Which input should I connect the speakers to? Installing speakers and connecting them to power supply
Today I will teach you how to connect 5.1 audio systems to devices without multi-channel audio support. Anyone.
So, let's imagine a situation: you already have a good multi-channel audio system. We emphasize - analog, classic connectors are used as inputs RCA (tulip). At the same time, as a result of upgrading device gadgets with suitable interfaces, the system cannot be used.
How to connect such 5.1-channel speakers to devices with HDMI/Toslink digital outputs, the popular USB, or use a stereo output? Or, how to convert multi-channel digital audio signal to multi-channel analog?
Real and “virtual” multi-channel audio
A true multi-channel audio track puts voice into the center channel and effects and music into the rear and front speakers. Or - in accordance with the distribution during recording (in some multi-channel audio standards).
“Virtual” multi-channel audio is distributed according to the spectral characteristics of the reproduced sound. Software and hardware parse the signal into components according to predetermined algorithms, and distribute sounds around the listening point, creating surround sound.
Method 1. We spare no expense on high-quality sound
The easiest way is to buy a multi-channel receiver to suit your preferences and needs. The simplest, most effective. And the most omnivorous.
The purchase will provide a variety of input/output interfaces for video and audio signals, will be able to independently decode files and will become the center of the home entertainment system. You can always choose a model with the required number of suitable inputs - and RCA in receivers is the most alive. 
Modern receivers support improved sound distribution algorithms, including Dolby Atmos, which can distribute any number of tracks to any number of speakers, taking into account the acoustic properties of the room.
The disadvantage of the solution is the cost. It starts from 10 thousand rubles for a used one and from 30 thousand for a receiver with Dolby Atmos support.
In addition, the receivers have impressive dimensions. It's good if the place and interior allow it. And if not?
Method 2. (Digital) Optical -> Multichannel Analog
This is why this article was started. I often get asked questions like: “How to connect my home cinema for a new TV? It doesn't have analog audio outputs!
Mine only has a two-channel mini-jack and optical Toslink. For the time being before purchasing new acoustics, I connected the old 5.1 set using this Chinese converter. 
Hidden inside the device is a rather primitive digital-to-analog converter and DSP processor- a chip responsible for mixing, equalizing and effects.
The application is very simple - we connect an acoustic system to the analog RCA outputs, on the other hand we supply an audio signal through a coaxial or optical connector and external power from the included power supply. 
If the signal corresponds to the number of connected acoustic channels, it passes without mixing and processing. As it is.
That is, if the film 5.1 channel audio track, and we use the appropriate audio system - the sound quality will be the same as the original.
If a two-channel track is fed to it, then the signal is converted using “virtual” mixing in the processor and distributed to all speakers.
Of course, this is very different from real 5.1-channel sound, but it still sounds nicer than regular stereo. Unless, of course, we are talking about films.
This way you can connect speakers to other devices- for example, through the usual headphone output of a laptop, tablet or player. 
But the output will only be virtual 5.1-channel sound, even if the original track is multi-channel. You won't be able to get anything else out of the stereo jack.
If necessary, the converter allows you to reproduce any incoming audio signal into two channels. Convenient for standard music systems systems 2.1, as well as in cases where the DSP converter plays the track incorrectly.
Method 3. HDMI -> Multichannel Analog
The option using HDMI is more promising, since this interface is used in modern gadgets much more often.
To transmit a multi-channel audio track, the connector in the audio source must support the HDMI Arc protocol. Otherwise, the usual stereo signal will be broadcast, which will be converted into “virtual” 5.1 by software.
If HDMI supports this function, you can purchase such a converter. This box also supports pass-through transmission of a composite signal: by connecting a source via HDMI, you can separately output sound to an audio system via coaxial, optical or analog connectors, while running the video on a projector or TV.
Method 4. USB -> Multichannel Analog
Most of the Chinese “multi-channel USB audio cards” offered on the Internet are rather primitive dupes that produce processed stereo. You won't be able to save money.
Another thing is external audio cards. Some of them are capable of producing multi-channel audio and are suitable for connecting to tablets, laptops, and desktop computers. 
Unfortunately, even Smart TV, not to mention most devices with proprietary firmware (receivers, media players) will not be able to recognize it as an audio device. Therefore, Creative Sound Blaster Omni Surround 5.1, Creative X-Fi Surround 5.1 Pro or ST Lab M-330 USB are suitable only as computer accessories, or in the case of separate broadcasting of audio and video from a computer. And this is a completely different story.
“Chinese box” or full-fledged receiver?
In fact, the choice is ambiguous. If necessary, connect multiple devices in unified system the choice is obvious.
The order in which the speakers are connected directly depends on the type of speaker system. Let's first consider what types of speakers there are and then we will provide instructions for connecting them.
Key Features
There are two main varieties columns:1. Analog.
This is the sound of the most ordinary speakers that can be easily connected to any computer or laptop. They have 1 port (if with a subwoofer, then 2) and give average quality sound, although standard user is unlikely to understand the difference.
2. Digital.
Speakers of this type produce amazingly clear sound highest quality, but connecting them is much more difficult. Moreover, the built-in sound card will not be enough to reproduce such sound. The reason is not even a lack of power or characteristics, but the number of ports (for digital audio special connectors are required).
Connection speakers of any type is carried out simple connection plugs into the corresponding sockets. Also, if the speakers are of high quality, you need to connect the power supply to an outlet or network filter. This is necessary because the power in the computer connectors will not be enough to operate a serious speaker system.
No need to worry about connecting the plugs: they are all painted in a variety of colors, which are identically repeated on the computer’s motherboard/sound board. It is impossible to make a mistake, because in addition to colors, there are other designations (drawing or inscription).
Step-by-step instruction
Let's look at how to properly connect speaker systems:1. Location of devices.
Columns analog type 2.0 and 2.1 must be placed correctly: the speakers are best installed on the sides of the monitor, and the subwoofer - arbitrarily, but to achieve maximum effect.
Each column is marked on the back: L (left, left) and R (right, right). There has been persistent debate over the location of the subwoofer for a long time, so it should be installed where the sound low frequencies will be most optimal for the user.
It is important to carefully ensure that the wires are not stretched. This will cause interference, noise, constant plug popping, and may even damage the connectors. You should also avoid twisting cables for the same reasons.
2. Connection.
The first thing you need to do is turn off your computer. Many users neglect this recommendation, but this is a safety precaution and it is better to follow it once again to avoid electric shock or voltage surges. Because food constantly “walks” around motherboard, supplying electricity to different devices, a sharp increase in power will lead to breakdown (especially if the speaker system is digital and resource-demanding).
Then the power supply is connected to an outlet or surge protector. But here you should also be careful: the surge protector is an adapter. It is understood that if plugs from appliances consuming a total of more than 220 volts are inserted into it ( maximum value sockets), then all the wiring in the house will have a very hard time: a fire may occur, and the wires will spark brightly.
Each of the plugs is painted in a specific color:
- red and white: for the right and left columns, respectively;
- green: for the socket in the computer motherboard;
- blue: for additional devices, most often - a subwoofer.
It is almost impossible to mix up the plugs: this cannot be done physically due to the peculiarities in the structure of the connectors.
You can also learn about connectors and their colors from this video.
3. Functionality check.
After direct connection speakers to the system unit and the network, you can turn on the computer. The system should automatically detect the device and install necessary drivers(Internet connection required). If this does not happen, then install software you'll have to do it yourself. If included installation disk, you should use it.
4. Digital speakers 5.1 and 7.1.
Devices of this type differ in several significant details:
- a discrete sound card is required, since the built-in one will not be able to unleash the potential of the speakers;
- digital speakers have many more cables for which there are no connectors on the motherboard itself;
- if the power supply in the system unit is weak, you will have to purchase a new one - otherwise there will not be enough power and an emergency shutdown will occur.
The highest quality and most expensive models use one specific one instead of color plugs:
- HDMI;
- S/PDIF.
Of course, such plugs should not be connected to color connectors, but to HDMI and S/PDIF, respectively (if they are on the motherboard).
This completes the connection, but there is a possibility that various errors that you will have to deal with.
Possible difficulties
It happens that the user encounters not only ordinary, but also very significant problems during the connection:1. Different connectors.
If the plugs of the cables from the speakers do not fit into any socket on the computer, then it is permissible to use adapters. However, you should not use more than one: this will require more power from the computer, and it will simply burn out. The speakers themselves may also become faulty if the adapter is defective.
This is a rather risky way to solve the problem. If possible, it is better to exchange the speaker system for other speakers that are more suitable for the computer. The user is responsible for such actions, and the warranty on the equipment is immediately void.
2. Noise, interference, distortion.
If you hear something from the speakers while listening extraneous sounds, the reasons may be:
- faulty speakers (manufacturing defect);
- incorrect connection of connectors or one of them;
- crushed, damaged, twisted wires;
- using low-quality adapters;
- wrong drivers.
Here it is important to understand whether the problem is in the computer or the speakers:
- If, after turning on the computer, the colored diode on the speakers lights up, it means that power is supplied to them and they are working (to avoid damage, you can take the speakers to service center for diagnostics or simply try to enable them on a third-party computer);
- If the speakers work properly or no faults are found, the volume may be turned off in the settings sound devices, or the volume on the speakers themselves (on the control) is turned to the minimum value;
- Damaged and loose connectors due to frequent use can also be a problem.
How to properly connect and phase speakers?
In this article we will talk about connecting speaker systems to an audio power amplifier (APA).
If you find an old Soviet amplifier and speakers in your closet or on your balcony, then do not rush to throw them away. By connecting all these rarities to the linear output of your computer, you can get good results for practically nothing.
The disadvantage of many Soviet amplifiers was poor tone control circuits. When using a computer as a signal source, you can easily compensate for this drawback using a software equalizer that comes with any sound card.
A few words about the power of speaker systems.
Speakers (speaker systems) differ in the amount of signal power supplied. There are rated, maximum and peak powers. Peak power is sometimes called maximum short-term power and even the duration of its exposure is specified.
It must be said that the value of speaker power, due to the importance of this parameter for a large group of music lovers, is interpreted differently by marketers. Often, for marketing purposes, the maximum permissible power is significantly overestimated.
As for Soviet speakers, the value of the maximum power supplied to them can be found in the accompanying documentation or here.
The documentation usually indicates two parameters, rated and nameplate power.
Rated power is the input signal power at which the speaker system can operate for a long time without significant distortion.
Nameplate power is the input signal power at which the speaker can supposedly operate limited time. In fact, using this parameter for practical purposes is quite problematic when it comes to multi-way speaker systems.
Judge for yourself. For example, you have at your disposal an audio amplifier with a power of 2x100 Watts at a load of 4 Ohms and the once popular 35AC (S90) speakers with a resistance of 4 Ohms with a nameplate power of 90 Watts.
If we connect such an amplifier to a computer and, using an equalizer, direct all the signal power to high-frequency speakers (tweeters), the power of which is only 10 watts with a resistance of 8 ohms, then it turns out that we can direct about 50 watts of power to a dynamic head designed for rated power only 10 watts and the nameplate, say, 20-30 watts. In other words, in this situation, only a miracle can save the “tweeters” from destruction.
The golden rule for connecting speakers is that the power of the speakers in any case exceeds the power of the amplifier, and the greater this excess, the better for the speakers.
Multi-way speaker systems.
Speaker systems differ in the number of frequency bands into which the amplifier's output signal is divided.
In single-way speaker systems, the entire output of the amplifier is sent to one or more identical speakers.
In two and three-way speakers, the amplifier signal is separated using passive filters that are located inside the speaker housing. Such systems use dynamic heads designed to reproduce a certain audio frequency band.
Speakers are divided into four groups: high-frequency, mid-frequency, low-frequency and full-range. By their name you can guess what frequency range they reproduce.
There are also multi-band speaker systems that do not contain bandpass filters. Such systems require a signal already divided into bands corresponding to the sound heads. In such cases, multi-band amplifiers or external filters (crossovers) are usually used.
Connecting speakers.
In the simplest, but most common case, the signal from the amplifier is supplied to the speaker via a two-pole cord. The cord has either a detachable connection to the speakers or a permanent one. 
The plug connection may look different, but in any case the terminals are marked one way or another. If there is no “+” marking, then the red color of the terminal is considered a plus.
On the opposite side, the cord must either have a plug for connection to the amplifier, or simply bare ends if the amplifier is equipped with special clamp terminals.
Soviet speakers were connected to Soviet amplifiers using three types of plugs.
The picture shows forks in the order of appearance in the trading network.
Five-pin plug (sometimes three-pin of a similar design);
Double-pole plug designed for mechanically secured sockets;
Double-pole plug for sockets intended for printed circuit mounting.
Type “2” plugs differed from “3” type plugs in that one of their contacts was shorter and, in some cases, this led to the fact that they did not provide reliable contact with sockets intended for printed circuit wiring.
When connecting speakers to the amplifier, the polarity of the connection must be observed.
Assignment of pinouts (pinout) of the plug.
"Frame"- connects to the amplifier body, which is connected to the common power cable.
"+" (plus)- connects to the output of the power amplifier.
As a cable, you can use any suitable multi-core two-wire cable, including a network cable. However, it is better to use a special audio cable, which can be found on the radio market. In such a cable, one of the wires is either painted or marked, which makes it easy to maintain the polarity of the connection.
Connection diagram of the amplifier to the speaker.
The figure shows a diagram of the correct connection of a low-frequency amplifier to speaker system.
The red arrow indicates the direction of movement of the low-frequency dynamic head cone, with a positive half-wave voltage at the amplifier output.
If you connect a battery instead of an amplifier, you can easily phase the speaker systems if the cable is not marked and there is no means for testing the cable.
We are finalizing Radio Engineering S-90 (35AC-212) 
Nameplate power... 90 W
Rated power... 35 W
Nominal electrical resistance... 4 Ohm
Frequency range... 31.5-20000 Hz
Nominal sound pressure... 1.2 Pa
Overall dimensions of the speaker... 360x710x285 mm
Speaker weight no more than... 30 kg
S-90 is a classic of Soviet column construction. According to the manual, the S-90 speaker system is designed for high-quality reproduction of sound programs in combination with various types of household radio equipment.
Well, for the early 80s these were truly outstanding speakers with high sound quality. However, foreign speaker construction is developing, and already at the beginning of the new century, the sound of the S-90 is perceived differently.
High frequencies sound disgusting, there is simply NO mids! And if we talk about bass, then a similar effect will be when placing a healthy bass player in a large kick drum... The lows drone on in black. It is impossible to listen to D&B style music; IDM also hits the ears. What can we say about classics and calm music. After an hour or two of listening, my ears begin to hurt (however, my head and stomach hurt no less). Despite these shortcomings, many people buy these speakers.
All of the following applies to Radiotechnika S-90a (AC35-212) speakers. This is one of the very first releases (and one of the best), characteristic features - 2 controls on the front panel, HF and midrange speakers shifted from the center, paired speakers, 4 Ohm impedance. However, the meaning of the modification and the modification itself can easily be applied to other S-90 (S-90b, S-90F, etc.), their analogues (Orbit, Amphiton, etc.), as well as to homemade speakers . The main criterion is the presence of 3 bands (speakers) and a bass reflex. The modification of speakers with a closed cabinet (i.e. without a bass reflex) is somewhat different, I will write about this later. And one more thing - there are many options for improvement, so in some places I will describe 2 methods. You will choose the most suitable one yourself.. I will not write a list of necessary materials - in most cases, everyone uses what is in this moment most accessible.
1) Disassembly
We take one speaker and place it on the floor with its back wall (this is the most convenient way to remove the speakers). Using a figured screwdriver, unscrew the 6 bolts securing the decorative plastic trim from the bottom of the column. Using a flat-head screwdriver, unscrew 4 bolts and remove the decorative nameplates from the speakers and the protective grilles.
Next, you will need a heated soldering iron! Then we unscrew the 4 bolts securing the woofer and carefully lift one side of it and remove it from the housing. We unsolder the wires (you can, of course, mark which one was soldered where - but it’s better to then check the diagram and solder it 100% correctly) and put it aside. We take out the midrange speaker from the housing (it was secured with a nameplate) along with the glass in which it stands. Unsolder it and put it to the woofer. We take out the HF (tweeter) - it was also attached with a nameplate and unsolder it. If there is no mark on it at one of the terminals (+), we mark which wire was soldered where, then we look where it goes according to the diagram and find “+”. We put it with the other speakers.
Be careful with diffusers! The speakers can only be grasped by the magnet or diffuser holder supports!!! Unscrew the 4 screws on the bass reflex and carefully remove it from the housing. It is held on by sealant, the main thing here is not to use excessive force - it may break! We take out 2 “sausages” of cotton wool from the body (if it is there). We unscrew and remove the filter from the housing (it can be either on an iron chassis or on a wooden plank). The wires going to it can be cut off with wire cutters (they still need to be replaced early). That's all with disassembly! Now we need to finalize and assemble.
2) Modification of the case - it is advisable to strengthen the back side of the case with wooden slats (attached with screws and epoxy). It is also necessary to place a wooden spacer in the center of the speaker (between the rear wall and the front) at the level of the midrange glass. (the main thing is to pay attention to the possibility of then installing a bass reflex!!!) This is necessary to reduce vibrations of the body - turn it up loud and put your hand on it - the body shakes! You also need to check the tightness of the housing at the joints and, if necessary, coat the joints with epoxy glue or sealant.
3) Refinement of the filter: You will need a diagram.
The point is to remove the switches from the circuit, replace the wires with audio made of oxygen-free copper, solder the speakers directly to the filter, solder the supply wire directly to the filter and shorten the signal path
In the absence of finances, you can also supply suitable copper ones from the Soviet Union. The point of selecting wires is to have a multi-core wire for the woofer, the larger the better (but not less than 2.5 mm2, and it’s bad to solder more than 4 mm2), for the midrange you can have a multi-core of at least 1.5 mm2, and for the high-frequency one you can have a single-core of at least 1 mm2 (I recommend using a core from a twisted pair cable of the fifth category for + and -). It should be said that the selection of wires is a delicate matter. There are still fierce discussions about the choice of wire for speakers. I express my personal opinion. I advise you not to skimp and buy at least the cheapest audio cable! The sound quality greatly depends on it! Take my word for it.
I also highly recommend remounting all the filter parts on a small piece of plywood/wood, so that you can place the filter on the bottom of the speaker, next to the bass reflex. This is important (especially if the filter is mounted on an iron plate). Attach the inductors to new board It is necessary not with iron screws, but with something plastic or mounted on epoxy. So, we replace all the wires on the filter board - we install it directly to the outputs of the capacitors, removing the contact plates from them.
I will not give the sequence for replacing the wires. As well as tips on where to solder the wires from the bass, midrange and treble. I hope you figure it out :). If you can’t cope, invite knowledgeable person(one that can distinguish a capacitor from a resistor will do). As a last resort, write to me by e-mail [email protected]. We're done with the filter - put it aside.
4) Hull damping:
The point is to, if possible, absorb and dissipate all standing waves inside the housing. The criterion for choosing a material is that the denser and thicker it is (felt), the better it absorbs; the thinner and lighter it is (sintepon), the worse it is. The best way to make a pancake is to coat the body with sound-absorbing mastic (automotive mastic will do), then glue a layer of felt under 1 cm + the low-frequency part with another such layer and stick chaotically pieces of felt on top. They also recommend covering it with a layer of material for kitchen hoods - I don’t know, I haven’t seen it. I did this myself - everything is upholstered with 1.5 cm felt + the bottom part is another 1.5 cm + pieces. The sound absorber must be glued throughout the entire inside of the housing. After installing the first layer of felt, I recommend placing a filter board (with wires soldered to it) and a bass reflex port on the bottom of the speaker (otherwise you won’t be able to put it in later!), placing the remaining layers of sound absorber while closing the filter. and also wrap the bass reflex with a sound absorber (the main thing is not to cover the internal section of the pipe and maintain direct access from the bass diffuser to the bass reflex). It is necessary to look at the internal volume of the case - you cannot reduce it excessively - it will affect the depth of the bass! The body is finished.
By the way, I advise those who want to find household felt, about 1.5 cm thick.
5) Midrange speaker and its glass.
I highly recommend replacing the standard 15GD-11A (or its clone) with a broadband 6-GDSH-5-4 or 6-GDSH-5-8. The difference between them is that the first has a resistance of 4 ohms, and the second has 8 ohms. Accordingly, when installing 6-GDSH-5-8, the filter does not need to be changed, and when installing 6-GDSH-5-4, put a 4 Ohm large resistor (6-10 W) power. Resistor R3 (4.3 Ohm) from the midrange divider (columns 35AC212) is just suitable for this. Don't worry about losing power with this swap! You will only benefit in sound quality. The method has already been tested on many S-90s, negative reviews no, the power has not decreased. Moreover, competitors for the 6-GDSh-5 still need to be looked for (even among foreign analogues). And this is when the cost of a pair of these broadband speakers (new!) is $4-6. They have only one minus - appearance. Although I like it :).
For the midrange you need to make a PAS. This means covering the windows of the diffuser holder on the back of the speaker with a layer of foam rubber 0.5-0.8 cm thick. Quilted batting will also work. It is convenient to cut a strip of foam rubber 4-5 cm wide and a length equal to slightly less than the perimeter of the speaker, sew it and stretch it over the windows (for 15GD-11A). Then sew with threads to the supports. We made a PAS (be sure to do it - it degrades the quality factor, which is vital for almost all Soviet midranges used in the S-90 15GD11, and even more so!) - you can install the glass and speaker in place. Insert the glass into the body and wrap the outside in 2-3 layers of a good, dense sound absorber. It is convenient to cut off a boot boot from a felt boot that is suitable in height and width, place it in the body, and then place a glass of midrange in it. The inside of the glass also needs to be covered with a layer of sound absorber (felt is just right). The purpose of such damping is to eliminate the influence of the low-frequency head on the midrange. Then you need to put fluffy cotton wool in the glass and you can put the midrange speaker in place. First check that its phasing is correct.
When you connect a 1.5V AA battery + to + the speaker, and - to -, the diffuser moves forward. Checking phasing is important! We solder the wires to it (+ according to the diagram to + on the speaker) and place them in the housing through the rubber gasket, between the midrange and the glass. Rubber 2-3mm thick. It is convenient to use window rubber insulation made in the form of hollow tubes and with a self-adhesive side.
We install the speaker, seal it with plasticine and screw it on top with a nameplate, placing rubber gaskets on the screws between it and the speaker. It is better not to install a protective grille - it spoils the sound. Have you seen good imported speakers with grilles on the speakers? When installing 6-GDSH-5 under the nameplate, you will need to put rubber gaskets about 1 cm thick on the screws.
More about the midrange speaker. If you don’t want to install another midrange driver, you can modify the old one, for example like this. Although if you have a speaker with a rubber, rather than fabric, surround, it’s better to go for the 6GDSh!
This sweet word is cotton wool... It greatly affects both the overall sound and the bass in particular! So one day I reduced its amount by half. The speakers began to emit not bass, but some kind of hum...
So, we sew a couple of gauze bags (35 cm by 35 cm) and fill them with cotton wool from the 2 sausages that were removed from the body, so that almost the entire sausage goes into the first bag, and less than half of the second into the second bag. Fluff the cotton wool. We place these bags in top part housings for socket
HF and next to the midrange glass. We fluff the remaining half of the cotton sausage and simply throw it on the bottom of the column, on the filter wrapped in felt. In my opinion, this is the best placement of cotton wool in these columns.
7) HF head.
Solder according to the diagram. We put it into the body through a rubber gasket and screw it on top with a nameplate. We also don’t install a protective grille! Uhh... A hell of a job has been done, but there is very little left! Let's continue.
8) woofer.
We solder it (it is advisable to check the phasing, as well as the midrange) and place it through a rubber gasket (required!), fasten it with bolts, again through rubber washers and seal it with plasticine sealant. We put a nameplate on top.
9)End of assembly.
We install the plastic front, tighten all the bolts and wipe the front panel.
Yes - a few little things (quite important!): run the wires to the HF and MF under a layer of sound absorber, and wrap them around the LF; carefully check the phasing, keep in mind that the bass and midrange in the S-90 are connected in antiphase; be sure to place the speakers on rubber pads; remove all parts from the plates of the disconnected HF and MF dividers, and cover them with a sound absorber; don't skimp on wires; remove the grilles; do not suffocate the volume; the bass reflex pipe must communicate freely with the surface of the speaker diffuser; gauze is clamped inside the bass reflex pipe - it is needed there; place the speakers on spikes (for example like this); It is better to immediately solder the connecting cable to the filter; it is much cheaper than buying good connectors.
Before your new sound system can provide you with clear sound, it must be properly connected to your desktop personal computer or laptop. All speaker wires must be connected to their intended ports for everything to work properly. If you make a mistake with the connection, it is quite possible that the sound will not appear at all.
Variety of sound systems
Let us immediately note that the method of connecting speakers to a computer differs depending on the type of sound system available. It may be one of the following types:
- analog;
- digital.
The main difference between them is that the first type of equipment has two front speakers (in 2.0 systems) or two speakers and a subwoofer (for 2.1 systems), while digital equipment– 5 or 7 speakers that perform different tasks. Connection is carried out in different ways:
- analog speakers are connected to 3.5 Mini-jack type ports - each speaker has its own port, for convenience, painted in a certain color - stereo systems have one port, surround sound systems have 3 or 5 ports;
- connecting digital sound systems to a computer is done by connecting all channels to one port - HDMI or S/PDIF - the sound is much cleaner and clearer, but such systems are much more expensive than analog ones.
In order not to get tangled in wires and to make your speakers produce sound without problems, you should thoroughly understand the diagram of their connection to the computer. Even in the case of a complex 7.1 system, the entire procedure will take no more than half an hour.
Connection procedure
As already noted, the sequence differs depending on the type of system. How to understand what type of purchased speakers belong to? It's very simple - you just need to look at the cables you have. If there are many of them and they have thin plugs (3.5 mm in diameter), like headphones, the system is analog. If there is only one cable, it is digital. The most common are two-channel systems (2.0/2.1), they are always analog.
Connecting 2.0 and 2.1 speakers
What do these numbers actually mean? They indicate the easiest-to-understand parameter of a sound system – the number of pieces of equipment. The number before the dot indicates the number of speakers - in this case there are two: right and left front channels. The second number refers to the number of subwoofers - devices that are designed to enhance low-frequency sound (bass). There is no more than one subwoofer. Sometimes it happens that the subwoofer is not separate device, but built into one of the speakers, especially if both channels come out of the same box.
So, how do you connect a 2.0 or 2.1 system to your computer? The whole procedure consists of two stages:
- physical connection of devices;
- Setting up your computer to output sound.
Let's deal with the first stage first. Physically connecting two speakers is very simple:
- The speakers are placed on the sides of the monitor or in another chosen location. For ease of sound perception, the right channel should be placed on the right, the left channel on the left. This can be understood either by the markings on the speakers, or by the presence of controls - the light indication and the volume control wheel are usually located on the main (left) channel.
- The system connects to electrical network 220 V. After this, you need to check whether the speakers are working - pull the power lever, if available, and see if the light indication turns on. If everything is good, move on to the next step.
- Inspect carefully back panel your computer. On it you will see three (or more) round inputs of the sound card built into the motherboard, which is responsible for processing sound information. These inputs are color coded, from left to right:
- pink – for microphone;
- green (lime) – for front (regular) speakers - what we need;
- blue – line input for auxiliary devices (for example, subwoofer).
Thus, the built-in sound card of most motherboards is not intended for multi-channel systems, much less for outputting digital audio.
The system is connected to a laptop in exactly the same way, only you won’t be able to connect an amplifier: most often laptops don’t have line input. Color coding is also rare, but you can understand the purpose of the inputs by the icons drawn next to them.
After physical connection, the computer must be configured so that it can output sound through the connected equipment. This procedure consists of the following steps:
- Turn on the computer. Probably any modern system It will detect the speakers itself, download and install drivers for them, and everything will work instantly. But if this does not happen, we move on.
- You need to download special software from the motherboard manufacturer's website, which is then installed. The computer must be restarted after installation is complete.
- After the reboot is complete, everything will work without further configuration - all you have to do is adjust the volume and you can enjoy the sound!
As you can see, no difficulties can arise with connecting conventional two-channel systems. If the sound still doesn’t come out, it means something is broken – this needs to be looked into separately.
Connecting 5.1 and 7.1 systems
There is no point in analyzing in detail the process of connecting multi-channel systems - in general outline it is similar to the connection process regular speakers to the computer. Just a few features are worth noting.
The main one is that for 5.1 and 7.1 systems you will need a special sound card with multi-channel support - the built-in board of a desktop PC or laptop will no longer work. A discrete card is not very expensive, and high-quality audio processing and output will undoubtedly pay for the purchase.
A discrete sound card differs from a built-in one in the number of outputs. On it you will find the following connectors:
- microphone jack;
- input for front speakers;
- inputs for auxiliary speakers;
- line input for subwoofer;
- digital output S/PDIF.
The cables have a slightly different structure - at one end you will find a tulip - two plugs, white and red, and at the other - a 3.5 mm plug. The tulip is connected to the speaker, and the mini-jack is connected to one or another input on the sound card. Usually everything is painted in matching colors, so it’s difficult to get confused.
After connecting all the cables, all that remains is to configure the computer. As in the previous case, sound drivers are installed, which are then switched to surround sound mode.
It is worth remembering that the sound will be surround sound - that is, all available speakers will sound - only if the audio track being played is designed for this. When playing regular stereo recordings, only two front speakers will work - don’t be afraid of this, this does not mean at all that the brand new surround sound system is broken.
It is very convenient to listen to music or watch a movie on a personal PC. The absence of annoying advertising and the ability to stop watching a movie at any time are a significant advantage over television viewing. Yes and availability special programs allows you to communicate with friends and family at any time of the day. But in order for sound to be transmitted, the computer must be equipped with speakers. For users who have nothing to do with technology, it is sometimes very difficult to connect audio equipment. In our article we will look at how to connect speakers to a computer without an amplifier.
The presence of two RCA inputs on the speakers, the so-called tulips, allows you to connect using a Mini jack audio cable (3.5 mm jack) to 2 RCA. Mini jack must be connected to a sound card that has a green output when using them as front speakers or as a stereo pair. Or you can use a 2 RCA-2 RCA audio cable and a mini jack adapter that operates on 2 RCA inputs.
Each column has 2 terminals. In this case, you can completely use a cable from any headphones with a 3.5 mm mini Jack. For this:
- You should carefully cut off the speakers and thoroughly strip the wire.
- After this, connect the stripped ends to the terminals, and the mini Jack to the sound card.
Important! If you want to find a use for a decent music center, then it is best to purchase an inexpensive stereo amplifier, which will fully justify your costs.
At similar method connecting speakers to a computer, you will not be able to achieve high-quality sound effect due to the low power indicator, the output will be only a few watts. But this option is quite justified, since in any case, to function as a passive speaker, you need to connect an amplifier. Otherwise, the speakers would simply gather dust on the shelves or, as unnecessary, they would have to be thrown into the trash.
How to connect active 5.1 speakers to a computer?
Before you start connecting speakers to your computer, you need to carefully study the capabilities of your audio card. To do this, you need to figure out how many inputs your PC’s sound card has. Once you know the number of “sockets” on your computer, you can make a connection. When connecting 5.1 speakers, you will have to use several jacks.
How to connect old ones active speakers to a computer without an amplifier:
- We select the green cable from the speakers, which is the signal cable.
- We connect it to the audio output connector, which is located on the rear plane system unit and having exactly the same green tint.
- Turn on the computer.
- We turn on the speakers and check the sound.
Important! If there are no sound levers in the speakers, then you should find a subsection on the control panel that is responsible for audio devices and sounds.
- After that, turn on the “sound”.
- Already in the panel we adjust the volume.
How to connect active 5.1 speakers to an old computer?
If your PC is an old modification and a little outdated, then the connection process is slightly different from the previous method. To connect active 5.1 speakers you need to do the following:
- We connect the cables to the connectors. To do this, you need to navigate the volume control module by colors.
- We connect the power supply, subwoofer, and speakers, paying attention to the polarity of the connectors.
- We connect cables of the appropriate colors to the computer connectors.
- We connect the front speaker cable to the green output.
- We connect the rear speaker cables to the blue connector.
- We connect the subwoofer cable to the pink input.
- If necessary, into the connector Pink colour We also connect the microphone.
- We configure the computer by selecting six-channel mode.
How to connect a speaker system to a computer?
In principle, connecting ordinary speakers to a computer is not difficult, but connecting a speaker system can cause many difficulties for many users. In such a situation, there are several methods to solve this problem.
How to connect speakers to a computer without an amplifier? - First you need to determine the number of outputs or jacks that the sound card has in your computer.
7.1 system For modern built-in sound cards, it is possible to use 7.1 acoustics, which is indicated by colored sockets on the motherboard.
Each color has its own purpose:
- green output, related to the front or so-called front speakers;
- the orange plug supports the center channel and subwoofer;
- black socket - for rear or rear speakers;
- exit gray directed to the side speakers, or they are also called surround speakers;
- The blue socket is used for a line input, which can be used, for example, for a player or electric-acoustic guitar;
- The pink output operates the microphone.
System 5.1
To connect speakers to a 5.1 speaker system, you will have to use several sockets that have the corresponding shades - green, orange and black. Here's how to connect to your computer passive speakers and a 5.1 subwoofer from the acoustic center:
- On the rear panel of the system unit, we connect the cable with a green plug to the audio output connector, which is also green.
- Based on the colors, we connect the remaining cables to the corresponding connectors on the sound card control module.
Important! While connecting the cable to the sound card, the program displays which type of speaker corresponds to a specific socket. As a result, all three of the above-mentioned connectors must be used.
- We connect the subwoofer and speakers with an RCA-RCA cable, and connect one end of the cable to the subwoofer, since most often it contains an amplifier. We connect the other end to the corresponding speaker.
Important! To make sure there is no mistake, each RCA output on the subwoofer is labeled based on the type of speaker.
- We set up the computer, select six-channel mode and use the sound card driver application, Windows Sound Control Panel.
Important! If you have a 7.1 speaker system, you will have to additionally use the gray connector on the motherboard to use side speakers.
- As a last resort, you can use the instructions for the motherboard, especially when you have to connect the headphone and microphone jacks on the front panel of the system unit of the computer device.
Connecting speakers to a computer via S/PDIF (digital output)
When you connect 5.1 speakers via SPDIF, you will have to prepare an SPDIF cable. For this purpose, you can use both optical and coaxial cable:
Coaxial - SPDIF inputs and outputs are made on RCA type connectors. The digital signal is transmitted via a regular cable with appropriate connectors. A device that receives interference impulses filters them out, but there is still a possibility of losing some data.
Optical SPDIF uses optical cable to transmit data. Inputs and outputs are made on Toslink type connectors, closed with plugs. Their presence helps to very quickly determine the type of interface. In addition, Creative sound cards also use an optical interface using a mini Toslink cable. The optical cable does not respond to magnetic fields, since data is transmitted in the form of light pulses. Therefore, there is an opinion that optical interface digital data transfer occurs much more best protection from external influence than coaxial. Satellite receivers are used exactly optical type SPDIF interface.
Important! When choosing a connection type, you must take into account the type of interface for the connection external sources signal on the amplifier housing of the used speaker system. To do this, you need to connect the cable to the digital output on the motherboard and connect it to the desired digital input connector on the speaker system. In the audio card interface, you should change the output port, while changing analog signal to digital. Unless, of course, the driver has the ability to determine the connection to the digital output itself.
How to connect speakers for games?
How to connect passive speakers to a computer without an amplifier? Games are able to output sound directly, without using various compressions. Therefore, it is still not possible to create larger stereo sound from a game via S/PDIF.
To correct this shortcoming, you need to purchase a sound card that can support Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect. These technologies have the ability to instantly encode multi-channel audio from a game in 5.1 or 7.1 digital signal Dolby Digital or DTS and transmit directly via S/PDIF. In the practical operation of one of the described technologies, all audio played on the analog outputs is re-encoded and sent to digital S/PDIF.
Let's look at how to get 5.1 sound from any source, for this:
- In settings sound card select one of the presented 5.1 audio encoding technologies: Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect.
- In the settings panel Windows sound select the main device analog outputs sound card.
User Misconceptions
Not owning necessary information, some users have misconceptions that can significantly complicate the process of using speakers. Let's look at the most common ones:
When the game ends, you must switch to the initial state to correct operation. If one of the on-the-fly encoding technologies is always enabled, then you will not be able to view and listen to files with multi-channel audio. Since they are encoded, they must be output directly to S/PDIF.
Important! In fact, you shouldn't switch anything. When watching a movie in stereo, it is displayed at 5.1. When you watch a video with a DTS or Dolby track, the sound is perfectly distributed across channels. This situation is very clearly visible even on a player that has the ability to switch audio tracks eg The KMPlayer.
The process of on-the-fly encoding of a stereo signal from an mp3 file using DTS Connect or Dolby Digital Live is several times inferior to the hardware decomposition of such sound on a receiver or speakers.
Important! This is wrong. When connecting acoustics of similar quality to the receiver, no significant difference is observed. The main thing is to adhere to the following condition, under which you do not forget to disable the options in the settings of THX Studio Pro or in a similar “equalizer” of the sound card. Otherwise, they are created various effects, for example, a voice may stand out on a common background picture sound. In addition, the sound card plays a big role. Creative Titanium HD does this very well.
How to connect active speakers to a TV?
How to connect speakers without an amplifier not only to a computer, but also to a TV? There is nothing difficult about connecting speakers to a TV. For this, two RCA-RCA or tulip-tulip cables are used. First you need to determine the presence of RCA inputs on the rear panel of the speakers. The presence of RCA inputs allows you to connect some ends of the cable to the L and R outputs, and the other to the speakers.
Important! If the speakers have only one cable with a mini Jack at the end, then the connection is made into the headphone jack on the TV.
When connecting a music center, an RCA-RCA cable is also used, which is connected to the L and R outputs television device. After this, the AUX mode is set on the music center, the RCA cable is connected to AUX input, located on the rear plane of the music device.
Important! If your TV has an audio output that looks like a mini Jack socket, which is usually black, you will have to use a mini Jack-2 RCA adapter cable.
Video
In this article we have covered everything possible options speaker connections. We hope that now you have no questions about this, and you can get high-quality sound for any purpose.