Rumble in the chandelier. LED lights hum


The situation when LED lights hum, can hardly be called pleasant. Extraneous noise from light sources will interfere both in your living space and at work. Let's look at why LED lamps begin to make a buzzing sound, and how this can be corrected.

Dimmer noise is the first reason why LED lamps hum

A dimmer is an excellent device that increases comfort when using lighting systems. It is able to change the brightness of the lamps in a way that is convenient for us. However, the most common reason is Why are LED lights humming?- this is the use of a dimmer.

The fact is that there are models of dimming devices for incandescent lamps and LED lamps. If you use an LED lamp with a dimmer designed for incandescent lamps, a humming sound will appear coming from the device. The solution is to change the dimmer model to one suitable for LED light sources or choose incandescent lamps.

Poor quality assembly of LED lamps

The second reason, Why is the LED light humming?– problems with the quality of lamps. For example, the design of the lamp used a powerful LED or a group of LEDs with low power, but its tightness was not ensured. In this case, a humming or whistling sound may occur while the lamp is operating.

Another example is the use of low-quality transformers in lamps with brightness control via PWM (pulse width modulation) or too high a PWM frequency. This will also lead to extraneous sounds in the operating lamp.

If you purchased a low-quality LED light source, there is no other way to ensure the absence of extraneous sounds other than replacing it with a product from a trusted manufacturer.

Other reasons for LED lamp humming

It is worth noting that a low level of hum is characteristic of almost all dimmable lamps, but usually this sound is not audible. But in some situations, the hum of the light source can be amplified by parts of the ceiling structure. For example, a case was described when a lamp built into a plasterboard ceiling was closely adjacent to a metal profile, and already along the profile a weak humming sound resonated throughout the entire room. The solution was to replace the lamp model with another one with a smaller height.

When a buzzing sound appears from a working LED lamp, you should carefully check all the conditions for its correct operation - a suitable dimmer model, correct installation and the quality of the light source itself. Our online store presents, including dimmable ones, which do not create extraneous sounds when operating.

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LED lights hum

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I purchased 3 LED bulbs to replace the halogen ones.
The connection is made via a transformer.
When all three LED lamps are turned on, some kind of humming noise appears from them.
If you change 1 lamp to a halogen, the hum disappears.
Why does this hum appear?

Apart from magnetic cores and windings, the hum will appear from nowhere. Most likely, there is inductance in the light bulb driver, the transformer is forced to work “intermittently” due to “not full load”, the electronics of the light bulbs do not like this and this makes them hum.
The main reason is the transformer.

The hum appears from abnormal operation of the transformer; it is not designed to operate at reduced load levels.
You need to provide the light bulbs with normal voltage.
Change the transformer to a power source, when working with which the drivers will not enter into a “conflict” with it, which is expressed by “humming”.

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One of the typical breakdowns of vacuum cleaners is loud operation.

LED lights hum

If your device makes noise when turned on and does not suck in debris or smells burnt, you need to move on to repairs as quickly as possible. Otherwise, the motor will fail (which is what makes the noise), making it worth buying a new vacuum cleaner rather than paying to replace the motor. Next, we will tell you why the vacuum cleaner hums during operation and what to do in this case.

  • Cleaning the filters
  • We repair the engine

Cleaning the filters

In most cases, the device begins to make noise due to the fact that you did not clean the filters in a timely manner or did not empty the garbage collection bag. Clogged filters restrict air flow to the motor, causing the motor to operate in overload mode. The result is that if the engine operates abnormally, it makes noise, gets very hot, and eventually fails altogether. Therefore, do not forget to clean the filters, and if you have already reached this situation, perform cleaning and check if this helps solve the problem.

We repair the engine

If you have cleaned all the filters, but the engine hums like an airplane, then most likely the problem is worn bearings. The fact is that if the filtration system is heavily contaminated, dust will enter the engine compartment and stick to the moving parts. As a result, the engine begins to run dry, after which it begins to hum or whistle.

If you detect a breakdown in time and immediately begin to fix the problem, you may get away with simply lubricating the bearings, as shown in this video:

It happens that the engine simply becomes clogged with debris, after which it begins to hum loudly. In this case, it can also be saved by simply cleaning it, as shown in this video example:

If lubrication of the bearings does not help, then the problem is in the windings or other elements of the engine. Repair in this case is most often not advisable, especially if the equipment is old. It would be much wiser to buy new equipment. You can read about how to choose a quality vacuum cleaner for your home in our article.

That's all the advice we wanted to provide. Now you know why the vacuum cleaner hums and how to repair it yourself. We remind you once again that the main cause of breakdown is clogged filters, so be responsible when servicing the device!

Related materials on the topic:

  • Why is the refrigerator loud?
  • The vacuum cleaner does not suck up debris - reasons
  • Rating of robot vacuum cleaners 2016

Why do light bulbs in a chandelier explode when turned on?

Why do light bulbs explode when turned on?

How does a modern light bulb work?

A modern household light bulb is a rather complex device that, as a result of the flow of electric current through a tungsten filament, emits a light glow when heated.

During the production of lamps, discharged inert gas is pumped into more powerful lamps, and a vacuum is created in lamps with a power of up to 25 watts.

This extends the life of the lighting device, but it is also because of this that when the light bulb explodes, we hear a loud bang.

What happens in the flask is nothing more than stabilization of atmospheric pressure.

What causes light bulbs to explode?

The very reason for the explosion of the light bulb lies in the fact that over time, as a result of depressurization, the discharged environment inside the lamp is sharply filled with pressure, the bulb is destroyed, which is often accompanied by flying fragments in different directions of the room.

This may be the case when modern houses are supplied with a sufficiently high voltage that an ordinary light bulb cannot withstand. If this is the problem, then you will have to look for specialized lamps designed for use specifically at high voltage.

Another reason could be low quality products.

For an example, see the picture below. This is a completely new light bulb that I bought and could not install in the chandelier, when I started to inspect it, it turned out to have a crooked base and a hole in the thread.
.

Unfortunately, at present, domestic manufacturers lag behind their foreign colleagues in terms of lamp quality, and the price of the issue is insignificant. For each of the lamps there is a passport, which indicates the power of the light bulbs for this model. These instructions must be followed, otherwise the bulbs will flicker, not provide enough light, or explode and burn out.

We also note that the switches must also be in good working order. If the contact moves away from them, this again affects the performance of the light bulb. In order to avoid such moments when light bulbs explode, it is worth switching to using halogen lamps. They integrate a special protection unit that takes care of voltage surges in the network. It is best to replace old switches with rheostat ones, which can reduce the voltage to the light bulb itself when it is turned on.

How to properly connect a light bulb to the wires?

Before connecting the light bulb to the wires, you should take care of safety precautions and turn off the power supply. In order to carry out this action correctly, you must adhere to some specific rules. First of all, if there is no recess in the walls for a switch, then one must be made.

Next, you will have to stretch the electrical wires to the desired location; you need to pull them from the junction box. As a rule, these two wirings are well known to everyone - zero and phase. The above wires will have to be laid open or closed. In the first of the listed options, the gasket is made in special plastic boxes placed on top of the wall.

Why are the lights buzzing?

While in the second case the cable is laid into grooves prepared in advance in the wall.

The zero wire must be laid along the ceiling and walls directly to the lighting device itself. The phase should be directed to the switch, or rather to the input contact, and at the output the phase approaches the light bulb. It is imperative to ensure that this sequence is followed, otherwise the light bulb may be under dangerous voltage even when turned off.

Next, both wires, zero and phase, are attached to the socket, into which the light bulb will then be screwed. It is enough for a simple person to remember that the phase is supplied directly to the base, while the zero is supplied to the thread. After you have managed to install the switch for the light bulb, you need to place it in a box prepared in advance for it and they also need to check the functionality of your entire circuit.

Along with this topic look:

The lamps in the chandelier burst. When the lamp burns out, it bursts

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Quote(Vycheslav @ 12/20/2011, 14:42)

Couldn't the reason be in the lamps themselves?

Seriously: maybe, of course.

Light bulbs are now produced of low quality, but if this happens regularly, I wrote above. If the connections are normal, it may make sense to install a dimmer.

The machine gun was also knocked out, but not in the apartment. and on the shield on the stairs. But the lamp did not fire. But still, when it burns out, the automatic switch works for some reason.

Post edited S-cream — 20.12.2011, 14:50

Quote(S-cream @ 12/20/2011, 15:48)

It is not possible to check a broken lamp in another chandelier

Seriously: maybe, of course. Light bulbs are now produced of low quality, but if this happens regularly, I wrote above. If the connections are normal, it may make sense to install a dimmer.

The knocking out of the machine at the moment the light bulb burns out is due to the fact that at the moment the filament breaks, currents can arise in the circuit for a short time that significantly exceed the rating of the machine.

Thanks for the answer. I'll keep an eye on the situation and check the connections.

Quote (Master Ju @ 12/20/2011, 15:54)

Once you turn it on, install a device for smooth switching on incandescent lamps.

Need to think. Different lamps in a chandelier behave differently. But of course the problem will have to be solved.

Post edited Vycheslav — 20.12.2011, 15:00

I saw electrons with my own eyes

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Quote(Roman D @ 12/21/2011, 0:20)

I understand: the lamp fuse is located outside the bulb, i.e. in the space between the bulb and the base. The volume of this space in LN E14 is much smaller than in E27 - all other things being equal. Therefore, when the fuse is triggered, the gases released when the arc burns destroy this volume at the weakest point - simply “shooting off” the bulb.

By the way, yes. I confirm the comment. E14 is “shot” much more often than E27.

a more likely reason is poor contact in the lamp itself, the socket, and even more likely - the disgusting quality of the lamps

I do not argue. That's right. I just gave, so to speak, a “living, fresh example.” In this example of mine, the light bulbs were both Phillips and Belarusian.

Post edited S-cream — 21.12.2011, 8:59

Address: Seversk Posts 3,247

Light bulbs in chandeliers often explode =(

There are two chandeliers with a small (E14, it seems) base, the rest with some kind of large base :) And these two chandeliers quite often explode light bulbs, compared to chandeliers that have a large base. Yesterday one simply burned out, another light bulb just exploded right above my head, along with the lampshade :)
I buy regular Lumen “candles” for this base, for 20-30 rubles.
Does it make sense to buy more expensive light bulbs or do you need to call an electrician?

One of them worked for quite a long time on 3 out of 4 light bulbs, I just didn’t get around to replacing the 4th one. I recently replaced it and today the lampshade came to an end =\

And for that matter, the kettle + microwave combination knocks out the machines. Previously, when I lived with my father, it crashed often, but now I live alone and there are fewer consumers turned on - it rarely crashes. The machines are old.

I'm not very good at electrical engineering :)

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Dear everyone! An urgent question. Light bulbs are constantly exploding......

Well, without knowing. This is what Yandex gives.

The advice there is different, and they advise the lamp manufacturer to change it, and look at the contacts, and the device can be some kind at home with a large capacitor - they write. Don't know. I haven't really read anything there yet. The blame goes straight to the light bulb manufacturer, I don’t know. But they also write there that they tried different ones.

I've never had one explode, although I did notice that in one area the bulbs were more prone to burning out (but not exploding).

light bulbs “explode” usually when air enters the bulb - that is, a suspicion of low-quality products

if the light bulb fails when the voltage increases, the coil usually burns out, with a little noise

There are also incidents when the conductors inside the cartridge are shorted - then the general protection is triggered

As we know in our home network there is 220V alternating voltage, which smoothly changes from 0 to approximately 310V.

The lamp filament in a cold state has less resistance than in a heated state. The rated voltage of the incandescent lamp is 245V. Accordingly, if at the moment of switching on the lamp was cold and the voltage was peak, then the instantaneous current in the filament of the incandescent lamp turns out to be much greater than the average rated one. As a result, the lamp burns out like a fuse. In this case, an explosion or depressurization is possible. Depressurization of an incandescent lamp is a process when air gets inside the glass bulb; when heated by the coil, the air expands and the light bulb explodes.

“Noise in the network” also affects the burnout of lamps. For example, neighbors connected a welder or similar device. A surge protector (Pilot type) with good power characteristics protects against this.

The remaining reasons are very commonplace: poor contact in the socket, oxidized contacts, poor-quality or old wiring, damaged or poor-quality switch.

One reason is installing a halogen lamp with bare hands. Halogen lamps are very sensitive to grease contamination. Therefore, it should only be installed using gloves or a clean cloth.

But the main reason is the poor quality of the light bulbs. The service life of halogen lamps from Chinese manufacturers is no more than 3-4 months. At the same time, manufacturers such as Philips or Osram have a service life of halogen lamps of 1-2 years or more. The cost of such lamps is higher than Chinese ones, but the difference in price is often compensated by durability.

It is better to use lamps from the same manufacturer. And the reason is this: the legs of halogen lamps may differ in thickness from different manufacturers. As a result, the contact in the G4 socket “breaks,” and this leads to excessive heating and destruction of the socket and contacts of the halogen lamp.

Why is the LED lamp humming?, although it didn’t buzz when you checked it in the store? You finally bought a new lamp. The electrician installed and connected it instead of the old one with incandescent lamps. That lamp was dimmable. The new lamp immediately began to hum, but when tested in the store it did not hum. And the buzzing gets stronger as the brightness decreases.

There are several reasons for this unpleasant phenomenon.

Dimmer noise from a previous fixture with traditional incandescent bulbs. These also include halogen incandescent lamps. This group of lamps has varieties:

  • powered directly from an industrial network 220 V 50 Hz;
  • powered by an output voltage of 12 or 24 V.

Transformers with a ferromagnetic core sometimes hum in such lamps due to poor manufacturing quality. The EPRU, an electronic ballast, can also make noise.

The cores or loosely wound and not varnished windings hum in them. The buzzing occurs at the network frequency, i.e. 50 Hz. It is caused by a thyristor or triac dimmer to regulate brightness via a 220 V circuit.

Noise can also come from a lamp with LED lamps, the brightness of which is adjusted using the PWM procedure - pulse width modulation. The PWM frequency is usually higher than tens of kHz, i.e., inaudible. But sometimes in lamps from nameless manufacturers it is about 200 - 300 Hz. And low-quality transformers in the PWM part can also slowly squeak at this frequency.

An LED lamp also hums when a powerful LED or an assembly of several low-power LEDs is powered from a 220 V network. In this case, separate switching power supplies are used. If their design is not airtight, that is, it is not placed in a solid housing and not filled with compound, then they can also hum. But they usually whistle at a high frequency. If the power reserve of such a source is 30 - 50%, then they can be placed behind a suspended false ceiling or hidden in a ceiling niche. It is advisable to check the temperature of the power supply case after ten minutes of nominal operation. The heat should not burn your hand, i.e. be insignificant.

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