Repairing the power supply receiver there is no voltage at the output. Familiarization information before self-diagnosis - special symbols
In this article, we will fix the most common failure in a satellite receiver. namely, we will repair the power supply of this device. Why the power supply? Yes, because in 95% of cases of receiver failure, the culprit is the power supply. The receiver may not turn on at all, it may turn on “halfway” (for example: the red indicator is on, and the green indicator, despite our efforts when pressing a certain button, does not turn on and there are many other signs), or some function may not work. And the cause of all these misunderstandings, in most cases, may be the power supply. We will repair the SVEC receiver. But functionally, on most of these devices, the power supplies differ only in the shape and location of the radio elements. The principle of repairing receivers is almost always the same.
So, let's begin. To begin with, of course, we need to disassemble our “unit”. Unscrew the screws or bolts on the sides of the cover and remove it. The following picture appears before us:
Now let’s visually inspect the block and board for visible reasons breakdowns (this could be “blowing” of capacitors, burning out of the board or individual elements and so on.). If no obvious reasons are found, then look at the fuse. Even if it is not visually visible that the fuse has “burnt out,” it is still better to check its integrity with a device. If the fuse is not working, do not rush to change it and try to turn on the receiver. Usually they don’t just “burn out”; on the contrary, for the most part, when there is an overvoltage in the network, they remain unharmed, and something else inevitably fails. This is how modern technology works. In general, we need to remove the power supply (in the picture it is marked with a blue arrow) from the receiver. to check other items.
First of all, you need to check the power capacitor: there may be a residual charge in it. If there is a charge in the capacitor, it is necessary to discharge it, otherwise when checking other radio elements, we can not only “burn” the device, but also receive a good electric shock, although not fatal, but still unpleasant.
After this, we proceed to check the main transistor, which is located on the radiator. If we discard all professional terms, then we simply “call” him for a “short circuit”. These transistors constantly fail and are designated as follows: D13009K. Letter values can be different, but numeric values must match. This transistor is found in many receivers. but not in all. Others contain similar or may contain microcircuits. This is not the point, the important thing is that in most cases, it is precisely power transistors or microcircuits.
On our power supply. After checking this transistor, a short circuit was discovered between its contacts. It follows from this that the transistor is “burnt out”.
Now we need to unsolder it and check the remaining radio elements. I’ll explain the test in a simple way: you need to check all transistors and diodes (zener diodes) for a “short circuit”.
All parts marked with arrows in the picture must be checked for “short circuit”. After such a check, I discovered a “burnt out” diode, which is powered by 5V. We also need to unsolder it in order, like the transistor, to replace it with a suitable one.
Next, we solder the new transistor and diode into place. After this, you can check our power supply. We do it this way: insert it into the receiver and connect to it only the power cord and the power button. We DO NOT connect the cable with wires that goes to the board with processors. We will check the output voltages, the value of which is indicated on the power supply. near the “socket” where the cable is inserted.
We measure the voltage at the output of the power supply and, if they match the values on the board, you can connect the cable.
All. Now we fasten all the bolts that secure the power supply to the receiver and close our device with the lid. Ready.
That's basically it. Our receiver works like new again.
Of course, the most common and uncomplicated type of breakdown is described here. There may be more serious reasons for the failure of this device. Then, you cannot do without the intervention of a specialist, but without doing anything, it is impossible to learn anything.
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repair article DRE 5000. |
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article on the design and repair of power supplies some receivers. Inside the article there are diagrams: “HUMAX F1/CI/VA/VACI”, “Strong SRT4450”, “Sky Way 6000”, “DRE-4000” (as well as characteristic defects of the “DRE-4000” power supply and how to eliminate them ) |
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article on restoring and updating receiver software using RS-232 (COM) and JTAG, using DRE_4000,5000 as an example. |
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DRE-5000, DRE-7300, DRS-5001, DRS-5003 treatment using jtag. |
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DRE-5000 power supply diagram and possible malfunctions. |
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Repair satellite receivers with a defect - “no signal”, flooded with rainwater via a cheap Chinese cable. |
Most of the defects that occur during operation of STV tuners are associated with the failure of their power supplies. Power supplies of this type They fail mainly due to power surges, low-quality components and are very afraid of static voltage. I will give an extract from the article by V.K. Fedorov. “Repair of satellite receivers” in the supplement to the magazine “Repair & Service” 2010. – unfortunately, during the development of power supplies for receivers of these brands (DRE), a number of mistakes were made that led to their failure. For example, capacitors C 9, C12, C15, C19 and C20 have an operating temperature of +85 C, and a very low quality diode is used as D9. As a long-time user of Tricolor TV and its receivers DRE-4000, DRE-5000, DRE-5001, I often I go to the Telesputnik forums. Several times the advice from the “Power Supply Repair” section helped me repair receivers for myself and my neighbors, so I decided to summarize the faults mentioned in this section. Before repairing the receiver, make sure that the satellite antenna is configured correctly, the receiving converter, cable and antenna switch are working correctly, or check the operation of the receiver for known working system.
Warning
1. If the receiver stops loading or is loading longer than the previously set time, immediately look for the reason - you can kill the crypt module.
2. Pull out the crypt module before starting the repair, it will work and put it in place.
1.press (Menu) on the remote control, select “Settings”, press (OK) and enter the PIN code (default 0000).
2.Select “Factory Settings” from the menu and press (OK). A warning message will appear on the TV screen about complete removal all settings made by the user.
3. Press the red button at the bottom of the remote control. A request will appear on the TV screen to delete all user data.
4. To select “Yes”, press the (Left) button, then press “OK”. The receiver deletes data for about 15 seconds, during this time it is strictly forbidden to turn off the power of the receiver and perform any actions with the receiver - this can lead to incomplete or incorrect recording of data in the flash memory of the receiver and its breakdown.
If the set PIN code is unknown, you can reset it to 0000.
To do this, press (Menu) and select “Status”. A window with the receiver data will open, then successively press the following buttons on the remote control:
white , (9 ), yellow, (4 ), red, (8 ), (7 ), (3 ), (5 ), green.
A window will appear with the question: “Change PIN. Are you sure?. Select “Yes” by pressing the “Left” button.”Confirm resetting the PIN code to 0000? by clicking the “OK” button.
Receiver power supply capacitors
| 0.1uF 275v |
470uF 16v |
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| 0.1uF 275v |
2200uF 500v |
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| 47uF 400v |
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| 0.01uF 500v |
100uF 25v |
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| 100uF 1000v |
1000uF 25v |
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| CL-112A333J0.033uF100v | 1000uF 10v |
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| 47uF 50v |
1000uF 10v |
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| CL-112A333J0.033uF100v | 470uF 16v |
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| 10uF 50v |
10uF 50v |
||
| 1uF 50v |
0.1uF | ||
| 470uF 35v |
2200uF 2kv |
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Receiver power supply resistors
|
1mohm +\-5% |
10com +\-5% |
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100com +\-5% |
10com +\-5% |
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27com +\-5% |
10com +\-5% |
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| 10ohm +\-5% |
10com +\-5% |
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1com +\-5% |
6.8com +\-5% |
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2com +\-5% |
1com +\-5% |
||
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2.2com +\-5% |
1com +\-5% |
||
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10ohm +\-5% |
5.6com +\-5% |
||
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4.7com +\-5% |
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100ohm +\-5% |
I will give the markings of the remaining components of the power supply of the DRE-5000,5001 receivers.
The markings may not coincide with the data shown on the diagrams; copied from real power supplies.
Power supply failure No. 1
Signs:
The receiver does not turn on, there are no messages on the front panel indicator, no picture or sound.
Possible reason:
The power cord is broken, the power supply protection system has tripped.
Actions:
Check the presence of 220 V supply voltage at the input of the power supply; if not, replace the cord or switch;
Check the presence of 220 V supply voltage on capacitor C 1, if there is no voltage, replace it faulty elements protection: RV1, RV2 and fuse;
Check the presence of 220V supply voltage at the output of inductor LF1, if not, replace inductor LF1;
If the mains fuse blows, check that there is no breakdown of the protection elements: RV1, C 1, C2. Check rectifier diodes. Then make sure there is no leak or short circuit in the high-voltage capacitor C 3 and in the U1 microcircuit;
If the mains fuse is intact, then check the presence of all voltages at the outputs of the power supply 3.3; 5; 12; 22 and 30 centuries. Then disconnect the power supply connector from the main board of the receiver and measure the voltage again. If the power supply works successfully, then check the serviceability of the components of the main board of the receiver;
If one or more voltages are missing, check the corresponding circuits of the power supply;
If there is no voltage at the output of the power supply, check the presence of a rectified voltage of 300V at the terminals of the electrolytic capacitor C 3, make sure that there is no break in the resistor R2 in the power supply circuit of the U1 microcircuit;
Make sure that diode D5 is intact and resistor R4 is not broken;
Check the serviceability of optocoupler U2, controlled zener diode U3 and zener diode VDx (may be missing in some power supply models);
Make sure the integrity of diodes D5-D10 in the low-voltage part of the power supply;
Make sure there are no leaks, breaks or short circuits in electrolytic capacitors C9, C11, C12, C15-C20 (it is advisable to replace capacitors C16, C17 and C11 immediately, regardless of their appearance); - check the integrity of chokes L1-L4.
Power supply failure No. 2
Signs:
The receiver does not turn on, there are no messages on the indicator;
The receiver turns on, but turns off after a few seconds. The indicators flash and “8888” is displayed.
Possible reasons:
power supply protection has tripped.
Actions:
check the serviceability of diodes D5-D10 in the low-voltage part of the power supply;
Make sure there are no leaks, breaks or short circuits in electrolytic capacitors C 9, C 11, C 12, C15-C20 (it is advisable to replace capacitors C16, C17 and C11 immediately, regardless of their appearance);
Check the serviceability of optocoupler U2, zener diode U3 and zener diode VDx (may be missing in some power supply models);
Make sure that diode D11 is in good condition and that there is no breakdown or leakage in capacitors C4 and C5.
Make sure there is no short circuit in the windings of transformer T1;
Replace chip U1.
Power supply failure No. 3
Signs:
The receiver turns on, but after 20-40 minutes it turns off or the indicators on the front panel of the receiver begin to blink.
Possible reasons :
the power supply protection system is triggered.
Actions:
Make sure that diode D11 is in good condition and that there is no breakdown or leakage in capacitors C4 and C5;
Replace faulty electrolytic capacitors and/or diodes in the low-voltage part of the power supply, usually in the 3.3V and 5V circuits.
Replace U1 chip .
Power supply failure No. 4
Signs:
Uncertain signal reception; - the picture on the screen crumbles into cubes, especially when viewing encrypted channels;
The readings on the “Quality” and “Power” scales change chaotically.
Possible reasons:
Loss of capacity or break of the high-voltage electrolytic capacitor in the high-voltage part of the receiver's power supply;
Loss of capacitance or break of the electrolytic capacitor in the tuner power circuits (pin 5).
Actions:
Replace the faulty high-voltage capacitor in the high-voltage part of the power supply;
Replace or install, if missing, the capacitor on the 5th leg of the tuner.
Power supply failure No. 5
Signs:
Smoke comes from the receiver, sometimes sparks are visible between the parts on the board;
The indicators on the front panel of the receiver are flashing.
Possible reasons:
Triggering of the power supply protection system due to breakdown of capacitors C4 and C5;
Breakdown of the paste between capacitors C4 and C5.
Actions:
remove remaining paste and carbon from the board and parts, wash the board, replace faulty parts.
"Dead Receiver" - check fuse F1, high voltage breaking resistor RV1, low voltage breaking resistor RT1, D11, U1, check primary winding T1 for open circuit.
The fuse has blown - look at RV1, diode bridge D1-D4, C3, C1,
The outputs of the power supply are zeros– look at U1.
The receiver does not turn on– look at U1, C17, C18, C11, C16.
The receiver goes into reboot– look at U1, C17, C3.
When turned on, the indication “Standby» - look at C3, C17, C18.
All display segments flash- look at C17, C18.
Indication "8888"– look at C3, C17, C18.
The voltages at the outputs of the power supply are underestimated and jumping– look at D6, D7.
The power supply underestimates output voltage – look at U3, C12, C17, C21, D9.
The power supply overestimates the output voltage– look at C17.
There is no 30v or 22v at the output– look at D7, D10, C5, C22.
There is noise on the screen in the form of horizontal light stripes running upward– look at C3, U1, C12, C15, C16, C17, C18.
There is no signal on tricolor frequency– look at C17, C18.
Scattering pictures variable background in the image, hum in the background sound– look at C3, C7, C8, C18.
Transformer clicking, red LED flashing– check D5, R, C7, then D11, R3, check the diodes of the secondary circuit and check the winding of transformer T1 for an open circuit.
The list of faults will be updated.
From my experience: The remote control for these receivers can be replaced with a remote control from HUMAX. The same applies to the universal type SURC-8148L (for $7) and the like)) - the setting code on the remote control is selected by auto-selection (I have attached instructions from the SURC remote control in RUSSIAN).
The universal one is more convenient than the native one, the buttons are not immediately erased. SURC.doc (87.5 Kb)
Much work to your receiver!!!
Failure of the power supply is one of the most common failures of satellite receivers. As a rule, this occurs due to loss of capacitance of capacitors due to long term operation, or if damper elements and diode bridges are damaged due to a sudden voltage drop.
The symptoms of a breakdown are quite simple: the receiver either does not turn on at all, or after turning on the device screen begins to blink and nothing else happens. Repairing satellite receivers comes down to replacing damaged elements and does not take much time. In the most difficult case, the problem is solved by completely replacing the power supply.
Cryptomodule failure
A rarer, but rather simple case is the breakdown of the cryptomodule responsible for decrypting the encrypted signal. In this case, the receiver works normally, but a message appears on the TV screen indicating that the signal is encrypted (depending on the model, this message can be displayed in both Russian and English languages). Repair of satellite receivers in in this case is also quite simple: replacing the crypto module with a working one will help correct the situation.
Tuner malfunction
Failure of the tuner is accompanied by scattering or complete disappearance of the image, as well as periodic or constant loss of sound. This symptomatology is nonspecific, and may also be a consequence of damage to the antenna socket or cable, problems with satellite converter, and even a banal weakening of the signal due to external factors. Therefore, repair of satellite receivers in such cases should be carried out only after a thorough diagnosis.
Malfunction of the system (motherboard) board
This category of faults is very diverse, and in most cases, in order to unambiguously identify the cause of the failure, it is necessary to carry out full diagnostics. Many symptoms are ambiguous and may result from incorrect setting peripheral equipment, cable damage, and other factors.
For example, if the receiver goes into continuous booting, or all the symbols on its display light up at the same time, and the device itself refuses to work, this may be the result of a failure software. Repairing satellite receivers comes down to a simple flashing (that is, reprogramming the device). At the same time, this symptom may be a consequence of a failure of the receiver's BIOS, and require replacement of the defective chip.
05.06.2011, 21:52
abrakad, you didn’t write what PWM controller is in your receiver. I would start by wiring the PWM controller, also look at the optocoupler in the comparator, and the secondary voltage of +3.3V determines the voltage stabilization in the power supply, and from here, that with a 3.3V diode. It is advisable not to sin at all in motherboard, turn on the power supply to the load, load a 12V X 5W car light bulb on the +12V bus, but no more.
06.06.2011, 08:53
Switching power supply circuit is not just a diode bridge
Check all low voltage diodes, if anything, change the shim.
06.06.2011, 20:20
Thanks for the help!
06.06.2011, 22:25
Thanks for the help!
The 1N5820 (D8) Schottky diode died. Since there is no analogue yet, I will wait until Wednesday to try to buy it at the radio market
abrakad, yesterday you yourself wrote that there is no +3.3V at all, I also suggested to you yesterday that you check the same diode at 3.3V.
Without waiting for Wednesday, you can replace the 1N5820, at least temporarily, with our native diode KD226D (in Soviet TVs 3USTST BP or BR) or equivalent, check the polarity before installation. The transition resistance of 1N5820 and KD226D is different, but nevertheless it works.
07.06.2011, 09:16
Thanks for the advice, I, in principle, also initially thought about installing a similar diode as a temporary option, but I’ll wait and install the original (Chinese, of course) I’m running out of time
08.06.2011, 22:10
Good afternoon
this symptom:
Hello, dear ones!
Globo4100C died after a thunderstorm. An autopsy showed that all power supply voltages are underestimated (by approximately 2-3 V), where 3.3 V is 0., where 12V is 8-9 V, etc. I changed all (almost all) capacitors. Input 47*400, output via circuits C13, C15, C19, C1. The situation has not changed. Does anyone have any ideas??? On a PWM controller with 6-8 legs, the voltage changes within 50-800V (alas, I don’t have an oscilloscope, I only check with a multimeter)
Help!!
22.06.2011, 14:26
Hi all
available res.OPENFOX 4100+
I don’t have a diagram right away, I’ll say right away that the power supply was faulty, a swollen 1000 microfarad condenser, I replaced it and replaced the transistor in the primary and several more condensers in the secondary, all the voltages are normal as those written on the power supply board, with and without load, when turning on the res on the display before the renovation it was half dark, it was shining... what other reason could there be? I don’t know what percentage there is a radiator on top
yes on the main board it says OPENFOX 4100+ VER 3.8
22.06.2011, 15:30
Good afternoon
For ease of reference, I will quote myself:
this symptom:
Solution to the issue: Replacement of capacitors (this is already the default, even if they are still breathing, time is still not in their favor, replacement will only improve the overall situation) + replacement of the Schottky diode D8 I replaced the 1N5820 with a similar 1N5822 (with a higher voltage) Everything worked immediately !
Thanks again for your help!!! Pavva
THE SAME REPLACEMENT OF THE DIODE SAVED THE SITUATION THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
23.06.2011, 21:13
Optikum 4100, at the output of the tuner in the duty room is 23v when 24.5v is turned on, on the power supply instead of 22v 24.5 instead of 12v 14, 5 and 3.3 correspond. After the lightning...
Where to dig?
23.06.2011, 22:26
After the lightning...Styopa, after the lightning the concept is loose, what exactly is wrong with the receiver, the display does not light up, there is no signal, it does not start, etc.!!! The voltage is almost within the limits, doubtfully 12V (14V), there is no signal - check the voltage at the tuner output is 13/18V, on the LM317 radiator it should also change to 13/18V (in working condition), check the thermistor (fuse) yellow color in the area of LM317!!! When you check and write the exact name of the receiver Optikum 4100 or Optikum 4100C, we will think further!!!
24.06.2011, 14:51
I changed the ka317, the voltage changed to 9V, then I replaced the tr-p near the ka317, one rang in both directions on 200 ohms, it helped, now everything is ok
Thank you
PS 4100s optikum
25.06.2011, 17:30
Well, no one has a diagram for OPENFOX 4100+
On the meter OPENFOX 4100 VER 3.8
25.06.2011, 18:29
Well, no one has a diagram for OPENFOX 4100+ But isn’t the diagram from Globo 4100C suitable for you, because it is a complete clone of this receiver, perhaps the part numbers are different, but the rest should be the same!!! There are several diagrams for Globo4100C in this thread http:/ /westsat.net.ua/showthread.php?t=78&page=11
25.06.2011, 18:54
Isn't the circuit from Globo 4100C suitable for you, because it is a complete clone of this receiver, perhaps the part numbers are different, but the rest should be the same!!! There are several circuits for Globo4100C in this topic http://westsat.net.ua/showthread.php ?t=78&page=11
Yes, that’s exactly what doesn’t work ((((I have exactly the same power supply and I need a VER 3.8 motherboard circuit for it)
For example, in GLOBO4100C
Voltages 22v, 12v, 5v, 3.3v
I have 33v, 24v, 12v, 5v, 3.3v
25.06.2011, 19:18
I have exactly the same power supply and I need a VER 3.8 motherboard circuit for it. What is it with your processor? Actually, why do you need a circuit that doesn’t work for you, maybe we can give you a hint???
25.06.2011, 19:28
What's wrong with you?
I don’t know what percentage is there on top, the radiator is not visible, but there are 128 legs, I definitely counted one side...
Actually, why do you need a circuit that doesn’t work for you, maybe we can give you a hint???
Well, at first this is what happened, a friend brought it and said something shot))) well, I looked, I thought I’d just replace the Conder and that’s it, but that was not the case, I changed one Conder, the one that fired 470 uF. then another one for 1000 uF, then the transistor in the primary blew out, changed that too... turned on everything, and the power supply works but nothing lights up on the display at all.. I tried to drain the dump, it drains to 70 percent and that’s it..
I measured the voltage on the motherboard, everything corresponds, but it’s only 0.5 volts more, almost everything under load... yes, there were several times that the 4 lines at the bottom were dimly lit... when you pressed the on/off button on the remote control, the glow became a little stronger and that’s it. .I wanted to measure all the voltages on the process and, in general, measure the voltages where they go..
Yes, I can’t measure anything at work now..
25.06.2011, 20:34
I don’t know what percentage is there on top, the radiator is not visible, but there are 128 legs, I definitely counted one side... As the song says, “I made him out of what was there...”...i.e. PSU from Globo7010A, proc. from Globo4100C(Ali3329C)!!! The motherboard is by chance not of this type 20226
25.06.2011, 20:46
PSU from Globo7010A
yes, I have the power supply circuit from him,
The motherboard is by chance not of this type
I won’t give an answer to all 100 because the res at work now is 99, which is what it is, if you have a res like that, there is a connector from the power supply on the left in the photo, it’s not visible, there are voltages the same as I wrote above - 3.3v5v, 12v ,24v,33v???that means she is the one
25.06.2011, 23:21
there are voltages there as I wrote above - 3.3v5v, 12v, 24v, 33v???
Hi all!!!
Vovik, it looks like you have an old-style r/frequency unit installed in your receiver, that’s why you need a voltage of +33V, the new-style units use +5V power supply.
25.06.2011, 23:36
It looks like you have an old-style r/frequency unit installed in your receiver
Do you mean the tuner in the res? Can you help with the circuit?
25.06.2011, 23:45
It looks like you have an old-style r/frequency unit installed in your receiver. This will not make a person feel any better, the trouble is that there is no schematic on the Internet and this receiver was assembled from parts different types receivers with processor Ali3329B and C!!!
if you have such a res, then on the left there is a connector from the power supply in the photo. I don’t have such a receiver and haven’t come across it for repair!!! This photo was taken from our forum, where the user s7e7r7g was helped to restore it via jitag http://westsat.net.ua /showthread.php?t=103&page=2, in your case the symptoms are similar, but according to your message the power supply failed, you restored it, but it doesn’t work, the flash remains and so on!!! What are the main voltages supplied to the legs of the processor? You can look at the Globo4100C diagram and move along the paths towards the connector on the motherboard with the power supply, the voltage may be supplied incorrectly, try to reflash the flash via the jitag or replace it with a new one!!! Without having the diagram, I would personally go this route, i.e. from processor to power supply!!!
25.06.2011, 23:56
from processor to power supply!!!
and not vice versa?
What are the main voltages supplied to the legs of the processor? You can look at the diagram Globo4100C
should the voltages match? I already measured a little on the voltage of 3.3 volts, but there was very little time to measure everything... the dp percent gets warm and if you turn on the res. well, not so much that I think it’s his working temperature because there is a radiator
26.06.2011, 00:20
and not vice versa? When there is no scheme it has to be this way, i.e. from percent to BP!!!
Well, not so much that I really think this is its operating temperature, because the radiator is installed. In principle, everything is percent. warm up, check the voltage at the core of the processor, it should be 1.8V!!! 20229 20228
26.06.2011, 00:30
from percent to BP!!!
I’ll do that. I’ll measure the voltage first, and then if I try something through the jig...
Is it possible for globiks to lose their memory due to the power supply?
26.06.2011, 12:00
Is it possible for Globiks to lose memory because of the power supply? In your grapefruit (not an orange, not a lemon, and it tastes unpleasant) everything is possible, personally, so far I haven’t come across any memory loss in the receiver due to the power supply, mainly due to incorrect filling software!!!
I will measure the voltage first, and then if I try something through the jigat... Personally, I did the opposite, first I measured the voltage at the core of the processor and 3.3V, then I did a djitag to be completely sure of the flash drive and if the jigtag didn’t work, then I was already looking for the reason in the hardware!!! In short, you will have to suffer with this hybrid!!!
26.06.2011, 13:20
In short, you will have to suffer with this hybrid!!!
Well, I already understood that... will jigat work with resistors? Why not do it on a microcircuit? In principle, I haven’t made jigat yet ((I’ll have to master it already.. click where about jigat for this res.. yes, I have a laptop and have a USB adapter who will succeed or not?
26.06.2011, 13:51
Yes, I have a laptop and I have a USB com adapter, will it work or not? It won’t work, I need an LPT port!!!
In principle, I haven’t done a jigat yet. Read in this thread http://westsat.net.ua/showthread.php?t=103, what files are needed for recovery for Globo4100C http://westsat.net.ua/showthread.php?t= 33 message No. 2 (10 min. recovery)!!! Can be assembled using resistors, but the cable connecting the jitag should be no more than 10-15 cm, it is better to assemble a microcircuit and it will be useful to you in the future, the cable length on the microcircuit can be up to 70-80 cm .
26.06.2011, 14:19
Need LPT port!!!
I have a USB-COM adapter branded from Canada, I also have such an adapter, I’ll post a photo later from work, I think it’ll work...
It’s better to assemble the microcircuit and it will be useful to you in the future
Will it fit any res for jigat in the future?
26.06.2011, 14:47
will it fit any res for jigat in the future? For all types of receivers with Ali3329B and C processors, just switching to debug mode (Debug) is different for receivers!!!
I have a USB-COM adapter branded from Canada, I also have such an adapter, I’ll post a photo. Upload it and we’ll see, but I doubt it’s USB-LPT, I haven’t seen it personally yet!!!
26.06.2011, 14:56
Valera61, so, for example, for Arion-like ones you need to solder another jigat...
Post it and we’ll see, but I doubt it will be USB-LPT, I haven’t personally seen it yet!!!
damn it’s a pity that he’s not at home but at work (((I would have taken a photo now.. I was wondering why I needed that adapter
26.06.2011, 18:51
The last message was after mine, I never read it ((((
26.06.2011, 19:10
so, for example, for arion-like ones, you need to solder another jigat... Yes, a different one, but you can use this one, altering it a little if necessary, there is a different wiring on the connector for the LPT port (swap a couple of wires)!!! I did it this way while I had one microcircuit, now I have two - one for Arion-like and others with a processor of 5518, the other for a processor of Ali3329!!!
29.06.2011, 16:56
Valera61, I’m posting a photo of the res inside, it seems to me that it has a smaller processor than the Globik.....
and a USB-COM adapter with an adapter, will this be suitable? This will be the LPT port
29.06.2011, 22:43
Valera61, well, what kind of adapter is suitable for the jitag?
29.06.2011, 23:42
Well, is such an adapter suitable for the jet? Volodya (judging by Nick’s name) this adapter will not work, because... These are all COM ports, one 9-pin. for new computers, and 25-pin for old computers, or connect an external Internet modem if there is no COM port, i.e. via USB!!! You need to look for a PC with an LPT port (female), and the connectors from your cables with 25 pins (male) can be used for a jitag cable, I also see that you have them filled in (not collapsible), it’s better to look for a microcircuit 74HC244 and assemble a jitag on it!!! Is everything normal with the voltages or is there a deviation???
30.06.2011, 17:32
Valera61, I understand about the adapters, but is the jigat for globiks and Ariono-like ones assembled on the same chip?
Is everything normal with the voltages or is there a deviation???
Yes, the voltage to the core was 2.4 volts...
Yes, here’s one more question, the microcircuit in the front panel of the MC74HC164AN burned out, the outputs from it are short-circuited, the tracks on the board are already brown))) due to overheating.. I’ve already soldered it out, tried to connect it via scart to the TV, when I turn on the power loads and switches automatically from TV to res but still on the screen dark screen and when you press the buttons on the remote control, nothing lights up, no menu, nothing is probably due to the lack of a microcircuit on the panel, I unsoldered it.....
01.07.2011, 19:36
01.07.2011, 20:03
orton 4100 new. I plug it into the network - no signs. 8-10 minutes pass and it starts working. Maybe someone had this. please help.
I had this. They brought it with a similar glitch - it didn’t turn on right away. 3 electrolytes in the power supply have failed. In general, in case of any malfunction, the very first thing is to check the power supply. Visually - for the presence of swelling of the capacitors, and with a device - for voltage compliance.
02.07.2011, 07:26
02.07.2011, 10:03
The capacitors are not swollen, although I changed them, but with the device - I’m just starting to check and the tuner turns on. and again wait at least 5-6 hours. If you leave it on duty it turns on immediately.
Hi all!!!
lubomur, the first time you use the device, look at the +3.3V voltage in the power supply, it may be underestimated, as well as the power supply to the processor and core.
03.07.2011, 15:32
Hello! We brought a Globo 4100c receiver (manufactured in 2007) with the problem of not turning on. I discovered a blown fuse and a diode bridge in the original power supply unit. I fixed it, fixed it, the output voltage is normal, only at 12V - 14 centimeters. I connected it to the TV and saw this picture (see file) My actions: I transferred the power supply from the working res, tried to connect it on 2 different working TVs with both Scart and tulips, changed the settings of RGB, PAL, etc., changed the quartz, I can check for ripple with an oscilloscope on Tuesday ( at work). I don’t have a donor to replace Q2...,Q6 at hand. I read somewhere about replacing C6 and C5. Tomorrow I’ll try, I think the problem is in the wiring of Q2.....Q6. Indicate the logical chain of searching for a faulty part.
03.07.2011, 16:20
Tomorrow I will try, I think the problem is in the Q2 wiring.....Q6 The thoughts are correct, but do not forget about the 27 MHz quartz and the C4558 chip, there is no video synchronization!!! Your video is short and it is not clear about the sound from the channel, you can only hear the noise of the TV sound! !!
04.07.2011, 11:21
I bought a 4100c at frequencies above 12520, there is no signal, I replaced the input unit marked XT-0502 with a Sharp, everything worked, I read that the capacitors in the input unit are being changed, but I don’t know which ones, please help, there are 3 more tuners with this defect
04.07.2011, 11:37
From the video fragment you can see that the overload is “video” - look at the transistors Q5-Q6; you also need to look at the resistors that are connected “to the video”.
It is advisable to check everything for resistance compliance.
"Thunderstorm" is your tuner.
19.07.2011, 12:39
Hi all!
Caught in repair ORTON 4100C does not start, as is often the case in the power supply - 3.3V is too low. Power supply for DM0265R.
I replaced the electrolytes at +3.3V, the receiver started up, but instead of 3.3V there is only 3.2V, and everything else is a little too high, in principle this is how it should be:
+5v - +5.8v
+12v - +13.6v
+22v - +24.1v.
To restore +3.3V, I checked all the resistors, substituted capacitors, diodes, an optocoupler, a controlled zener diode, even substituted another microcircuit - everything was the same. I don’t have a transformer to check, maybe it’s to blame, it has a barcode stuck on it instead of a marking.
What is characteristic is that the power supply is +3.3V,
after diode D8 +3.6V,
after throttle L2 +3.4v,
on the motherboard CN2 +3.2V.
Even if you disconnect the +3.3V wire from the motherboard and turn on the receiver, the voltage still does not rise to +3.3V.
When checking the power supply, I found a resistor R11 not included in the diagram - 1 kOhm and R7, instead of 330 Ohms there was 100 Ohms in the power supply, so I replaced it with 330 Ohms.
Who has any thoughts?
Satellite TV takes last place in the entertainment industry. And this is facilitated by - inexpensive price on equipment and an extensive list of channels. But all the joy can come down to “no” if the receiver does not turn on satellite television.
Everything would be fine, but there is one unpleasant moment. Chinese receivers often fail. The main cause of equipment failure is a broken power supply. This happens due to thunderstorms, voltage surges, and simply poor-quality components of this unit. In contrast, other receiver modules practically do not break. It’s about this common breakdown that we’ll talk and find out how to repair the receiver’s power supply with your own hands.
This article will provide simple and practical ways, allowing you to determine the faulty part in the tuner power supply. Although the methods are simple, their use in most cases allows you to repair the power supply of the satellite television receiver yourself.
So, if your satellite TV receiver model: Gione, Cosmo Sat and the like has stopped working, then don’t rush to worry, maybe everything is not so bad. Try to find the reason yourself without the help of specialists.
What might you need? Multimeter, continuity tester, soldering iron and a little patience.
We remove the cover of the device and see a separate module. It's there pulse block nutrition. To start troubleshooting, remove it by unscrewing the screws and disconnecting the connector on system board. Now the payment is before us.
The first thing you need to do with the board is to visually determine whether there are damaged (swollen) capacitors and other circuit elements. Often this is the reason why the satellite TV receiver does not turn on.
If damage is not visible, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cord and fuse. We put a continuity tester on the ends of the fuse, and by the reaction of the device we determine its integrity.
If the fuse is good, that's good. And if not, then do not rush to change it, since the same thing can happen to it as to the first one. It is better to solder a socket with an incandescent lamp in its place. The lamp has a power of 60 watts and a voltage of 220 volts.
Now, if in the circuit, when turned on, there will be short circuit, then the lamp will simply light up at full intensity, without causing any harm to the circuit. If the lamp does not light up when you turn it on, take a multimeter and measure the voltage on a large capacitor 47 uF * 400 volts.
The multimeter must be set to “measurement” mode DC voltage" On the contacts of the capacitor when normal operation, the voltage should be about 300 volts. If there is none, then we call along the chain - from the fuse to diode bridge. In case of presence AC voltage at the input of the bridge, everything points to a breakdown of the diodes, and this is also one of the frequent breakdowns in which the satellite television receiver does not turn on. To determine which diode has failed, you need to unsolder one end of each.
Then, by placing a continuity tester on each diode alternately and swapping the ends, we determine their integrity. A working diode must pass current in one direction. If the diode rings equally in two positions, it means it is broken. Most often, a pair of diodes fail. Therefore, if possible, it is better to change all four at once, since after such breakdowns, even those that remain working change their parameters. As a result, partial replacement of diodes can be considered as an inferior repair of the receiver's power supply. This means that there is a high probability that one day you may again encounter a situation where you will need to eliminate this malfunction, as a result of which the satellite television receiver has stopped working.
The diodes have been replaced, now we turn it on again and measure the DC voltage on the same capacitor. It should be, as mentioned above, about 300 volts. If this is the case, then the next diagnostic step is to measure the alternating voltage on one of the primary windings of the transformer. How to do this can be seen in the photo below.
The device should show about 150 volts, and the voltage should seem to “float”, that is, change. If this does not happen, then most likely the microcircuit has failed. You can replace the microcircuit and repeat the measurements again.
When the device shows the presence of a pulsating alternating voltage on the primary winding, it is necessary to immediately measure the direct voltage at the output of the unit.
To do this, put the multimeter in the “DC voltage measurement” mode and attach the negative (black) probe to the second slot on the connector. This is the common (negative) contact. Using the other end of the device, we measure the voltages at the slots of the connector one by one.
If you turn the plug with the slots towards you and measure from left to right, then the voltages should be as follows:
- general
- general
- 3.3V
If there is no voltage, then we do the same operation with the diodes of the secondary circuit, as described above. Having identified a faulty one, we replace it. Note the larger diode. It is labeled SR-360 and the like. It fails most often. By replacing it, you can solve the problem when the satellite television receiver does not turn on. Again we measure the voltage at the terminals.
If this method does not yield anything, then most likely the microcircuit in the primary circuit, which acts as an alternating voltage generator, has “failure” high frequency. But, as practice shows, this rarely happens.
That's all I wanted to tell you about repairing the power supply of the satellite television receiver. Successful repair.