Which alloy wheel to choose for a car. On a long journey


Properly selected wheels mean road safety and rational fuel consumption, increased transmission service life and a stylish look for your car.

Wheels are divided into two main groups: steel and alloy.

Steel stamped wheels consist of a rim and a disc welded to it. These parts are made by stamping from sheet steel and are connected to each other by resistance spot welding. After this, the discs are painted.

This method of making disks is simple and inexpensive. A large number of cars are equipped with steel wheels as standard from the factory. Installation of alloy wheels by the manufacturer on a car is usually an option. Although, in Lately, this trend is decreasing in favor alloy wheels.

Durable and inexpensive steel disks have high impact strength, so during strong impacts they do not split, but are deformed, which makes it possible to restore them even in cases of very strong crushing of the edges.

The main disadvantages of stamped disks are their large mass, which is not possible to reduce, since with a smaller wall thickness the strength characteristics are reduced, the tendency to corrosion if the protective coating is damaged, the uniform appearance and low manufacturing accuracy (and, therefore, possible problems with balancing). The large weight of the disc negatively affects the dynamics of acceleration and braking of the car, the performance of the suspension and driving comfort.

Alloy wheels They have unlimited design possibilities, high precision manufacturing, excellent heat removal from the brake unit, but most importantly, they are lighter than steel discs. These are general advantages. It is possible to specifically judge their pros and cons only by taking into account the method and alloy they are made from. There are many nuances here, the wheel is different.

Alloy wheels are made by casting or forging from high-strength alloys based on aluminum, magnesium or titanium. Magnesium and titanium wheels are lighter and stronger than aluminum, but magnesium is less resistant to corrosion, so magnesium wheels need to be coated with multiple layers of protective coatings, while titanium is too expensive. Therefore, they are used on very expensive, prestigious, or tuned sports cars that are not intended for everyday driving.

Cast aluminum wheels are approximately 15 - 30% lighter than steel wheels, depending on the design. This is their main advantage, since when installing such discs the weight of the unsprung parts of the car is reduced.

This means that when driving over uneven roads, the smoothness of the car improves by reducing vibrations and the life of suspension and transmission parts increases by reducing the loads acting on them.

Lightweight wheels quickly restore contact with the road surface when hitting an obstacle, which increases vehicle stability and controllability at high speeds.

Reducing the weight of each wheel by 1 kg is equivalent to lightening the body by 15-20 kg; this also has a positive effect on the dynamics of the car, since acceleration and braking require less force, which ultimately leads to an increase in the service life of the engine, transmission, braking system and to reduce fuel consumption.

In addition, light alloy wheels provide better cooling brake mechanisms, firstly, due to the high thermal conductivity of the materials, and secondly, the ability to make a disc with very large holes (without loss of rigidity) and directed blades, which, when the wheel rotates, drive air to the brake.

Cast wheels are stronger and stiffer than stamped steel, they absorb impact better and retain their shape, but are less ductile because they have a granular internal structure. In the event of a very strong impact, the disc is not deformed, but splits, beyond the possibility of repair. In addition, a cast disc requires serious surface protection; without this, it quickly becomes covered with a whitish oxide film, which, on the one hand, is protective, but, on the other hand, spoils the presentation.

Forged wheels are produced by hot die forging on presses of unique capacity - over 10,000 tons. This technology makes it possible to obtain wheel rims of record strength and low weight, since the metal acquires a multilayer fibrous structure as a result of forging. Forged wheels are 20 - 30% lighter than traditional cast wheels. In contrast, forged wheels do not burst under strong impacts, but bend without cracking. In this case, the blow must be very strong.

The corrosion resistance of a forged disc is significantly higher than that of a cast disc, which means that the requirements for surface protection are lower. Their disadvantages include high cost due to extremely expensive production equipment, and a limited number of models.

"Liquid forging", or high pressure casting. This technology is used by many Japanese companies. During production, presses of lower power are used than for forging (3000 - 5000 tons), this makes it possible to achieve a fine-grained metal structure and reduce production costs. And in terms of their strength properties, liquid forged wheels are significantly superior to cast ones, but do not reach the same level as solid forged ones.

Composite disks- a compromise between cast and forged - an attempt to reduce the shortcomings and emphasize the advantages of both. Wheel parts are made using different technologies, for example, the rim is forged, the disc is cast. They are connected with bolts, usually titanium, since steel fasteners are susceptible to electrochemical corrosion. Wheels with bolts are now in fashion, so many companies produce solid wheels with short false bolts that are purely decorative. To distinguish such a wheel from a prefabricated one, you should look at the disk from the back side. With a solid cast, the transition boundaries from the rim to the disc are continuous, without a seam. Technical advantages Prefabricated wheels probably don’t have the same properties as solid ones. False bolts only increase the weight of the wheel, and they can also get lost, especially on our bumpy roads.

Thus, the choice of wheels for a car should be determined by your needs and the amount in your wallet. If you want to give your car a modern, stylish look, improve handling, smoothness, acceleration and braking dynamics, then your choice is cast alloy wheels. If you are involved in motorsports or love tuning, you should purchase forged wheels. And for car enthusiasts who value reliability, but are not ready to shell out a hefty sum for a set of alloy wheels, stamped steel wheels are suitable.

To choose the right disk, you need to know the following parameters: width and diameter of the disk, number and location of mounting holes, vehicle hub diameter, offset.

This is what the wheel design looks like

Installation dimensions can be determined from tire and wheel selection catalogs, or by direct measurement. Both should be done in specialized stores.

Disc diameter is selected according to the recommendation of the manufacturer of your car and corresponds to the tire diameter. Recently, there has been a strong trend towards increasing the mounting diameter: cars that have standard 15-inch wheels, for example, are being converted to 16-inch, 17-inch and even 18-19. This is explained by the desire to use low-profile tires, since their driving qualities are better, although comfort suffers, the likelihood of damage to the wheel rim increases, and the load on all suspension components and wheel bearings increases. You yourself must find a compromise between sport and comfort.

Rim width. The permissible deviation of the rim width from that recommended in the catalog is 0.5 - 1.0 inches for disks with a mounting diameter of up to 14 inches; and 1.0 - 1.5 inches - for disks with a diameter of 15 inches or more. It is better, of course, to choose a disk of standard width. The use of either too wide or too narrow rims relative to the width of the tire profile (see figure) is undesirable, since this violates the design profile of the tire (the sidewalls are either compressed by the rim flanges or stretched on it), which deteriorates its driving characteristics — response to turning, resistance to slip, lateral rigidity.

There is also a “folk” way to select the width of the disk.

tire tread width - 20% = rim width

For example: 195/65R15;

width 195 mm - 20% = 156 mm;

divide by 25.4 (1 inch = 25.4 mm) = 6.1 inches, round to the nearest standard value, we get 6 inches - a rim of this width is needed for a 195/65R15 tire.

You need to understand that this method is not optimal and can only be used if it is not possible to use the catalog, because when determining the width of the rim, car manufacturers take into account not only the width of the tire tread, but also the profile height, dimensions and weight of the car, and etc.

Diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes are located— PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter). For example, PCD100/4 means that this diameter is 100 mm, and the number of holes is 4. It is impossible to install disks with a violation of the PCD diameter - this will lead to the fact that of all the nuts or bolts, only one will be fully tightened, while the remaining holes “ will lead away,” and the fasteners will remain untightened or tightened skewed, and the fit of the wheel to the hub will be incomplete. While driving, such a wheel will “beat”, in addition, not fully tightened nuts will unscrew by themselves.

In addition, the disk is selected according to its diameter central hole (if the error is minus, you cannot put the wheel on the hub) and according to the characteristics of the mounting holes: tightening the bolts (nuts) “to a plane,” “to a sphere,” or “to a cone.”

Wheel offset (ET)- this is the distance between the longitudinal plane of symmetry of the rim and the mounting plane of the wheel. The offset can be zero, positive, or negative. The offset is indicated, for example, ET30 (mm), if its value is positive, or ET-30, if negative, or in the words OFFSET, DEPORT.

The larger the ET value, the deeper the disc “sits” in the wheel niche. The lower the ET, the more the disc protrudes outward from the wheel well. Therefore, car owners often strive to reduce disc overhang.

On the image: On the left is a wheel with a standard offset ET, on the right is a wheel with a reduced offset ET.

The tolerance for changes in offset is plus or minus 5-8 mm from what is indicated in the catalogue.

Of course, reducing the offset makes the wheel track wider, slightly increases the stability of the car, the car corners more confidently and takes on a stylish racing look. But at the same time, the impact of shocks from road irregularities on the steering wheel increases, and this is not in the best possible way affects controllability. In addition, the load on the wheel bearings of the suspension increases. Tires that protrude excessively from the wheel arches will throw dirt onto the side of the body and side windows and may touch the wheel arches.

In order for the car to be not only beautiful, but also safe, you should not abuse the width of the rim and the reduced offset; it is advisable not to change the parameters beyond the specified tolerances.

On tuning and sports modifications, the offset is changed, but this is done in conjunction with a number of other changes to the car.

In any case, after replacing the wheels, taking precautions, you need to conduct a thorough test - drive the new wheels to feel how the car's behavior has changed.

And one more piece of advice. Today it is not economically profitable to have one set of wheels, because this means the need to re-align the tires during the seasonal wheel change. Firstly, for 3-4 reassemblies you will pay an amount equivalent to the cost of one disk. Secondly, each re-flashing causes, albeit small, but still damage to the tires, which after a while will begin to leak air at the joints with the disks. Thirdly, when beading, scratches on the disk are possible, which over time lead to its corrosion. Plus, there are queues at the tire shop when winter “suddenly” comes. Having two sets (summer and winter) mounted wheels can make your life much easier: you will save your time, save some money and extend the life of your wheels and tires.

We have collected the questions that our clients most often ask and answered them in one large article.

— Which discs should I install in winter and which in summer?

In the fight for buyers, wheel manufacturers use different coatings and strive for the wheel to decorate the car.

The appearance of the disc is one of important parameters, which attracts the buyer’s attention and forces them to make a purchase.

In summer, discs are less exposed to damage than in winter, so you need to carefully select discs for different seasons.

In summer the weather is warm, dry, so you can please yourself with bright, beautiful discs. You can safely choose colored or chrome wheels, if allowed by the car manufacturer, or install large diameter wheels. Your car will get a more sporty and stylish look with different-wide wheels - narrow at the front and wide at the rear. The “NA KOLESAKH.RU” network offers a wide range of wheels from all manufacturers represented in Russia.

Different-wide wheels increase the contact patch of the driving wheels and the traction force with the road surface, giving the car a stylish, sporty look.

Wheels for winter

The choice of disks for the winter period is determined by weather conditions. We recommend installing classic silver wheels. They are made using proven technology and last quite a long time. Before painting, the metal of the disc is processed and covered with several layers of primer. Only then paint is applied to it, and then several layers of varnish.

We We recommend choosing wheels with a smaller diameter in winter . For example, if you drive in the summer with rims of size 19-20, you can switch to size 18. This will make the car more stable and driving safer.

How to find out which disc diameters are suitable

You don't need to call the seller to pick up wheels the right size. Take advantage of our selection by car. The program will automatically tell you what diameter wheels can be installed on your car.

Select wheels

Remember that when changing the rim diameter, you will have to change the tires.

In the wheel selection program, in addition to the necessary parameters, we always offer a photograph so that you can choose the appropriate design.

But sometimes when choosing a disk with five mounting holes, the photo shows a disk with four holes. For example, when selecting disks with a width of 7, a diameter of 16 and a drill size of 5×114.3, among the results there is a photograph of a disk with only four holes.


The fact is that one design can have discs of different sizes: four, five, six holes. The photo only shows the design of the disc and will not affect your order in any way. You will receive exactly the size you ordered.

— How many sets of disks should you have: two or one?

This frequently asked question may have different answers from sellers.

It is not beneficial for the seller to say that there is no need to buy a second set, but often he cannot explain why it is necessary to buy two sets.

Two sets in terms of safety

If regular disks are installed for the summer, then we suggest approaching the issue from the point of view of savings. We will offer a formula, and you, by substituting the values, will get the amount of losses or benefits.

Let's calculate the amount Z of savings or losses when purchasing the second set ((X − Y)×2)×n − D = Z

  • X is the amount of tire service if you change tires with one set of wheels. We focus on the cost of tire fitting for a passenger car in our network “NA KOLESAKH.RU” - 2,520 rubles.
  • Y is the sum of the installation of two sets (price 1,620 rubles). We multiply the result by two, since we change the car’s shoes 2 times a year.
  • n — number of years of planned operation of the disks (about 5 years)
  • D - average cost of R16 disk - 3,400 rubles, set - 13,600 rubles.

Having chosen the disks and knowing the average cost of their installation, you can calculate whether it is profitable to have two sets of disks or not. ((2,520 − 1,620)×2)×5 − 13,600 = −4,600 rub.

In our case, it is not economically feasible to install a second set. On the other hand, the loss is insignificant if divided over 5 years. If you change the numbers, the result will change, draw your own conclusion. If we are talking about serious savings, you can purchase 2 sets of disks and spend only on balancing the winter and summer sets, and carry out the installation yourself.

Then the formula will look like this: ((X − K)×2)×n − D = Z where: K is the cost of balancing 4 wheels - 820 rubles. ((2,520 − 820)×2)×5 − 13,600 = 3,400 rub.

You already get benefits when you buy the second set. But again, savings of 3,400 rubles in 5 years with self-installation and removing tires will not appeal to every car enthusiast.

You can view prices and sign up for tire fitting directly on the website

— What depends on the country of the disc manufacturer?

The situation on the wheel rim market is changing quite quickly. If in 2002 only a few people knew about discs from China, then in 2012 their sales in Russia amounted to 60%. Many European brands have moved their production to China. Together with them, the share of Chinese disks will be about 70-80%.

70-80% of all wheel rims are manufactured in China


The remaining manufacturers present on the market are German, Italian and Russian companies. Unlike domestic tire manufacturers, domestic wheel manufacturers are increasing their capacity and fighting for market share.

Anyone who has communicated with Chinese manufacturers knows that they work on the principle “Everything for the customer.” Russian sellers developed relationships with Chinese manufacturers, like in the fairy tale about the greedy rich man and the seven sheepskin caps. Therefore, at first volumes of low-quality Chinese scrap metal rushed to Russia.

The Chinese make quality products for the USA and Europe. People there have long understood that a quality product costs money. There are a number of disc production technological processes. Let's denote them, for example, by the number 15. So, 15 processes must be done in order for a disk to appear from an aluminum ingot. These 15 production processes cost, for example, $100. As a result, the Russian seller, in search of profit, agrees to reduce technological processes : instead of 15 they make 8-10, and it costs $50-60.

Appearance and quality

The most dangerous thing is that outwardly low-quality discs cannot be distinguished from high-quality ones. A violation of production technology cannot be seen from the outside; it can be determined by expert examination or personal bitter experience of operating these discs on Russian roads.

A man brought a sheep skin to the master and asked how many hats he could make from it. We agreed on seven. When the customer arrived, to his surprise, he was offered seven tiny hats that could only be worn on the fingers.

Armenian fairy tale

- What is the difference between an original disc and a so-called replica?

Why did they come up with the original?

An original part is a product (spare part) of a car that is produced under the brand logo of the automaker. What is the purpose of original parts?

A great marketing ploy is to put the BMW stamp on the part. Why invent something else, everything has already been invented for us.

This is how a person works: he is more comfortable when he is advised, selected and recommended. Think for yourself: to select an air filter for a BMW, how much you need to sort through and listen to. And according to the VIN number - once, and you have a filter, and even in a box with the BMW logo. Everything would be great, but for such a service the seller of the “original” charges an additional fee. And the additional fee is sometimes 2 times the cost of the same part produced at the same factory, only without the BMW logo. As they say: “It’s nothing personal, it’s business!”

VIN number

Vehicle identification number
VIN) is a unique vehicle code.

From Wikipedia

As for the original discs, then 95% of their production factories have been transferred to China. An original wheel is a wheel with original parameters, suitable for a strictly defined car. A design developed specifically for this car with its logo is an excellent idea!

Replica - a product that completely copies the original, with minor design changes to avoid lawsuits (this applies to discs). In fact, the first who started selling replica discs were the Italians. Then the Turks “pulled up”, and then the Chinese “blown away” everyone. 100% of the market for copies of the original is now held Chinese manufacturers. They also produce 95% of original discs. Now it’s clear why it’s not difficult for them to make copies.

Do we void the warranty?

Sometimes in showrooms you can hear from the acceptance technician that the car has non-original wheels installed, and the warranty will be removed. This statement is illegal. If you are presented with a claim of this kind, contact the management of the salon or service center.

To summarize: what is the difference between the original and the replica?

The difference in the price of discs: the original costs 2-3 times more.

The quality is the same
since the original and the replica can be produced at the same factory, but go on sale through different channels.

The replica is sold without original manufacturer stickers.

Disk options.

Almost every car disk its marking is applied. If it is on the disk, then understand everything necessary information, which will determine the degree of its compliance with a specific car, will not be difficult. However, before selecting car rims yourself, it is recommended that you read the car’s operating manual. It will certainly contain the parameters required and recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

Size D(measured in inches) - the diameter of the annular part of the rim of the disk on which the tire rests. It is also called the “landing diameter”.

Size IN(measured in inches) - the distance between the inner surfaces of the wheel flanges. The possible profile width of the installed tires directly depends on it. A deviation of 0.5 - 1 inch is acceptable, but for low-profile tires such a deviation should be minimal.

ET(measured in millimeters) - the distance from the plane of the disk, which is adjacent to the hub, to the plane that passes through the axis of the middle width of the disk rim. This parameter determines how deep the disc is recessed into the car arch. It is also called “disc ejection”. Acceptable deviation is up to 5 mm. With large deviations, it is necessary to try on the discs, since it is possible that the disc will rest against the wheel arch liners, suspension parts or elements of the car’s braking system. In addition, installing wheels with an offset less than specified will lead to a significant decrease in vehicle stability, increased steering sensitivity and uneven distribution of braking forces.

PCD(has a measurement of pcs/mm) - means the number of holes for fastening/circumference diameter of the centers of the holes. It is this wheel rim size that must absolutely correspond to the values ​​declared by the car manufacturer. If it is changed, it will be impossible to securely fix the wheel to the car hub. Even a deviation of 1 mm will lead to misalignment of the wheels and fastening parts.

HUMP(measured in millimeters) - the distance between the annular protrusions, which serve for additional fixation of the beads of tubeless tires during installation.



DIA(measured in millimeters) – the diameter of the central hole. Its size must correspond to the diameter of the centering protrusion located on the vehicle hub. Diameter deviation is allowed only in the direction of increase. In this case, it is necessary to install special adapter centering rings. Some domestic “craftsmen” manage to install light-alloy wheels on cars with a DIA value less than the standard one by drilling out the central hole of the disk. However, such modernization may lead to negative consequences due to changes in the metal structure of the disk.

Right size.

Size: "Width-Rim"

This ratio includes two parameters - rim width and mounting diameter. The vast majority of modern passenger cars are equipped with 13-, 14-, 15-, 16-, 17-inch wheels. Recently, there has been a tendency to increase the mounting diameter. Cars that come standard with 13-inch wheels often have 14- and even 15-inch wheels installed. This trend is explained by the desire of car owners to use tires of low and ultra-low series, since their driving characteristics are better than those of high-profile tires. But with a constant wheel diameter, the lower the tire profile, the more metal there is in the wheel, and, accordingly, the less rubber. The use of steel wheels with an increased mounting diameter is impractical, since this increases the total weight of the wheel, but the use of light alloy wheels will increase the mounting diameter without making the wheel heavier. On sports versions of production cars, larger brake elements are installed, so the discs must be larger than the mounting diameter, since the brake system parts will rest against the disc rim.

Rim width.

There is a golden rule for choosing the width of the rim - it should be 25% smaller than the width of the tire profile. Example: to select the width of a rim for a tire size 185/60 R14, you need to convert the tire profile width from millimeters to inches. To do this, you need to divide 185 by 25.4 (the number of millimeters in one inch). In inches it will be 7.68. You must subtract 25% from this value and round the resulting number to the standard value.

Those. the conversion formula will look like this: 185/25.4 – 25%=5.46. Thus, for a 185/60 R14 tire it is necessary to use a 5.5-inch wide rim. The permissible deviation of the disk width from the standard is 0.5-1 inch for disks with a diameter up to 15 inches and 1-1.5 inches for disks with a diameter over 15 inches

Of course, it is best to choose a wheel that exactly matches the tire. The use of either too narrow or too wide rims is undesirable, since this violates the design profile of the tire. Its sidewalls are either compressed by the edges of the rim, or stretched on it. As a result, the driving characteristics of the tire are disrupted - its lateral rigidity, resistance to slippage decreases, response to turning worsens, etc. Also, changing the size and shape of the tire's contact patch with the road surface significantly increases the risk of aquaplaning, which can lead to serious consequences in rainy weather.

Size: "Car-wheel."

PCD.

As already mentioned, it is necessary to use specific model vehicle only those wheels whose PCD value is determined by the vehicle manufacturer. For example, discs with a PCD value of 4x100 are often installed on the hub of a car with PCD 4x98. It seems that a difference of only 2 mm should be completely insignificant, however, in this case, only one bolt (or nut) out of four will be fully tightened. The remaining holes will lose alignment and the fasteners will either be undertightened or tightened skewed, since the disk will not be fully seated on the hub. And while driving, such a wheel will vibrate strongly and, in addition, the tightened threaded elements will spontaneously unscrew.

DIA.

As a rule, standard car wheels have a central hole that fits exactly to the hub axis. At manufacturers' factories, the wheels are centered along this hole - its diameter is called “landing”. But when buying discs in a store, it often turns out that the central hole of the disc turns out to be slightly larger than the standard one. This should not be surprising - most manufacturers make disks with a central hole of obviously larger diameter and complete the disk with a set of adapter rings. This allows it to be installed on various car models. In this case, the wheels are centered according to the PCD value.

Wheel offset (ET)


There are three types of wheel offset - zero, positive (the disk hub protrudes outward relative to the center axis of the rim) and negative (the disk hub is recessed inward relative to the center axis of the rim). Each car model has a standard disc offset value. This ensures optimal vehicle controllability and stability, as well as the lowest load on the wheel bearings. German automakers designate offset as “ET”, French - as “Deport”, English-speaking manufacturers - as “Offset”. Installing wheels with an abnormal disc offset is undesirable, since a decrease in the offset sharply increases the load on the hub bearings and the suspension as a whole, and an increase leads to unwanted friction of the disc on the elements of the suspension or braking system.

Examples of markings.

6x15 ET35 5x100 D57.1, Where:

6 – rim width in inches;

15 – disk diameter in inches;

ET35– disc offset in millimeters;

5x100– the disk has five mounting holes with a hole center circle diameter of 100 mm;

D57.1– the disk has a central hole with a diameter of 57.1 mm.

Wheels and tires are one of the most important elements of a modern car, providing not only driving comfort, but also safety, and therefore the choice of tires and wheels must be taken very seriously. To make this task easier for you, we have put together all the rules and nuances associated with the selection of wheels and tires, as well as the subtleties of their various combinations.

Let's start with the simplest thing. When planning to buy new wheels and tires, be sure to look at the owner's manual for your car, in which the manufacturer, as a rule, always indicates necessary information about the permissible sizes of wheels and tires. It is strictly not recommended to deviate from the factory recommendations, especially for novice motorists, since inappropriate correct sizes Wheels and tires, at a minimum, can lead to faster wear of the suspension and the wheels themselves, and, at a maximum, can provoke a sharp deterioration in the driving performance of the car, which can lead to increased fuel consumption, decreased handling, and even an accident on the road.

Before choosing wheels and tires, you need to understand their markings. Wheels, as a rule, receive markings like “R13 4×98 ET35 J5 D58.6”, where R13 is the diameter of the wheel rim in inches, 4×98 is the number of mounting holes and the diameter of their centers in millimeters, ET35 is the wheel offset or distance from the rim symmetry plane to the disk mounting plane (mm), J5 is the width of the disk rim in inches, and D58.6 is the diameter of the central hub hole. In turn, tires have the main marking of the type “235/70 R16 105H”, where R16 is the diameter of the wheel rim for which the rubber is intended, 235 is the width of the tire (profile) in millimeters, 70 is the percentage ratio of the width of the tire and the height of its profile (series), and 105H are indices of permissible load and speed.

  • When selecting new wheels, first of all you should pay attention to the diameter of the rim, which must correspond to the inner (landing) diameter of the tire. That is, if you buy R14 wheels, then the tires, accordingly, should also have a diameter of 14 inches.
  • Do not forget that the permissible load index and permissible speed index of the tires you choose must fully correspond to the characteristics of your car, which can be found in the owner's manual.
  • Next, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of the width of the rim and the width of the tire profile, while the width of the rim of the wheel rim should be about 70 - 75% of the width of the selected rubber, since it is with this ratio that the correct fit of the tires on the rims is ensured, guaranteeing the calculated driving performance. Problem in in this case is that the rim width is indicated by manufacturers in inches, and the tire profile width in millimeters, so you will have to use a calculator and convert millimeters to inches using a special formula. For example, your choice fell on 195/70 R15 tires. You need to divide 195 mm by a factor of 25.4, resulting in a width of 7.68 inches. Next, we reduce this value by 30% and get 5.38 inches. Now all that remains is to round the resulting value to the nearest standard size and you will get the desired rim width, ideally suited to the selected tire, in this case 5.5 inches.
  • The fourth point is the correct selection of wheel offset, which can be negative (the hub is recessed), positive (the hub protrudes towards the outer part of the disk) or zero (the hub is located strictly in the middle of the disk). In this case, you should strictly follow the recommendations of the car manufacturer, since the offset is calculated to minimize the load on the wheel bearings and other suspension components, and any deviation from the norm, even by minor amounts, can lead to rapid wear of the suspension elements, loss of stability and controllability of the car.
  • And finally, the last point is the selection of fasteners. If you buy standard wheels for your car, then there should be no problems with this item. But, for example, if you change stamped wheels to light alloy wheels, the length of the old mounting pins may not be enough, so you will have to purchase a new set.

Now let's talk about different combinations of rims and car tires. Let's start with the standard, i.e. optimal sizes, recommended by the manufacturer or simply used as a base for the corresponding configuration of your car. In this case, all driving characteristics are ensured as close as possible to the factory engineering calculations, which will ensure balanced behavior of the car in all respects (dynamics, braking, handling, comfort, etc.).

However, each automaker allows deviations in the permitted sizes of wheel rims and tires to less or big side, as indicated in the instruction manual. If you choose minimum size rims, then it becomes possible to install tires with a higher profile, which can help improve the car’s performance on bad roads and extend the life of both the wheels themselves and the suspension. At the same time, there are also disadvantages - deterioration of road grip, decreased control precision and loss of power.

In the opposite situation, when choosing the largest permitted wheel size, it is possible to use low-profile tires, which improve the dynamic characteristics of the car and also increase its directional stability. However, it is worth noting that low-profile tires are very demanding on the quality of the road surface, reduce driving comfort and are prone to aquaplaning.

Quite often, motorists strive to put the widest possible tires on their car, usually low-profile ones. But this is justified only for powerful cars that require a sporty driving style. If you are the owner of a compact or mid-size car with a low-power engine, then narrow tires would be a much better choice, since it is impossible to evaluate all the advantages of wide tires on low-power cars, but all their inherent disadvantages will be fully manifested. Returning to wide wheels, we add that you should not use tires whose profile width exceeds allowed by the manufacturer car dimensions, as this entails the removal of all insurance obligations in the event of an accident. However, even without this, tires that are too wide will not allow you to fully control the car, because during maneuvers (especially when the car is fully loaded), the sides of the tires can touch the arches, which can lead to a decrease in controllability and rapid wear of the tires.

The last thing we would like to talk about is the static diameter of the wheel, i.e. the full diameter of the wheel rim along with the tire mounted on it, inflated to operating pressure. When changing wheels of the same diameter to a larger one, it is sometimes difficult to choose tires that allow you to maintain the factory static wheel diameter that optimally suits your car. In this case, manufacturers allow an increase in the static diameter, but it must be remembered that this leads to a change in driving characteristics and can adversely affect the operation of modern electronic systems assistance, which are equipped with a larger number of cars currently produced. We also note that it is not recommended to increase the static diameter of the wheel by more than 3 cm, since a further increase leads to a noticeable deterioration in the traction characteristics of the vehicle and increased fuel consumption.

27May

How to choose wheels for a car

Correctly and competently selected wheels for your car mean not only your safety and care for your passengers, but also low fuel consumption, along with an increased service life of the transmission and the mesmerizing appearance of a stylish car.

How to choose the right wheels for a car and what to pay attention to

All wheels can be divided into two large groups

  1. Steel wheels– essentially ordinary steel
  2. Alloy wheels or alloy wheels – metals with increased strength and lighter than stamping

The design of stamped wheels is simple and straightforward. Sheet steel is stamped and individual parts are joined together by spot welding. The disc is then painted and sent to a store or conveyor belt.

This method of equipping a car with discs is simple and inexpensive. A significant number of cars coming off the assembly line have just such wheels. Installing alloy wheels on a car is already additional option, for which you need to pay a decent amount.

Types of wheel rims for cars more details




In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated discs - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner the choice is between inexpensive, but boring stamped wheels and more expensive and beautiful alloy wheels.

How to choose alloy wheels for a car

Cast or stamped wheels, which is better?

First of all, make sure that you really want alloy wheels and not stamped steel ones. The differences between aluminum alloy and steel wheels are huge, and it ultimately depends on what you as a driver want from your wheels. And alloy wheels have quite a few disadvantages over steel ones. We will not fully compare them in this article, but we will list the main disadvantages of alloy wheels:

  • Alloy wheels are more expensive when purchased (about 2-3 times)
  • Casting is more expensive to repair and balance, which is important given the quality of our roads.
  • Light alloys are much stiffer than steel, which determines what exactly can be damaged if it hits a hole, pothole or when driving on highly protruding rails: if steel disc often takes the brunt of the blow, the cast disc cuts the rubber quite easily, while it itself also wrinkles, only less than a steel disc would. However, the result is the same: in both cases you will have to straighten the disk, and now see the point above.

How to choose wheels for a car based on tires

Like any normal motorist, you, of course, know the diameter of the wheels of your car. This is the so-called mounting diameter of the disk, corresponding to the inner diameter of the tire. You can buy wheels with a larger diameter than the “standard” ones, equipping them with low-profile tires (the outer diameter of the wheel will remain the same). When using alloy wheels, such “castling” is completely justified: the weight of the wheel almost does not increase, but it looks much better. However, diameter is not all the parameters of a disk; read on and find out what else you need to pay attention to correct selection wheels on a car.

How to choose the right wheels for your car

The next parameter of the disk is its offset, the distance between the plane of symmetry of the disk and the plane of the disk mounting. The offset is measured in millimeters and is designated ET (wheels from German manufacturers), DEPORT (from the French) or OFFSET from manufacturers from other countries. It’s better not to be overzealous here: carefully read the owner’s manual for your car and buy alloy wheels with the recommended offset. Some car enthusiasts install wide wheels with a reduced offset (compared to the standard one), which increases the stability of the car and gives it a sporty look. However, do not forget that the reduced offset creates additional load on the hub bearings.

A parameter that, when choosing alloy wheels, must be observed absolutely precisely is the diameter of the centers of the mounting holes (pitch circle diameter, PCD) and the number of these holes. Alloy wheels with PCD markings different from those specified in the owner's manual for your vehicle will not be able to be installed. Pay attention to the bolts that will secure the alloy wheel to the wheel hub. “Original” wheels, as a rule, are sold already complete with bolts, but they may turn out to be too expensive or you may not find a model that matches the design.

Bolts that are too short do not securely fasten the wheel; bolts that are too long can catch fixed parts when the wheel rotates. Latin letter DIA denotes the diameter of the central hole of the disk, the hole for the hub. It is clear that a cast disk with a hole whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the hub cannot be installed.

But for the opposite situation, there are adapter rings (centering rings), which are often sold complete with the disk. Many manufacturers produce alloy wheels with a deliberately large central hole diameter so that these wheels can be installed on various brands of cars.

The last parameter that is worth paying attention to is the width of the rim (fitting width) of the alloy wheel (measured in inches). This parameter is important if you are selecting a wheel for existing tires. Here, accuracy is very important, since when using too narrow or too wide rims, the geometry of the tire contact patch with the road is disrupted and, accordingly, the driving characteristics of the tire.

Which company to choose alloy wheels for a car

Going to any store, every motorist thinks about which brand of wheels to choose. After all, not everything shiny and bright is worthy of attention. Here it is important to take into account some nuances and trust your reason. Let's figure it out

TOP 12 alloy wheels or which manufacturer's wheels to choose for a car

  1. Alloy wheels made in Italy by OZ Racing are an exclusive solution for cars. These wheels have already been chosen by famous Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati. More than 180 models made of durable aluminum alloy. Exquisite design, unique style, bold colors and the latest technology to protect the disc from mechanical damage and chemical influences. The average service life is 5 years. OZ Racing alloy wheels are a guarantee of quality that has been proven over the years (the company has been on the market for 46 years). By the way, many sports cars in Formula 1 and other racing competitions received victories, including thanks to OZ wheels.
  2. Enkei alloy wheels have long been in great demand. And this is understandable, because Japanese casting harmoniously combines modern manufacturing techniques and classical design traditions. Enkei wheels are manufactured in accordance with international quality standards (JGTC, VIA) using innovative M.A.T casting technology. (The Most Advanced Technology) at the micro level. That is why they are distinguished by their ultra-lightness (weight is 15% less than their analogues) and high metal strength. Hollow spokes are attached to the rim of the disc, which significantly increases the car's response to turns and protects the wheels from bending. And due to additional heat treatment, Enkei alloy wheels are more wear-resistant and can withstand greater loads.
  3. BBS wheels are suitable for both budget cars and luxury car brands. They combine German quality and reliability. The discs consist of three parts, which are connected by durable titanium bolts. A big plus is that the resistance to deformation is increased by 60%. Along the edges of the rim there are hollow compartments formed by casting according to new technology Air Inside, which reduces the weight of the wheel by 5 kg. This know-how makes BBS wheels more convenient and safer than models from other brands in this price range. Another difference between these wheels is their special shine, which is achieved by grinding a million steel balls from the bearings.
  4. Alutec is another German company whose alloy wheels are selling well both in Russia and in European countries, the USA and Canada. They are absolutely not afraid of low temperatures and chemical reagents, so you can safely put them on your car even in winter. In addition, Alutec casting is characterized by high wear resistance and strength.
  5. But about the alloy wheels of the Japanese company Kosei, we can safely write that they are for real samurai. On average, their service life is 4-5 years with a minimum number of repair trips. Cast wheels from Kosei can withstand quite strong impacts without serious consequences. Another advantage is their aesthetics. The wheels look great on any car. By the way, Kosei has been supplying wheels for Toyota for a long time.
  6. Another worthy option that deserves attention are German Dezent aluminum wheels. Although the company is relatively young, it has already gained authority in the global automotive market. Dezent castings are supplied to 30 countries, including the CIS countries. During the manufacture of these discs, manufacturers take into account all the nuances during the movement of the car. In addition, they develop special wheel models for individual car brands. Thus, special winter alloy wheels were produced for Mercedes.
  7. Aez alloy wheels - also favorable ratio quality and cost. Elegant models with a thin rim, thanks to the homogeneous structure of the alloy, are very resistant to damage and falling into holes. The line includes all sizes - from 13 to 20 inches, so every car enthusiast can choose the most suitable set for himself.
  8. Russian SKAD wheels are confidently conquering the car market, pushing foreign brands into the background. What is the secret of success? The answer is simple. SKAD alloy wheels are durable and reliable, without hidden defects or defects. They are highly resistant to corrosion and chemicals. In addition, Ford and Volkswagen have already chosen castings from the Russian manufacturer.
  9. K&K cast aluminum wheels are the only wheels with a long-term factory warranty on the material and construction of the wheel. Manufactured entirely in Russia. The manufacturer's collection includes more than 120 varieties of discs and about 500 variations in size. Today, every fourth driver chooses castings from K&K for his car, because despite the fairly low cost, they are of high quality and durable.
  10. LS Wheels wheels from the Taiwanese company YHI are stylish, fashionable and prestigious, but for quiet driving. For lovers of extreme roads with a lot of potholes, these wheels are probably not suitable. Although there are many car owners who were satisfied with the purchase. LS Wheels wheels last on average 5-6 years. They are resistant to rapid weather changes, very light and beautiful.
  11. Replicas of the original Replica alloy wheels are also very popular among buyers. But when choosing such casting, you need to be careful, since it is done without official permission. Therefore, there are no guarantees of quality and cannot be. Buying a replica means getting a lottery ticket, which is not always winning. Because of this, Replica alloy wheels deservedly remain in the penultimate position in the rating. However, good copies are really reliable, durable, and will last for many years.
  12. And finally, Chinese iWheelz alloy wheels. Their main advantage of Chinese cast ones is their pleasantly low price and rich color palette. They are light and aesthetic. But there are fakes, the quality of which is pretty poor. Therefore, you should carefully choose alloy wheels from this company.

How to choose stamped wheels for a car

To be honest, when buying, you don’t have to particularly ask yourself what kind of stamping to buy, that is, in reality, drivers simply buy what is on the market and, for the most part, so that it is cheaper.

The main advantage of cheap steel wheels in winter over cast models is their behavior in an accident and ease of repair. If you fall into a hole - no problem - you can straighten the rim at the nearest service station. After a serious accident, a stamped kit cannot be saved, just like a cast one. But it costs less, replacement will not hit the budget so much.

How wheel weight affects acceleration

One of the main parameters that directly affects the speed and dynamics of any car is the weight of the wheel rims. Every experienced car owner knows well that by reducing the weight of the disks, an amazing effect can be achieved: increase smoothness, increase maximum speed and make car handling easier and safer. But in order to make the effect of improving dynamics more attractive, you need to understand how the weight of the disk affects each of the above parameters.

Sprung and unsprung mass

To better understand the relationship between the weight of a car wheel and its dynamic characteristics, it is necessary to take into account all the forces that act on the vehicle while driving. Experienced engineers and designers at automobile factories always pay attention to one thing: important indicator– the difference between the unsprung and sprung masses of the car.

From the point of view of engineering science, the sprung mass includes all elements and parts of the vehicle that are located between the spring and the body (i.e., separated from the road surface). Conversely, unsprung mass is everything that is located between the road and the car's springs. If you correctly redistribute the proportion of these two indicators, you can increase braking efficiency, improve the smoothness of the ride and increase the dynamic qualities of the car.

Controllability

If you hit an obstacle on the road, the maximum impact force falls not on the body, but on the wheel. Only then does the residual force reach the body through the shock absorber, and the wheel returns to its original state. Practice shows that as the unsprung weight of the vehicle decreases, the impact force on the body decreases, and maneuvering becomes smoother and more comfortable. But you should not abuse the weight reduction: if the unsprung mass is too small compared to the mass of the body, then it will take more time to return the wheel to its original position. When driving in ideal weather, this will not affect safety, but on wet or slippery asphalt, the likelihood of skidding will increase significantly.

Dynamic characteristics

Any engine is capable of producing only a certain amount of energy at a time. The heavier the car's wheels are, the more power will be spent to spin them, which means there will be more left for rapid acceleration. minimal amount free energy. If you take specific statistics, then reducing the weight of the wheels by one kilogram increases the car’s power by about 1%. Many car owners, knowing this, and also that forged wheels are lighter than cast ones, choose them to increase car performance and reduce acceleration time.

Smooth ride

Calculations show that reducing the weight of each wheel by at least one kilogram is equivalent to reducing the weight in the cabin by 40 kilograms. In practice, we can give the following example: if you reduce the weight of each wheel by four kilograms (this is not difficult to do, considering how much one forged wheel weighs), then the smoothness of the ride will be the same as if you had four passengers in the cabin. Overclocking characteristics will remain at the same level.

The answer to the question “Which wheels are lighter, forged or cast?” everyone knows. For example, one original 20-inch alloy wheel for Range Rover weighs about 25 kilograms. A forged analogue with a maximum static load for the same car is about 13 kilograms. Each wheel is approximately 12 kg lighter. As a result, forged wheels reduce unsprung mass almost half a ton, and improved ride smoothness is achieved without loss of dynamics and acceleration characteristics.

Brief comparison of the weight of the main types of rims

  • Steel wheels made using stamping technology are the heaviest and most losing option. Many car owners prefer to change such wheels to lighter ones immediately after purchasing a car. The only advantage of this category is its reasonable price.
  • Aluminum cast wheels provide a weight saving of approximately 20% compared to steel counterparts. In addition, they have a beneficial effect on the cooling of the brake system and are easy to process, which simplifies repairs and allows the use of unique design solutions for custom manufacturing.
  • Forged wheels ensure minimal weight. A special technology for the production of forged wheels (hot stamping method) makes it possible to reduce weight by 20–50% compared to analogues made of aluminum and steel, respectively. And due to its unsurpassed ductility (if there is a strong impact, the disc does not burst, but is only slightly deformed), reliability increases. Even taking into account the fact that forged wheels are more expensive than their cast or steel counterparts, the increase dynamic characteristics, improved braking properties and maximum safety justify all expenses.

Conclusion

We hope our article about how to choose wheels for a car yourself has brought a little clarity and understanding and will make it easier for you in the future. right choice at the time of buying.

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