing equipment on snowy terrain.
Organization of descent stations on steep snow slopes.
Features of carrying out rescue operations in small groups.
Peculiarities of carrying out rescue operations when climbing in a pair.
Rescue and transportation work on glaciers and ice terrain.
Types of lifting a victim from a crack.
Ascent and descent of the victim on glaciers and ice terrain.
Setting up crossings over cracks on a glacier.
Organization of insurance and railings when transporting a victim across a glacier and ice terrain.
Features of carrying out rescue operations in small groups.
Peculiarities of carrying out rescue operations when climbing in a pair.
Technical support and safety equipment when working on an avalanche-prone slope.
The use of technical means during search and rescue operations (SRP) in avalanches.
Tactics and methods of conducting RPS in avalanches.
AKP by the group members.
AKP by rescue squad.
Features of carrying out rescue operations in small groups.
Peculiarities of carrying out rescue operations when climbing in a pair.
Each rescuer is tested using the “avalanche victim” method.
Safety rules for crossing and transporting a victim across mountain rivers.
Methods of crossing mountain rivers.
Features of carrying out rescue operations in small groups.
Peculiarities of carrying out rescue operations when approaching the route in a team of two.
Organizing a helicopter landing site, observing all safety measures.
The helicopter hovering at low altitude and the rescuers jumping off.
Helicopter hovering and rescuer lowering on a cable or rope.
Lifting a stretcher with a victim and accompanying person using a winch.
Conducting RPS at night.
PART 4. "Tactical plan for carrying out rescue operations on
route."
Development and execution of an abstract of a tactical plan;
For 1st category climbers – on a route of at least 5 “A” difficulty category, for KMS climbers – on a route of at least 5 “B” difficulty category;
Defense of an essay at final exams.
PART 5. Competitions:
Mountain rescue competitions using different forms
natural relief.
Competitions between academic departments are held on natural terrain. The competition venue is the UTS district for the “Salvation in the Mountains” token. The competition route must include:
Start-finish place;
The team's forced march to the rocks;
Climbing the team along the rocky terrain with the “victim”;
Team traverse over rocky terrain with the “victim”;
Descent of the “victim” with an accompanying person with increasing ropes and the team’s descent along the rocky terrain;
Team march to the avalanche site;
RPS in an avalanche using technical means;
Orientation by map and GPS.
Transportation of the “victim” to the place of crossing the mountain river;
Crossing the “victim” and the squad across the river;
Transporting the “victim” to the finish line, the finish line of the department.
Note.
The “victim” is determined by drawing lots from among the cadets of the training department-team before the start and on the avalanche, after working on the avalanche with technical means.
This is the basis for the competition, but the route and competition conditions may be changed due to objective circumstances. All TC cadets are required to participate in competitions in training departments-teams for the “Salvation in the Mountains” badge.
Similar competitions can be held among rescuers.
PART 6. Final exams.
The basis for the questions on the final exam tickets are theoretical and practical preparation, competitions, and defense of the essay “Tactical plan for carrying out rescue operations along the route.”
5. List of mandatory knowledge and skills that a cadet must master upon completion of training for the “Rescue in the Mountains” badge.
Upon completion of the course, the candidate must have the following: list of mandatory knowledge and skills.
Knowledge of federal laws: No. 151 Federal Law “ON EMERGENCY RESCUE SERVICES AND THE STATUS OF RESCUES” and N 68-FZ “ON THE PROTECTION OF THE POPULATION AND TERRITORIES FROM NATURAL AND MAN-MADE EMERGENCIES”
Knowledge of the structure and principles of organizing the emergency rescue service in Russia and the ability to organize interaction between the structures of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and public rescue teams and rescuers.
Basic knowledge of carrying out rescue operations in non-mountainous areas (firefighting, man-made disasters, etc.).
Knowledge on the topic “Dangers in the mountains.”
Knowledge on the topic “Accidents and their causes when playing sports in mountainous areas.”
Knowledge and skills to provide first aid to the victim, including psychological first aid.
Stop bleeding (pressure, tourniquet)
Basic complex cardiopulmonary resuscitation
Bandages (for injury, wound)
Immobilization
Anti-shock measures
First aid kit
Personal first aid kit (also used when climbing in pairs)
First aid kit for a climbing group/department (for a group of 4-6 people)
First aid kit for conducting training/team (for 25-30 people).
First aid kit when climbing in remote areas of the world
Knowledge and skills in transporting a victim using improvised means over simple mountainous terrain (grassy slopes, scree, snow).
Carrying a casualty alone
Carrying for a short distance on the shoulders
Carrying on your back
Carrying on a rope
Carrying in a backpack
Carrying the victim together
Castle from hands
Rope loop seat.
Rope seat made from trekking poles (lengthwise and crosswise)
Seats made from backpacks and trekking poles (lengthwise and crosswise)
Making stretchers from available materials - telescopic poles, skis, ice axes, sticks and other items.
Cocoon stretcher (rope and mats)
Stretcher made from ice axes, trekking poles and rope
Stretcher made from ice axes, trekking poles and jackets (clothing)
Stretcher made of poles, sticks and rope
Transporting the victim using standard Akya rescue stretchers.
Assembly of Akiya UT2000
Assembling an aluminum shotgun
Transporting the victim up the slope, down the slopes, traverse
Organization of insurance when transporting a victim to Akye
Interaction between rescuers and organization of insurance during transportation of the victim.
Organizing belay on a grassy slope
Organization of insurance on screes
Organization of snow insurance
Organizing insurance on ice
Token "Rescue in the Mountains"(exists since the early 60s) after the collapse of the Union, they were resumed and began to be carried out only in May 2007. And, in fact, it was a different event in a different country (new equipment, techniques, people). But, we must pay tribute, everything that they could have been preserved, taken and transferred to new soil. So the tradition remains. Now there is a new global upgrade taking place not only of this course, but also of the training system for climbers in our country as a whole. Traditions are still being tried to be preserved, but Modernization and the transition to modern technologies are still at the forefront. So, it was extremely interesting not only to learn (and there was a lot to learn!), but also to observe the transformations taking place...
Photo report is below.
In 2007, everyone rushed to the first set like stung, then only revived Token. And, to be honest, I was going to. The composition was very distinguished, including the current executive director of the FAR Alexey Ovchinnikov, the leading methodologist of the FAR Seryoga Vedenin, the current chief of the Token - Andrei Glebovich Shvyrev, the legendary Porokhnya, the “star” Ira Morozova, the prominent tourist Nikonorov, and simply good climbers and tourists Sanya Yurkin, Vanya Artemova, etc.
And I was invited to participate, but now I understand, it’s good that I didn’t go..
The fact is that at that time the course was very raw (which is not surprising). Now, after 6 years, he has acquired flesh and blood and become whole. Largely thanks to the current strong team of teachers/trainers. So, from the point of view of the participants, yes, that first one, in 2007, was a “star” and extremely interesting course, but not from the point of view of learning, but from the point of view of communication. Today the situation is the opposite. The course is crystallized and faceted. You can and should go.
In general, this is a standard story, with any courses and master classes, especially highly specialized ones. In the beginning - cheap, interesting, fun (a lot is based on enthusiasm and communication), when everything settles down - elite, expensive, but extremely productive. Of course IMHO.
Starting this year, for the first time, the Token takes place in Bezengi (before that - at the Emergencies Center in Tsey). And this is the right choice for a thousand reasons.
Alpine camp "Bezengi"(Kabardino-Balkaria, Bezengi gorge). Even among the alpine bases of the USSR, it was one of the best, where everyone tried to get there*, and among the current ones, it’s definitely the best! And the question is not even a matter of geographical location, and the presence of rocks, mountains, ice, etc., although not without this. And the fact is that her director is wonderful. Ali Huseich - He is an excellent business executive and truly cares that climbers have a good time on his land. The base is constantly developing, new buildings are being built, old ones are being repaired, equipment is being purchased, including for rental. The website has just been launched - bezengi.ru
*beginners are not allowed to come here, strictly from 2nd category
They say that in Soviet times, Zheton was a month. I readily believe it (back then they loved the effect of scale). But how many hours a day were there of classes and practice? As usual, 8-9 in total. But in the current situation, everything is not so, it’s 2 and a penny weeks, but in such a way that when you breathe in, you forget to exhale, just like you got up at 7 in the morning, you have classes until 23:00, with short breaks to eat. Therefore, by and large, it turns out to be the same month.
In the photo: a sports ground, which is perfectly suitable for practicing many blocks of rope techniques. Close, safe, convenient and, accordingly, high efficiency.
The standard schedule included 5 hours of practice on the rocks(before lunch)+ 5 o'clock, after that. Then dinner and the theory began - 2-3 presentations / lectures, which, however, were often also replaced by practice, damn it...
When at 23:00 in the canteen you apply a tourniquet to a mock victim for the 10th time or make splints for him using improvised means, it gets boring. In a good way. You sleep and see these same tires.
Therefore, when you come “home” you no longer pay attention to the very conditional comfort of your home, you just want to drink tea and sleep. And often I don’t even want tea)).
Maybe beer, but it’s a no-no, otherwise there will be fines and punishments from the authorities (the event is generally quite strict). And is your health enough for beer? Question. Therefore, we dreamed about it more than used it. And thank God.
It is necessary to note the general fan and positive attitude, including among our teachers. If not for this, it would be difficult.
On the picture: Denis Kiselev(teacher at Zheton, UIAA instructor, CMS). It will be remembered by all participants of the training camp, I’m sure. And not only in night rescue operations, where he superbly played an inadequate victim ( "Oh, I'm scared, will you save me?"), but also with his professionalism, combined with a good sense of humor.
And there was a lot of new things, believe me... It was like when I entered university "forget everything you were taught". The current technology of mountain rescue is based entirely on the fact that everything happens without any clamps, - only “Prusiks” (Canadian and tandem) are used in all possible combinations, blocked whenever possible by Munter Mull. Well, because there are “mirror” systems everywhere, duplicating each other. And it doesn’t matter what type of rescue: in a team, in a large team, or on large-scale work.
Initial message - “You have blocks, and you must put them into the optimal design for your unique situation.”. Like “of course there are templates, BUT in reality there are none, improvise using the blocks that you know”.
In the photo: Sanya Zhigalov (Krasnoyarsk, Foreva!) thoughtfully crumples her pussy in her pocket cordalette...and it’s not the first day that it’s been crumpled. And Seryoga Vedenin (chief methodologist) blows his mind with another piece of information. He did this regularly.
Our strength was leaving us, but we held on...
Vedenin was tireless, if not unstoppable
Simple techniques, even if they were modified, were easy, of course. Still, the average level of cadets is very, very high (mountaineering instructors, CCMs, many are training instructors in special forces). There were many active rescuers, including guys from the Elbrus region. Even the head of the Elbrus rescue team himself, our handsome Maga (in the photo - in a yellow helmet).
But with complex techniques, in the form transporting the victim to Akya over difficult terrain(traverses, slanting railings, etc.), things weren’t going well at first. Still, the amount of information was overwhelming. In addition, by this time teachers had switched almost entirely to "problem-based" teaching method, so we had to figure out many things ourselves...and they are not obvious, as you understand.
It’s one thing when you have rope equipment, jumars, blocks, etc., but it’s a completely different thing when you only have carabiners and a pair of rope cords 5 meters long. And you need to make a complex pulley system to lift a load of 250 kg, then move it along the railing and then lower it along the slant. Pull everything off at the end and meet the control time. Hmm...
It's the same on ice.
Therefore, it is not surprising that even those many hours that we studied were sorely lacking for us.
Besides, they drove us like...
Practicing the extraction of a victim from a glacial crevasse Against this background, it is remembered as a pleasant entertainment event. It was painfully easy and relaxed, relative to everything else associated with “pulling out the victim.” Here he is at least alone, without an accompanying person.
At the same time, every single day, all the teachers assessed each of us on many points. Both within individual blocks (AKP in a team, AKP in a team, AKP in a team) and outside of them.
There was simply no time to contemplate the beauty around...
The fact that not a single day of rest was provided is, of course, an omission. The places are incredibly beautiful. I just wanted to go somewhere, just take a walk. Or just lie down and relax.
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In addition to the actual rescue techniques, there were many accompanying lectures and classes on topics: first aid, orientation, rescue tactics, avalanche safety, rescue psychology, the history of the Token and much more. Not a single passage, all very capacious and useful.
I’m also picky about the teaching staff, I always make high demands, but even here I give the team an ironclad 5. Perhaps it would be worthwhile to equip the classroom better, but this is a question for Ali Khuseevich, since this is his domain.
First Aid Course I read it within 2 days Sasha Dergachev, head of the Moscow regional branch of the Russian Union of Rescuers - ruor.org. This is one of the best teachers I have ever met. Both as a practitioner (rescuer, doctor) and as a methodologist he is excellent, not to mention his all-consuming charisma. Now I will send all those who suffer to First Aid courses only to him.
Avalanche block It was quite short, about 5 hours at most. Alas. This is very consistent with the fact that the level of avalanche training among climbers in our country is catastrophically low, below the baseboard. Until such flagship events as Zheton and TsShI (Central School of Instructors) begin to conduct at least a basic 3-day course, the situation will not fundamentally change. And climbers/mountain tourists will be one of the most important groups of citizens killed in avalanches.
Well, working with probes (quick/thorough probing), God forgive me... this is the work of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, not ours. This has nothing to do with the self-salvation of the group. This is a method of searching for corpses all over the world, not living ones.
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Seryoga Vedenin himself understands this perfectly well, but he cannot jump higher than the approved program. It's a pity. Conclusion - it is necessary to expand the program, at least in the avalanche part.
Where would we be without this?))
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We had a lot of fun here. Still, carrying a victim using (and not using) improvised means is “fun and pleasant.” Not a circus, but it looks like it. Healthy guys, but they do this...
But, if there is one, it is much more convenient and safer.
Not like using ice axes (yes, they not only cut ice and cook porridge with them).
Oh...the cadets were given a living woman. The guys immediately lost their minds and began to behave inappropriately. They completely forgot how to pack and move the victim. For some reason, on the contrary, they wanted to “unpack” it and not drag it anywhere, like “why?”
But jokes aside, exam time came very quickly.
And here we were no longer allowed to go down, what kind of women were there...
Well, for a moment's notice long hours of night search and rescue work(AKP), with many victims, some of whom are here, some there, some were simply lost, some crashed on the wall... in general, “to the fullest”, so that life does not seem like honey.
After that final practical exam We were finally given a day to rest and dry out. Well, get ready. This is also a final test, but based on theory. 140 questions and each of which must be answered in writing, often making explanatory drawings and diagrams (not a test, not even once). A kind of intellectual marathon...
One of the teachers threw up the idea that this is a different opportunity "understand what you really know and what you don't". This thought stuck in me and I decided not to prepare at all, not to learn all these laws of pulley hoists, rules of mountain climbing, rights and responsibilities of OB, etc. For the purpose of making a certain snapshot of what is really in me at the moment, and not what I will stuff into the RAM and give out in the exam (I had no doubt that I can do this well).
I was very pleased with the result - the best on the course. And not only on the theoretical exam, but also on the total score (93.1 out of 100). That's how it happens. You don’t prepare, you don’t work, but you become 1st. As Somerset Maugham said: “If you refuse to accept anything other than the best in life, you often get the best.”
Having finally passed all the exams, we had a free day, on which we happily went to the Mises-Kosh site, to the memorial stone and the grave of the climbers.
And at the same time admire the Bezengi wall. At least from afar... Otherwise, spending so much time in Bezengi and not seeing her is a sin. The last time I was in the area was in 1999, I missed the place.
At the end - the traditional award ceremony, celebration and departure.
Came specially to be awarded with tokens Executive Director of the Russian Mountaineering Federation(FAR), - Alexey Ovchinnikov. It was nice. But not even this, but the fact that he devoted special time to us, the tokenists, and arranged something like a personal meeting with the cadets, without teachers, just him and us. You could ask any questions, and he answered without hesitation. At the end of the meeting, he simply spoke about “party politics”, new trends, and where we are heading as our Russian mountaineering community. Very open, constructive and understandable. There would be more such climbers and, especially, officials)).
P.S. I hope I have explained the topic at least a little, although the attentive reader will see that a lot was left out of the equation.
P.P.S. Everyone course teachers(Andrey Fedorovich Selivanov, Valery Nikolaevich Kuznetsov, Andriyan Spichka, Denis Kiselev, Alexander Dergachev, Anastasia Tyrsikova, Akkaev Aznaur, Sergey Vedenin) - Thank you very much for the science! And communication, of course
Announcement of the start of accepting applications
The Russian Mountaineering Federation announces a recruitment of cadets for the VII All-Russian specialized training camp for the training of public rescue mountaineers for the "Rescue in the Mountains" badge.
Venue and dates
Republic of North Ossetia - Alania, Tseyskoe gorge, mountain training center "Tsey" of the North Ossetian search and rescue team of the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations.
Collection plan
April 22 - arrival and placement of candidates at the State Training Center "Tsey".
April 23-24 - passing entrance exams and control standards. For fulfilling each standard, points are awarded, the sum of which determines the place on the list of candidates.
Based on the results of passing the entrance exams, cadets who take 1st to 30th place are enrolled in the training center.
April 25 - start of training courses.
May 11-12 - exams
May 13 - end of gathering, departure of participants.
Requirements for candidates
1. Age - not younger than 20 years.
2. Sports qualification corresponding to the 1st sports category in mountaineering (according to the requirements of the EVSK Ministry of Sports and Tourism of the Russian Federation).
3. Providing the following documents:
- medical certificate No. 086у (see example in the appendix)
- Climber's book
- classification ticket (athlete’s passport), certified by the regional (municipal) executive body in the field of physical culture and sports (required order number, date, full name and position of the person who certified the document)
- passport
- participants from among certified rescuers, in addition, provide the “Rescuer Book” and “Rescuer Certificate” to the credentials committee of the UTS (recertification of rescuers is required every 3 years)
- compulsory health insurance policy
- a letter of request for referral to the training center, certified by the head of the regional mountaineering federation (club, section)
- three color photos 3x4
4. Personal equipment
Participants in the technical training must have personal equipment in the amount necessary and sufficient to carry out search and rescue operations on all forms of mountainous terrain, as well as for going out into the high mountain zone (sleeping bags, rugs, gas burners, dishes).
It is also recommended to have avalanche probes, shovels and beepers (avalanche transceivers), a laptop and a GPS device.
Applying for TCB
The form must be sent by email to two addresses - to the FAR - [email protected] and to the senior coach of UTS Shvyrev Andrey Glebovich - [email protected].
Be sure to fill out all the points in the form.
Attention to climbers who are not citizens of the Russian Federation. After submitting the application, you will additionally need to send a copy of your passport to obtain permission to stay in a special border area.
Note:
When enrolling in UTS, candidates have an additional advantage:
- employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, military personnel, employees of rescue services and special forces, employees of additional education institutions;
- members of the Russian Mountaineering Federation who have paid the membership fee (individual and collective)
Tuition fees, fees, discounts, educational grant "Red Fox Scholarship"
The total cost of training is 30,000 rubles.
For members of the Russian Mountaineering Federation - 20,000 rubles.
Holders of the Russian Mining Club card are given a 10% discount.