How to make a lamp from diodes. DIY LED lamp made from fluorescent

In this article we will look at examples of making homemade LED lamps for various needs.

1. The simplest lamp for household needs.

First, you need to decide which LEDs are best to use. If you choose between powerful and low-power ones, the former are better in terms of labor intensity. To replace one powerful 1 W LED, you will need 15-20 low-power 5 mm or SMD LEDs. Accordingly, soldering with low-power ones is much greater. Let's focus on the powerful ones. They are usually divided into two types - lead-out and surface-mount. To make life easier, it is better to use output ones. It is better to choose LED power no more than 1 W.

We will also need a current driver so that the LEDs receive the necessary voltage and last a long time.
In addition, for long work LEDs (especially high-power ones) require a radiator. Aluminum is best suited for its manufacture. For each one-watt LED you need a piece of aluminum 50x50 mm, about 1 mm thick. The piece may be smaller if it is bent. If you take a piece of 25x25 mm and a thickness of 5 mm, you will not get the desired effect. To dissipate heat, you need area, not thickness.

Let's consider a model of the simplest lamp. We will need: three 1 W LEDs, a 3x1 W driver, double-sided heat-conducting tape, a radiator (for example, a piece of U-shaped profile 1 mm thick and 6-8 cm long).

Thermal tape can conduct heat. Therefore, ordinary double-sided tape will not work. Cut a strip of tape 6-7 mm wide.

We degrease the radiator and the bottoms of the LEDs. It is not advisable to use acetone for this - the plastic lens of the LED may become cloudy.

Place tape on the radiator. Then we mark the radiator to install the LEDs evenly.

We install the LEDs on the tape. At the same time, we observe polarity - all LEDs must be rotated equally so that the “plus” of one LED faces the “minus” of the neighboring one. Lightly press them to better contact. After this, we apply tin to the leads of the LEDs to facilitate further soldering. If you are concerned that the tape may burn out, simply lift the leads of the LEDs so that they do not touch the tape. At the same time, you need to hold the LED housing with your finger so that it does not come off the tape. However, you can bend the conclusions in advance.

We connect the LEDs to each other. For this, a core from any stranded wire is quite sufficient.

Solder the driver.

The simplest model of the lamp is ready. Now you can insert it into any suitable housing. Of course, you can make a more powerful lamp, you just need more diodes and a more powerful driver, but the principle will remain the same. This technique is suitable for both the manufacture of a single lamp and small-scale production.

2. Chandelier based on LEDs.

We will need:
1. Base from a burnt-out energy-saving lamp.
2. Two grips (to connect to the LED);
3. Powerful ten-watt LED, color of your choice;
4. Two small screws;
5. One ten watt LED driver;
6. Thermal paste;
7. Radiator;
8. Heat shrink tube (or insulating tape);
9. wires with a cross section of 2 mm.

First you need to disassemble the old or burnt energy saving lamp. It is important to be careful not to damage the glass flask. Otherwise, mercury gas, which is very harmful to health, will come out of it.

We only need the part of the case with the base. Let's cut off the leads from the board going to the base and solder our own leads coming from the LED driver, insulating them with heat-shrinkable tubes.

Using a soldering iron, we will make a couple of holes for the wire, which will hold the entire structure.

Next, we use the terminals, crimp them, and connect them to the LED, observing the polarity. Let's check. It is not recommended to look at the LED when it is on. The light intensity is very strong and may harm your eyes. If everything works, we assemble the lamp into a single whole.

The LED is very bright and casts harsh shadows. You can make the light smoother and softer by using a homemade diffuser. Many different materials can be used as a diffuser. The simplest one is to cut out the bottom of a two-liter plastic bottle and sand it on all sides to make it completely opaque to direct light. We make four holes and attach it to the radiator with wire.

3. Home LED lamp.

As a light source we use Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs with a power of 3 W and a light output of 278 lm. The LED will be placed on a heatsink measuring 5x5 cm, removed from the old processor motherboard.

For simplicity, we will use a pulse source together with an electronic adapter that will provide the necessary voltage and current to power the LEDs. For this purpose, in our case, a non-working charger was selected mobile phone having, according to the manufacturer, an output voltage of 5 V and a current of 420 mA.

To protect from external influences, the entire electronic part will be placed in a socket from an old lamp.

According to the manufacturer's instructions, Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs can operate at a maximum current of 1 A at 4.1 V. Logically, for normal operation we need a 1 Ohm resistor to lower the voltage by about one volt of the five that the charger gives in order to get the required 4.1 V, and this is only if the charging produces a maximum current of 1 A. However, as it later turned out, A charger with a design current limitation of 0.6 A works without problems. Testing chargers for other mobile phones in the same way, it was found that they all have a current limit of 20-50% higher than that specified by the manufacturer. The meaning of this is that any manufacturer will strive to develop a power supply so that it does not overheat even if the powered device is damaged or short circuited, and the easiest way in this case is to limit the current.

Thus, we have a constant current source limited to 0.6 A, powered by alternating current 230 V, made by factory method and having small sizes. However, during operation it only heats up slightly.

Let's move on to assembly. First, you need to open the power supply in order to remove the parts that will be inserted into the body of the new lamp. Since most power supplies are connected by soldering, we open the unit with a hacksaw.

In order to secure the board in the lamp body, in our case we used sanitary silicone. Silicone was chosen for its resistance to high temperatures.

Before closing the lamp, we attach the radiator to the cover (using bolts) to which the LED was attached.

The lamp is ready. The power consumption is just under 2.5 W, the luminous flux is 190 lm, which is ideal for an economical, long-lasting and durable table lamp.

4. Lamp in the corridor.

To illuminate the hallway with LED lights, we used two Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs, each of which has a power of 3 W and a light output of 278 lm and is powered by an old mobile power supply Samsung phone. And although the manufacturer specified a current of 0.7 A in the specification, after measurements it was found that it is limited to 0.75 A.

The manufacturing scheme for the lamp base is similar to the previous version. The entire external structure is assembled using textile Velcro, glue and plastic washers from motherboards.

The total consumption of this design is about 6 W with a luminous flux of 460 lm.

5. Lamp in the bathroom.

For the bathroom, we used a Cree XM-L T6 LED powered by two LG phone chargers.

Each of chargers can produce 0.9 A current according to the manufacturer, but I found that the actual current is 1 A. Both power supplies are connected in parallel to produce a current of 2 A.

With such indicators, the LED lamp will produce a luminous flux of 700 lm with a power consumption of 6 W.

6. Kitchen lamp.
If for the hallway and bathroom there was no need to provide a certain minimum of illumination, then this is not the case in the kitchen. Therefore, it was decided to use not one, but two series-connected Cree XM-L T6 LEDs for the kitchen, each of which has a maximum power consumption of 9 W and a maximum luminous flux of 910 lumens.

For effective cooling, in our case, we used a heatsink removed from Slot 1 of the Pentium 3 processor, to which both LEDs were attached using ArcticAlumina hot-melt adhesive. Although Cree XM-L T6 LEDs can consume a current of 3 A, the manufacturer recommends using a current of 2 A for reliable operation, at which they create a luminous flux of about 700 lm. A generating 12V at a current of 1.5A was used as a power source. After testing it with resistors, it was found that the current was limited to 1.8A, which is very close to the desired value of 2A.

To protect the heatsink and two LEDs, we used two plastic washers from the motherboard and two neodymium magnets taken from a damaged DVD drive, securing them with superglue and textile Velcro.

The LED light was expected to produce 1200 lumens, comparable to the 23W fluorescent bulb it was replacing, but it was found that the light emitted was actually even more intense, with a power consumption of around 12W - almost half that of the old bulb .

7. Office lamp
We will need:

1. LED strips 4 pcs (on powerful American CREE diodes)
2. Suitable driver (power supply) 1 pc.
3. Metal body of the future lamp.
4. Wiring, soldering iron, hand tools and fastening lamp.

You can use the body of an old lamp to make it

Or use a special aluminum profile with glass. In this case, the driver is installed inside the profile.

We install 4 diode strips.

We attach it to the ceiling (with cables) + install frosted glass.

Option of LED lamp in housing (from fluorescent 2x36W)

With glass

Or you can put everything in office lamp 600x600 mm.

Well, as a bonus, let’s look at a few examples of decorative lamps based on LEDs.

For a decorative lamp we will need:
- 4 wooden planks of the same size;
- drill with 15 mm drill bit;
- wood glue;
- stain for wood;
- brush with pencil;
- sandpaper;
- LED candles.
First of all, you need to make several holes in each board with a drill, having previously made markings with a pencil - this way we will get a kind of pattern of circles.

Apply stain to wood.

Using glue, we connect 4 planks into a lamp.

We go over the lamp with sandpaper to give it a vintage look.

We place LED candles inside the lamp.

The night light is ready.

9. Lamp in oriental style.
We use cans of PVA glue as shades for lamps.

We will need:
- 2-3 cans of PVA glue
- cartridges, wire
- scissors, sharp knife
- hot glue gun
- bamboo napkins or straw ceiling tiles

First you need to cut the napkins into pieces of the required size.

On the base of the can, use a marker to circle a socket with a 1-watt LED and cut out a circle with a knife.

Then use a hot glue gun to glue the napkins to the jars.

TO empty places glue the tape.

At this stage you can already see how it will glow.

All that remains is to decorate the braid with wooden beads at the joints.

For safety reasons, you need to drill holes for ventilation. You can have more, but they still won’t be visible.

That's all, the lamp is ready.

10. Unusual decorative lamp.

Making a lamp with your own hands began with drawing preliminary sketches on paper. There was a desire for the lamp not only to be curved in a plane, but also in space, and have a bizarre 3D wave shape.

After the sketch on paper is ready, we begin making the lamp. Each pipe in the drawing was measured, and the pipes were cut according to these dimensions. To obtain the required angles, templates were cut out of paper and attached with tape to the pipe.

All pipes were laid out on the table and adjustments were made to the waveform

The cuts were made on a stationary circular saw. This produces smooth, burr-free cuts with a width of 2 mm.

Now you need to connect all the pipes into one. the main task make smooth bends; for this it will not hurt to use a template (fibreboard sheet) on the table.

Since the pipes are cardboard, they can be connected using PVA glue, but I would recommend using glues that harden stronger and faster (moment, superglue).

WITH reverse side Wooden strips were screwed onto self-tapping screws so that the homemade lamp could be hung on the wall. And holes were drilled in each pipe to output wires from the LED strips.

The pipes were painted with regular spray paint. The color red was used, since the wall on which the lamp was to be located was white, I wanted to get some contrast.

The paint dries very quickly, so you can begin installing the LEDs. The main thing to remember is that you can cut the LED strip only in specially marked places. The tape must be marked in advance so that it is enough for all 12 pipes.

We solder red wires to the “+” contact, and black wires to the “-” contact, so as not to confuse the polarity later.

We place the LED strips inside the pipes and fix them with the adhesive side to the pipe wall, and route the wires through pre-made holes. All that remains is to connect all the wires in parallel (connect red to red, and black to black) and connect to the power supply.

Now it's time to hang your homemade lamp on the wall.
The lamp is ready.

Economical semiconductor elements, from which you can make LED lamps with your own hands, appeared on our market relatively recently. The first samples of products made from LED lamps were developed back in 1962, but their quality left much to be desired ( modern models– in the photo below).

This was explained by the fact that a homemade LED lamp in those years could only be made on the basis semiconductor devices emitting in a very narrow range of the light spectrum (red only). In addition, these elements had a high cost, as a result of which it was not feasible from an economic point of view to make homemade illuminators from them. With the advent of new technologies, it was possible to expand the emission spectrum of semiconductor components to yellow, green and white colors.

At the same time, the cost of these products sharply decreased, so the task of making a lamp from LEDs with your own hands no longer seemed so difficult to accomplish.

Features of choosing LEDs

Requirements for lighting elements

Before you make an LED lamp with your own hands, you definitely need to decide which emitting diodes are optimally suited for these purposes.

Additional Information. In general, it is possible to make a lamp based on LEDs only if their efficiency exceeds 50% (compare: for a conventional incandescent lamp this figure is only 3.5-4%).

Features of the selection of these elements require taking into account the following determining factors:

• The ability to obtain a do-it-yourself lamp made from LEDs (red, yellow, green or white) suitable for given conditions. A sample of a product with a white glow is shown in the photo below;

• High luminous efficiency of a homemade lamp;
• Low power consumption when powered from a household network;
• Long service life (at least 30,000 hours) and environmental friendliness;
• Reliability of the LED design (ability to withstand an unlimited number of switches on and off).

These products must provide the ability to control the intensity of the light flux, as well as ensure low temperature in the area where the emitting elements are located.

Selection order

All the above conditions are fully satisfied by modern LED lamps for the home, the range of which is widely represented on the domestic market.

Let us add to this that the manufacture of a homemade structure will not require the expenditure of additional material resources. For these purposes, old electronic components and products containing the corresponding parts may well be suitable.

An excellent example of a rational approach to their manufacture can be a lamp from a TV with an LCD screen (not working for some reason), from which you can “borrow” working LED backlights. An example of such a display is shown in the photo below.

Lamp design and circuit

Design Features

In order to have a clear idea of ​​how to make an LED lamp with your own hands, first of all, you need to decide on the following questions:

• Type and supply voltage of a diode light bulb, soldered from an old device and intended for use in a lamp;
• The number of emitting lamps required to obtain the required light output;
• Possible diagrams for connecting them to a household power supply circuit, used specifically for LEDs.

If you make your own LED light bulb from improvised materials and old elements, before using them you need to decide on the voltage that will be supplied to it.

Important! Before assembling an electronic circuit, you should definitely check the functionality of used products by applying operating voltage to them from external source(battery, for example). In this case, one should not forget about observing the polarity of the inclusion of semiconductor elements.

To obtain the required light output, you will need to connect the required number of them in series to provide the given emitting power. This option is most often explored in the case when an LED chandelier is made by hand (it may include several separate lamps).

Circuit solutions and details

Most modern LEDs are designed for relatively low constant voltages (from 4.5 to 12 Volts), as a result of which special converting circuits are used to connect them to the power supply network.

Additional Information. The best option is a circuit that operates on the principle of pulse conversion (it can be taken from an energy-saving lamp, the lamp of which has burned out, but the electronic ballast module is still working).

Due to the possibility of such a choice, a DIY table LED lamp made from old parts and blanks must be equipped with a standard base suitable for a classic socket.

To power such LED lamps, a simple rectifier circuit is sometimes used semiconductor diodes, designed for a voltage of about 400 Volts. A limiting resistor is connected in series with the diode bridge, the resistance of which is sufficient to reduce the potential on the light bulb to 5-12 Volts.

We assemble the working circuit in such a way that an electrolytic capacitor with a nominal capacity of 500 to 2200 microfarads (the more, the better) is connected in parallel to the rectifier bridge with a resistor. This element, designed for approximately 25 Volts, is necessary for the final rectification of the supply voltage (smoothing out residual ripples).

Strip LEDs

The strip design is a set of identical LEDs, combined according to a certain pattern during their production (that is, in the factory). It already has a built-in limiting element (resistor) and can be cut into separate sections connected into parallel, mixed and serial chains.

Additional Information. Strip LED structures are generally designed to constant pressure 12V (as well as 24, 36 and 220 Volts), which is supplied to them from a ready-made rectifier unit.

Due to an arbitrary combination of sections connected in different ways, it is possible to obtain lighting devices with a given illumination and power consumption. To connect such a design to a 220V household network, you will need a special module that reduces the supply voltage to the required value.

Any homemade lamp from LED strip must be calculated for a certain number of elements, on which the total luminous flux of the finished product will depend (a sample of it is given below).

A classic do-it-yourself LED strip lamp assembled from a set of a certain length can be made as a floor lamp with four edges, each of which contains a section of 5-7 diodes.

The strip of LEDs placed in this way is connected in parallel with the remaining segments and connected to a power supply unit designed for an output voltage of 12 Volts and a load current of about 0.5 Amperes.

Thus, seemingly at first difficult question how to make a lamp from an LED strip can actually be solved quite simply if you have it at your disposal required block nutrition.

Homemade lamps in the car

Automotive homemade products for car interior lighting are noticeably easier to manufacture than the previously discussed products. The fact is that in this case the user already has at his disposal the vehicle’s on-board voltage of 12 Volts, the connection of which to the lamp should simply be arranged accordingly.

To do this, you can use the cigarette lighter socket in the car, which receives constant voltage from the battery. Thus, in order to connect an LED lamp used for a car, it is enough to purchase a matching part of the cigarette lighter socket (see the figure below).

After soldering the supply wires to the proprietary connector, based on all the parts of the power supply assembly assembled together, a ready-made module is obtained for connecting a homemade lamp.

Note! In this case, a strip LED design rated for 12 Volts can also be used in its manufacture, although a special driver will be required to connect it.

In conclusion of the review, we note that a DIY LED lamp or luminaire is almost in no way inferior to a branded product. If you comply with all the conditions discussed above, then, as a rule, no problems arise with their manufacture and operation.

Video

In this article we will inspire you with various ideas for creating lamps with your own hands. And most importantly, we will offer light sources that can be easily and conveniently designed into the most unusual design solutions. You won't need to think about where to find LEDs, a platform for gluing them, soldering wires and other technical things. We have already thought for you and are freeing up your time for imagination and bright ideas for decorating a lamp!

They realize incredible ideas with their own hands from wood, metal, fabric, paper, plastic or thread. An example of creating a lamp from plastic cups:

DIY floor lamp made from paper cups and garlands.

DIY table LED lamp made of cardboard. There is a LED light bulb hidden inside.

DIY antique ceiling lamp.

DIY LED wall lamp made of paper (origami).

LED wall lamp made of plywood.

The use of decorative homemade lamps

Homemade lamps perfectly serve as decorative lighting. They are rarely used for main lighting. For manufacturing, materials that do not transmit light well are used, and light sources are limited in size or power. To avoid damage to the structure, it is recommended to use low-heat LED lamps or strips as a light source, which, unlike incandescent lamps, do not pose a fire risk.

Homemade lamps as main lighting

Homemade lamps are increasingly used as main lighting thanks to technologically advanced, powerful and safe sources Sveta.

Homemade lamp based on Armstrong 595x595 LED lamp.

LED lamp for main lighting.

DIY ceiling lamp made of paper. safe as a light source in this design,because it doesn't heat up.

How to make an LED lamp with your own hands?

Homemade LED lamp based on the Armstrong 600x600 LED panel.

Steel is a powerful alternative for making lamps with your own hands from improvised materials. A variety of sizes and shapes allows you to create floor, wall, ceiling or pendant lamps of unusual design and high power. Used to repair an old lamp or to develop your own unique lighting design.

for repairing and replacing an old lamp or creating a new lamp with your own hands.

LED module with light temperature control and remote control remote control.

The driver and all the necessary electronics are already built into the . Unlike LED strips, the matrix (module) is connected directly to a 220 volt network. The OPPLE LED module is compact in size, has clever cooling, and each LED on it is equipped with its own lens for the most uniform distribution of light.

Lens on each LED for the most even distribution of light.

A small 12 W module (analogous to 95 W) is suitable for homemade decorative lamps:

Decorative LED lamp made of antique wood.

DIY pendant lamp made of paper (origami kusudama).

For the brightest solutions, designed (600 W analogue) with a remote control, brightness adjustment (built-in dimmer) and variable light temperature from warm light (3000 K) to cold light (6000 K).

How to make a bright LED lamp from scrap materials with a remote control, adjustable brightness and light temperature from warm to cold.

It became possible to make original lamps technologically advanced and even more unusual thanks to various light settings. Now you can play with the temperature of the light (from yellow to white) and adjust the brightness of the light.

It is important that OPPLE LED modules have a well-thought-out cooling system and they hardly heat up. This makes it possible to create design solutions from your favorite materials: lamps made of wood, pendant lamps made of paper, wall lamps made of plywood, floor lamps made of scrap materials. Now it’s easier than ever to create homemade LED lamps with your own hands.

DIY table lamp (night light) made of wood (plywood).

Homemade LED (LED) lamp made of paper.

DIY ceiling pendant lamp in loft style.

In order to make the interior of an apartment, country house or office cozier and more comfortable, it is necessary to periodically change the lighting system. It is not necessary to spend money on this; you can use materials that are used in everyday life. Every twig, jar and some wooden products can be used in making lamps with your own hands.

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What materials are best used to make a lamp?

The main element of any lamp is the lamp. It is better to use LED lamps, as they do not emit heat.

To give a second life to lamps, you can use:

• yarn;
• bottles;
• paper;
• rope;
• a thread;
• LED strip;
• phytodiode;
• banks.

These materials make original and presentable lighting fixtures.

Photo gallery

Below are samples of products made from scrap materials.

Wine bottle sconce Lamp made from branches

LED strip lamp

Before you start upgrading or manufacturing a lamp from LED strip, you need to study the properties of LEDs:

1. They dazzle the human eye, so they should be mounted under frosted glass or in niches.
2. The location for installing the controller and power supply of the tape is selected in advance during the project. These elements are necessary to maintain the performance of LEDs.
3. The tape is based on adhesive double-sided tape, which allows it to be securely attached to the installation site.
4. When assembling the chandelier, care must be taken as the tape can be easily damaged.

What you will need

To assemble and upgrade the lamp with your own hands, you need to prepare the following materials:

1. We purchase LED strip of the required length.
2. Select the power supply and controller.
3. For assembly it is necessary to use stranded wires with a cross-section of 1 mm2.
4. Glue gun and hand tools.

Step-by-step instruction

The modernization will be carried out on the basis of a fluorescent lamp consisting of four lamps for suspended ceilings in the following order:

1. Dismantling in progress attachments lamp
2. Installation of LED strip, controller and power supply.
3. Installation of frosted glass and ceiling mounting.

The Thomas Superleds channel demonstrates the modernization of the Armstrong lamp.

Photo gallery

Below are pictures of assembling the lamps step by step.

Phytodiodes connection diagram

The GrowByLEDs com channel presents a detailed production of a lamp for seedlings from phytodiodes.

Photo gallery

Installing phytodiodes on a cooling radiator Assembling the lamp frame

How to make a paper pendant lamp

In order to add brightness to your interior design, you can make a beautiful and unusual paper lamp.

It should be taken into account that only LED lamps must be used, since paper lamps tend to ignite when heated.

What you will need

You can use an old chandelier to make a paper chandelier.

The following tools and materials must be used:

• parchment paper;
• PVA glue;
• thin thread and wire;
• scissors;
• cartridge E27 and light bulb;
• sewing machine.

Step-by-step instruction

The assembly proceeds as follows:

1. We remove the frame from the old chandelier and clear it of jewelry.
2. Iron the parchment paper and cut into circles with a diameter of 8 cm.
3. All cut circles should be sewn together using a sewing machine.
4. The connection must be made in the central part of the circle.
5. We attach the sewn circles to the frame of the chandelier using wire.

After assembling all the elements, you need to screw in the LED lamp and install the chandelier in place.

The principle of making a lamp from paper can be seen in the video from the Roman Tkachev channel.

Photo gallery

To modify the paper lamp, fairly simple tools were used, which are shown below.

Frame of an old chandelier Stitching round pieces Installation of stitched elements on the frame Installation and connection of an updated chandelier

Wood lamp

Making a lamp from wood requires the ability to work with wood material.

This lamp can be used:

• in the kitchen;
• in the bath;
• in the cafe.

What you will need

To create a lamp from wood, you need to prepare the following materials:

• wood;
• LED Strip Light;
• jigsaw;
• epoxy resin;
• wires.

Step-by-step instruction

The assembly algorithm is presented as follows:

1. It is necessary to cut a block measuring 100*100*100 mm, in which you need to make a groove with a jigsaw for the LED strip.
2. You should connect the tape and fill the groove with epoxy resin and let it dry.
3. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to sand the surface of the lamp with fine sandpaper.

The principle of making a lamp from wood is shown in the video from the channel Anton Veligorsky.

Photo gallery

Making a slot for an LED strip in a workpiece Connecting a wooden lamp

Making a lamp from branches

A lamp from branches can be made after a trip to the forest, collecting branches and cones. To create such a lighting device you need to use a minimum set of materials. This original lamp can be hung on the wall.

What you will need

To make a lamp from branches you will need the following components:

• branches and cones;
• glue gun;
• wire with lamp socket;
• old vase.

Step-by-step instruction

Before assembling the lamp, it is necessary to dry the branches. Then clean the vase with coarse sandpaper and degrease for better gluing.

Assembly is carried out in the following order:

1. Cut branches of approximately the same length.
2. It is necessary to glue the seedling to the vase at a distance of 5 mm between the branches.
3. Glue the cones and shoots on top of the branches.
4. We install and connect the wire with the lamp.

The Light You channel shows how to make a lamp from branches with your own hands.

Photo gallery

Network connection Gluing branches to a vase

Interesting lamp made from rope and glue

To decorate your kitchen, you can make a lamp from waxed rope and glue. Manufacturing will not take more than an hour. It is recommended to hang several balls to fit into the interior.

What you will need

To create a rope lamp you will need the following tools and materials:

• Balloon;
• rope;
• PVA glue;
• glue gun;
• marker.

Step-by-step instruction

The build logic is presented in the following order:

1. Inflate the balloon to the desired size.
2. At the bottom of the ball we draw a circle of 10 cm to diffuse the light.
3. Pour glue into the container and soak the rope.
4. We wind the rope evenly around the ball.
5. Once the thread has dried, we pierce the ball with a needle.
6. Using a glue gun, glue the socket with the lamp to the ball of rope.
7. We install it at the installation site.

The Do it yourself channel shows step by step assembly rope lamp

Photo gallery

Winding up the rope Leave to dry Piercing the ball Installation of a finished lamp

Lamp for the children's room “The sun behind the cloud”

In a children's room, in addition to the main lighting, there should be additional lighting. As an additional option, you can make a “Sun Behind a Cloud” lamp. For manufacturing you will need a minimum set of materials.

What you will need

To create a lamp you will need the following materials:

• piece of fiberboard 30*50 cm;
• scissors;
• jigsaw;
• heat gun;
• two metal brackets for the cartridge.

Step-by-step instruction

When working on assembling a lighting fixture, you should follow the following order:

1. Cut out a sky template from paper.
2. We attach the template to a sheet of fiberboard and cut it out.
3. Install the cartridge mounting brackets.
4. We mount the cartridge together with the supply wire.
5. We fix the sky template from fiberboard and decorate it.

Below is a detailed assembly of a lamp for a children's room in a video from the Pavel Zhidovkin channel.

Photo gallery

The assembly diagram for the “Sun Behind a Cloud” lighting device is presented below.

Paper template Sky cut from fiberboard Installing the chuck Connecting the lamp to the network

How to make a portable lamp from a spotlight

A spotlight can be used not only in plasterboard structures, but also for homemade projects. In a garage or country house there is a need for portable spotlights.

What you will need

To create a portable lamp you will need the following components:

• spotlight;
• internal socket;
• cord 10 meters long;
• a piece of 110th sewer plastic pipe;
• scraps of small tin;
• aluminum rivets;
• lampshade;
• construction profile.

Step-by-step instruction

The luminaire is installed in the following mode:

1. We disassemble the spotlight and rotate the socket 180 degrees.
2. We install a socket at the bottom of the soffit.
3. We close the contact part in front with a lid, and in the back with a sewer pipe.
4. We cut out the required structure from the tin and install it to the soffit using rivets.
5. We connect the cord to the cartridge and use the carrier.

Photo gallery

Installing a chuck with a switch Mounting the socket at the bottom Making a lamp protection template Lamp protection Disassembling a spotlight Installing lamp protection

Table lamp made of threads and balls

The ball and string lamp is one of the most popular homemade lighting fixtures. The basis is taken as a regular thread. The ball can be made in literally 1 hour.

What you will need

The following set of components must be available when creating a lamp from threads:

• Balloon;
• PVA glue;
• needle;
• cartridge E27;
• power cord for connection.

Step-by-step instruction

To create a lighting fixture from threads, you need to consider the assembly option.

Is it possible to make an LED lamp (LED) operating on 220 volts from start to finish with your own hands? It turns out that it is possible. Our tips and instructions will help you in this exciting activity.

Advantages of LED lamps

LED lighting in the home is not just modern, but also stylish and bright. Conservative fans of incandescent lamps are left with weak “Ilyich bulbs” - the federal law“On Energy Saving”, adopted in 2009, from January 1, 2011, prohibits the production, import and sale of incandescent lamps with a power of more than 100 W. Advanced users have long switched to compact fluorescent lamps(CFL). But LEDs outperform all their predecessors:

• Energy consumption LED lamp 10 times less than a corresponding incandescent lamp, and almost 35% less than a CFL;
• the luminous intensity of the LED lamp is greater by 8 and 36%, respectively;
• achieving full luminous flux power occurs instantly, unlike CFLs, which require about 2 minutes;
• the cost - provided that the lamp is manufactured independently - tends to zero;
• LED lamps are environmentally friendly because they do not contain mercury;
• LED service life is measured in tens of thousands of hours. Therefore, LED lamps are practically eternal.

Dry numbers confirm: LED is the future.

Design of a modern factory LED lamp

The LED here is initially assembled from many crystals. Therefore, in order to assemble such a lamp, you do not need to solder numerous contacts, you only need to connect one pair.

Types of LEDs

LED is a semiconductor multilayer crystal with an electron-hole junction. By passing direct current through it, we receive light radiation. An LED differs from a conventional diode in that when incorrect connection it burns out immediately, since it has a low breakdown voltage (several volts). If an LED burns out, it must be completely replaced; repair is impossible.

There are four main types of LEDs:

A homemade and properly assembled LED lamp will serve for many years, and it can be repaired.

Before you begin self-assembly, you need to choose a power supply method for our future lamp. There are many options: from a battery to a 220-volt AC network - through a transformer or directly.

The easiest way is to assemble a 12-volt LED from a burnt-out halogen. But it will require a fairly massive external power supply. A lamp with a regular base, designed for a voltage of 220 volts, fits any socket in the house.

Therefore, in our guide we will not consider creating a 12-volt LED light source, but will show a couple of options for designing a 220-volt lamp.

Since we do not know the level of your electrical technical training, we cannot guarantee that you will end up with a properly functioning device. In addition, you will be working with life-threatening voltages and if things are not done accurately and incorrectly, damage and loss may occur, for which we will not be held responsible. Therefore, be careful and attentive. And you will succeed.

Drivers for LED lamps

The brightness of LEDs directly depends on the strength of the current passing through them. For stable operation, they need a constant voltage source and a stabilized current that does not exceed the maximum permissible value for them.

Resistors - current limiters - can only be used for low-power LEDs. You can simplify the simple calculation of the number and characteristics of resistors by finding an LED calculator on the Internet, which not only displays data, but also creates a ready-made electrical diagram designs.

To power the lamp from the mains, you must use a special driver that converts the input AC voltage in working conditions for LEDs. The simplest drivers consist of minimum quantity parts: an input capacitor, several resistors and a diode bridge.

In the simplest driver circuit, the supply voltage is supplied through a limiting capacitor to the rectifier bridge, and then to the lamp

Powerful LEDs are connected via electronic drivers, controlling and stabilizing the current and having high efficiency(90-95%). They provide stable current even with sudden changes in the supply voltage in the network. Resistors cannot do this.

Let's look at the simplest and most commonly used drivers for LED lamps:

• the linear driver is quite simple and is used for low (up to 100 mA) operating currents or in cases where the source voltage is equal to the voltage drop across the LED;
• The switching buck driver is more complex. It allows powerful LEDs to be powered by a source of much higher voltage than is necessary for their operation. Flaws: big size and electromagnetic interference generated by the inductor;
• A switching boost driver is used when the operating voltage of the LED is greater than the voltage received from the power supply. The disadvantages are the same as the previous driver.

In any 220 volt LED lamp to ensure optimal mode operation there is always a built-in electronic driver.

Most often, several faulty LED lamps are disassembled, the burnt-out LEDs and radio components of the driver are removed, and one new structure is installed from the intact ones.

But you can make an LED lamp from a regular CFL. This is quite an attractive idea. We are sure that many zealous owners keep faulty “energy savers” in their drawers with parts and spare parts. It’s a shame to throw it away, there’s nowhere to use it. Now we will tell you how to create an LED lamp from an energy-saving lamp (E27 base, 220 V) in just a couple of hours.

A faulty CFL always gives us a high-quality base and housing for LEDs. In addition, it is usually the gas discharge tube that fails, but not electronic device to “ignite” it. We again put the working electronics into storage: they can be disassembled, and in capable hands these parts will still serve something good.

Types of modern lamp bases

The base is a threaded system for fast connection and fixing the light source and cartridge, supplying power to the source from the electrical network and ensuring the tightness of the vacuum flask. The marking of the socles is deciphered as follows:

1. The first letter of the marking indicates the type of base:
   • B - with pin;
   • E - with thread (developed back in 1909 by Edison);
   • F - with one pin;
   • G - with two pins;
   • H - for xenon;
   • K and R - with cable and recessed contact, respectively;
   • P - focusing base (for spotlights and lanterns);
   • S - soffit;
   • T - telephone;
   • W - with contact inputs in the glass of the bulb.
2. The second letter U, A or V shows which lamps use the base: energy-saving, automotive or with a conical end.
3. The numbers following the letters indicate the diameter of the base in millimeters.

The most common base since Soviet times is E27 - a threaded base with a diameter of 27 mm for a voltage of 220 V.

Creating an E27 LED lamp from an energy-saving one using a ready-made driver

To make your own LED lamp we will need:

1. Failed CFL lamp.
2. Pliers.
3. Soldering iron.
4. Solder.
5. Cardboard.
6. Head on shoulders.
7. Skillful hands.

We will convert the faulty Cosmos CFL to LED.

Step-by-step instructions for making an LED lamp

1. We find a faulty energy-saving lamp, which we have had for a long time “just in case.” Our lamp has a power of 20 W. For now, the main component we are interested in is the base.
2. We carefully disassemble the old lamp and remove everything from it except the base and the wires coming from it, with which we will then connect the finished driver by soldering. The lamp is assembled using latches protruding above the body. You need to look at them and use something to pry them off. Sometimes the base is attached to the body in a more complicated way - by punching pinholes around the circumference. Here you will have to drill out the core points or carefully saw through them with a hacksaw. One supply wire is soldered to the central contact of the base, the second to the thread. Both of them are very short. The tubes may burst during these manipulations, so you must act carefully.
3. We clean the base and degrease it with acetone or alcohol. Particular attention should be paid to the hole, which we also carefully clean from excess solder. This is necessary for further soldering in the base.
4. The cap of the base has six holes - gas-discharge tubes were attached to them. We use these holes for our LEDs. Place a circle of the same diameter cut out with nail scissors from a suitable piece of plastic under the top part. Thick cardboard will also work. It will fix the contacts of the LEDs.
5. We have HK6 multi-chip LEDs (voltage 3.3 V, power 0.33 W, current 100-120 mA). Each diode is assembled from six crystals (connected in parallel), so it shines brightly, although it is not called powerful. Considering the power of these LEDs, we connect them three in parallel.

   Each LED shines quite brightly on its own, so six of them in the lamp will provide good light intensity

6. We connect both chains in series.

   Two chains of three parallel-connected LEDs are each connected in series

The result is a rather beautiful design.

7. A simple ready-made driver can be taken from a broken LED lamp. Now, to connect six white one-watt LEDs, we use a 220-volt driver, for example, RLD2-1.

   The driver is connected to the LEDs in a parallel circuit

8. We insert the driver into the socket. We place another cut-out circle of plastic or cardboard between the board and the driver to avoid short circuits between the LED contacts and the driver parts. The lamp does not heat up, so any gasket will do.
9. Let's assemble our lamp and check if it works.

We created a source with a luminous intensity of approximately 150-200 lm and a power of approximately 3 W, similar to a 30-watt incandescent lamp. But due to the fact that our lamp has White color glow, it visually looks brighter. The area of ​​the room illuminated by it can be increased by bending the LED leads. In addition, we received a wonderful bonus: the three-watt lamp does not even need to be turned off - the meter practically does not “see” it.

Creating an LED lamp using a homemade driver

It is much more interesting not to use a ready-made driver, but to make it yourself. Of course, if you are good with a soldering iron and have basic skills in reading electrical diagrams.

We'll look at etching the board after drawing the circuit diagram on it by hand. And, of course, everyone will be interested in tinkering with chemical reactions using available chemicals. As in childhood.

We will need:

1. A piece of copper foil on both sides of fiberglass.
2. The elements of our future lamp according to the generated diagram: resistors, capacitor, LEDs.
3. Drill or mini-drill for drilling fiberglass.
4. Pliers.
5. Soldering iron.
6. Solder and rosin.
7. Nail polish or correction pencil.
8. Table salt, copper sulfate or ferric chloride solution.
9. Head on shoulders.
10. Skillful hands.
11. Accuracy and attentiveness.

Textolite is used in cases where electrical insulating properties are required. This is a multilayer plastic, the layers of which consist of fabric (depending on the type of fibers of the fabric layer, there are basalt textolites, carbon textolites, and others) and a binder (polyester resin, bakelite, etc.):

• Fiberglass is fiberglass fabric impregnated with epoxy resin. It is characterized by high resistivity and heat resistance - from 140 to 1800 o C;
• foil fiberglass is a material covered with a layer of galvanic copper foil 35-50 microns thick. It is used for making printed circuit boards. The thickness of the composite is from 0.5 to 3 mm, the sheet area is up to 1 m 2.

Driver circuit for LED lamp

It is quite possible to make a driver for an LED lamp yourself, for example, based on the simplest circuit that we looked at at the beginning of the article. You just need to add a few details:

1. Resistor R3 to discharge the capacitor when the power is turned off.
2. A pair of zener diodes VD2 and VD3 to bypass the capacitor if the LED circuit burns out or breaks.

If we select the stabilization voltage correctly, we can limit ourselves to one zener diode. If we set the voltage to more than 220 V, and choose a capacitor for it, then we will do without any additional parts at all. But the driver will be larger in size, and the board may not fit in the base.

We created this circuit to make a lamp from 20 LEDs. If there are more or less of them, you need to select a different capacitance for capacitor C1 so that a current of 20 mA still passes through the LEDs.

The driver will lower the network voltage and try to smooth out voltage surges. Through a resistor and a current-limiting capacitor, the mains voltage is supplied to a diode-based bridge rectifier. Through another resistor, a constant voltage is supplied to the LED block, and they begin to shine. The ripples of this rectified voltage are smoothed out by a capacitor, and when the lamp is disconnected from the network, the first capacitor is discharged by another resistor.

It will be more convenient if the driver design is mounted using a printed circuit board, and is not some kind of lump in the air made of wires and parts. You can easily make the payment yourself.

Step-by-step instructions for making an LED lamp with a homemade driver

1. Using a computer program, we generate our own pattern for etching the board according to the intended driver design. Very convenient and popular among radio amateurs, free computer program Sprint Layout, which allows you to independently design printed circuit boards of low complexity and obtain an image of their layout. There is another excellent domestic program - DipTrace, which draws not only boards, but also circuit diagrams.
   

   The free computer program Sprint Layout generates detailed diagram Etching the driver board

2. We cut out a circle with a diameter of 3 cm from fiberglass. This will be our board.
3. We choose a method for transferring the circuit to the board. All methods are terribly interesting. Can:
   • draw a diagram directly on a piece of fiberglass with a stationery correction pencil or a special marker for printed circuit boards, which is sold in a radio parts store. There is a subtlety here: only this marker allows you to draw tracks less than or equal to 1 mm. In other cases, the width of the track, no matter how hard you try, will not be less than 2 mm. And the copper patches for soldering will turn out sloppy. Therefore, after applying the design, you need to correct it with a razor or scalpel;
   • print the diagram on an inkjet printer on photo paper and iron the printout to the fiberglass. The circuit elements will be covered with paint;
   • draw a diagram with nail polish, which is definitely in any house where a woman lives. This is the simplest method, and we will use it. Carefully and carefully, using a brush from a bottle, draw tracks on the board. We wait until the varnish dries well.
4. We dilute the solution: stir 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate and 2 tablespoons of table salt in boiling water. Copper sulfate is used in agriculture, so it can be bought in gardening and construction stores.
5. We immerse the board in the solution for half an hour. As a result, only the copper traces that we protected with varnish will remain; the rest of the copper will disappear during the reaction.
6. Use acetone to remove the remaining varnish from the fiberglass laminate. You immediately need to tin (coat with solder using a soldering iron) the edges of the board and the contact points so that the copper does not quickly oxidize.

   The contact points are soldered with a layer of solder mixed with rosin to protect the copper tracks from oxidation

7. According to the diagram, we make holes with a drill.
8. We solder the LEDs and all the details of the homemade driver on the board from the side of the printed tracks.
9. We install the board into the lamp body.

   After all the operations performed, you should get an LED lamp equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent lamp

Safety Notes

1. Although self-assembly LED lamp installation is not a very complicated process; you shouldn’t even start it if you don’t have at least basic electrical knowledge. Otherwise, the lamp you assembled with internal short circuit can harm everyone electrical network your home, including expensive electrical appliances. The specificity of LED technology is that if some elements of its circuit are connected incorrectly, then an explosion is even possible. So you have to be extremely careful.
2. Typically the luminaires are used at 220 VAC. But designs designed for a voltage of 12 V cannot be connected to a regular network under any circumstances, and you must always remember this.
3. In the process of making a homemade LED lamp, the components of the lamp often cannot be immediately completely isolated from the 220 V supply network. Therefore, you can be seriously shocked. Even if the structure is connected to the network via a power supply, it is quite possible that it has simple diagram without transformer and galvanic isolation. Therefore, you should not touch the structure with your hands until the capacitors are discharged.
4. If the lamp does not work, then in most cases poor-quality soldering of parts is to blame. You were inattentive or acted hastily with the soldering iron. But don't despair. Keep trying!

Video: learning to solder

It’s a strange thing: in our age, when stores have absolutely everything, usually inexpensive and very varied, after twenty years of euphoria, people are increasingly returning to doing household things with their own hands. Handicrafts, carpentry and plumbing skills flourished beyond belief. And simple applied electrical engineering is confidently returning to this series.