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Television has long been an integral part of life. Even in villages you will rarely find a house where there is no TV installed. Moreover, channels can be broadcast in different ways: via a cable or satellite. Broadcasting capabilities via cable are limited and the quality of the channels is worse. Therefore, many consumers are thinking about how to set up a satellite dish themselves, so as not to spend money on calling a technician.

Installed antenna

In space, at the level of the Earth's equator, television satellites rotate, sending the signal to the planet where it is received special devices- antennas, and then this signal is decoded on the TV set-top box and transmits the image.

In this case, the satellite antenna acts as a kind of lens that collects radio waves into one beam, amplifying it for stable reception. Moreover, the further the satellite is located from the equipment, the larger the dish diameter will be required.

Accordingly, without high-quality receiving equipment, the signal will not reach the TV. Therefore, it is important to choose the right dish, the signal from which enters the convector, then is converted and goes to the receiver, and only then hits the screen.

The receiver is installed close to the TV. From power and quality of this equipment The number and clarity of transmitted channels depends. The installed software allows you to “catch” and recognize a huge number of TV programs. By updating the receiver's firmware version, you can gain access to new channels.It is such affordable and high-quality television that gives rise to the question of how to set up a satellite dish yourself, and then TV channels.

How to install a satellite dish yourself (instructions for dummies)

In order not to assemble a set for satellite TV in parts, you can buy it in a specialized store or order it online. Models are updated, you shouldn’t take one that is too outdated. This package includes the following elements:

After purchasing the equipment, the question arises of how to independently install a satellite dish on the roof or outside the window.

Related article:

How to make a DIY antenna for a TV. In this article we will look at simple methods on how to make a DIY antenna for a TV, which may be useful to you.

Selecting a location

First, assemble the antenna itself according to the instructions. Check the tightness of all bolts and nuts. Leave only one fastening loosely twisted (to the convector itself), which will be responsible for the vertical slope.

The convector must be mounted in the middle, watch its length. The cable outlet should be positioned perpendicular to the ground. Complete consolidation occurs after receiving a clear signal and sufficient power.

Now you need to select the installation location. Usually mounted on a wall or roof. To the right side lunch time the sun will fall. You can see how your neighbors have the same equipment installed.

Most dishes are directed in one direction, most often it is 56 degrees east longitude (Trikalor and NTV plus). If you connect to Rainbow TV, the equipment will be directed slightly to the left (19⁰). Continent TV and Telekarata is set to 85⁰.

When you choose the direction and installation location, you need to check that the signal is not interfered with by foreign objects, that is, nothing should block the antenna. After all checks, you can proceed to the stage of securing the equipment.

Bracket Installation

The bracket must be firmly fixed, and different bolts are used for different walls. For brick, concrete or wood walls, a plumbing screw with a 17 or 13 head is suitable. If you use standard antenna with a diameter of 90 s, then a length of 6 cm of screw will suffice.

You can simply screw a screw into wood; for concrete or brick, first make a hole with a hammer drill, and install dowels in bulk.

Important! If you are mounting satellite equipment on foam concrete or aerated concrete, then purchase suitable dowels.

If the home is sheathed with siding, then longer plumbing bolts will be required, and spacers made of metal tubes will also be installed. First, prepare holes of the required diameter, then make spacers and install the antenna.

You can also fix the equipment on a metal beam; for this you should use metal screws with a special drill with a hexagonal head.When the equipment is assembled, but the last bolt is not yet tightened tightly, it is necessary to check the signal quality. To do this, use a device for tuning a satellite dish; you can do the tuning without it, with your own hands.

Related article:

In the article we will look at the application features, types of devices, secrets of selection and installation.

How to set up a satellite dish yourself: checking the satellite signal

When the antenna is mounted on the roof, all that remains is to connect the cable to the receiver and make the settings, but it is at this stage that the question arises of the correct direction of the dish on the roof.

You can constantly go down and check the signal on the receiver, or lift a portable TV onto the roof and check it on it. But there is a much simpler option: buy a special device to check the satellite signal without leaving the antenna itself.

If you decide to save money, let's look at how to set up a satellite dish without a device yourself:

• Connect the power cable (220W) to the plate.
• Next install the receiver that was included in the kit.
• Bring a portable TV to the inspection site.
• Connect everything according to the diagram and check by adjusting the direction of the plate.

If you don’t want to drag everything upstairs, then it’s still worth buying a device, while the tuner and TV will remain in their places. Data about the incoming signal will be displayed on the device screen. In this case, the power for this equipment comes from the receiver, so all that remains is to adjust the direction of the plate itself.

The most simple options a scale is displayed on the screen and served sound signals, more expensive ones - will display the frequency and range, which will allow you to quickly adjust the direction of the antenna.

Connecting and setting up the satellite dish tuner yourself

Before moving on to the answer to the question of how to set up channels on a satellite dish, you should connect the tuner to the TV yourself. To do this, you can use several options from manufacturers.

Table 1. Connecting the tuner to the TV yourself

In what way	Image
Connect using a standard HDMI cable, the necessary connector is available in almost all modern TVs.
Sometimes the kit may include a scart-scart cable (comb).
One of the most common ways to connect a tuner and TV is with tulips. Insert by color into the corresponding connectors on the back or front of the TV.
Another version of tulips Y, Pb, Pr can also be found in the configuration.
The last option is to connect via coaxial cable using RF OUT.

Having connected the equipment and turned it on to the network, go directly to setting up channels on the TV. To do this, first press the menu button on the tuner remote control. If nothing happens on the TV screen, something is connected incorrectly or not included in the network.

The article covers the issues of assembling, setting up and adjusting the Tricolor antenna with your own hands.

Having purchased a Tricolor antenna, everyone can configure it independently, subject to certain rules.

Kit for installing Tricolor satellite TV.

To work you will need:

To secure the base, you need to select fasteners. It should be fixed to a wooden surface using plumbing caps. In other situations, 10x100 anchor bolts are suitable.

The cable used to connect the antenna and the TV must contain a thick copper core and double braid. The cable length is no more than 100 m. If it is necessary to lay more than this length, then signal amplifiers are additionally located.

Choosing a location to install the antenna

Since the dish receives a signal from the satellite, the main criteria when choosing a location are:

Following the criteria will ensure that errors are avoided when working independently.

Antenna assembly

The equipment comes with assembly instructions, following which you can complete everything quickly. The structure for receiving the signal is formed by the elements:

Assembly diagram:

Assembly work has been completed.

Antenna adjustment

The adjustment should be carried out in good weather (no snowfall, rain, dense clouds). This stage involves creating a certain position of the equipment for broadcast clarity. They depend on the elevation angle and azimuth angle. To calculate the elevation angle, you should carry out horizontal line from installed plate in the direction of the satellite and measure the angle formed by this line and the signal reception line (the vertical angle formed by turning the mirror up and down).

Azimuth is the angle of the horizontal plane between the direction line to the north and the direction line from the dish to the satellite (the horizontal angle corresponding to the left-right rotation of the dish).

There is a table showing the elevation and azimuth angle for different cities. If the dish is not installed in a city, then you need to focus on a nearby city.

The azimuth angle is set using a compass. To determine the elevation angle, you can use a protractor and a plumb line. The plumb line is located at the zero point of the protractor and serves as a conventional horizon line. The required angle size is indicated on the protractor scale.

Different manufacturers design the antenna to suit different angle tilt Supral's products are characterized by a precise vertical position of the antenna at an angle of 26.5°. When placing equipment with such an angle in Moscow or Kaliningrad, there is no need to change the elevation angle. For other cities, it will be necessary to tilt the structure forward or backward so that the angle corresponds to the required value.

Installation of a television connector

The television connector is connected to the converter in accordance with the diagram:

In relation to the used antenna wire There are two ways to install the receiver to the TV:

• High-frequency antenna cable (HF) - plugs into the antenna socket on the TV and into the “RF Out” input hole of the receiver. After turning on, the combination “BOOT” and the channel number appears on the television screen. When you turn on the channel search function, a “No Signal” notification appears, which means normal functioning receiver
• Low frequency cable with connector (LF) - similar to HF. When connected, “BOOT” appears on the television screen. Afterwards, you need to press the “A/B” button on the remote control surface of the receiver. As a result, the “No Signal” notification should light up. The appearance of other information indicates that the equipment was assembled incorrectly.

After these steps, you can start setting up channels.

Setting the TV signal level

Tuning must be done by changing the position of the antenna and monitoring the signal level on the television screen. First open the “Antenna Installation” menu:

After displaying the two scales “Signal” and “Quality”, the equipment location should be adjusted:

Look at the TV, analyzing the content of the scales:

Preliminary tuning ends with fine tuning when, when changing the position of the plate left-right and up-down, both scales are filled at 80%. Such values ​​will help transmit an accurate signal in bad weather (rain, snowfall, cloudiness).

After fine-tuning the TV display, you should firmly fix the equipment on the street and exit the installation menu by pressing “Exit” twice on the remote control.

Receiver registration

Receiving a television picture occurs after registering the equipment. Registration is carried out in one of the following ways:

• On the Tricolor website;
• At a sales office or an authorized center (usually after purchase at specialized points of sale, the receiver is registered);
• Through the department technical support, when you have a subscription agreement in hand.

When registering, the user must indicate the receiver model, unique number for identification (ID), personal data. You can see the model name on the front panel of the equipment.

The identification number is a sequence of 10-12 digits. The number can be found on the packaging sticker or on the receiver body sticker. There is no inscription on some packages and cases, so you need to go to the receiver menu. When clicking on the “Status” submenu, the user will see the ID.

To conclude an agreement, it is required to provide the user’s personal data (full name, passport, date of birth, place of installation, contact information).

Registration actions end with confirmation of equipment by telephone conversation with the Tricolor service. You must indicate the purpose of the appeal, full name, identification number.

Questions from subscribers

“Do I need a special device to configure satellite dishes?»

A DIY tool is not required, but it can make finding a satellite signal easier.

“What parameters should I use to set up a satellite dish?”

Azimuth and elevation.

Telekarta TV is one of the most popular providers satellite communications on the territory of Russia. But not all users want to pay money to a company representative who will configure the Telekart satellite dish. Why not try this procedure yourself? But for an ordinary person this is difficult, because he does not have special equipment, and his experience is very doubtful.

But if the equipment was purchased, and there is no representative office of the company nearby, because there is nowhere to call a specialist, you will have to figure it out on your own. On Telecard devices this is not so difficult, the main thing is not to break anything in the process. In addition, it is important to carry out several preparatory procedures. Although it would have been better to do them before buying the equipment.

Preparing for installation

First of all, we will check whether the Telecard will be accepted in the place we need, and only after that we will go to buy satellite dish. On the company's official website you can see from which satellite the broadcast is taking place. But we will indicate this data ourselves - the provider operates from the American satellite Intelsat-15 in geostationary orbit - 85.15° East.

Among ordinary, untrained users, there is an opinion that it is almost impossible to independently install and configure a satellite system. In fact, this is not true at all. Below - simple instructions for “dummies”, on how to independently install and configure a satellite dish without calculations, satellite finders and other attributes of professionals. If you are a professional installer, then the material below is unlikely to be of interest to you.

Although any information can now be found on the Internet, I still tried to collect all the basic information I received on one page - for convenience. I’ll just try to tell you in my own words and with pictures how I installed and configured the satellite system. I’ll say right away that the installation of ONLY an offset fixed antenna is being considered, and not a direct focus or motorized one. And yet, it is possible that no matter how hard you try, you may not be able to install and configure the antenna yourself. Then you will have to invite a professional installer. It’s hard for me to imagine how this could be, but I’ve seen people on the forums struggling for a couple of days in useless attempts to set up the antenna. In other cases, by independently selecting components and installing it yourself, you can save some, sometimes considerable, amount. Besides everything else, I personally was just interested in installing everything myself. What is the difference between installing and configuring the system “by eye” and professional installation? Almost nothing. With the exception of a more accurate initial calculation (which saves significant time), the mounting system and the principle of antenna tuning are the same.

Warning: All work related to heights and electricity is life-threatening!!! If anything causes the slightest concern, do not take risks, trust the professionals!!! Self-installation you produce at your own peril and risk!!! In any case, remember about safety precautions and that all dangerous work at height is carried out only by professionals with proven safety equipment!!!

List of basic concepts

TV satellite- a spacecraft located in geostationary orbit of the Earth and sending television signal to a certain territory of the Earth via a transponder. All satellites are located in the equatorial plane, so they are at the same latitude, but differ in longitude. In addition to the name, they also have a longitude designation. For example, Amos 4W means that the satellite is called Amos and is located at 4 degrees west longitude (W is West). Hotbird 13E is a satellite of Hotbird, located at 13 degrees east longitude (E is East). Based on the fact that satellites are “fixed” at certain points in orbit, they also have certain coverage areas of the Earth.

Transponder– a transceiver located on the satellite. It is characterized by the width and direction of the sent beam and the broadcast frequency. Broadcasting is carried out in two main bands - C-Band and Ku-Band. Mostly American and Russian satellites broadcast in the C band (4 GHz), and European satellites broadcast in the Ku band (10.700-12.750 GHz). Broadcasting is carried out in linear or circular polarization. Which in turn differ into vertical (V) and horizontal (H) for linear polarization and left (L) and right (R) for circular polarization. When they say “signal from transponder 11766H”, they mean a transponder broadcasting at a frequency of 11766 MHz with a horizontal
polarization. There are from several to dozens of transponders on a satellite
things.

Satellite dish– the main element of the subscriber’s satellite system for receiving a signal from the satellite. To put it in simple words, the antenna “collects” the weak reflected satellite signal over its entire surface and focuses it to a specific point at which the converter is installed. The most common antennas are direct focus and offset. Direct focus ones are a parabolic mirror with a focus at the geometric center, while offset ones have a shifted focus (below the geometric center of the antenna). Accordingly, the converter of a direct-focus antenna is installed in the center, near
offset - shifted to the bottom. Most common in ordinary users got exactly offset antennas. They are cheap, easy to install and configure. Antennas are produced in various diameters and from various materials. The material is usually either aluminum alloy or steel. There are non-rotating antennas (rigidly fixed) and antennas with an actuator (motor suspension). The motorized suspension rotates the antenna at specified angles and allows you to receive signals from a huge number of satellites in the field of view. Setting up the latter is not very easy for a beginner. The antenna size is selected individually, depending on the signal strength needed to view the satellite. The antenna diameter must be selected with some margin, since precipitation (heavy rain, snow) creates significant interference with the satellite signal. This is especially true for the Ku-band. But there is no need to go to extremes - if an antenna with a diameter of 0.9 m is enough, absolutely
it is not necessary to buy a 1.5m antenna - it weighs more and its area is larger
more exposed to wind.

Converter– a device designed to receive a satellite signal reflected from an antenna and installed on a corresponding holder at the antenna focus. The main purpose of the converter is to convert the frequency of the received satellite signal (for example, for the Ku-band it is from 10.7 to 12.75 GHz) to an intermediate one (900 - 2150 MHz), at which the attenuation of the signal transmitted in the cable will be less. Since the received satellite signal power is very low, the second important task converter - amplify it to an acceptable level for the receiving path of the receiver. Since any converter introduces its own level of noise into the signal, but is also low-noise, it is also called LNB (Low Noise Block). Converters can be designed to operate in linear or circular polarization and are selected depending on which polarization the satellite is broadcasting in (for example, popular NTV+ packages are broadcast in circular polarization and a universal linear polarization converter, despite the name “universal”, is not suitable for reception). If the converter is universal, it switches to the specified polarization with a voltage of 13/18 V supplied by the receiver. 13 V - vertical polarization, 18 V - horizontal. One more nuance: converters come with 1 output, 2 outputs, 4 outputs, 8 outputs. Based on how many independent viewing points will be installed, a converter with the appropriate number of outputs must be installed, since all converter outputs are independent.

Multifeed– holder for additional converter. Since the satellites are located in geostationary orbit relatively close to each other (according to
certain standards), it is possible to simultaneously receive a signal on one antenna using a multifeed from several nearby satellites. A classic example is 3 satellites (Hotbird 13E, Sisius 4.8E, Amos 4W) received on 1 fixed antenna. As a rule, a converter is installed on the main (focal) antenna holder, configured for Sisius 4.8E, on the 1st multifeed converter for Hotbird 13E, and on the 2nd multifeed converter for Amos 4W.

Disek (DiseqC) is a device that switches a signal from several converters to 1 cable. Since the receiver can only receive a signal from one satellite at a time, the converter corresponding to this satellite must be connected to the receiver. This is exactly what the disek does - it connects to the receiver
necessary in at the moment converter There are different discs, designed to work according to a specific protocol. The DiseqC 1.0 protocol is unidirectional and is used when the number of converters is no more than 4. DiseqC 2.0 is the same, only bidirectional and compatible with 1.0. DiseqC 1.1 is used to connect more converters. Protocol 1.2 is used to control the positioner.

A coaxial cable is connected to the inputs and output of the disk through F-connectors.
I think there is no need to talk about connectors and cables - everything is clear here. However, the cable must have characteristic impedance 75 Ohm, made of high-quality materials that can withstand severe temperature changes and have a good shielding braid. The material of the core is steel, copper, copper-plated steel - it’s clear that it’s unlikely to work out better.

Antenna bracket– a simple metal holder that is attached to the wall (usually) and to which the antenna is attached. It must be made as securely as possible so that the wind does not tear off the antenna.

Satellite receiver– a device that receives a satellite signal from a converter and outputs it to the TV in the form of a familiar picture with sound Smile Choosing a receiver is the most difficult task when choosing a satellite system.
Receivers come in both open uncoded channels (FTA) and encoded ones, with card readers, with slots for additional decoding modules, with an emulator, with various videos outputs, with hard drive and other useful and not so useful functions. Here, as they say, there is something for every preference and every budget. There is one important point: today satellite broadcasting in HD format is being actively put into operation (video high resolution) and MPEG4. Receivers that support these formats are usually much more expensive than regular ones. Therefore, before purchasing a satellite system, you need to decide what content you will watch and what kind of receiver you need for this. Cheap receivers are usually no different high quality image and sound, great functionality and fast channel switching. Although there are exceptions. A separate nuance is the emulator in the receiver. As its name suggests, the emulator is designed to software emulate the operation of a smart card. What is this for? Huge number channels from different satellites are protected by encodings. There are different encodings - Viaccess, Seca, Irdeto, Nagravision, Biss, etc. For example, some package of channels in Biss encoding is broadcast and you want to watch it (the antenna is tuned to
desired satellite), but you do not have a smart card. Then look for a software emulator in your receiver (usually this is listed in undocumented capabilities) and turn it on. Enter your keys channel access if everything is ok, watch it. As a rule, emulators in modern receivers support several encodings. Another application of the emulator is a phenomenon popularly called “sharing” or “card sharing”. Yes, and also, when choosing a receiver, you should pay attention to the availability and regularity of the output software. In other words, firmware. New firmware, as a rule, removes errors that occur, adds parameters for satellites, transponders, new codes for the emulator, etc.

Selection of components

To begin with, for some time I studied the Internet to familiarize myself with the issue (since I was a complete ignoramus and the concept of what a disc or transponder was was very illusory, but I still wanted to watch satellite TV). I decided what content and from which satellites I want to watch (at the end of this article you can look at the lists of the most popular channels in our area and some links), what is received in my region and what antenna diameter, and also got acquainted with the advice of experienced , including great help Vladbel helped me, for which special thanks to him Smile In the end, for
The following satellites were selected: Amos 4W, Sirius 4.8E, Hotbird 13E for one antenna 0.95m and Eutelsat W4 36E for 0.85m. I chose http://www.agsat.com.ua/ as a Kyiv store - everything is in one place and, among other things, they are one of the sellers of original equipment of the same brand recommended by the Openbox manufacturer, and my soul was in Openbox Smile By the way, both receivers I bought in Agsat and receivers bought there for my friends were ALREADY flashed with lists of satellites and lists
favorite channels from popular satellites 4W+5E(4.8E)+13E, and this concerned not only Openboxes. Convenient for those who don’t want to bother too much with filling in favorites.

What was purchased and what were the selection criteria:

• Offset antenna 0.95m, produced in Kharkov. Painted steel. For receiving signals from Amos 4W, Sirius 4.8E, Hotbird 13E.
• Offset antenna 0.85m, produced in Kharkov. Painted steel. To receive a signal from Eutelsat W4 36E.
• Receiver Openbox X-810. Firstly, Openbox has the most powerful technical
  support (new firmware comes out almost every couple of weeks),
  secondly, excellent picture quality, thirdly, built-in emulator,
  fourthly, support for LanComBox (for fans of “sharing”Smile.
• Three universal linear polarization converters SINGLE TITANIUM TSX 0.2dB. Declared low noise level.
• One circular polarization converter SINGLE Circular INVERTO IDLP-40SCIRCL for Eutelsat W4 36E (NTV+).
• Two multifeeds.
• Two antenna brackets.
• Disc signal switch from 4 converters into 1 cable connected to the receiver.
• Coaxial antenna cable, characteristic impedance 75 Ohm, coil 100m.
• 10 antenna screw-on F-connectors.
• 6 anchor bolts "under the nut" 8x72, washers, nuts and lock washers.
• Plastic self-tightening ties.
• Steel cable with clamps for fastening to it antenna cable and lowering him from the roof.
• Plastic box for disc.
• Lanсombox is a device for sharing (anyone who wants can search for the term “card sharing” with any search engine)Smile.

The budget for all this stuff was 1346 hryvnia or ~$270.

Installation

The antenna must be installed in the line of sight to the south. Direct means that there should be no obstacles in front of the antenna in the form of houses, trees, etc. It is for this reason that the most optimal places to install antennas are balconies and roofs. Since my windows are on the ground floor and are not directed far from the south, it was decided to install the antennas on the roof. Fortunately, the roof of my typical panel 9-story building is flat, which makes installation easier (if there is no free access to the antenna with more than 1 converter after installing it on the bracket, see below *). What did I need on the roof besides the antennas and their mounts:

• Hammer with drills with pobedit tips. The diameter of the drill is chosen slightly smaller than the diameter of the anchor bolt. Much less is not possible - the anchor will not fit into the wall. Any more - it will “lobble” and it won’t really be possible to tighten it.
• Phillips screwdriver.
• Socket wrench 10.
• Socket wrench 13.
• Adjustable wrench.
• Hammer.
• Paper cutter (for stripping cables for connectors).
• Wire cutters.
• Receiver with remote control.
• Small TV.
• 220V with extension cord for 3 sockets.

The most interesting questions are where to point the antennas? How to determine the direction? How to set up antennas without a satellite finder (a device for setting up satellite dishes costs from $400)? Since in my case it was decided to make the adjustment “by eye”, I decided to determine the direction logically simply - I just looked at where the antennas on the neighboring roof were pointing and
decided to turn mine in the same direction/

An antenna with 3 converters - definitely Sirius, Hotbird, Amos - we have a lot of these and installers mainly install them. Looking at the neighboring houses, you can find many of them and they are all directed in the same direction. That is why I had no doubts. To the left of it with one converter - probably NTVshnaya - we also have enough of those. If you don’t have such guidelines, then the situation is worse. You need to determine the south direction and try to point the antenna there. Once again, an indispensable condition is that in front of the antenna there should under no circumstances be any visible obstacles in the direction of the satellite!!! Among other things, in a situation where the antenna is installed under someone’s balconies or canopies, make sure that
streams of water or snow from the top visor do not fall directly on your antenna. This does not bode well for the reception.

It is to this elevator shaft that I decided to attach my antennas:

It’s unsightly, of course, on the roof, but this is not a European-quality renovation of the apartment Smile Defined
installation location, marked the holes for the brackets, drilled them with a hammer drill, hammered the anchors inside and secured the brackets (I did not photograph the further steps, so almost all photos will be from already installed systems). I won’t go into detail about fixing the brackets; I think that everything is clear about this, the work is mechanical. Still, if someone doesn’t know what an anchor bolt is, I’ll show you what it looks like:

It consists of a glass and a bolt located inside it. The bolt has a thread for a nut on one side and a thickening cone on the other. Exactly as in the figure, from left to right, carefully, so as not to damage the thread under the nut, it is driven into the drilled hole.

I recommend loosening the nut, but not unscrewing it completely, otherwise the bolt risks completely falling inside the hole, and then you won’t be able to get it out. The same applies to putting the bracket on the bolts (the nuts will still have to be removed) - make sure that the bolts do not fall inside the glass, I recommend that before putting the bracket on, pull them towards you as much as possible or tighten them a little with a nut - so that the cone fits a little into the glass and the bolts do not wobble . The glass should be flush with the wall, and the thread with the nut, respectively, should be outside the hole.

The principle of operation of an anchor bolt is as follows: when the nut begins to be tightened with a wrench, it pulls the bolt inside the glass outward due to the thread. The cone located at the end of the bolt enters the glass and expands it as much as possible inside the hole. As a result, tearing such a bolt out of the wall is far from a trivial task. That is why it is recommended to hang the bracket on self-wedging anchor bolts, and not on screws with plastic dowels.

However, the choice of fastening is a personal matter for everyone. The only thing is, if you still choose anchors, look at their quality, in particular the material and thickness of the glass. Because the anchors are made too flimsily and will hold accordingly.

When installing on a balcony, you can even drill through the wall and thread threaded rods of the appropriate length through it (these are sold in stores). They are secured on both sides with nuts.

Back to the installation.

The first was to set up an antenna with 3 converters for Sirius, Hotbird, Amos, the second was for Eutelsat 36E. At first the brackets were screwed onto screw anchor bolts, later I changed them to nut ones. The screw ones turned out to be unreliable. The photo shows the first unsuccessful attempts in the form of remaining holes. By that time, the brackets were also repainted to enhance the original paint:

In the photo above, the antenna is already assembled, with converters, cable, etc. Initially, the antenna was simply assembled, hung on a bracket, and the converters and cable were attached only later. A thin metal cable - I just had extra one and I threaded it through the antenna mount and screwed it to the elevator shaft post in case the wind would tear out the anchors, so that the antenna would not dive from the roof Smile In fact, this is almost impossible, but so be it - That's what I thought. To adjust the antenna in the vertical and horizontal planes, you need to tighten the mount so that the antenna does not change its tilt on its own, but at the same time it can be moved in the planes with some effort. These are the nuts before final settings not much
tighten:

An unclamped left screw allows you to adjust the antenna in the vertical plane, 2
without clamping the right ones, rotate the antenna relative to the bracket in the horizontal plane.

Next, both multifeeds are put on the central holder of the antenna converter, converters are inserted into all holders, and everything is tightened so that the converters in the multifeeds can be turned with some effort in all
planes (cables to converters are connected later). The photo below shows what multifeeds are and how they are attached:

After this, the setup process begins. A piece of cable a couple of meters long is screwed to the central converter using an F-connector, the second end of the cable is screwed to the receiver. From some site I have pictures of what an F-connector is and how to screw it onto a cable correctly.

The receiver is connected to the TV, only after that the 220V power is turned on. An important point - when screwing the F-connector onto the cable, you must carefully ensure that the thin conductors of the cable shielding do not short-circuit with the central core, otherwise the receiver can be damaged!!!

I turn on the TV, receiver, go to the Installation-Search for channels menu. In the list of satellites on the left, I select Sirius 2/Ku 4.8E - it is to this satellite that the rigidly fixed central converter will be configured. From the menu on the right I select:

• LNBP: On(turn on converter power)
• LNBP Type: Universal(universal type of converter, according to the ones I purchased)
• LNBP Freq: 10600/9750(indicated on converters)
• 22Khz: Auto(I leave the signal to switch the disk)
• DISEqC: None(I’m leaving it this way, since the signal is connected directly for now, and not through a disk)

Next yellow button remote control, I go to the Transponder submenu and select the transponder on which I will search for a signal (I advise you to write out in advance several transponders selected from satellites with different polarizations and REALLY WORKING free channels(FTA). The list can be found at the links below.

For example, in my case, to begin with, it will be a 11766H transponder, broadcasting at a frequency of 11766 MHz with horizontal polarization. For convenience, the signal quality can be displayed on full screen Info button. I will be guided by the lower “Quality” scale:

What do we see in this photo? A bleak picture, signal quality - 0%! Actually, what should you expect? After all, the antenna is still “looking” towards the satellite very approximately.

Next comes the most difficult moment, which requires a lot of endurance - this is adjusting the antenna in planes. Why is a shutter speed necessary - literally a few millimeters, and there will be no signal. It’s not that it will be bad, but it won’t exist at all! The setup is as follows - you need to install the antenna in some vertical position, in my position it was approximately like this:

After this, you need to very, very smoothly rotate the antenna in the horizontal direction and at the same time carefully look at the quality scale, first in one direction, and if the scale does not change from 0, then in the other. When it is discovered that the quality scale has increased to at least 10-15, this is already the first success, you can stop and take a breath. If it is not possible to find a signal in the entire horizontal plane, you need to slightly change the vertical angle of the antenna and begin moving again in the horizontal plane until the signal appears. When at least some signal is found: now you need to try to move the antenna even more smoothly left and right and achieve the maximum level of signal quality. Having achieved this, you need to try to achieve an even larger signal very smooth movement antennas up and down. After this you can try
slightly rotate the converter around its axis in the holder (there are marks on the converter for this purpose):

The maximum signal can be achieved ONLY by combining all these adjustments. Another nuance - if you cannot find a signal under any conditions, and you have double-checked everything, including the receiver settings, 100 times, it makes sense to try another converter, perhaps this one is faulty. I get the maximum signal level that I can get:

It would seem that you can calm down and tighten all the adjustment screws? No matter how
So! After all, the adjustment was made for a transponder broadcasting in horizontal polarization (there is a letter H in the picture at the end of the 2nd term), but you also need to configure some transponder in vertical (V) polarization:

In my case, turning the converter in the holder counterclockwise helped achieve best quality signal in vertical polarization.

After this, you can scan the transponders (look in the documentation with your
receiver, how to do this) and visually see whether the channels are received and whether they correspond to the selected satellite:

When signals in horizontal and vertical polarizations are at their maximum
What can be pulled out, it is necessary to tighten all the adjusting nuts that are not fully tightened. And there is one unpleasant moment - when you tighten the nut, the antenna slightly changes its direction, and the signal quality can noticeably decrease! So you also need to tighten it very carefully. Everything, the antenna and the first converter are configured. I turn off the receiver from the outlet, wind the cable from the central converter to the converter on the left (to the one on the multifeed, if you look at the antenna
front), turn on everything, select Hotbird 13E in the menu, the same menu settings on the right as for Sirius, select a working transponder and try to set the maximum signal quality. Only this time I’m not adjusting the antenna, but the converter itself on the multifeed. It can move in all planes relative to the antenna focus - left, right, up, down, forward, backward:

All nuts are tightened when the signal is maximum. Don't forget about checking
both polarizations. I scan Hotbird's transponders and visually check some free channels.

I turn everything off again, twist the cable to the 3rd converter, turn everything on, select Amos 4w and configure it. Everything is the same. After this, the setup of the first antenna can be considered complete.

Second antenna. Which I am going to configure on Eutelsat W4 36E (NTV+). It’s simpler here - there’s only one converter. Moreover, since it is circularly polarized, it is not very important how it will be deployed inside the holder. It is best to have the cable facing down so that sediment does not accumulate on it:

Accordingly, you need to adjust the antenna in the horizontal and vertical planes. I turn everything off and reconnect the cable to this converter. The settings according to the purchased converter are as follows:

I set up the second antenna, check the antenna in both polarizations on different
transponders. Since the converter is designed for circular polarization, are checked not for H and V, but for L and R (left and right).

That's it. You can turn everything off. Now you need to switch the signal through the disk.

My disc has 1 output to the receiver, designated REC, and 4 inputs for
converters called 1,2,3,4. I connect the converters like this:

1. Sirius
2. Hotbird
3. Eutelsat

The connection is simple - a segment is connected to each converter
cable connected to the corresponding disk input. If you install one antenna with 1 converter, then you don’t need a disc. If there is one antenna for 2 converters and the disk has 2 free ports, it’s okay. The disk is installed not far from the antennas and, preferably, is placed in a waterproof box (I bought it at an electrical goods store) so that precipitation does not fall on it:

Holes for ventilation are desirable in the bottom of the disc box. Acute
Cable bend angles are not allowed! The F-connectors on the converters are closed either with the included caps or with heat-shrinkable tubing:

By the way, in the above photo you can see the distances between the converters and their angles of inclination. On the right is the antenna aimed at Eutelsat W4.

I configure the disk drive protocol (in my case 1.0) and the distribution of converters according to the inputs (ports) of the disk drive in the receiver menu:

The pictures show which converters are assigned to which inputs (ports) of the disk (to which satellite). 0/12V: On only for LanComBox. If you don’t have it, then you don’t need to turn on 12V. I save the changes and check if all the disk inputs are working (that is, all configured satellites have a signal).

Someone may have a question: “why not immediately connect all the converters to the disk, register all the inputs and configure the antennas?” The answer is simple - if the disk is really not working, you will waste a LOT of time and nerves trying to create a signal that cannot be found by definition. Among other things, without a disc you can quickly determine whether the converter you bought is working.

I tighten the cables with ties so that nothing dangles. Remains not a stretch
attach the cable to the cable, lower the cable down and tighten it. Install cable in the apartment, connect the receiver, TV and watch satellite TV Smile

Here's what I ended up with on the roof:

*- If there is no access to the antenna after installing it on the bracket:

when there is only one converter on the antenna, everything is clear, nothing complicated - it is fixed
rigidly on the antenna, the antenna is hung out of the window (or somewhere else) on a bracket, and adjusted in the vertical and horizontal planes all from the same window (return to the warning at the beginning of the instructions!!!). What should you do if you need to configure 1 additional converter (or more) on the multifeed? At the dacha, I did this: I screwed the bracket to an old high cabinet, put the assembled antenna on it, placed the whole structure in front of a wide open window and set it up that way. By the way, a curious moment - with the first switching on, with approximate antenna tilts, without additional settings, I received a quality level on Sirius of more than 70%! I couldn’t believe my eyes. In a word, I set up all 3 converters in this form, carefully clamped everything, hung the bracket outside the window and hung the antenna with the already configured converters on it. All that remains is to adjust it in planes.

An important point when installing satellite antennas at high altitude: in addition to safety precautions and insuring yourself, first of all, when hanging the antenna on a bracket or mast, always protect the antenna. Just imagine
imagine what an antenna from above could do to the head of a random passer-by or to the body of an expensive BMW.

Another thing - many people recommend grounding antennas installed on the roof,
however, some installers are vehemently opposed to this. I'm inclined to conclude that grounding the antenna still won't hurt.

If you decide to install a kit for yourself satellite equipment, then we will tell you how to install a satellite dish and how to configure satellite receiver. This article will consist of the following blocks:

More and more users are abandoning cable television and preferring satellite television. This is quite logical, since cable TV subscribers are not always satisfied with the list cable channels. In addition, large-format films are now in great demand. Full TVs HD and by design, on such TVs, you need to watch HD high-definition television, and not analog cable, the picture quality of which, to put it mildly, does not match. Yes, the issue can be solved by connecting digital cable television, but again, the list of channels will be significantly reduced compared to what can be watched through a satellite dish, and in addition, the cost of a cable receiver is almost equal to the cost of a satellite one. If we talk about the private sector and suburban areas, then satellite television is the only option for viewing a wide range of channels.

Selecting a satellite

First of all, before installing a satellite dish, you must choose an operator satellite television, or rather the satellite to which the antenna will be directed. For beginners, we will cover this issue in more detail.

So, the essence of satellite television is that the signal from certain TV channels is sent to a satellite located in space, and it is from this satellite that each subscriber receives the signal to their satellite dish. The signal received by the antenna is sent to the tuner (receiver), where the signal is processed, and for some channels decoded, and then sent in “ready” form directly to the TV. We will look at the very structure of the set of satellite equipment for receiving a satellite signal a little later, but now we are interested in the choice of satellite.

Today, both open and encrypted channels are broadcast from satellites. Channels can either be placed separately on the satellite or be part of a package of channels that belongs to the satellite operator. Most satellite channels are encoded so that subscribers pay money to view them. For ease of viewing large quantity channels from one satellite, and for single payment For viewing them, there are satellite operators. Broadcasting Russian-language channels carried out from different satellites that are in different positions. To receive a signal from a satellite, your antenna must be clearly aimed at the selected satellite. If the satellites you choose are close to each other, then most likely you will be able to receive a signal from both satellites on one antenna.

Thus, if you want to watch up to 30 free Russian-language channels, then for this we advise you to point your satellite dish at the YAMAL 201 satellite. Also, there are other satellites with channels open for viewing, but they are not as full as Yamal. As for satellite television operators, this is: the most popular operator Tricolor-TV, the number of subscribers of which is growing at an intensive pace, it is also necessary to mention this satellite operator which includes the largest list of channels - NTV-Plus and, of course, the operator Raduga-TV. You can get acquainted with the list of channels and the cost of packages of these operators on their official websites.

So, initially you choose the type satellite broadcasting: free or paid. To select a satellite with free channels, use the Frocus.net service, to select paid packages– official websites of satellite TV operators. If you have a widescreen TV, keep in mind that some operators already broadcast in HD format.

Another nuance when choosing a satellite is the ability to point a satellite dish at it. If the windows of your apartment face a different direction from the satellite, or there is interference in front of the house in the form of trees or houses, then the antenna must be installed on the roof. If for some reason it is not possible to install an antenna on the roof, then you will have to choose another available satellite.

What is needed for satellite television

After you have determined which satellite you will receive the signal from, and whether it will open channels or it will be directly from the satellite TV operator, you can purchase equipment to receive the satellite signal.

The satellite equipment package includes

1. Receiver (tuner) is a device that receives, decodes and converts a signal for viewing on a TV.


2. Antenna (dish) - designed to receive a signal from a satellite; it is from the antenna itself that the satellite signal is reflected and sent to the convector.


3. Convector (head) - necessary for receiving the signal reflected from the antenna from the satellite, where the signal is converted and transmitted to the receiver.


4. A bracket is a metal structure that is attached to the wall, and then onto which the antenna itself is attached.


5. Cable is a television coaxial cable that connects the convector to the receiver.


6. DiSEq - if you will receive signals from several satellites on one receiver, then a disc is used to connect the convectors into one cable.


7. F-ki – connectors that are used to connect the cable to other satellite equipment.


8. The connecting cable between the receiver and the TV is tulips, SCART or HDMI cable.

Now we’ll tell you a few nuances about choosing equipment.

Receiver

We talked in detail about how to choose a satellite receiver in a separate article, so if you have not purchased one yet, we recommend reading this article.

Antenna

As for satellite dishes, the only thing you need to focus on when purchasing is its diameter. In order to receive a signal from most satellites, an antenna with a diameter of 90 cm is sufficient. If the antenna is planned to receive a signal from several satellites, then the diameter of the antenna depends on the degree distance of the satellites from each other.

Convector

The polarization of the convector depends on the satellite: circular or linear. For example, to receive a signal from the Eutelsat 36 satellite (Tricolor-TV and NTV-Plus for residents of the European part of Russia), you need a convector with circular polarization.

If you plan to watch satellite television on two televisions (TV and computer), then purchase a convector with two outputs to connect two receivers.

bracket

The bracket should be attached to three or four anchors. The length of the leg should be such that you can freely turn the antenna in the desired direction and it will not rest against the wall.

Multifeed

To mount several convectors on an antenna, use a multifeed.

DIY satellite dish installation

First of all, you need to assemble the satellite dish itself; this video will tell you how to do this in detail and clearly.

Before installing a satellite dish, you must know specifically where the antenna should be directed; for this, the Agsat.com.ua/satdirect service will help you. On the map, select the place where you plan to install the antenna by checking the box there, select the intended satellite in the side column and they will show you where to point the satellite dish. Before installing the antenna, we recommend checking the signal reception not by strengthening it, but by holding it in your hands. If the quality of the signal from the satellite reaches 70%, then we proceed to installing the antenna.

When the location is determined and checked, using a hammer drill we make holes for attaching the bracket to the wall with anchors. Choose the size of the anchors based on the wall material and the weight of the structure. After you have strengthened the bracket, we mount the antenna, but do not rush to tighten the nuts, since first we need to direct the antenna.

How to set up a satellite dish yourself

While the antenna is already on the bracket, we connect the television cable to it.

How to connect a satellite dish

To connect a satellite dish, you need to screw an F-piece onto the end of the cable. To do this, cut off the insulating layer of the television cable 1.5 cm from the edge, bend the screen braid in the opposite direction, cut off the foil screen (0.9-0.8 cm from the edge) that insulates the core of the cable and wind it onto the prepared end of the cable F- ku. If the cable core protrudes beyond the F level by more than 0.2 cm, then it is recommended to cut off the excess. We do the same with the second end of the cable. Then, connect the first end of the cable to the convector, and connect the second end to the receiver, at the very end of the installation, as indicated in the instructions. If you have several convectors, then first we connect the cables coming from the convectors to the disk drive, and directly from the disk drive one cable will go to the receiver.

So, when the antenna is fixed on the bracket and the cable is connected, we tune the antenna to the satellite. We direct the antenna according to the compass, and adjust it based on the signal level menu in the receiver. Another point when setting up the antenna is the required angle of inclination relative to the horizon; each satellite has its own angle.

When you have achieved a high-quality level of signal reception, firmly fix the nuts on the antenna and fasteners so that they do not unscrew due to wind and vibrations. Then we fix the cable so that it does not dangle anywhere. It is recommended to make a so-called cable loop immediately from the convector so that moisture flows down and does not flow along the cable.

How to set up a satellite dish tuner

You will find a detailed description of the tuner settings in the instructions for it. First, select the receiver's menu language and check its firmware version, comparing it with the latest official version. If latest firmware has significant changes and positive reviews users - it is better to reflash the receiver.

After this, you need to set the time, time zone, etc. in the channel search menu, select a satellite and enter the necessary settings for it (if you are using a disc, then set the number of the input to which the convector directed to this satellite is connected).

Then output information about the signal level - this is why information window and adjust the antenna. When the antenna is configured and the signal level is high, we scan the satellite. To open access to channels, insert an operator access card.