Choosing thermal paste for macbook pro. Replacing MacBook Pro thermal paste from Drmac
From time to time, clients come to us asking for more than just preventative cleaning, but they are very specific in their desires: we want you to change the thermal paste, period. In the end, we almost never do this and here’s why.
What is thermal paste and why do they ask to change it?
Let's start with a simplified theory. Thermal paste is usually a viscous substance with good thermal conductivity. It is applied to the surface of the cooled element, which in MacBooks is the processor. A metal radiator is fixed on top, through which the heat is further transferred to the fan. The task of thermal paste is to displace air at the junction of the cooled surface and the radiator, which does not conduct heat in the best way.
Theoretically, over time, thermal paste may partially lose its properties, as a result of which the processor can actually heat up. If you read various forums, every second craftsman there boasts that he changes the thermal paste in his car once a year and advises everyone to do so. As a result, people often ask to change it simply for preventive purposes: “Well, they recommend it!”
Why don't we do this
In fact, we do, but only if we ourselves see the reasons for this. In the vast majority of cases, it is simply not required. For maximum effect, thermal paste should be applied in the thinnest layer. We remember that its task is only to displace air and bring the radiator as close as possible to the processor. If you just pour the paste and smear it on the crystal, it will only get worse, because in fact we will move the radiator further away. So, factory application of paste is always better than homemade, no matter how specialist the master is. In the same way, we can say that over 3-5 years, if the paste loses its properties, it is extremely insignificant.
But what if the Mac gets hot?
Our algorithm of actions is usually like this. At the first stage, we install iStat Menus on the machine (the trial version works for two weeks) and see to what temperatures its various components heat up in different operating modes. There are no strict requirements here, but in the mode of relative system inactivity, the temperature on the surface of the processor and video card should be at 70 degrees; under load it can increase to 90-100 degrees.
We looked, assessed, and understood the scale of the disaster. After this, we open the car and clean it, paying special attention to the fans and radiator grille. This is where the main pieces of dust accumulate, which prevent adequate cooling of the radiator.
Cleaned and closed. Now let's see what loads the system at the software level. Often the problem is not only dust, but also one or more processes that brazenly eat up 50-100 or more percent of processor resources. This leads to an excessive load on the processor, it begins to warm up, and the user’s more or less serious task completely drives him into boiling water. We launch System Monitoring, turn on the display of all processes and begin to monitor the most gluttonous elements.
Further actions greatly depend on what we see. Sometimes the Spotlight or coreduetd processes get out of control - in this case, re-indexing the built-in drives or clearing the database of the coreduetd component can help. Often, Skype or another application starts to rage in the background, and even more often, people have torrents constantly running, adding to the constant load.
A set of these measures in 99 cases out of a hundred allows you to solve problems with “overheating” of a Mac without replacing thermal paste. So if they immediately start telling you about replacing the thermal paste, just smile and go to another service.
A detailed guide for those who have decided.
The life cycle of Apple laptops is significantly longer than that of competitors. It’s hard to argue with this, especially when it comes to models released 3-4 years ago or earlier. Maximum aluminum, thoughtful ergonomics, arrangement of all elements - these are the devices that look at us from store shelves.
And somewhere in a parallel dimension there are plastic heavyweights with controversial designs, creepy accessories, but a more reasonable price tag.
Now the situation has leveled out. Brands competing with Apple have also learned to make beautiful things, and there are a number of parameters in which some laptop models are even superior to the “reference MacBook”.
But any technique sooner or later requires prevention. It's my turn to do this.
Why did I decide
Note. I deliberately left the technical part of the question, terminology and aesthetics of service centers outside the scope of this article. The result is important to any of us.
I have the top one at my disposal 2011 13-inch MacBook Air. Five years ago it was a “beast of a machine”, the processor of which (and here the i7 1.8 GHz) crushed any load to smithereens. 4 GB RAM– back then it was still a logical standard, and even today it is sufficient for all everyday tasks.
The previous owner treated this “workhorse” with due reverence, and for the last two-plus years I have been exploiting it “in its tail and mane.” During this time, the MacBook was opened once, by me. After removing a layer of dust from the cooler area (we all love to work on our knees and soft pillows), the laptop was safely closed, but this did not last long.
Problem 1: Frying pan with industrial fan
In my usual working mode, OS X runs a dozen different applications, including: a text editor, Photoshop, the Safari browser interspersed with Opera (each with 10–15 tabs), mail, five instant messengers, iTunes, a couple of Finder windows. All this works relatively stable for the first half hour. And then all hell breaks loose.
The cooler spins up to maximum (which is a good 6500 rpm), the keyboard warms up to a temperature that causes discomfort in work. Applications start playing the matrix and react with an annoying delay... It started to infuriate me - it’s impossible to work like that!
For the sake of practical interest, I install the application iStat Menus[Download] and am surprised to see the following picture.
In the above screenshot the temperature reaches 96 degrees. Let me remind you that at this moment I am not doing video editing or processing heavy files. At the moment of such a load, the temperature value crossed the mark at 105 degrees.
What does this mean?? Too high a temperature can cause failure of any element on the laptop board. The logical degradation of components begins: capacitors, resistors, crystals, and sooner or later you will simply face the premature death of the MacBook.
Repairing or replacing a motherboard is not a cheap task, so I strongly recommend periodically checking the temperature using the above utility.
Problem 2: I'll tell you how to kill your battery
Working on a large monitor is much more enjoyable. There is room for a lot of windows, you can effectively arrange your workspace, you are pleased with the realistic colors of a decent matrix (the CRT era is already in the distant past) and your eyes are not so tired. Normal people buy a Mac Mini or Mac Pro for this purpose. Our man connects a laptop via Display/Thunderbolt Port, complements this with a proprietary Apple Keyboard and Magic Trackpad, and feels like a “winner in life.”
I think you already understand who I belong to. The MacBook sits on my desktop 24 hours a day, never turns off (fortunately its power consumption is minimal) and is connected to the network adapter all this time.
After the purchase, my MacBook Air could boast of three hours of battery life. Six months of operation in the “system unit” mode and battery life was reduced to 40 minutes, and the number charge cycles exceeded 650. You can see it in the menu About This Mac -> System Report -> Charge Cycles.
On the official Apple website there is a guarantee for preservation 80% capacity after 1000 charging cycles, but apparently the company’s engineers mean a more adequate operation option.
Detailed instructions for those who decide.
Don't repeat my mistakes and treat your Mac's battery with care. I’ll tell you how to do this below.
What does this mean?? You feel constantly tied to the outlet, and you simply find it difficult to answer the question: “Do you have a laptop?”
Verdict. It has been decided that it is time for general prevention. The first item on the list is replacing thermal paste on the processor with all the resulting dust removal. Second - battery replacement.
Service center? No, I'm on my own
The computer services industry today is well developed. One call and a service center representative will come for your Mac, pick it up, then within 24 hours they will do a “full maintenance” and deliver it back. There are a lot of scenario options here and you can always find a company or specialist who will make your MacBook “like new.” The question is - how high quality?
Yes, many people do just that – they take it to the center and let them sort it out. As a person who is interested in technology, technology and especially everything related to Apple, I became interested do everything yourself.
My readers will now be divided into two groups: those who will say: “What’s the heroism in this - an hour of work and everything is ready” and those who will twist it at their temples and say: “Well, come on, you’ll do it crooked anyway. We need a specialist in this matter.” I think there will be a third category that will support my desire to go where I’m not supposed to.
Buying a battery and thermal paste
So I need new battery for MacBook Air 13'' 2011 and thermal paste. Apart from rumors and beliefs that there are fakes everywhere and the original does not exist (and there is some truth in this), I have nothing to present to the market in the battery issue. With thermal paste, everything is solved easier and according to the principle “let the forums help me.”
The first and most important thing is to find out what The battery model is installed specifically in your MacBook. Information can be easily found on the Internet by indicating the exact model name and year of manufacture (don’t forget about the screen diagonal), but it’s best to see the required serial number with your own eyes.
In order to open the MacBook, we need a non-standard (for other household appliances) screwdriver format Torx T5 or "asterisk".
Ideally, you need to have two screwdrivers at once: T5 to open the laptop lid and T4 to remove the internal screws that hold the battery, cooler and radiator in place. This way, the mounting screws will not experience wear from the wrong screwdriver format.
Using a T5 screwdriver, carefully remove the 10 screws:
The two center top screws are longer than the other 8 screws - don't forget this when reassembling.
Now we determine the battery model.
The MacBook Air 13'' 2011 model has a battery number A1405. And then it’s a matter of technology - look for the most suitable store on the Internet and order the model you need. Finding “100% original” is more like a myth, so take the Chinese markings and hieroglyphs on the battery calmly. In the end, your MacBook proudly bears the inscription on the back of the case: Made in China.
Regarding thermal paste. There are many decent options on the market:
- Glacial Stars Ice Therm I
- Arctic Cooling MX-2
- DEEPCOOL Z3
- Arctic Silver Ceramique 2
- Cooler Master IC Essential E1
- KPT-8 is, after all, quite good
If you wish, you can engage in a detailed analysis of the effectiveness of each of the pastes proposed above. Personally, I didn’t have time for a thorough study - work stopped, and the open Mac was waiting for surgery.
My choice fell on Cooler Master IC Essential E1 for several reasons at once. Firstly, it is slightly cheaper than the much-hyped Zalman, and secondly, according to numerous reviews, it does an excellent job of cooling.
Finally, you buy a complete kit for applying the paste yourself: the tube itself with the “saving substance”, an alcohol wipe and a spatula for leveling the paste layer on the processor. The price of the issue is about 600 rubles, but the volume of the tube is enough for a dozen or two processors.
Changing the battery
Everything you need for prevention is on hand. Torx T4/T5 screwdriver, new battery, thermal paste, hands and complete concentration.
The only thing that is not in the photo is a wooden stick or toothpick for disconnecting the cables. In no case Do not use a metal screwdriver for this.
Immediately before starting work disconnect the cable leading to the battery.
Unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the battery. Don’t be too lazy to take an A4 sheet and schematically sketch the location of each screw. They have different lengths and threads, and when reassembling there is a risk of screwing something in the wrong place, thereby piercing the body of the device.
I did this:
To disassemble, you need to unscrew exactly five screws, using a Torx T4 screwdriver.
When removing the battery, be extremely careful and try to hold it on all sides at once. The battery may break under its own weight.
The original and the newly purchased “100% original” are no different from each other.
The only thing that catches your eye is the absence of a plastic tail on the purchased battery for removal.
It’s not critical, we’ll survive.
We install the new battery in place and fix it with screws, according to our diagram. Each screw has its place. Try not to use force; a moderate turn of the screwdriver is enough.
After installing the battery we do not connect the cable, because the most labor-intensive part of prevention lies ahead - replacing thermal paste.
Changing thermal paste
Using a toothpick, carefully pry up the cable located above the cooler. It is glued to the cooler body, so it will take a little force to tear it off.
Again, use a toothpick to disconnect the miniature cooler cable by gently lifting the tab and pulling it out.
Now, using the same Torx T4 screwdriver, unscrew the three screws holding the cooler and carefully remove it.
Let's move on to removing the radiator. There are already four screws waiting for us. Try to remember the force that had to be applied to break them - when reassembling you will need to tighten the screws in the same way.
After you unscrew the 4 screws, do not remove the radiator. It is fixed in one more and very problematic part.
Near the cooler, in the very corner, there is dangerous area– a miniature wiring, under which there is a screw fixing the cooler.
Carefully move the wire to the side and remove the screw. The main thing is not to damage anything. Remove the radiator by shaking it from side to side and releasing the rubber seal.
While unscrewing the screws, make another schematic drawing of their location. It is important! The screws are different from each other.
Use a can of compressed air or a syringe to get rid of dust accumulated on the radiator grille. Of course, the same should be done with the cooler.
Access to the processor crystal is guaranteed!
Yes, what was left of the factory thermal paste could not save the MacBook from overheating. It has dried out and does not provide proper thermal dissipation.
Using a cotton pad and alcohol, carefully wipe the processor (to a mirror shine) and the radiator.
We have come to the most crucial moment - applying thermal paste. Faced with replacing paste on their own, many users encounter the following problem: what is the optimal amount of thermal paste to apply??
To understand why thermal paste is needed, look at this picture:
The purpose of replacing thermal paste is to ensure smoothing and filling microcracks on the surface of the processor and heatsink. It is not needed to be a layer between them. Therefore, with the approach: “I’ll put more - I’ll cool it better,” you’ll only make things worse. The thermal paste will dry out very quickly and cease to perform its function, losing the necessary physical properties.
You need to spread the paste in a thin layer over the entire surface of the processor. Approximately this amount:
Then, using a spatula, smooth out the thermal paste.
When everything is ready, do not rush to install the radiator right away. Try on its location and pay special attention to the rubber seal. It should fit into the groove on the motherboard.
Only then can you install the radiator correctly. Be careful when screwing in the corner screw (where the dangerous wire is). Do not over-tighten the screws, doing this gradually on each side.
When installing the battery, make sure that the barely noticeable groove on the plug snaps into place.
Close the back metal cover and tighten ten screws around the perimeter.
Assembly complete!
The effect of replacing thermal paste, battery and some tips
Having done everything described above, I independently performed preventative maintenance on my beloved MacBook Air. But the question that worried me even before starting all this was the effectiveness of the event.
I'm telling you.
Thermal paste. Before replacing the thermal paste, the laptop temperature rarely dropped below 95–100 degrees. The cooler worked at full capacity even when I refused to launch applications, and the temperature to which the case heated made work impossible.
You type the text in the editor - 92-94 degrees, launch Safari - everything is the same. You open Final Cut and the 105 degree mark is reached. The cooler works, but it is of no use. It didn't cool!
Replacing the thermal paste and cleaning the cooler worked like magic. He stopped making noise! When running heavy applications, the MacBook instantly heats up, the cooler slowly spins up, and within a minute it drops. And the temperature readings now look like this:
- Working in Final Cut Pro X (video editing) – 94–97 degrees
- Surfing, music, instant messengers, Photoshop – 70–80 degrees
- Working in a text editor – 40–45 degrees.
The temperature in the room is a hot summer day, about 23–25 degrees.
I have NEVER seen the latter indicator on my MacBook Air. Working in complete silence is a real pleasure. Nothing distracts you, pesters you or annoys you. Was the game worth the candle? Definitely!
Battery. 40 minutes is the maximum I could afford without an outlet. After switching on, the new battery was 52% charged. We have all heard about calibration, which is associated with constant controversy and speculation.
You NEED to calibrate the battery. Of course, if you are interested in its adequate further work. What I did after the first turn on:
- Immediately connected the power adapter and charged the battery to 100%
- Discharged to 10% and recharged to 100%
- Repeated the cycle 3 times
That's it, that's enough. Don't be surprised if the program iStat Menu will constantly show different values of battery capacity and health. This is normal until the battery becomes weak, and this may require about 20–25 discharge/charge cycles.
When using the battery, try to operate in 20-100% mode. Don't let your battery run out of charge, and stop working after your Mac notifies you that critical charge. Try to remove your MacBook immediately after it is 100% charged. This way you won't have to worry about battery life or battery degradation for several years.
Of course, this is just a recommendation. Modern batteries (and even more so from Apple) are equipped with the necessary protection controllers and provide maximum service life without unnecessary “dancing with a tambourine.” Apple technology is designed for comfort, and it’s up to you to follow the operating instructions or not.
While finishing this article, my Mac promises to last another 4 hours and 15 minutes. The number of full charge cycles is 7. The temperature indicator is 46 degrees (I work on my knees). The cooler rotation speed is a minimum of 2000 rpm, but one gets the feeling that it is not working at all.
(4.75 out of 5, rated: 4 )
Today we are testing two samples.
The essence of the test is simple: we took a Macbook Pro 13’’ and alternately applied different thermal pastes (of two types) to the crystals. Using the iStat Pro widget, we recorded the CPU temperature while performing typical tasks.
Sample No. 1 - Thermal paste KPT-8 (thermal conductivity - 0.8)
Let's note the CPU temperature after turning on the Macbook Pro.
The so-called “idle” - the laptop is turned on, only the operating system and iStat Pro are running, no other applications are running:
Let's estimate the CPU temperature after watching a ten-minute video on YouTube in HD format (1080p):
Now let's see what the KPT-8 thermal paste looks like under the radiator. We disassemble the Macbook Pro.
The picture shows that even after a short period of operation “under load,” bubbles appeared in places in the KPT-8 thermal paste.
And this reduces the efficiency of the cooling system.
Sample No. 2 - Keratherm® KP92 thermal paste (thermal conductivity - 10)
Apply thermal paste to the crystals:
Checking the CPU temperature at idle:
Now let's look at the processor temperature when using Keratherm® KP92 thermal paste while watching a YouTube video in HD (1080p):
An interesting situation arose: when working “under load,” the laptop did not even have to change the fan operating mode.
But we still decided to “drive” the Macbook Pro and force it to warm up the processor and “blow out the ballast”.
And we succeeded, but only after watching three videos in a row (on YouTube, all in the same HD 1080p format)
The results of our experiments: Keratherm® KP92 thermal paste demonstrated excellent results in optimizing the temperature regime of processor chips. The higher thermal conductivity of Keratherm® KP92 thermal paste allows you to increase the load threshold on the processor without the risk of overheating. For the prevention and repair of computer cooling systems, we at MacFix chose Keratherm® KP92 thermal paste.
Remember - prevention is always cheaper than repair!
The article was prepared based on the results of repair work at the MacFix service center.
For efficient and long-lasting operation of the device, replacing the MacBook Pro thermal paste is required at least once every 2-3 years. If you often run resource-intensive programs, the processor is heated all the time and wears out faster. Thermal paste provides high thermal conductivity and prevents the device from overheating.
Dried paste creates an air gap between the radiator and the processor, which interferes with cooling. The cooler begins to work more actively and make noise, but under load it still cannot cope, and the internal elements heat up. Drying of the heat-conducting composition is inevitable. If the laptop is more than 2 years old, install a program to monitor the degree of processor heating. This way you won’t miss out when you need to take the device to a service center for preventative maintenance, toothpaste replacement and cleaning.
When does the thermal paste need to be replaced in a MacBook Pro?
For light office loads, you can change them every 3-4 years. Periodic work in “heavy” applications and games consume more resources. In this case, it is better to apply a new heat-conducting composition once every 1-2 years.
When the thermal paste needs to be replaced:
- the cooler is loud, the fan speed is high;
- the device periodically slows down;
- the case in the area where the processor is located heats up;
- The laptop turns off spontaneously, unable to withstand the load.
Replacing thermal paste on a MacBook Pro using the Doctor Mac service
We employ competent and experienced repairmen with extensive experience and a wealth of knowledge who use modern repair equipment and parts from the manufacturer. After the repair is completed, we always check the functionality of the device. Incompatibility of spare parts is excluded.
The replacement process is as follows:
- remove the motherboard;
- remove the radiator panels from the processors;
- clean off the old dried layer;
- apply and distribute the new composition;
- reattach the components.
It is not recommended to change thermal paste at home without the proper qualifications and experience, or in unverified workshops, as this can have serious consequences. Any wrong movement in contact with the motherboard will damage the laptop. Repairing or replacing the motherboard is much more expensive than changing the heat-conducting composition. Don’t take risks and trust expensive devices to proven, reliable specialists.
DrMac offers:
- free device diagnostics;
- Possibility of urgent call and repair;
- guarantee for any type of intervention;
- reasonable prices for services.
Low-quality thermal paste dries out in a month, and applying too thick a layer contributes to overheating and damage to the internal elements. In our service center, specialists use only high-quality materials and tools for repairs. The device will serve you for a long time and without problems.