Who and why did not take part in testing. Classification of standard hard drives
- Change HDD on PS 4, PS4 Pro and PS4 Slim - easy
- The HDD connector allows the use of 2.5-inch models with a thickness of no more than 9.5 mm
- After replacing the disk guarantee period remains
- Upsizing Tip – Seagate FireCuda 2TB
- Advice for improving work - Western Digital Blue SSD, 1 TB
PS4 with SSD is a priority option
Basically, PS 4 consoles come standard with a 500 GB hard drive. Even in popular chains of electronics stores (Eldorado, Media Markt, MVideo, etc.) it is quite rare to find a set-top box with a larger disk. Moreover, most modern popular games on PS 4 require 25-55 GB of disk space. This means that many gamers not only have to regularly uninstall, but also often ask themselves the question of which favorite game to delete in order to download a new one. Considering this, a reasonable solution would be to think about replacing the “native” hard drive to a more voluminous one.
Of course, choosing a luxary upgrade or a cheaper option will depend on your financial capabilities. It is worth noting that PS 4 also supports simple SATA HDDs, however best result will be from the use of an SSD drive. The situation is similar with laptops and PCs.
Please note that there will be no increase in the number of fps (frames per second) in the gameplay. But the loading process will noticeably speed up, because solid-state drives require less time to access information. Although in reality everything will depend on your Play Station 4 model.
Let's pay attention to performance solid state drives for PS 4, PS 4 Slim and PS 4Pro. SATA controllers PS 4 and PS 4 Slim allow the use of the SATA -II standard, which allows them to work with a bandwidth of 3 Gbit/s (in theory - 375 MB/s). While PS 4 Pro supports SATA-III, resulting in bandwidth increases to 6 Gbps.
Today, the most affordable SSD drive is the Western Digital Blue 1TB. It will cost about 20 thousand rubles. The largest terabyte SSD drive is offered by Samsung. The SSD 850 EVO model provides 4TB of capacity. However, it will cost a lot - over 90 thousand rubles. Not everyone can afford such a purchase, so when choosing a model you should rely on your budget. It is advisable to purchase SSD drives with a capacity of 960 GB or more.
ModernizationPlay Station 4: budget version
The original choice would be a combined drive, in which there will be two simultaneously hard drives– regular and solid state. This hybrid is, in fact, a classic storage device. Its main difference is that it has an additional SSD cache, where the most used information will be backed up. As a result, the speed of access to this information will increase. The best option can be called Seagate FireCuda 2TB. This SSHD drive, by the way, is compatible with both PS 4 and PS 4 Pro. It will cost approximately 7 thousand rubles. Among consumers he collected a lot positive feedback in the ratio of cost and characteristics.
Most affordable option is a Seagate Backup Plus Slim HDD with 2 terabytes of memory. They used the Seagate Spinpoint M9T base as a basis. Besides low price(a little more than 5 thousand rubles), this model has one important advantage. The 9.5 mm thick disc allows it to be used on all varieties of PS 4.
A non-standard way could be an adapter designed to external drives. This device, via a SATA cable, will make it possible to connect even 3.5-inch models. An example is Nyko Data Bank. It replaces the top of the console's hard drive space. The adapter provides space to connect a variety of hard drives. Then they are connected to the console via SATA cables. At the same time, the space allocated for disk in Play Station 4 will be free. It seems possible to support 3.5-inch HDDs with capacities up to 3TB (CUH-11xx) and 8TB (CUH-12xx). Similar models for PS 4 Pro and PS 4 Slim have not yet been created.
Important note: after the release of firmware version 4.50, external USB drives can also be used. The first to do this was on Xbox One. Price for similar drives similar to a board for internal ones, however, in this case, memory for games is added, rather than simply replacing the hard drive.
It is almost impossible to identify all the technical and software shortcomings of the console at the stage of its development, since testing alone would take many years, and in this case the console would not have been released in 2013, when it was released, but only a few years later. Although there may be some problems after purchasing PS4, we will try to fix them with little loss.
Kassandra and Alexios can open a large number of new skills for combat and stealth in Assassin's Creed: Odyssey. They allow heroes to perform destructive and spectacular techniques in battle.
In 2010, Microsoft introduced a new accessory for the Xbox 360 to the public gamers. Kinect changed the way you interact with the console. The peripheral was the first system to support motion tracking technology that did not require any controllers. However, how does it work? In fact, the Kinect is not powered by magic. In this article we will tell you how the most unusual peripherals from Microsoft work.
Introduction
Upgrading a laptop allows you to extend its life, improve the quality of work on it and, of course, get the pleasure of having your old “toy” work better and faster. And modernization often turns out to be more profitable than buying a new model.
It should be noted that even small upgrades can significantly affect the subjective and objective performance of a laptop: doubling the memory capacity, installing a faster and more capacious hard drive. There are also, so to speak, cosmetic upgrades that do not improve performance - replacing the LCD display, for example. However, you should be aware that upgrading a laptop is more expensive than upgrading a desktop PC and in some cases is impossible.
Some key upgrades are completed quickly and provide excellent bang for your buck, right away. The best examples, in our opinion, are an upgrade of memory and hard drive: programs receive more hardware resources, so the performance increase is noticeable. One of our authors sat on an old laptop for 18 months Dell Latitude 3800. He then increased the memory from 256 to 512 MB, which made it possible to upgrade from Windows 2000 to Windows XP Professional. The new office suite worked perfectly on the laptop, so old car literally inhaled new life.
What can be updated and what cannot?
The design of laptops and components is often unique. Many parts are only suitable for certain models. Tiny dimensions force manufacturers to create their own solutions to fit all the necessary functions into the most compact laptop body. This in turn explains why many laptops are expensive and difficult to upgrade. Many components are intended only for a certain model, often they are even soldered to motherboards.
Therefore, unlike desktop computers with a modular design and expansion standards, laptops usually support their own component design standards, depending on the specific laptop model and manufacturer. With the exception of hard drives and memory modules, which are standard on almost all laptops, most models are very individual and selective in terms of hardware configurations. All this makes it difficult to replace laptop components. Sometimes it won't be possible to upgrade at all.
Therefore, it is better to immediately forget about many upgrades. Trying to find the right one motherboard to replace? Leave this idea. Even if you find something suitable, the board will probably be very expensive, and to replace the laptop you will have to send it to service center. Replacement will take both time and money. In other words, it is better to invest time and money in other components, even if they are not so critical, but which are justified.
The laptop power system should also only be examined and repaired by a specialist. Therefore, if something in the power system fails, the laptop must be taken to a service center.
Video cards are another difficult item, since many of them are simply soldered onto the laptop motherboard. Non-standard form factors and tight integration make modernization difficult, if not impossible. Therefore, if the laptop video card no longer satisfies you, it is time to think about buying a new laptop model.
There are the same problems with keyboards and touchpads, but they are not as critical, since many laptops allow you to connect external keyboards and mice. Of course, this does not seem like an upgrade, but it can improve the quality of work with a laptop. Although you will have to carry it with you additional accessories. Many of our authors are constantly paired with a laptop. optical mouse, because we are not used to working with a touchpad.
Some upgrade options
Upgrade software
Of course, when we think about upgrading a laptop, we mean, first of all, upgrading the hardware, namely: hard drive, memory, processor. But we should not forget that a simple software upgrade can breathe new life into a laptop. In particular, old ones are excellent replacement options. Windows versions, Windows 98 on XP Home or Windows NT/2000 on Windows XP Professional. Or perhaps you should upgrade to Windows Vista straight away.
The problem here is to satisfy minimum requirements to the processor, memory and disk space. By the way, you can install Linux.
Updating the BIOS is another useful operation, but it is best done only by experienced users. One wrong action and you will have to take the laptop to a service center. It doesn’t hurt to go to the manufacturer’s website and see what latest versions BIOSes are available and what you get as a result of the update. If the benefits are significant, then why not update the BIOS?
Memory upgrade
Perhaps the easiest and most effective way Upgrading a laptop means doubling the memory capacity. Such an operation will not improve the performance of the processor, for example, but in many cases you will get the illusion of a faster machine, since applications will switch and run faster. Memory upgrades may be limited by the following factors: number of free slots, type of slots, and maximum volume memory that the laptop can support. It should be remembered that laptop memory modules differ from desktop options. They are called SODIMM (small outline dual-inline memory module). In principle, you may not know about this, unless you are going to buy memory yourself in a store. Most module manufacturers' websites have automatic configurators that allow you to select compatible modules specifically for your laptop model.
Laptop manufacturers usually publish other useful information about the memory characteristics of your model. If you are planning an upgrade, you should find out how much memory your laptop supports. Even if you can buy another 512 MB module, will the laptop understand it? Will all capacity be available? It is better to get an answer to all these questions in advance.
The next thing to consider is what kind of memory is in the laptop, soldered or slotted. And which modules are best replaced to get the maximum increase in capacity. Some laptops have only one memory slot, and another memory module is simply soldered to the motherboard. On such laptops it will be possible to upgrade only the slot module. If your laptop has two memory slots, you may need to replace one or both of the existing modules with new ones to make the upgrade most effective. This is what happened, by the way, when upgrading the memory Dell laptop Latitude, which we mentioned just above. There, 128 MB modules had to be removed to free up slots for 256 MB modules. IN result Windows XP Professional received an available amount of RAM of 512 MB.
Hard drive upgrade
Upgrading the hard drive in terms of efficiency is in second place after random access memory. Here, again, you are unlikely to get a direct impact on performance, but you will increase the available capacity, which will extend the life of the laptop. But be careful: not all laptops recognize large hard drives. First check on the manufacturer's website to see if it is supported. specific model. And what is the maximum capacity hard drive that can be installed in a laptop.
For storage large volumes data, you can select an external hard drive, and internal storage leave for system data and some personal files. External hard drives come in different formats, with USB/FireWire interfaces or Cardbus/PCMCIA cards. And let's not forget the growing number of flash drives, including USB keys and memory cards. In general, there is enough space to expand the capacity.
Hard drive accessories.
If you are planning to upgrade your hard drive, you should remember that the hard drive accessories installed in your laptop vary for each model. Some use a special adapter that connects to the 44 pins of the laptop connector. The equipment should be removed from the laptop, unscrew the old hard drive and install a new one.
Hard drives also differ in spindle rotation speed (rpm, RPM), which is one of the performance criteria. Older hard drives spin at 4,200 rpm, which is barely fast enough to play real-time HD media streams. Today, the most common speed is 5,400 rpm. Finally, the highest-performance models operate at 7,200 rpm. Today, two types of interfaces are used for mobile hard drives: the time-tested Parallel ATA (PATA) and the new and faster serial Serial ATA (SATA). Chances are good that a laptop that was released more than two years ago uses PATA.
Another one key feature- hard drive form factor. Today, mobile hard drives of 1.8" format have appeared, while most old (and new) laptops use 2.5" hard drives. To complicate matters, these hard drives can be 9.5mm or 12mm tall, and a tall drive won't fit in all bays. In a laptop, by the way, it may be possible to connect a second hard drive through a modular bay, into which an optical drive CD, DVD ROM or extra battery. That is, you can add a second hard drive to the laptop while removing the optical drive (for some, this feature will be useful, for others it will create additional difficulties).
Hard drive for Dell modular bay.
Not long ago, Hitachi released an interesting solution that allows you to replace the old hard drive, and then connect it through a snap-in as a second external drive.
When SSDs appeared, everyone vied with each other to say that a little more, a little more, and new class drives will become radically cheaper, after which they will send traditional hard disks to the dustbin of history.
But no matter how much cheaper SSDs become, they still lose out to HDDs by a huge margin in terms of price per gigabyte. In addition, competition with SSDs and technological progress in general have made hard drives much more resistant to external influences. Shocks, overheating and even power surges - to all this modern models are much calmer than their counterparts ten years ago. And there’s nothing to say about the models that were sold 20 years ago. I remember well how I ruined a 270 megabyte hard drive only because the metal case cover fell off the stand during operation and slammed shut. There was no impact on the drive itself, but the shock was enough for it to “crumble,” begin to lose data, and after a short time die completely.
We have to thank the mobile revolution for the increased reliability of storage devices. While developing HDDs for laptops, where bumps, kicks and overheating are normal, engineers came up with a lot of different things, and then transferred the developments to models for stationary solutions. Of course, modern HDDs are also mortal. Moreover, despite advanced self-diagnosis tools, people die suddenly. But on average, it is much more difficult to destroy a modern hard drive than it was ten years ago. And even five.
Ultramobile devices - tablets, smartphones and even ultrabooks - do not use hard drives. But this is compensated by the emergence of new classes of devices - home media recorders and smart network drives(NAS). Also a great joy for the industry was the transition of video surveillance systems from film to hard drives. Well, in general, the volume of digital data for each user, no matter whether private or corporate, continues to grow at a rapid pace. At current prices for hard drives, it is cheaper to buy a new one than to waste time cleaning out the old one.
But with the choice of hard drives, everything has become somewhat more complicated than before. Just seven years ago, they actually differed only in volume. Well, and speed, of course - as manufacturers, competing with each other, introduced something new. Then they began to introduce gradations in productivity, when at the same speed of disk rotation (spindle, more precisely, but normal person this word will scare you) some HDDs were faster than others (due to the buffer volume and recording density on the platters). And recently they came up with the idea of crushing it for its intended purpose. And they crushed it so much that even my head is spinning sometimes. By and large, nothing bad will happen if you suddenly decide to put a NAS disk in desktop computer. By the way, I have them and they feel great. And vice versa is also possible. The fragmentation is largely marketing. But some points are still useful to consider.
An important point: nothing prevents us from installing laptop hard drives in regular computer. They have the same interface, with fastenings the issue can be resolved easily and naturally. In modern buildings, by the way, it is often provided from the very beginning. A laptop drive is usually slightly slower than a 3.5-inch drive from the same series, but it operates absolutely silently and is more resistant to overheating. Decide for yourself what is more important.
Now on to the usage models. Let me emphasize that we are only talking about models for the home and/or small office. Server drives are a separate topic; you can’t mix everything into one pile.
Do you need a hard drive to store files, but speed is not critical?
Take WD Green or Seagate Desktop HDD.
Need a hard drive for a smart home network storage(NAS)?
Take WD Red or Seagate NAS HDD
Need a hard drive for smart network storage with increased speed?(let me clarify, installing fast disks in a regular NAS does not make the latter faster)
Take WD Red Pro, WD RE, Seagate NAS HDD or Hitachi DeskStar NAS
You just need a hard drive for various things, don’t want a really slow one?
We take WD Blue, Seagate Desktop HDD, Hitachi UltraStar 7K4000 (Toshiba models still have tooth-breaking indexes, look at disks with a 64 MB buffer)
Requires a very fast hard drive for installation operating system and launching games?
We take WD Blue SSHD (holy crap, they’ve already started splitting up the lineup), WD Black, Seagate Desktop SSHD, Hitachi 7K6000, Toshiba with a 128 MB buffer.
Need a hard drive for your laptop?
We take a mobile WD Blue, Seagate Laptop HDD (Ultrathin HDD for thin cases), Hitachi Travelstar 5K (Z5K for thin cases).
Need a fast hard drive for your laptop?
We take mobile WD Blue SSHD, WD Black, Seagate Ultra Mobile SSHD, Seagate Laptop SSHD, Hitachi 7K (Z7K for thin cases).
Do you need both an SSD and a larger hard drive in your laptop, but there is only room for one thing?
We take WD Black 2 (120 GB SSD and terabyte HDD in one case)
Do you need a HDD for a video surveillance system?
Take WD Purple, Seagate Video 3.5 HDD (or Video 2.5 HDD), Hitachi CinemaStar C5K
This is a normal list, right?
And I also significantly simplified the algorithm, otherwise we would have become completely confused. Some models differ from each other only in firmware (for example, WD Red, Purple and Green have the same capacity), some are really very different. Digging into this can dislocate your brain. So just move on from the task. It will be easier and faster this way.
I won’t talk much about the volume. It's easiest to take something in between. For example, now it is 3-4 TB for 3.5-inch models and 1-2 TB for laptops. But it all depends on the tasks. If you need as much as possible, take it, there is nothing to do.
As for the Most Reliable Manufacturer... You know, there is something religious in this. Someone got screwed by Seagate ten years ago, he bought WD and hasn’t had any problems since then. Does this mean WD is better than Seagate? Nothing like this. Just so lucky. And I know people who were let down by WD many years ago, they switched to Seagate and are happy. And some especially advanced ones are fleeing the struggle of the giants at Hitachi (and it doesn’t matter that it has long been owned by WD).
I'm afraid to offend your religious feelings, but all four remaining manufacturers are almost the same in terms of reliability. There are small outbreaks of marriage, but that’s the same for everyone. Therefore, you should not seriously bother with the brand. Follow the following algorithm: “Task – required volume – best price" And all will be well. Unless, of course, you forget about backup.
The speed – within the scope of the tasks for which the hard drive is selected – is also approximately the same. 10 megabytes here, 10 megabytes there don’t really matter. With such a fine fragmentation of model ranges, miracles do not happen.
Now you know everything to buy internal hard disk.
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I’m starting to slowly upgrade my laptop, I started with the easiest thing: expanding the current memory.
The point is very simple - there is no longer a need for a DVD drive, so additional memory will be installed in its place.
Related articles:
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What's available:
a) laptop Packard Bell Easy Note TE11HC
b) external USB HDD 1 TB
c) the desire to free up one of the USB ports
What is needed:
a) cross screwdriver
b) straight arms
c) patience
d) oh, yes! Boxing (sled/Cadillac (shta?)/adapter) for HDD to laptop
Let's get started!
Removing DVD-ROM 1) Turn on the laptop, press the tray open button.
2) Turn off the laptop, remove the battery.
3) Next, in my model it was only necessary to unscrew one mounting screw; in other laptops, you may need to remove the entire cover.
4) Carefully pull the drive out of the socket; after removing it, DO NOT push the tray in, we will need a plug.
5) We look for the latches, carefully (!) press them out and squeeze them out. 
6) Unscrew the mounting bracket (if equipped). 
Let's gut the puller My test subject was the Seagate Expansion SRD00F1 for 1,700 rubles (2014 price). The cheapest one I found. Because the design of the case is super simple. 
And here is its description: 
1) We disassemble the case using a plastic card/mediator. The case consists of two parts, which are connected by latches. Split as carefully as possible and hold it tightly in your hand.
2) Inside the case, the disc is held on rubber spacers. Carefully disconnect it from the SATA adapter and remove the spacers. 
By the way, the disk turned out to be from Samsung. 
4) It may turn out that the spacers are held on by the screw heads. In my case this is so, so I unscrew these screws (4 pieces). 
We collect 1) Screw the bracket to the slide.
2) We put a damper inside (a white block of soft material), then carefully insert the disk. It shouldn't dangle. If I had not unscrewed the screws, the disk would not have fit in width. 
3) Insert the plug into a new place. 
4) Now we insert the box itself into place of the drive. For me it was quite tight, so try to push it in as evenly as possible. I got it jammed) When I tried to pull it out, the plug snapped off. Actually, I didn’t expect anything else from a cheap adapter) 
Examination 1) Turn on the laptop. After loading the drivers, they pulled themselves up. 
2) Check in "Device Manager".
Recently, DVD drive my XBOX began to act up and became reluctant to read discs. For this reason, I decided to upgrade my hard drive to a more capacious one, so that in the future I could transfer all the games onto it and play without using disks. This article will describe how to upgrade the hard drive on chip-based consoles.
Warning:
All information is for informational purposes only, with some actions from this article, misuse, you can render your device inoperative, so you perform all actions at your own peril and risk.
I strongly do not recommend using the materials in this article for those who use soft-modified consoles. This article is only for owners of chipped consoles.
Theoretically, upgrading a hard drive on a chip-based console does not require special skills, and for knowledgeable person can be produced within 15-20 minutes. An unprepared user will find a lot of scattered information on this issue, and finding the right one in it is a difficult task. I tried to combine everything in one article necessary knowledge for a painless upgrade.
To install a new disk you will need:
— the hard drive itself, of any desired size. But I’ll immediately warn you that if you want to have a HDD with a capacity of more than 137Gb, you will need to do a procedure for flashing the BIOS to support LBA48, which can “kill” your XBOX. The hard drive must have an IDE interface, theoretically it should work and SATA drives, when using a SATA->IDE adapter, but I have not tested this solution.
- blank DVD disc
- a hex screwdriver, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver of a suitable size
- patch cord - cable for connecting XBOX to the network
All software upgrade work will be carried out using Slayer Evox 2.7, a link to which I will not provide for obvious reasons. Download, write to disk and launch Evox on the box.
The first thing you need to do is backup the system. You will need to backup information from hard drives C and E, as well as backup EEPROM. First, save the EEPROM, select the 2nd item in the menu, Save BIOS / EEPROM. It will be saved to the c:\backup folder.
Now, using any FTP client, connect to XBOX. For example, in Total Commander To do this, you need to select an FTP connection or Ctrl+N, enter the XBOX address (in my case it was 192.168.1.101) and uncheck Anonymous connection. Enter xbox as the username and password (in small letters).
If you don’t have Total Comander, you can connect in a regular Windows Explorer by typing in the address bar: ftp://xbox:xbox@<адрес вашего бокса>
After that, copy the contents of drives C and E and put them in a secluded place (or better yet, write them to discs right away). As you can see, on the C:\backup drive there is backup copy EEPROM
Turn off the box, disconnect all the wires from it and turn it upside down. You need to remove 4 rubber feet, under which there are bolts.
Two more bolts are under the stickers 
Microsoft didn't skimp on screws)))
Now let's shoot top cover and we see the desired hard drive, but not yet available. Disconnect the IDE cable and power cable from it. On the left side of the holding frame, unscrew the screw and remove it together with the frame.
On the left and right sides of the frame there are 2 screws securing the screw
On the new HDD, set the jumper to Cable Select or Master mode, as is usually indicated on the hard drive itself. Now, in the reverse order, we attach the new hard drive back into the case and boot again from the Evox boot disk. In the menu now select item 3 NEW INSTALL / FULL REBUILD.
A warning message will appear that all data may be lost, so we just continue. Formatting will begin. hard sections disk and copying installation files. When finished, the XBOX will turn off. Turn it on again, remove the disk from the drive and enjoy the new working screw :)
For the final step, you need to “lock” the hard drive, this is necessary to be able to boot into the original dashboard. If you don't need it, you can finish this step. Otherwise, we will have to configure the network again, if it is not configured, and connect via FTP. Then you need to copy the xboxdashdata.XXX folder (where XXX are numbers), xodash and the xboxdash.xbe file to drive C from previously saved backups.
Next, select menu item 4B HARD DRIVE LOCK / UNLOCK & FORMAT, then 4B1 LOCK / UNCLOCK and then LOCK
To check the correctness of the operation, let’s load into the original dashboard - SYSTEM MANAGEMENT -> M$ DASHBOARD (or simply turn off the console and turn it on with the chip disabled) - the dashboard should load
For those who have chosen a HDD with a capacity of less than 137GB, that’s all). They can enjoy working with the new hard drive. But those for whom 137GB is clearly not enough (for example, me) must perform another operation. In order for the console to see partitions on a HDD larger than these 137 GB, the console’s BIOS must be able to work with LBA48 addressing. To do this, the Evox boot disk comes with several BIOS modifications. For example, it is possible to split free space between drives F and G, or give everything to just one drive F. It is also worth paying attention to current version your BIOS, because there is a limitation, if your BIOS version is 1.6, you only need BIOS 1.6 (as stated in the firmware name)
Select the BIOS you need (I WARN AGAIN, ALL FURTHER ACTIONS WITH FLASHING THE BIOS RISK OF BRINGING THE XBOX INTO WORKING CONDITION. PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE DOING EVERYTHING CORRECTLY) and agree with the message about possible consequences. If you continue further and do not disable the console mod-chip, the firmware will be interrupted with the error that it is impossible to write data. To avoid this, you should disconnect the mod chip before recording; in my case, I simply pulled the plug out of the board with the configuration switches.
The firmware process will begin, after which the XBOX will turn off
We turn the mod chip back on and turn on the console. As you can see, after the BIOS update the appearance loading screen
What surprised me most (I would even say frightened me) was that in the modified version they changed the color of the backlight of the disk healing button from green to red. The first thought from what I saw was, well, that’s it, khan))
We boot into Evox again, select item 4B HARD DRIVE LOCK / UNLOCK & FORMAT and then 4B2 FORMAT HARD DRIVE. In the list of further possibilities, we are only interested in Format only F (and if you chose the option with support for the G drive, then we also format this drive).
After formatting we see new free space values
And finally, it remains to restore the standard applications, because... After formatting, the entire contents of the F drive were deleted. Go to menu item 4 APPS / UPGRADES / LOCK / FORMAT, then 4A INST/UPG XBMC, M$DASH, APPS & EVOX. Next, select the set of tools you are interested in, for example item 4a2 Inst/Upg XBMC, apps on (F:) & Evox on (C:). What does it mean to install a multimedia player and additional software on drive F and install Evox dashboard on drive C.
While I was writing this article, about 10 of my faces were grabbed for a brand new screw, so that’s all for now!