Internal Wifi antennas for tablets tab 9. How to connect an external GPS antenna to a tablet


Therefore, in this review I will touch minimally on the adapter itself, and will talk about improving the performance of a 10" tablet Zenithink ZT-280 C91 by replacing the standard WiFi module with this one.
Review contains detailed instructions with photos " close up"the whole process...
Let's start with the background. After purchasing the above tablet PC, it turned out that stable reception WiFi networks practically none, because in the immediate vicinity of the access point, the signal strength icon showed only one stick, while all other devices showed excellent reception. Next, this problem was studied by reading various thematic forums and reviews of the specified “tablet”. It turned out that this property is inherent in all “tablets” of this model and there are several ways to solve the issue. But first, the “tablet” needs to be disassembled. How to do this is described in detail. Below is a photo of the “device” with the back cover removed: Built-in WiFi module located in the lower right corner of the board:
So, the “tablet” has been disassembled, the module has been found, and let’s begin to improve reception.
First way- the simplest: upgrading the WiFi transceiver antenna by soldering a piece of foil fiberglass laminate to it (taken): They write that it helps, but in this particular case the difference is WiFi reception no signal detected.
Second way- replacing the WiFi module. This path is also described in detail. Not all are suitable for replacement WiFi adapter s, which ones are suitable were discussed. There is also a link to the module under review, only for DX, but it is slightly more expensive there, so it was ordered for TD.
A few photos of the received adapter: To connect it was used standard USB"lace" on back PC cases: Only he had to modify it a little: Modified crime scene:
Next, carefully unsolder the standard module:
Solder the “modified USB cord”: Because The standard WiFi module has a 3.3 volt power supply, and the one received from TD has 5 volt power, then in place of the standard one we solder only ground, D+ and D-, we take +5 volts from the USB connector: The new module, together with the “modified cord,” is precisely placed between the battery and the board of the “tablet”: Here's what came out of it:
When finishing the work we put back cover in place, turn on the “tablet” and check the reception quality.
This method helped the tablet user. The reception level has become the same as that of other devices.
Thus, I can recommend the reviewed adapter for purchase, due to good characteristics and small sizes, allowing you to “shove” it even into the case of a “tablet”.

I'm planning to buy +12 Add to favorites I liked the review +51 +95 Back

The tests involved a 10* AInol tablet
Denis and Alexander
The goal is to achieve the best Wi-fi reception on Chinese tablet replacing the standard factory receiver antenna with a homemade one Kharchenko antenna, and also on a 5Dbi antenna from the Netis router. See what happened in the video!

Also see my other reviews on mob. phones and gadgets:
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After a fall or repair, it became difficult to receive wifi on your tablet? This article is for you if you want to try to cure your favorite device yourself.

I had such a case - http://www.rf-cheats.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=270623
The tablet fell, the screen cracked, I took it to a service center and they replaced the touchscreen. Overall a classic. After the replacement, I began to notice that wifi reception became worse than ever. By the way, I had my repairs done at the office WESTER-LAB(wester-lab.ru). Let it be anti-advertising.
My friends assured me that when replacing the touchscreen it is unlikely to somehow damage the wifi antenna. Having called the same service (and I have a guarantee!), I was told similar things, that their hut is on the right, that I mixed something up, that it was a coincidence, or that I was even trying to deceive them. Fortunately, I have a friend - really, an engineer from God. Can fix anything. What’s typical is that these are the kind of people who don’t work in such small services. Well, let's not talk about that.

So, the hardest part was how to remove the glass. There are simply tons of video guides on this point. We take a narrow knife and, starting from the right side of the tablet, pry up the glass, tearing it away from the double-sided tape. Before doing this, you should run a hairdryer along the edges of the tablet. After removing the touchscreen, it can be tilted to the left. For convenience, it would be nice to fold the display there as well. To do this, you need to disconnect the cable from the board at location number 1:

Under number 2 we see a protruding antenna, which was held on by three screws, which in turn we had already unscrewed. Taking a closer look at the antenna, we immediately understand what the matter is:

4. the antenna itself
3. the place to which it is attached
2-1. holes through which the antenna is pressed to the body with screws.
The naked eye can see that the antenna is torn at the mounting points. Apparently it was glued (or stuck) to the back of the display. And at the moment of changing the touchscreen, the antenna was torn out of its fasteners.
The important point here is the lowest hole in the antenna, which looks more like a stub:

It, unlike the other two, is conductive. Thus, the tablet body is a mass for the antenna, subject to tight contact. Of course, when the antenna is torn and practically does not press against the body, we have what we have. What did my friend decide to do?
I took a piece of fiberglass, cut a strip from it and removed the copper layer from it:

Of course, on top it is also covered with a dielectric, which was also removed. Next, I cut off a small part from this strip and soldered it to the antenna in the place where it should be attached to the body. Having attached the antenna with two screws, we got this picture:

1. Attached antenna
2. A piece soldered to the antenna, directly under which there is a hole for a screw.
We make a hole with an awl, insert a screw and tighten it.
Voila!

I already forgot when I caught the tablet at full capacity.
The service would give you a wifi module along with an antenna. Let me summarize - after all, such things should be done either through helpful acquaintances or from officials. Street offices will make a touchscreen, Wi-Fi will fall off. They turn on Wi-Fi and the sound disappears. Why do you need this swing?

tryber, ";">tryber | 06/11/2012 14:45

I can’t see the network through the wall at all. Eken 256 iron, exactly like this from the inside. I'll try to follow your advice today. If you know the exact frequency of the transmitting point, you can accurately calculate the antenna. I'll try it now, of course I'll report back later.

Added later (at 17:12 06/11/2012):

Tried it, no change. I used a copper wire with a diameter of 1.5mm and placed it perpendicularly on both sides of the power button and at the bottom of the tablet. The result is the letter (G) if you hold the tablet vertically. Maybe the network is closed or the signal is quite weak. I can’t check the second laptop, I went on vacation with my daughter, but there is no WiFi on mine. I'll try in open networks I'll unsubscribe.

tryber, ";">tryber | 06/12/2012 00:55

Things like this, I unsoldered this Wi-Fi whistle and pulled it out of the tablet. The tablet works without it for now (since I use it as a reader at night, I don’t think it needs Wi-Fi). Soldered to the module usb connector and connected it to the laptop. On the Internet I downloaded firewood Ralink 802.11g WLAN V1.0 USB VID_148F&PID_2070 installed and Wi-Fi worked. The network sees normally as with the add-on. with or without an antenna. The output module and antenna are not in use, apparently the voltage in the tablet is too low. Tomorrow I'll check the voltages and current consumption, then we can say for sure.

Comments: 5 | tryber53(bсh)gmail.com | Registered: 2012-06-11

tryber, ";">tryber | 06/12/2012 12:36

Yes, thanks, but I did it quickly, just soldered the USB to the module and everything worked. Only in XP I made up my mind and demanded firewood. Automatic search in all variations it did not give results, I had to slip it in instead of rt2070-rt2870, in short everything works fine, but the speed of 802.11 G is (speed) in the literal sense of the word. I don’t know, I’m used to at least 100mbi/sec. As for consumption, with my 1500 mA indicated on the Akum, spending 200 mA only on WiFi is cool and blasphemous. The map is like this: Turn on = 490 mA System loaded brightness minimum Wi-Fi off 420-430 mA MP3 playback 500-430 = 70 mA Wi-Fi = 590-630 mA Display brightness max + WiFi = 860 mA. And it didn’t turn on anything else, I think the browser will load the battery to capacity. In short, with a battery capacity reserve of +-70%, and this is almost new, a maximum of 1 hour of operation with WiFi turned on outdoors on a clear day. Yes, I noticed from the surges of current that it seems that Wi-Fi doesn’t care whether it’s turned on or not, it is periodically consumed, apparently it works in hidden mode:(. There is a known case of updating the firmware of the Chinese Weike 502. And these are not stories, this happened to me, the 502nd tried to flash nothing worked, I put it aside. Then after a while I think I’ll charge it and try again, I connected it to the laptop, it was working in Linux Mint 9 Isidora, in the evening I think it’s time to flash it, let me see if I’ve somehow decided on Linux, I see all the buzz, and before. Stupidly neither Windows nor Linux saw it. I turn off the player, turn off the Internet, reboot into Windows, connect the player and, lo and behold, it’s determined and everything works, like this.

Comments: 5 | tryber53(bсh)gmail.com | Registered: 2012-06-11

Ahio, ";">Ahio | 05/19/2013 14:51

Thanks for the article! I also have a problem with the wafer on the tablet, but the module is different, can you tell me where I can solder another wire? In general, apparently, one is already soldered, but it is of no use, the signal bounces around and is poorly received even close to the router.


What can you do in general? in this case to improve the signal? Buying a USB adapter is probably not an option - it won’t work without firewood.
Thank you!

Comments: 1 | Nimrayel(bсh)gmail.com | Registered: 2013-05-19

admin, ";">admin | 05/19/2013 22:56

You have both wires already soldered. You can try to solder an additional copper wire (20 centimeters) and lay it around the perimeter of the tablet body.

sokol74, ";">sokol74 | 06/12/2014 21:24

Hello. Tell me where I can generally connect the antenna for this device. I did not find a separate module. The board is one piece. I still don’t understand where the module is located. Digma tablet IDnD73G

Added later (at 21:32 06/12/2014):

Comments: 1 | legend1-2(bсh)mail.ru | Registered: 2014-06-12

admin, ";">admin | 06/12/2014 21:33

It's hard to say without seeing the schematic/board. Take a photo of the board on both sides and send it.

Comments: 1653 | Site Administrator

Articles and Lifehacks

To strengthen the signal that is lacking in the entire large house and increase the range Wi-Fi work, is made from a regular CD box. Although electronic equipment Nowadays it’s at its best, and the words “router” and “Wi-Fi” won’t surprise anyone; homemade craftsmen are constantly trying to come up with something of their own.

How to make a wifi antenna for a tablet computer with your own hands?

1. You need to take a standard plastic box designed for 25 discs.

2. At a distance of approximately 18 mm, you need to cut off the spindle and, using a file (or a round needle file), make slots on it in order to then attach the double diamond.

3. Then you need to make a double diamond from a copper cable with a diameter of 2.5 mm. To do this you will need about 30 cm of copper wire. You need to bend a rhombus from a stripped piece of wire, strictly maintaining the size from its middle to the middle of approximately 30 millimeters. The result is double square with the same dimensions. The ends of the wire should be soldered and tinned, preparing the place for the planned cable connection.

5. Then, using a soldering iron, you need to solder the cable, and to the bottom of the box with regular glue (with a glue gun) you need to attach a CD designed to reflect the signal.

6. In addition, you need to fix the double square on the spindle (using a glue gun), and secure the cable with reverse side boxes. DIY Wifi antenna for tablet is ready.

7. The final step is to connect the manufactured structure to a wifi router.

Features of handmade production wifi antennas for tablet

The main requirement for the manufacture of such an antenna is that the distance between the reflective layer and the copper wires must be strictly maintained and be 15 mm.

Experienced specialists or self-confident craftsmen can unsolder the factory antenna and carefully attach a homemade one in its place. The procedure must be carried out carefully so that thin conductors do not peel off from the board when high temperature. The power of such a seemingly simple design will surprise any user no less than that of Wacom.

It is necessary to pay attention that the copper wires should not touch each other when crossing each other. To avoid oxidation, the manufactured structure must be varnished. Having assembled the antenna with your own hands, you need to tune it to the signal source according to best quality and range of transmitted data. It is, of course, easier to set up using microwave measuring devices.







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