Why does the TV turn off when you turn off the lights? Problem with electricity - TV in the apartment, help needed

I tried to turn off the general light - it did not respond. Lampshade only.
What could be the problem? Or are higher powers playing around?
Thank you!

Smart, maybe it's a TV? So he's spying on you. You turn off the lampshade, the picture becomes darker, and he starts frantically turning the camera - there’s no time to receive a signal anymore. :)

Try to find a camera on it and seal it with electrical tape :) Or drag the lampshade to another room for testing (only into an outlet with the same phase, preferably)

No camera.

Regular incandescent lamp, no dimmer.
Previously, it was turned on and off with a string up and down, now the normal switch just hangs down.
Why exactly when turning off, and not when turning on the light? I think that when the lampshade is turned on (it is always on when grandma is watching TV) then periodic glitches with digital broadcasting begin.

Another option is to use a surge protector for the equipment. (even a capacitor with a quenching resistor should help if this is the problem and not a bad contact in the junction box).

When turned on, energy consumption occurs quite smoothly. When turning off, a spark jumps while the contacts are opening. most likely, the reaction occurs precisely to it.
Another option is to use a surge protector for the equipment. (even a capacitor with a quenching resistor should help if this is the problem and not a bad contact in the junction box).

transient processes are called

When turned on, energy consumption occurs quite smoothly. When turning off, a spark jumps while the contacts are opening. most likely, the reaction occurs precisely to it.

It would be fair to talk about a spark if the load is reactive. The reactivity of an incandescent lamp is almost none.
It seems to me that you are also confused about the abrupt change. When turned on, the surge/change in current consumption should be greater than when turned off.

Clean the switch contacts - useful advice, In my opinion.

Yes, the delta function does exist. For my part, I would suggest: connect an ordinary table lamp (not grandma’s age) to the socket of the lampshade, or, well, or any other electrical appliance and repeat the experiment on it. Further it will be clearer where the pheasant has settled.

I wanted to blurt this out too, but I restrained myself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
She casts a spell quietly...

She sits next to her in a chair and fires at everyone.
Who will seize who, who will spank,
And God forbid she open her mouth, Showbiz, hold on!
My grandmother reads the newspaper "Life".

It would be fair to talk about a spark if the load is reactive. The reactivity of an incandescent lamp is almost none.
It seems to me that you are also confused about the abrupt change. When turned on, the surge/change in current consumption should be greater than when turned off.

Cleaning the contacts on the switch is good advice, in my opinion.

The issue may also be in the design of the switch itself. In one position it gives a spark, and in the opposite direction it returns more clearly, without a spark. A spark interferes with the network - digital module catches a glitch from interference, thinks.
And if there is also old aluminum wiring, this separate section may create some voltage drop or surge when turned off.

Same bullshit. I have a connection via HDMI and VGA. I use it via HDMI - 2 meters. The cable is not shielded (I'm thinking of buying a shielded one 1 meter long). I tried it with filters and without filters. With filters it turns off less often.
When I connect via VGA cable, then the monitor does not go off (more precisely, the video signal does not disappear). Tried the following options:
1. I ran a copper wire from the panel - one to the refrigerator, and the second to the computer. The electricians put each wire on the panel on a machine, and all the machines on (I don’t know what the device is called, also like a switch) on a common one with the microprocessor. Did not help!
2. Connected a voltage stabilizer to both the monitor and system unit computer (hereinafter referred to as the system unit), and to the monitor with the system unit. Did not help!
3. Connected both the computer and the monitor (separately and together) via an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Did not help!
4. Connected the refrigerator through an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) and a refrigerator voltage stabilizer. Did not help!
5. Called electricians, checked the sockets and panel. We took measurements. They said everything was fine. Those. Calling electricians was unsuccessful. Did not help!
6. I took the monitor to service (I have a Samsung 23"" LED, model LS23C350H is still under warranty, maximum power 30 W). An error has been detected in the power supply (I have an external one). We replaced the power supply with a new one, tested and without errors. Did not help!
7. Connected through different network filters and specialized Pilot bit zis.ru/setevoy-filtr/pilot-bit/features. Did not help!
8. Connected via HDMI cable (2 meters) without ferrite filters. Did not help!
9. Connected via HDMI cable (2 meters) with ferrite filters. Did not help!
10. Wrapped hdmi cable food foil. Did not help!
11. Moved the computer away from the refrigerator. Did not help!
12. Called a refrigerator technician. He checked everything. He says the refrigerator is fine. Did not help!

Electricity supply to the apartment is 5 kW.
I connected another monitor, but it was not an HDMI cable, but a DVI cable. The video signal stopped disappearing for 0.5-1 second (the monitor does not go off).
Next, a question arose about the video card and monitor controller, which is connected to the HDMI socket.
Connected via cable HDMI TV. When the refrigerator is turned on, the video signal does not disappear.
Therefore, the problem is not with the video card.
I contacted the service again, saying that replacing the monitor’s power supply did not solve the problem. The master tells me that he doesn’t find any problems, saying that they don’t disassemble and solder on site, because... all faults change blockwise, but not here visible malfunction, but create (it cannot imitate similar conditions). I suggested contacting Samsung (a couple of days before, I had already contacted them and talked about this problem), they suggested I contact service. I did that, but (the description above) did not help.
I contacted Samsung again, explained what was happening, that I tried connecting another monitor, everything worked.
In response, they promised to solve the problem and should contact me from customer service within one or two days. Let's wait.
Further, after a couple of weeks of negotiations with Samsung (I sent them a video of the monitor’s operation captured by a smartphone). We decided to replace motherboard in the monitor. I took it to the service center and they replaced it, but the problem remained. Further, Samsung company forced my service "Bel-Service" to conduct a monitor test with the participation of some kind of refrigerator. The service checked and my words were confirmed, i.e. The monitor image disappears when the refrigerator is turned on and even when the relay is switched.
About a week later, Samsung decided that the monitor was faulty and they returned my money (I wanted to replace it, but there were no such monitors for the same price, because due to the dollar exchange rate, which had grown noticeably, all imports had become more expensive). As a result, I bought an ACER 23" with IPS matrix for 8,500 rubles (in fact, to the previous cost, the money of which was returned to me, I added 2,000 rubles and bought a monitor that has a DVI input and a 3-year warranty. The image quality is even better than the previous Samsung monitor with a TN matrix. The main thing is now The image does not disappear when the refrigerator is turned on.
In general, if anyone has a similar problem with their monitor, feel free to indicate to the service all the actions I described + record a video of the monitor turning off and immediately bring all this information to the service and, at the same time, to the manufacturer of your monitor (to speed up the process of returning money or exchanging the monitor) .
Good luck to all!

Good afternoon

The first thing to do in such a situation is to run an extension cord and connect it directly to the input power panel. If the problem is solved, then the whole issue is due to poor-quality wiring: most likely, there is an unreliable contact somewhere, for example, in a junction box, socket or switch. What to do if the situation does not change? Consider these reasons.

Voltage drops in the network

They may be the cause of abnormal operation of the TV. A drop in voltage in the network is especially typical for suburban areas, and most often this happens in the evening and especially on weekends, when people come to rest. You just need to measure the voltage in the outlet at the moment it drops (when the TV turns off). If it is below the permissible value (the minimum value must be indicated in the TV passport), then possible way out from the situation - buying a stabilizer. It is advisable to buy a device that provides the required voltage to all electrical appliances in the house at once, and not just one TV.

Before buying a stabilizer, make sure that its power will be enough for you

Household appliances as a cause of problems

A voltage drop in the network can occur, for example, due to the inclusion of a refrigerator or power tool. At the moment of start-up, this equipment consumes several times more than when regular work, which causes a voltage drop and the TV goes out. When electrical appliances start to work normal mode, 220 volts are restored and the TV starts working. When several houses are connected to one power line, the TV will not work well if, for example, your neighbor uses electric welding or has a mini-sawmill at home. The solution here is also the same - buying a stabilizer. But it also happens that the options discussed above do not help.

Capacitor failure

It’s worth noting here that if you don’t have a friend who has at least a little knowledge of electronics, then it’s better to take the TV to a workshop, especially if it’s still under warranty. Otherwise you need to remove back cover and inspect the power supply unit (PSU). This may be the reason. The fact is that the power supply has a built-in stabilizer. It is quite possible that it smooths out the drop in normal voltage, but not the pulse voltage. Usually the cause is the failure of an electrolytic capacitor: a large barrel located on the power supply (its average parameters are 150-200 uF at 450 volts).

Replacement of the capacitor should only be done by a specialist!

If this part is swollen, it must be replaced. To know for sure, the capacitor needs to be unsoldered and checked with a tester.

Sometimes a completely everyday problem arises - the TV blinks when the lights in the room are turned on. Not everyone notices it right away, and if they do, they don’t attach any importance to it - you never know what kind of interference there could be. However, this can signal both a malfunction of the equipment and serious damage. electrical network in the house.

Main causes of malfunction

Usually, interference on the TV is attributed to a weak signal, not associated with the lamp being turned on: neither the chandelier nor the sconce is in any direct contact with the equipment. But often the screen flashing continues to repeat, and even new TV If the connection is working properly, it may blink and turn off.

It looks different:

1. the screen blinks and goes off for a few seconds;
2. The brightness of the picture decreases;
3. Interference passes across the screen, but everything quickly returns to normal;
4. the image goes out, only sound remains, the device turns off;
5. The TV turns off and turns on spontaneously.

Obviously, the reasons for these malfunctions are different. They may be as follows:

• Low mains voltage.
• Weak signal television.
• Cross signal from the remote control.
• Damage to the socket (contacts and connections).
• Device malfunction.

There are reasons not related to electricity, such as loss of signal from the control panel or faulty capacitors, or related indirectly - many modern televisions have a special function in which the brightness of the image is adjusted to changes in lighting in the room.

The latest models of remote controls are suitable for devices of different brands; their signal has a long range. Coincidence of remote control signals is not at all uncommon, given the thin walls in apartment buildings. But most often, this feature of the remote control leads to either switching channels or turning off equipment, but not to interference or flickering of the screen. Problems with the start button sticking are also common. Therefore, in most cases, the blinking of the TV when the lights are turned on is not associated with the remote control, although if there is a malfunction in the operation, checking the remote control will not hurt.

One of the common reasons is a malfunction of the outlet, especially after recent repairs. When replacing wiring, replace all switches and sockets. In this case, the problem may lie in the insufficient depth of the new input - the plug does not come into close contact with the bar, and with additional load on the network, the equipment simply turns off.

If the reason is in the outlet, then it is easy to determine. To do this you need to do the following:

• unplug the device from the outlet;
• connect a lamp or other there household appliance, the inclusion of which can be seen immediately;
• try turning on the chandelier again.

The easiest way to check this is on a lamp. If during these manipulations the lamp in the lamp blinks, goes out or goes dark for a while, then the fault definitely lies in the socket. To troubleshoot and troubleshoot a problem, you need to call a specialist, since it can be either a defect in the product or in the wiring itself.

Low voltage in the network

Most common cause is low voltage in the network or its fluctuations.

Low power supply voltage is not uncommon, as most modern equipment absorbs more than the wiring can handle. Usually a lot of kitchen appliances are included in the house: kettle, microwave, refrigerator and so on. The total load is supplemented by a computer, an air conditioner, an electric heater in cold weather, and even a charging phone, which is not recommended if the wiring is weak. Therefore, when simultaneous connection There is also a power surge in the network of the TV and the lighting, and the protection is triggered.

The problem arises because only two branches are installed as standard, which provide protection against surges. Simply put, when the chandelier is turned on, the network itself turns off another source of energy consumption.

A common cause of low voltage is poor-quality branch wires. Poor contact increases resistance in the problem area, which causes the voltage to decrease. In this situation, the TV turns off. To solve the problem, it is enough to connect a stabilizer, the purpose of which is to equalize the voltage in the network. This is an inexpensive device that will protect household appliances when there are differences.

Conclusion

Safety comes first, so it is important that all equipment works properly. Don't ignore noise on your TV when you turn on the lights just because it seems insignificant. Regardless of what the cause is - a malfunction of the remote control or power surges in the network, it must be identified and eliminated.