How to turn your computer into a server. VPN and *nix systems

In almost any local computer network, a file server is in demand. Data storage is also necessary in a “homemade” network - on the scale of a home, village, school, or holiday village. This is simply convenient when there is a separate storage for “heavy” content - HD videos, music, software, etc. But a branded file server is not a cheap pleasure. You can save a lot of money by turning your old PC into a home file server. To do this, you just need to install special software and configure it.

In fact, we will make our own NAS (Network Attached Storage) - network system data storage, network storage. That is, a computer with some disk array connected to a local network and supporting operation according to the protocols adopted in it.

In our example, we use the FreeNAS distribution to organize a NAS. FreeNAS is a free operating system for network-attached storage. FreeNAS is based on FreeBSD using Samba and PHP, and supports software RAID. It can be accessed via CIFS (SMB), Apple Mac AFP, FTP, SSH, iSCSI and NFS protocols. To run FreeNAS, you need a computer with an i386 or x86-64 processor, with at least 128 MB of RAM and 500 MB of disk space. It also requires the ability to boot from an optical drive.

We will look at installing and configuring the 7th branch of FreeNAS. Since FreeNAS is based on FreeBSD, the list of supported hardware is the same. As practice shows, for normal operation The system requires at least 512 MB of RAM. For a home NAS, 1-2 GB of memory will be more than enough.

The main component of a home NAS is hard drives. It is clear that, if possible, you should choose capacious HDDs with a large buffer and a rotation speed of 5400-5900 RPM - they will not make much noise and heat up during operation. But the advantage of the described system is precisely that it can be assembled from a bunch of various old hard drives, combining them into a disk array. At the same time, for SATA drives it is worth setting the BIOS to IDE compatibility mode.

FreeNAS does not require a powerful system - an old Pentium or Athlon will suffice. If the NAS system is being built from scratch, a board with an Intel Atom chip and passive cooling- such a platform will be quiet, cool and energy efficient. It also makes sense to reduce video memory to a minimum. During installation we will also need a CD drive - then you can turn it off.

Having assembled the system, install FreeNAS. Download the ISO image of the system, write it to CD, point it to BIOS loading from the optical drive and reboot. The bootloader offers several options for starting the system. When booting into default mode, FreeNAS displays the main menu.

We select the Full installation option and indicate the disk on which we will install the OS. It is advisable to allocate approximately 500 MB of disk space for the OS partition. Installation only takes a couple of minutes, after which you need to reboot. The optical drive can already be disabled.

The first step is to change the network interface settings. We select item number two in the menu - if the local network has an addressing different from 192.168.1.0/24. It is best to set a static IP address for the file server - just remember to specify the address of the default gateway and DNS server.

Once these settings are applied, the monitor and keyboard can also be disabled. Next, all setup will take place only through the web interface at http://ip-address-NAS/ (we set it earlier). The default login is admin, password is freenas.

Having entered under them, we go to System section> General Setup. There we change the interface language, set the clock, and, if necessary, enable synchronization with the NTP server. We save and update the control page. Don’t forget to change the password to enter the web interface, save again, exit and log in again.

Now you need to connect the swap partition. We go to the “Diagnostics” > “Information” > “Partitions” section and look there for information about the disk partition. Our disk is divided into three sections of different sizes - for the OS, data and swap. Determine the path to the swap partition. The disk name in our example is /dev/ad0 (it can be seen at the top); judging by its size (256 MB), it is clear that the third partition is used for swap. The path to it will look like /dev/ad0s3. During installation, this path was shown to us immediately after formatting the disk. Go to the path "System" > "Advanced" > "Swap file", select the device type and specify the path. Let's save.

Now you need to add disks to the system. Go to "Disks" > "Management" and click on the list. Select the required disk from the list. Enable SMART support. If you use only one disk (on which the OS is installed), select UFS with Soft Updates. When adding another, already formatted data drive, you must specify the appropriate file system type. Click "Add".

If the system was assembled using disks that have not yet been formatted, then go to the "Disks" > "Format" section, select required disk and format it. Experts recommend using UFS, although it is not required.

Next, we mount all the HDDs we used. To do this, go to “Disks” > “Mount Point”, click the plus sign, select “disk” as the type, then the drive itself, indicate the partition number and file system type, and also enter the name of the mount point. Note that for each disk they must be unique. Click the "Add" and "Apply changes" buttons. The basic installation of FreeNAS is complete.

Now let's open access to the NAS over the network. To do this, you will need to enable the CIFS/SMB (NetBIOS) service. Change the name in settings working group, name of the NAS on the network, set the encodings, turn on the time server and enable AIO. Leave other parameters as default, and then click “Save and restart”. Next, you should add at least one network resource: specify the name and comment, as well as the path to it.

Initially, all mount points are located in the /mnt directory. Accordingly, the path to the root of the drive looks like this: /mnt/mount_point/ (in our case - /mnt/data/). When setting up, it is recommended to create several folders in the root of the disk and add them to network resources. If the NAS contains several disks, they should all be “shared” in the same way.

Now in network environment Windows can see the created file server with full access. To manage files and folders directly from the web interface, use the file manager from the "Advanced" section. The login and password for it are similar to those for FreeNAS users.

SMB resources are used on the local network; For external access, you must enable the FTP server. Accordingly, you need to open TCP port 21 on the router, and also enable the DDNS service (present in FreeNAS). In the FTP service settings, we allow only authorized users to log in. Save the settings.

User management - through the "Access" > "Users" section. For user access to the FTP server, specify ftp as the main group.

In the case of a NAS for a home network (as in our case), it is also worth enabling the Transmission Bittorrent client built into FreeNAS. In its settings we specify the folder where the downloaded files will be stored. Then we select a directory to track torrent files - as soon as a torrent is uploaded to it, Transmission will automatically add the download. The default link to the Bittorrent client web interface looks like http://ip-address-NAS:9091/.

Well, lastly, we set up the UPnP media server. Here you just need to specify the folders with media files and select the directory in which the database of this service will fit. We also indicate a suitable profile for compatibility with network media players. If you need additional settings, click on the link at the bottom of the settings page.

When everything is configured, Windows easily identifies the NAS as a network media device and allows you to directly listen to music from it, view videos and pictures.

This whole procedure has been described more than once in various sources on the RuNet. In practice, we used it when we made a collective file server for our home network - in my house it unites more than fifty PCs. We assembled the NAS by stuffing an old desktop with hard drives - mostly not new either. However, everything works quite fine. We installed the assembled file server in one of the apartments - in the same place where there is an ADSL modem serving the home network.

Victor DEMIDOV

Your first home server I assembled in 2008: Celeron E1400 on the ASUS mATX platform and all this in an excellent Antec NSK 1380 case. The case is really good except for two points: 1. Non-standard format of the power supply (and, as a result, the ability to install only low-profile cooling on the processor) 2. A small number of seats for drives and poor cooling (that's why I never put more than one disk there - and it was so cramped and hot).

This machine coped with the role of a router perfectly. But organizing a file dump on it already created inconvenience: space always runs out -> you have to change the disk to a new larger one (well, don’t really clean it!) -> for this you need to transfer the system to a new disk -> if you transfer it, then it’s not Is it possible to update it at the same time, otherwise you have to look for packages with new time zones for the current one almost like dogs (ardent greetings to Fedora) -> ... And so every time.

I wanted to build a new server that would allow me to organize RAID or at least simply install several disks in order to solve the space problem radically and permanently. And also raise a few virtual machines for production needs. And also...

But the most important argument is, of course, the desire to touch new pieces of hardware! So I decided on the requirements and went to the store to Google.

Requirements:

• noiselessness
• compactness
• possibility of convenient installation/replacement of disks and a sufficient number of seats (from 4)
• versatility (more connectors/interfaces, all sorts of different ones, you never know what you want to screw on)

The Mini-ITX form factor was not a mandatory criterion, but it logically followed from the second point. Therefore, I decided for myself that I would try to get the maximum out of it and only as a last resort would I start looking towards mATX.

Disclaimer

Hardware selection

1. Body

The first thing I did was look for the case. There are now a great many of them for Mini-ITX, but most are intended for inexpensive nettops.

The options suitable for a home server/NAS can be counted on one hand:

	Fractal Design Array R2		CFI-A7879
	Chenbro ES34069		Chenbro SR30169

and a couple of others.

Moreover, most of them are difficult or impossible to buy in Russia. In the end I chose Chenbro SR30169. Its main advantages: convenient installation four 3.5″ drives (with HotSwap support), thoughtful cooling using 120mm fans, a standard power supply (the vast majority of other cases use Flex ATX or non-standard form factors), ease of installation.

Video about the internal structure:

2. Motherboard

Criteria:
modern platform with processor support Ivy Bridge, 2 built-in network cards, PCI-E connector (for WiFi installations), at least four SATA connectors (but ideally at least five - 4 in the raid + 1 for the system), miniPCI-E just in case, a sufficient number of USB ports (preferably 3.0), several video interfaces (I didn’t know which which interface will have to be connected, so at a minimum I wanted HDMI and D-Sub)

	Intel® Server Board S1200KP		Intel® Server Board S1200KPR
	ZOTAC Z77ITX-A-E		Jetway NF9E-Q77

The first two are quite specific. On the one hand, they support Xeon processors and ECC memory, on the other hand, expansion options are very limited: only four USB (and only 2.0), only four SATA, no built-in audio, one video output, only one expansion slot. Of course, these points are irrelevant for an organization’s server, but for home use I want more flexibility. In addition, the board with the KP index does not support 22nm processors, and KPR was not on sale at the time the machine was assembled (July-August 2012).
Also, the ZOTAC Z77ITX-A-E was not on sale, although the board is certainly very interesting. WiFi module included, two gigabit network cards - beauty!
Several more boards were being prepared for release at that time; I don’t know whether they came out or not, so I’m not writing about them in detail here.

The other day, a very timely user track came out about server memory failures. I strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with it before using the configuration I suggested for critical tasks.

Ultimately, I settled on the Jetway NF9E-Q77 board. It's amazing how much Jetway managed to fit into a Mini-ITX board! 3rd generation support Intel processors(LGA1155), 6 SATA ports (2xSATA3 + 4xSATA2), 2xUSB3.0 + 4xUSB2.0 (+ a pair of ports of each type with connectors on the board), PCI-E + miniPCI-E, 2 Gigabit Intel network adapters, 3 video outputs (HDMI, DVI-D, D-Sub) excluding LVDS. There are also two RS232 ports, RS422/485 from the connector on the board, GPIO, Watchdog, support for iAMT, vPro, etc.
The type of memory used is DDR3 SODIMM.

I was unable to find this board for sale in Russia, but fortunately it was found in the German store minipc.de. Delivered by courier service. Minus VAT and shipping costs it came out to exactly $200. The price for such a board is, in my opinion, more than reasonable. By the way, the board is manufactured according to standards that include industrial use, which means increased survivability (according to information from the Jetway website, the author of the article does not give guarantees =)).

3. Hard drives

For the last 10-15 years I have been using only IBM/Hitachi products. Therefore, I chose a model with the maximum volume at an adequate price (at the time of assembly it was HITACHI Deskstar 7K3000 HDS723020BLA642, 2TB) and purchased two pieces with the idea of ​​​​buying two more when I decided on the software (I had doubts that this would happen quickly - that's how it happened). Since in the selected case, in addition to four HotSwap drives, only 2.5” drives can be installed as standard, I decided to install a drive from a laptop there, which I planned to replace with an SSD anyway.
This winter we purchased two additional HITACHI Deskstar 5K3000 HDS5C3020ALA632 drives.

4. Power supply

I simply chose the power supply unit as the least powerful (and therefore cheapest) of the decent and quiet ones that were available at the nearest hypermarket.
This was AeroCool VP-450.
Of course, in such a compact case it would be better to take a power supply with removable cables, but they cost much more, and there were reviews that in this case the cable connectors could begin to conflict with the processor cooling.

5. Processor

From the processor I needed more cores, less heat and reasonable price. Although no, we still needed a built-in video chip. I chose Intel Core i5 3550.

6. CPU cooling

I wanted silence here, good cooling and at the same time not to make a mistake with the dimensions. The one that was suitable in the nearest stores was Arctic Cooling Alpine 11 Plus.

Well, the hardware has been purchased, let's start assembling!

Assembly

The author still remembers the times when marking connectors/switches on the motherboard was considered bad manners, instructions were written for underpants and therefore bears were not brought into the country, and by turning the processor the wrong way around you could quickly and very expensively get a cool keychain for your mobile phone. . Not to mention the ritual of sprinkling each assembled car with their own blood, for which the caring Chinese always left the edges of the crop sharp in case the collector forgot to take a special sacrificial knife or, due to inexperience, does not know about such a need. Unfortunately, modern manufacturers, in pursuit of profit, do not care about traditions or caring about the assembler’s leisure time. Those who hoped to shed a stingy tear of nostalgia over the article will only be disappointed by further material.

The body is made of 0.8mm thick SGCC steel and gives the impression of being solid, there are no gaps or backlashes, all edges are neatly flared. The side walls are secured with knurled screws. Most of the rear wall is occupied by the base for mounting the power supply. The remaining space is given over to the ventilation grille and connector panel motherboard. There is a retractable eyelet that allows you to close the body with a barn lock (though only on one side, which in this case is of little use) or put it on a leash. There is a slot for a Kensington lock.

Inside, the case space is divided into two parts: the back half is intended for the motherboard and power supply, while the front half is almost entirely occupied by the hard drive cage and its cooling.

The basket supports hardware RAID controllers and is designed for 4 3.5”/2.5” SATA/SAS drives with hot-swappable capability. For convenience, disks are installed from the front side of the case.

Each disc is secured with screws in the tray, which is then inserted into the basket. When turned on, each tray glows blue. It may seem that they have LEDs, but the solution is much more elegant - the indication is located on the back wall of the basket, and is brought to the front panel using optical waveguides!

To limit access to the front panel of the case, there is a flimsy plastic door with a lock. In my opinion, it could be metal, but I’m ready to forgive the manufacturer for this nuance =)

The motherboard truly amazed me! Unfortunately, the photographs do not convey the feeling of a well-made product that you feel when you hold this board in your hands. How was the manufacturer able to fit so much into this tiny thing, while not forgetting to comply with all standards for the location of components? In order not to repeat myself, I will not list all its capabilities again; those interested can refer to the first part of the article or to the specification on the Jetway website.

Despite the fact that when cooling the processor I had to give up my favorite 120mm format and agree to the compromise 92mm, I still had doubts that a sufficiently large cooler would install without incident.

AC Alpine 11 Plus is installed on plastic strips pre-attached to the board. And although these strips fit flush with the surrounding components, the only thing I had to do additionally was to remove the plastic retainer from the PCI-E x16 connector and slightly bend the tail of the connector.

To install the power supply, you need to remove the special basket at the top of the case. Then it is attached to the power supply, a small extension cord is connected to the power connector, after which the assembly is installed back into the case. Thus, the manufacturer saves us from the power cord sticking out of top cover housings.

The power supply has a whole bunch of connectors, half of which we won’t need.

All we can do is, according to the good Russian tradition, to remove them to the mezzanine. To route the cables, a clamp on double-sided tape was removed from the bins.

Now you can install the motherboard. The processor cooling was included under the power supply with a significant margin of several millimeters. While installing the board, I had to remove the air duct of the disk cage, but this is done easily.

The photo with the air duct installed back shows that the fins of the processor radiator were located exactly across the direction of air movement from the basket. And to be sure, they are separated from the air duct by memory modules. Unfortunately, this model of processor cooling does not allow it to be rotated 90 degrees.

No other nuances were found during the assembly of the machine. In particular, when I later decided to add another memory stick, I was easily able to do so without any problems. Thus, the only critical point in the assembly process is the cooling height of the processor and the PSU cable routing.

Cooling efficiency and noise

On this moment I have four 2TB Hitachi drives in my basket, their temperature does not exceed 37 degrees (34 when idle). The temperature of a 2.5" system disk is usually 31-33 degrees. Processor idle - 40 degrees.

The noise from the system mainly consists of air rustling. But to do this I had to install a speed controller on the basket fan. At normal speeds it cannot be called quiet (although the manufacturer claims the opposite in the advertising brochure). In the future I plan to replace it with something more silent.

Conclusion

When I assembled the server, I did not yet know what software to install on it and planned to include a discussion of this issue in an article. Despite the fact that in the end (may *nix fans forgive me) I settled on Windows Server 2012, for many this question remains open, comments on this topic are welcome.

P.S. The price of the system without hard drives turned out to be around 22 kilo rubles.

UPD: I want to draw your attention to the fact that I need something more than just a NAS. The same machine should be both a test environment and a development environment. Naturally, it would be better to split these roles into different machines, but my apartment is not that big. That is why hardware was chosen that is redundant for a regular NAS and that is why devices like Synology are not suitable.

With this review I am opening a new section of the site called ““. In the section, you will learn a lot of interesting things about creating your own personal server, installation of the necessary software. All this together will help you organize your server and even hosting for the site. And at home!)

Accordingly, in this review we will talk about the myths and common misconceptions about this confusing topic. Which greatly influence the user’s decision in favor of creating a home server. An example would be my personal experience in detail. This will be the best example for those who find it difficult to choose a solution for hosting a website. Home server for the site. Basic myths about home servers and reality. Let's start!

The content of the article:

Home internet server for website

Nowadays, the Internet is available in almost every home, and the cost of Internet services is decreasing. Over time, the quality of Internet speed is only growing, and so is throughput channels. All this gives us the opportunity to create a server at home. At the same time, the costs of its maintenance will be minimal compared to the costs of a hosting provider.

This is a very expensive pleasure

This is the most common myth on the Internet, that creating a server at home is expensive. In fact, it's up to you. You yourself have the right to decide on what hardware to install the server. And you decide how much to pay for the Internet. Many people do not use necessary computers under this brainchild. For example, if you bought a new PC, you don’t need to throw away the old one.

Just give it a new life, most used PCs handle simple websites well. However, I recommend using new hardware for these purposes. Buy not expensive system unit and rejoice. There will be plenty of that.

The server consumes a lot of electricity

Many people write online that maintaining a home server is expensive. To be precise, this is mostly addressed to the costs of electricity and the Internet. Well then I have a counter question, but the TV, refrigerator, kettle, iron do not consume anything at all. This is the funniest misconception on this topic. God willing, I get 30-40 watts.

It's smaller than a refrigerator. At the same time, my server works around the clock every day. You can draw conclusions about the server’s consumption of a large amount of electricity, provided that you have a whole server room at home. In this case, the cost of electricity is truly commensurate with the equipment.

Payment for Internet and IP or costly use of a server for the site

This misconception is even worse. How expensive it can be to pay for the Internet. You pay for the Internet! Pay! Let me explain in more detail:

• I use the Internet from Rostelecom. The speed is 60 MB, in fact a little higher, it costs me 490 rubles.
• Additionally, I pay for a static IP; this IP does not change the address. The service costs 150 rubles.
• In total, I pay 640 rubles for the Internet. Well, and accordingly for the domain and DNS server (once a year).

As you can see, it’s not such a big amount compared to renting a server. Moreover, in this case you pay for the Internet, as before, plus 150 rubles for static data. And in the case of renting a server, you will pay your uncle twice as much. At the same time, you will also pay for your Internet.

The server is very noisy like a turbine

A common misconception. If you use a PC or laptop for the server, then there will be practically no noise from them. Of course, real server solutions make noise like airplanes. But you must understand that such equipment is not created for home use.

Suitably equipped for the required loads. Such a server may have a huge number of cooling systems. No wonder it makes noise like a turbine. With all this, a home server usually has 3-5 coolers. Which work quietly.

Home server is vulnerable to hacker attacks

This is another serious misconception that many are afraid of. Your server cannot be vulnerable to attacks if you have configured everything correctly. Some home servers have more powerful protection than large companies. When you start making the first settings on your server. You will immediately understand which places are vulnerable. For example, this applies to ports to a greater extent. Which should be blocked from outside access. This is the most required setting security of all.

The home server will not work over a regular Internet connection

Complete nonsense! Works great, even via mobile Internet. The individuals distributing such articles have apparently never used such a server or are simply illiterate. Even a 30 MB channel is enough to run a good website. At the same time, attendance can be 1500-2000 people per day.

Moreover, it is worth considering that such a number of readers will not visit your site in one second. Even on professional hosting, the site simply cannot withstand such a huge load per second or minute. At the end of the article I will tell you in more detail all the details of creating a server. By personal example.

Only specialists and professionals in their field can configure the equipment

Such people simply did not succeed and they spread such rumors out of anger - this is a complete fallacy. Or there may be those who deliberately write such articles. Precisely in order to occupy a significant place in the search, while playing on the lack of knowledge of users of this topic. There is nothing complicated about setting up a home server. Of course, for proper operation of all software, it takes time and nerves. At the same time, there are many ready-made ones on the Internet software packages to the server.

• Tutorial

If I were an employee of a pasta factory, I would now be racking my brains over what to do with 500 packages of pasta, half a kilo each. Fortunately, when management decides to give a system administrator a bonus “in kind,” there is no threat of receiving a van of dry rations as a gift, although there is a good chance of becoming the owner of several tens of kilograms of outright scrap. However, this time I was lucky - as a corporate gift I received a pair of brand new WD Re 2004FBYZ with 2 terabytes each, and a Thermaltake Smart DPS G 750W power supply. But what to do with the disks? Installing it on a home computer is too wasteful even for me; after all, it’s Enterprise Class, and there’s no particular need. It is much more practical to build a NAS based on them. Of course, not some kind of file dump, but a highly reliable storage facility - a kind of “black box” for critical data. Plus, you can combine business with pleasure - since the decision has been made to transfer the entire infrastructure to “smart” power supplies (and this is how Thermaltake positions the Smart DPS line), it would be nice to see firsthand how it works.

But there is one catch - at the moment the proprietary application only exists for Windows. This operating system is good for a corporate data center, but terrible and extremely unprofitable for home file storage. Therefore, I decided to make two posts. In this, we'll build a NAS based on Windows Server 2008 r2 (making sure that “windows” and “home NAS” are incompatible concepts), and see what DPS G App 2.0 is capable of. In the second, we will assemble a budget NAS based on NAS4Free, creating a truly reliable system.

Preface

In order not to be bombarded with tomatoes, I want to warn you right away - the article is intended primarily for non-professionals. Although reading about Smart Power Management from Thermaltake will be interesting even for experienced administrators and enthusiasts, the main material is aimed at people who do not want to overpay for a big name, buying ready-made solutions, and at the same time are far from system administration(programmers, designers, web developers, etc.). If your hand is steady enough to assemble a computer from components, but at the same time you don’t want to deal with server software for a long time and tediously, and you’ve only seen the console in nightmares - this material is for you. If you want to look at SPM Cloud to decide how useful this system can be for you, scroll down the post to the subtitle “How smart is the smart power supply?” By the way, I warn you – there are a lot of photos and screenshots under the cut.

Simple, but tasteful

I’ll make a reservation right away - I didn’t try to build a home NAS based solely on cost. When selecting components, I focused on how suitable the components were for the task at hand, while not forgetting about the quality characteristics. Is it possible to build a budget NAS at a lower cost? Can. But at the same time you can also lose in performance and convenience, which I would not want. As a result, the following happened.

Frame. The role of the data storage case was taken on by Thermaltake Core V1 - a nice, all-metal cube with a quiet 200 mm fan behind the front bezel.

At the back there are seats for another pair of 80 mm fans, thanks to which network storage You can make it really cold.

As in others modern models, the lower compartment is reserved for the power supply. Dust protection is provided by a metal filter.

Another advantage of the Core V1 is the 4 removable walls (sides, roof and bottom), which greatly simplifies the assembly procedure. Each panel is secured with a pair of screws that can be easily removed by hand. I also really liked the implementation of the disk baskets - each of the four fixing screws received its own rubber damper, which dampens vibration quite well:

Motherboard. Here my choice fell on the GIGABYTE GA-J1800N-D2H with built-in Intel Celeron. The power of a dual-core processor with a base 2.41 GHz for a network storage device is enough for the eyes (although Windows Server will load it 100%, but “windows” are not our target platform), it is quite economical and does not require active cooling (there is no need to buy a cooler) .

Despite the cheapness, Gigabyte has introduced their proprietary features into the product: High ESD technology, which provides protection against electrostatics for microcircuits and LAN, as well as Anti-Surge IC, which prevents the motherboard from failing due to voltage surges - everything you need for truly reliable system. The only controversial point is the location of the internal USB connector close to the radiator: it is simply inconvenient to work with.

RAM. Nothing special - ordinary Transcend 2Gb DDR-III 1333Mhz in the SO-DIMM form factor. If you have an old laptop lying around in a closet somewhere, you can remove the modules from it.

Power unit. A solid Thermaltake Smart DPS G 750W, designed for high-performance PCs and server platforms, certified to the 80 PLUS Gold standard. For a full-fledged server or workstation - just right, for assembling a NAS with your own hands - it is too powerful, but during the experiment you can pamper yourself by installing nitros on a small car.

Of course, a device of this class provides for modular cable connection. The only built-in connectors are the motherboard and processor connectors (shared 4+4 pin, which came in very handy during assembly).

Flat cables provide additional convenience, although even they fit into the compact Core V1 with difficulty - the case is not designed for this. Among them was a wire for connecting the Thermaltake Smart DPS G 750W to the internal USB connector. Obviously, it ensures interaction between the on-board 32-bit microcontroller and the motherboard sensors, and is necessary for the full functioning of Smart Power Management. However, we will talk a little later about how well the monitoring system justifies itself and what features it provides.

Cooling. Two silent unregulated TITAN DC FAN. Since we want to build a quiet NAS without extra costs, this option will be the best.

HDD. Although we don’t look a gift horse in the mouth, I still think it necessary to say a few words about the heroes of the occasion – the sweet couple WD Re 2004FBYZ. After all, whatever one may say, the safety of information depends on the quality of hard drives.

If you look at the manufacturer's specifications, everything looks very tasty. Thus, the hard drives are equipped with accelerometers and pressure sensors, based on which Rotary Acceleration Feed Forward (RAFF) technology is implemented, providing protection against linear and angular vibration in real time, which increases both reliability and performance. Being a server solution, WD Re 2004FBYZ also have TLER (Time Limited Error Recovery), which limits the correction time to avoid erroneous disk loss from the RAID array. Add to this the stated MTBF of 1.2 million hours, and we get almost ideal.

However, about truthfulness beautiful words and the tricky abbreviations are difficult to judge until you try the product yourself. And here I can only say that I am typing this article on a computer, inside of which a couple of terabyte Caviar Blacks have been working for the past 6 years. And the 2.5-inch baby in the old Dell Inspirion 1501, now given to his parents, feels no worse. Actually, the transfer of infrastructure specifically to WD at my current place of work took place precisely at my instigation - I have a long-standing and very productive relationship with this brand. I have been using their discs for several years now, they have never let me down, and today I do not see any reason to change my preferences.

Flash drive. Any USB drive with a capacity of 8 GB. Of course, compact “plugs” are optimal, the body of which practically does not protrude above the connector.

Now you need to assemble a network storage from this stuff - everything is quite simple here. If you have ever assembled a computer yourself, you can handle it without any difficulties. I'll just mention a few key points:

• Additional coolers should be set to blow out - then we will achieve flowing air circulation from front to back and optimal cooling;
• When installing the motherboard, keep an eye on the metal jumper above the USB 3.0 hole on the rear panel - if you act carelessly, it can be bent and thus block the connector;
• The disc baskets are secured with a single screw, but they are installed quite rigidly and may not move right away. To remove the basket, you need to pull it away from the body and slightly downward;
• The motherboard does not provide a connection for external USB 3.0, you can safely hide this wire in the lower compartment of the case.

Entertaining mathematics

Perhaps it’s worth taking a small groove and calculating how budget-friendly our assembly turned out to be. So let's get started:

• Case: Thermaltake Core V1 – RUB 3,764.
• Power supply: As good as the Thermaltake Smart DPS G 750W is, it's too luxurious for small file storage. In the future, I plan to install the Chieftec HPS-350NS there – 1,560 rubles.
• Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-J1800N-D2H – RUB 4,436.
• RAM: Transcend SO-DIMM 2Gb DDR-III 1333Mhz x 2 – 3040 rub.
• Cooling: TITAN DC FAN (80 mm, 2000 rpm) x 2 – 404 rub.
• USB drive: 300 rubles.

Total: 13,504 rubles.

I deliberately did not take into account HDDs in order to compare with Synology products. For example, the DiskStation DS216+ will cost you 28,173 rubles, while under the hood we will see a very modest filling: Intel Celeron N3050 1.6 GHz, RAM – 1 Gb, the same two 3.5 mm drive slots. If I hadn’t gotten the WD Re 2004FBYZ for free, I would have paid another 17,660 rubles, and the final costs were close to 31 thousand - the cost of a “bare” platform of a popular brand. Yes, our assembly is less compact, but more productive and reliable, and it’s almost half the price! And if there is a difference, then pay more? This concludes the short digression - it’s time to move on and put our car into operation!

Windows Server is the worst solution for a home NAS

Even if you’ve never even seen *nixes, even if the sight of the command line makes you shiver, even if the “windows” seem familiar and instill a sense of security, don’t even think about setting up a personal Windows-based file storage. Why? I’ll tell you as I go along with this material. But first, let's look at the installation.

We will install Windows Server 2008 r2, of course, from a flash drive. To create a bootable drive, you can refer to the following instructions, or use the Windows USB/DVD Download Tool, which is also recommended on the official Microsoft blog. The same can be done using Rufus, which, moreover, can check the memory for bad blocks (one or two passes will be enough), or install in Windows mode To Go, which will allow you to run the OS directly from the device.

However, the last option is not best idea, taking into account the specifics of the work operating system and the disk space it requires, so let's make a regular bootable USB flash drive.

Now we can begin installation, and here we see the first pitfall - size. Do you want to install the Standard edition with a visual interface? Please allocate 24 gigabytes. In the case of a pair of disks, this is too wasteful. Otherwise, there are no nuances: as in the version for home use, everything comes down to “Next-Next-Done”.

Once you log in, you will see the next con: the need for activation. I don’t plan to use Windows Server as the basis for a NAS - all this is, first of all, an experiment, so I’ll limit myself to the trial that Microsoft themselves kindly provides. Launch regedit, look for the registry key

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\SoftwareProtectionPlatform\Activation\Manual

Change its value to one and reboot the machine. Now trial period increased from 3 to 30 days. In total, it can be extended up to six months using the slmgr.vbs script. The slmgr.vbs -dli command will help you find out how much time is left until the current license expires, and slmgr.vbs –rearm will reset the evaluation period (no more than three times). The process can be automated by creating a small XML file.

I would like to express one more “fairy” in the direction of the “Update Center”. More than 300 patches of various calibers were subsequently released for Windows Server 2008 r2 SP1. It will take several hours to install them all, and the patches conflict with adding server roles. That is, it is necessary to update either before or after; the process takes a lot of time and loads the system to the maximum:

There is also an unfortunate bug associated with the updates. After installing the updates, you may find that space on the system disk begins to disappear by itself. If you notice a leak, go to the C:\Windows\Temp folder. You will almost certainly see something like this:

The problem is that the archiving of update logs failed - the system is producing damaged archives with terrible speed, starting the procedure again after each error. This can be treated by deleting all files from the C:\Windows\Logs\CBS folder, after which you can safely clean the Temp directory.

However, let's move on. And the first thing you need to do is set up autologin, since the NAS will still be in home network, and entering a password every time is too tedious. Go to “Start” -> “Run”, and enter the command control userpasswords2.

Having selected the “Administrators” group, uncheck the “Require username and password” checkbox and save the selection.

Now let's look at the remote connection. The easiest way is to use the built-in desktop manager. To activate it, go to “Start” -> “Control Panel” -> “System and Security” -> “Settings” remote access”, select the second or third option (if you plan to connect the NAS to the Internet). It is also worth setting a simpler and more concise computer name on the tab of the same name.

An alternative can be LiteManager - a multifunctional and free program for private users that has a bunch of useful functions: file transfer, direct access to the console, registry editor, task manager, and a number of others. When installing the server part on the NAS, set the access password that will be used when logging in:

If you plan to connect your home NAS to the Internet, you can additionally configure an IP filter:

Make sure the LM Server is in automatic mode launch:

Also, do not forget to set a static address for our machine in the adapter properties:

Where 192.168.1.1 is the router address. Finally, enable network discovery and file and folder sharing in “Control Panel” -> “Network and Internet” -> “Network and Sharing Center” shared access” –> “Change Extra options public access."

After the operations described above, you can connect the NAS to your home network with a clear conscience. If further control will be carried out through LM Viewer, install the application on your computer and add a new connection by clicking on the plus on the toolbar and filling in the required fields:

Where 192.168.1.250 is the IP address of the NAS. Or use the built-in Windows Remote Desktop Connection utility.

Now let's create a partition to store information. Go to “Server Manager” -> “Storage” -> “Disk Management”, click right click mouse over the unallocated space on the system disk, select “Create a simple volume” and, following the wizard’s prompts, create the main “Data” partition formatted in NTFS.

You can proceed directly to raising the file server. Open “Roles” -> “Add roles” in the manager.

After the wizard's welcome window, a list of available ones will appear. We are interested in “File Services”:

In the next window, check the box next to “File Server Services Manager”; if desired, you can enable “ Windows service Search".

In “Storage Monitoring” we mark our “Data” section:

Here, by clicking the “Options” button, we set up monitoring of the volume. For convenience, you can add reports on duplicates and large files.

In “Report Parameters” we set the path for storing records:

If connected Windows Search, select indexing of the “Data” volume:

We confirm the choice and wait for the installation to complete. After this, the capabilities of the file management manager (located in “Start” -> “Administration”) will become available to us. Of the entire range of tools offered, quota management is useful for home use.

As you can see, the “Data” section has already received a “soft” quota by default. This means that if it is more than 85% full, we will receive an alert, but writing files to the NAS will still be available. Quotas can be set not only for partitions, but also for individual directories. Let's create a “Music” folder on drive “E” and set a size limit for it. Click “Create quota” and select the path:

In “Customizable Properties” we will specify a limit of 300 GB and select the “Hard” option so that music addiction does not lead to a situation where there is no space left on the disk for regular backups and important documents:

Let's add a threshold value of 85% and set the notification method:

As a result we get:

After clicking the “Create” button, the system will offer to save the settings to a template. Subsequently, this will allow us to apply similar rules to other folders in one click.

In order for the new quota to appear in the list, you must reconfigure the filter. Click on the link of the same name and select “All”:

Now the new quota is also visible on the main screen:

Another option that may be useful if your wife, children, and beloved cat also use file storage is managing file locking. It allows you to exclude loading files of certain extensions into certain directories.

Let's create a Backup directory and stop cluttering it with music and videos. To do this, just click on “Create a file blocking filter”, select the desired directory and, in our case, the preset “Block audio and video files” template.

The template contains almost all the most common formats, but you can always add new ones in the appropriate section:

By clicking on “Edit template properties”, we get to the settings menu.

Here, by clicking the “Change” button, you can call up the section for adding new extensions and removing existing ones, as well as familiarize yourself with the preinstalled ones:

All that remains is to make our folder accessible over the network. To do this, go to “Start” -> “Administration” -> “Computer Management” -> “ Shared folders” –> “Shared Resources” and create a new one. Then we simply follow the wizard’s instructions. First, specify the path to the folder:

At the next step, we set its parameters (you can leave them as default):

Setting up access permissions. For the local network you can open access to everyone, for the Internet - leave it only for administrators:

Now the “Music” folder will be accessible directly from any computer on your home network - just type the address \\NAS\Music in Explorer and log in. We will perform a similar procedure for the Backup directory, and at the same time we will check how file blocking works by trying to load a movie into it.

Access denied - everything works fine.

The final step remains - creating software RAID-1. There is nothing complicated about this: go to “Server Manager” -> “Storage” -> “Disk Management”, right-click on system disk(“Disk 1” in our example), and select “Convert to dynamic disk”.

Then click on each volume one by one, selecting “Add mirror” from the menu. All partitions will be “reflected” to the second disk and resynchronization will begin:

And here is another argument “against”. The fact is that the resynchronization process for a 2 terabyte HDD will last more than 5 hours. Disks will be checked completely, no matter how much information is recorded, and their loading will tend to 100%. Of course, WD Re can withstand even less of a test, but you won’t be able to use the NAS normally during this period: the write/read speed will drop significantly.

Speaking of speed: let's evaluate the performance of the array in real conditions. This is what I got when transferring the Rammstein discography to a network folder:

Not bad at all, but it can really be better, as NAS4Free will help us see. The free and low-resource operating system is optimal for a home NAS and is capable of working with file ZFS system, where disk mirroring is implemented much more intelligently and reliably. In this case, the process of primary synchronization is absent in principle. That's why I recommend NAS4Free for home file storage. However, we will talk about it in the next post, and now let’s get to the fun part.

How smart is a smart power supply?

Do you like real quests? I remembered them because my acquaintance with the DPS App and Smart Power Managment began with just such a miniquest. Google helpfully suggested a page for downloading the application; by clicking on the coveted button, I saw this form:

Nothing unusual - many companies ask for your email for newsletters. However, when I entered my address, instead of the utility I received:

Even without a translator, it is clear that the requested page was not found. What could be the matter? It turns out that everything works a little differently. First, you need to create an account in the system, confirm your registration, and only then you can download the utility in the “Products” section.

Another important nuance is that if you adhere to the golden rule of creating passwords, including using special signs, then this practice will have to be abandoned. There will be no problems with authorization on the site, but the DPS App simply will not accept the passphrase, displaying the error:

Therefore, you should limit yourself to a combination of Latin letters and numbers. However, let’s not judge strictly: while the system is at the beta testing stage, such bugs are quite natural.

Now let's finally download and install the application itself. Please note that for him correct operation Microsoft .NET 4.5, Adobe Flash Player ActiveX, and current version Java. After launch, the utility will prompt you to log in to synchronize with SPM, which we will do.

The equipment is detected automatically (in earlier versions the serial number had to be specified manually). After successful authorization, the following window will appear:

Don't be afraid - the program wants to determine your coordinates to display on interactive map(more on that a little later), but positioning can be disabled.

Now let's see what the application actually offers us. The range includes a whole range of scanners that allow you to control the following parameters:

1. Total voltage and voltage for each of the connected lines;
2. Voltage at central processor and video card;
3. Current strength;
4. Total power.

Using the round arrows, you can enable graph mode that displays changes in real time:

There is also a power supply temperature sensor, where you can select units of measurement to suit your taste:

The Thermaltake Smart DPS G 750W fan control is also available in the DPS App. In the “Performance” mode, the unit will select the optimal speed, almost equalizing the temperature of the power supply components with the ambient temperature. The “Zero fan” option allows you to turn off the fan completely - although the power supply itself is extremely quiet, if your household is not accustomed to the soothing sounds of a working server, this function will help make the NAS almost silent. Given the cost-effectiveness of our system, active cooling may not be needed at all. If the temperature exceeds the critical 80°C, the power supply will automatically switch to intensive operation mode.

The “Expenses” item allows you to set electricity tariffs and thus find out how much it costs you to operate the equipment. Unfortunately, at the moment only one tariff zone is supported and only one currency is the US dollar. As a result, the tool is suitable only for informational purposes, which the utility kindly warns about.

A rather interesting feature is the ability to send data to social media. Facebook, Twitter and its Chinese equivalent Weibo are supported. When you click on the corresponding icon on your account, a screenshot of the currently open counter is published. Sending a picture by e-mail is also available, but only if an email client is previously configured on the computer.

The “Record” tab provides much more interesting opportunities. Here you can download reports on the operation of the power supply by date in CSV format.

Readings are taken at intervals of one minute. The table records all the parameters displayed on the indicators - very convenient for assessing the effectiveness of the system.

However, let's take a break from the application (we've covered all the available functionality, with the exception of backlight control, which this model is not equipped with), and let's see what capabilities the SPM cloud platform offers. But first, let’s go to “My Account” -> “Settings”:

If you set the status to “Public”, statistics will be displayed on the “All uploads” tab, but only users added as friends will have access to the data. When you turn on the geolocation service, your computer's location will be displayed on an interactive map.

According to the developers, Smart Power Management should become more than just cloud service monitoring, but a full-fledged social platform. Using positioning functions, you can make acquaintances with other users and exchange experiences through personal messages. Considering that Thermaltake's target products are professionals and enthusiasts, in the future such a system can serve as an excellent alternative to thematic groups and forums, allowing you to find colleagues and like-minded people around the world in a couple of clicks.

Let's go to the “My uploads” tab. Reports generated by the application are loaded here.

By clicking on the link “Download data...” we get to visual interface. All information stored in text reports is presented here, but in the form of graphs. You can view statistics on the power supply itself, CPU and video card:

The most interesting is the “Analysis” tab. Having selected a power supply (and the platform allows you to add an unlimited number of devices), we get to this page:

The first three tabs allow you to find out the total time of use of the power supply, the cost of electricity and the amount of kW/h consumed, respectively. By clicking on the tree icon, we can evaluate the environmental friendliness of the system:

Unfortunately, the NAS only worked a bit, so I haven't planted a single tree yet. Next, you can get summary statistics on electricity consumption and cost, as well as find out the average power for the selected period:

The “Analysis of power consumption” tab will tell you how suitable the power supply is for file storage:

As you would expect, we were able to assemble a home NAS whose power consumption is comparable to that of a regular household light bulb.

The last tab allows you to create an energy saving plan based on the selected parameters. Here you can also set up alerts for mobile version applications:

In addition, Smart Power Management allows you to remotely manage the power of your computer or server. All necessary tools presented in the Remote section.

It is possible to completely turn off the power or reboot the system (don’t be alarmed, the corresponding signal will be sent to the motherboard), as well as schedule a shutdown:

The listed functionality is also available in the DPS G Mobile App, released for iOS and Android (Windows Phone was naturally ignored). And if viewing statistics on a smartphone screen is not very convenient, then the implementation remote control home NAS will come in handy. All previously made settings are fully synchronized:

Most useful function is a notification that the fan has stopped or the unit has overheated above 60°C, after which you can immediately turn off the system, preventing the power supply of your home NAS from failing.

Instead of a conclusion

Summarize. We found that using Windows on a home NAS is time-consuming, expensive, and extremely inconvenient. Excessive gluttony, time-consuming setup, updating and resynchronization, finally, bugs and the need to purchase a license - all this makes “windows” perhaps the worst solution for file storage. Therefore, in the next post I will talk about what NAS4Free is and what it is used with.

As for the Smart Power Management platform, I can say that the solution is already working great, offering a completely sufficient set of tools for monitoring and managing power. It can be a good help in situations where the use of professional industry solutions is unprofitable (for example, when building an IT infrastructure for small offices). A smart power supply can also come in handy for a private user: when your computer works 24/7, the ability to monitor changes remotely will come in very handy, as well as alarm button to shut down the system in emergency situations. But personally, I would like to see a more advanced tariff system with support for multiple zones and currencies - this would allow us to accurately record energy costs and plan a budget without additional software. If Thermaltake releases a version of the utility for Linux and FreeBSD, it will not have a price at all. I hope that company representatives read Habr - maybe they will like my ideas and transfer the utility to *nixes.

Task: build a small-sized home server with four 3.5-inch HDDs, as quiet as possible. It will serve as a NAS, backup server and torrent downloader.

Solution :
First, it was necessary to choose a motherboard. The standard options are mATX and Mini-ITX, both of which I've tried before.

The mATX form factor was rejected outright; with little effort it will not be possible to make it compact. Existing buildings mATX boards are not designed for 4 disks; they usually have bad and noisy power supplies. Make it compact and quiet block Power supply for such a system is difficult and expensive, since the power consumption will be more than 150 watts.

The Mini-ITX form factor gives greater freedom of choice, here you can find low-speed Atom and Celeron processors, peppy “mid-range” Athlon processors and powerful Core 2 Duo/Quad processors. The price varies greatly, but Atom is enough for my tasks. Such boards consume little power, take up little space and are usually not much inferior mATX boards by number of functions. There are also some disadvantages here: high prices, slightly fewer connectors, small selection.

Unfortunately, on the Russian market the choice of Mini-ITX motherboards is smaller than abroad, but this should not be surprising, given their low popularity. A good assortment is presented on Yandex Market and in some companies specializing in small form factors. Here it is worth noting Antex and Onyx (aka dont.ru). On foreign sites (linitx.com, mini-itx.com, idotpc.com) the choice is much wider.

I didn’t find a suitable low-power board with 4 SATA connectors, and I didn’t want to buy a sata controller with two and a separate one; the only PCI slot could still be useful for something more useful, for example a Wi-Fi adapter.

I also wanted to turn my computer into a home router, so I was looking for a board with two ethernet connectors.

There was, although not a large selection, but after Googling, I found an excellent board with a dual-core Atom processor, a PCI slot, two ethernet connectors and, lo and behold, four SATA connectors. An excellent option: a low-power, but not completely weak processor, a full set of necessary connectors and only one fan.

Now we had to choose a building. For 4 hard drives, there was only one case, Chenbro ES34069, which looks as good as the found board, but is quite expensive. After reading the forums, it turned out that he is not very quiet.

Okay, let's move on, you can buy another case and make room for 4 disks in it. At that time I had only a rough idea of ​​how to place the disks, but it didn’t scare me. After a thorough search, two small cases of suitable capacity were found: AOpen S180 and CFI GROUP CBI-A8989TG. Both resembled the cases of the first bareborn systems. According to calculations, both were suitable, but I decided to take the case from Aopen, which was a little higher, so that there was room for reserve. Subsequently, this decision turned out to be the only correct one, since everything would not have been packed so well in the second case. But first things first.

The power supply in the purchased case turned out to be extremely noisy and I decided to look for an alternative. Power supplies for Mini-ITX systems usually consist of two components - a mains power adapter, like laptops, and a converter board. The board converts the voltage supplied by the unit, usually 12 Volts, into the required 3.3, 5, 12, -12 Volts. According to calculations, the system should have consumed up to 100 watts at peak. The range of such fanless power supplies turned out to be very small. In Moscow it turned out to be impossible to find a board and adapter with an output power of more than 80 Watts. Adapters 220 - 12 Volts with a power of 100 Watts or more in Moscow are a piece goods; trips to markets and searches on the Internet yielded almost nothing. Only one company offered to bring a 120-watt power supply, but at an incomprehensible time frame. There was also a single 120-watt board, also made to order and at an incomprehensible time frame. I had to search on foreign Internets. German and American stores offered such kits, there was even a good selection, but at a price of about $200 with delivery. Then I paid attention to car converters, essentially the same boards, only designed for floating car 12-24 Volts, and not stable 12. For such boards it is much easier to find a power supply, because anything from a laptop with a power of 100-120 Watts will do. I had the power supply and found a similar priced one on eBay. Great, all I had to do was wait for it in the mail.

The hard drives chosen were the Barracuda LP series; they are cheaper and heat up less than the older 7002.11 and the like. However, during tests it turned out that under load they still get very hot and would benefit from forced cooling. It was necessary to make gaps between the disks to allow free passage of air.

The purchased case had an iron carriage for mounting one 5-inch and two 3.5-inch devices. It was not possible to secure 4 disks on it well. But a metal carriage designed for installing four disks in three 5-inch bays, which was given to me by a friend, handled this task perfectly. There was a place on it to mount a fan; when installing the disks, there were gaps between them, sufficient for ventilation.

Leroy Merlin found iron corners and screws suitable for securing the carriage in the body. The adapter board was mounted on specially soldered metal stands. The power supply that came with the case was removed, and on the back wall of the case, in the place where the power supply fan and the 220 V connector howled, an impressive empty space formed that had to be closed somehow. Using tin snips, I carefully cut out a patch from a sheet of aluminum and attached it to the body. Now we had to make a tricky MOLEX-4 SATA power cable, since the power supply had only one molex connector. 20-pin power cable connecting the mat. I soldered the board and power converter from a cable from an old power supply.

The motherboard supported PWM control of the fan speed, and to blow through the hard drives it was necessary to buy a quiet fan; I had to go shopping and buy one PWM fan and one quiet one with a special resistor that further slowed down its slow rotation. I removed the standard fan on the motherboard radiator, deciding that the fan on the case would be enough. It turned out that one cooler blows on the disks, the second blows this air out of the case, simultaneously cooling the processor and chipset. During the tests, the processor overheated and I came up with the idea of ​​​​building a kind of air duct from a sheet of plastic. The drawing was refined over several days, modeled out of paper, and eventually, with the help of scissors and glue, it was turned into a plastic casing for the radiator on a mat. board

The easiest task was buying memory. :) For the system partition, I bought an 8 GB flash drive and soldered an adapter to it to connect to the internal connector on the mat. board The OS was installed on a flash drive, the computer was assembled. As a result, I assembled a quiet computer, where everything turned out to be quite compact; there was really little free space inside.

Now it is running Ubuntu 9.10, backups are made using snapback2+rsync.

Final estimate

A little test

I present the results of unixbench and, for comparison, the test results of a desktop computer (Athlon X2, 2 cores, 2.5 GHz, 2 GB RAM) and a server based on Xeon 5500 (8 cores, 2.5 GHz, 48 GB RAM).

Results

I found the cheapest NAS for 4 disks on Yandex Market for 14,000 rubles (without disks). My computer was a thousand rubles cheaper and certainly more powerful and functional. The downside is that a lot of time was spent, finding parts in my case was not easy, and let’s add here the risks of purchasing goods from abroad by mail.

Thank you for your attention!