Test and review: three power supplies with passive cooling.
Those who had to build a quiet or completely silent computer faced the main obstacle - installing silent block nutrition. It turns out that while other sources of excess sound can be dealt with, the rustling noise created by the power supply fan often becomes an impossible task.
For example, if a video card makes noise, then you can replace it with silent analogues or purchase a motherboard with Although this procedure will reduce Then the annoying case fan can also be replaced with a more massive, quiet one, say, from Zalman. This will reduce the overall background without reducing performance. And finally, the processor cooler can be easily replaced with a more bulky one, which will allow you to passively cool the not very powerful “stone”.
Even low noise HDD and it can be replaced with an SSD or HDD with a larger capacity, but a lower rotation speed per low frequencies.
Thus, with some effort and a little financial investment, you can significantly reduce the noise from your computer, and with a large investment, you can assemble a completely silent case system unit.
However, the most difficult task is since it is involved in powering all devices located in the Even if individual devices take a little electricity, then they collaboration shows a decent value. The only exceptions are components of nettops or laptops that have low consumption.
This issue can be resolved in several ways. For a computer based on low-power and small systems You can use an external silent power supply. These are motherboards with a Mini-ITX form factor. They are provided with compact housings that come complete with external device for nutrition, reminiscent standard block power from laptop. The advantage of this system is its compactness, low heat generation and complete absence noise. However, in in this case you will have to sacrifice performance: these devices are rather weak and have limited opportunities.
The second solution may be to install a high-quality fan, for example, from Zalman. And you will get a silent power supply. In this case, you will need to arm yourself with a soldering iron, since the fan located in the power supply is usually soldered. At the same time, it is recommended to break off and solder standard plugs (3-pin) to the wires. This will allow you to insert a resistance into the gap, which will help regulate the fan speed.
The most expensive and radical solution would be to purchase a device such as a power supply with passive cooling. It turns out that this is possible. In these devices, the cooling function is assigned to the power supply housing, which usually has a massive ribbed surface, which is involved in the heat exchange process. Power supplies from FSP and Zalman perform well. The only negative This design is due to its high price. But the result justifies the investment. The result is a completely silent power supply that will allow you to achieve complete silence without the need for modifications.
You should also pay attention to limiting the maximum power of such devices. While a conventional power supply can have a power reaching one kilowatt or more, devices with passive cooling rarely reach 500 kW. But for modern powerful gaming machines with energy-intensive high-performance video cards, such power supply parameters will not be enough.
So, if you need to get quiet way to achieve this goal remains with the user.
After buying my first computer, for some reason I wanted to work on it at night. Maybe because no one interferes, maybe because I think differently at night, I don’t know. However, there was a desire and in order to realize it, a computer with minimum level noise. This idea remained an idea, if not for the boss, who was also keen on modernizing and reducing the noise from his computer. The result was silent computer a photo of which can be seen at the end of the article.
Article structure
1. Types and sources of noise in a computer
There are two types of noise: vibration and acoustic (from air flows). There are several sources of noise: case fans, CPU cooling system, video card cooling system, motherboard cooling system (and this happens), reading devices optical disks And .
There are two options to reduce computer noise: reduce the number of noise sources and reduce the noise level of the sources themselves. The greatest effect is obtained when using two options. There's nothing you can do about optical disc readers except don't install them at all. (In this case, how to install operating system You can read it from a flash drive).
Let's look at options for reducing noise levels for major computer components.
Test configuration:
- : Intel Core2Duo E8500
- : Radeon HD3870
- : AEROCOOL AeroEngine Plus Black
2. Fans and case for a quiet computer
In the basic configuration, the case had 3 fans with a diameter of 180, 140 and 120 mm. 180 mm on the side wall - blowing, 140 - in front - blowing and 120 - exhaust at the rear.
There was also a turbine in front of the 140 mm fan, which rotated from the air flow created by the fan. Since the turbine’s function was purely decorative, it was immediately removed.
For rational cooling of the case, it is necessary that cold air enters and hot air is expelled. From school curriculum It is known that cold air sinks and hot air rises. Based on this, it is recommended to set the lower fans for blowing, and the upper ones for blowing. Then cold air from below enters the case, heats up, cools, rises and is thrown out of it by the upper fans.
Since I had two exhaust fans: one cabinet fan and the other on, it was decided to turn off the cabinet fan and look at it. It is convenient to monitor the system using the AIDA64 program ( old name Everest). Almost nothing has changed and the fan has left the confines of my case.
Next it is worth paying attention Special attention air flows inside the case to reduce resistance and improve system cooling. It is necessary to determine all the openings of the housing and understand what air enters or exits through them. In this case, like most, there were holes everywhere except at the bottom and top.
To eliminate the remaining noise sources 180 mm and 140 mm, it was necessary to ensure sufficient cooling. To do this, I made the side covers of the case airtight by removing 180 mm and inserting acrylic inserts there instead of plastic grilles.
It turned out beautifully and effectively. After these improvements, cold air could enter the case through the front panel using 140 mm and through the holes on the rear surface of the case (where 120 mm was removed for exhaust).
With such a cooling system, it turned out that the power supply, which should pull warm air from the entire case, pulls the air entering through back panel. The decision was made to cover the rear vents.
Now cold air only entered through 140 mm on the front panel. This fan was the loudest because it was closest to me. I tried to turn it off. The temperature of the HDD and . Everything was normal and 140 mm left the body.
The system has become significantly quieter. There are only 3 fans left: in the power supply, in the video card cooling system and in the cooling system. Also for more better cooling The plates covering the connectors for the expansion slots were removed so that cold air would enter through the lower front and rear openings and cool the HDD and video card. At this point my executions on the body stopped.
Conclusion. It is necessary to ensure that cold air enters the housing from below, and warm air is exhausted from above. The ideal option is perforation on the bottom and top panels housings. I didn’t do it myself because it ruined it a lot appearance. Excess openings that interfere or create interference with the passage of air in the housing must be closed (openings in the side covers). I also think that there should not be fans smaller than 120 mm in a quiet, especially silent, computer. Fans of 92 mm and 80 mm, to create the same air flow as 120 mm, require a higher rotation speed and, as a result, higher noise. Therefore, if you have such fans, try replacing them with 120 mm ones. Regarding the company, pay attention to Noctua fans. They are all made using fluid dynamic bearings. Those. There is virtually no friction, which has a positive effect on durability, reliability and noise characteristics. Also, some models include adapters with soldered resistors to reduce the rotation speed.
Noctua NF-P12 PWM fan kit
As can be seen in the figure above, the kit may also include silicone fan holders (used to prevent the transfer of vibrations from the fan to the case).
3. Video card for a silent computer
The next element that craved my attention was. This series of cards is distinguished by the fact that it heats up to its full potential and, accordingly, produces decent noise. This can be clearly heard until the operating system boots.
I tested the design with WarCraft 3. The temperature reached 95 degrees, but the game ran smoothly. The idle temperature did not rise above 50 degrees Celsius. Already good, but if you play, you will have to install 120 mm for airflow.
After a thorough search, an add-on from the same company was found, which was installed on reverse side graphics chip. Another 30 minutes and the temperature dropped by almost 5 degrees. This completes the process of upgrading the cooling of the video adapter.
Conclusion. If possible, use integrated graphics. If the first option is not suitable, pay attention to video cards with passive cooling.
If you want to play serious games, then immediately choose a cooling system for it.
The latest version of the DeepCool Dracula cooler can even cope with the Radeon HD 7970, but when installing two 120 mm fans. With such power you can forget about passive cooling, but this system cooling is made so that you don’t hear the video card in the system.
4. The motherboard is the basis of a silent computer
In most cases motherboards are produced with passive cooling, but there are exceptions.
I have already expressed my attitude towards fans less than 120 mm in diameter. This board only has a 5-year warranty. In any case, it is worth choosing with passive system cooling. Fewer moving parts means higher product reliability.
My computer was based on ASUS P5Q
Everything was fine, but when feeling the radiator on the south bridge (the leftmost yellow small one) it was noticed (subjectively about 70°). Naturally, the question arose of replacing the cooling system with Thermalright Chipset Heatsink HR-05 SLI/IFX.
Everything was great, but during installation I screwed the heatsink too tightly and damaged the board. The situation was successfully resolved by the choice of the mother ASUS boards P5Q Pro with a more developed chipset cooling system).
From P5Q to P5Q Pro, only the heatsink for the mosfets (processor batteries) at the very top of the motherboard migrated.
The system took the following form
After replacing there is nothing else in motherboard not modernized.
5. Hard drive. Mounting and cooling
This is the source of vibration in the first place. It must be isolated from the body. The ideal option is to hang it on something. In my case it turned out to be . The effect was amazing, as if the hard drive was working wrapped in a T-shirt.
It’s also a great option to cover the contact points between the hard drive and the case with electrical tape, if you have direct contact, not through the slide (as in my photo).
Why is my HDD upside down? The fact is that in 2009, new HP dv5750 was installed at work. Every computer had a hard drive upside down. The question arose of how such a reputable company as HP “installed it incorrectly” hard disks. Taking a closer look, you can find that with the “correct” location of the HDD, heated air is trapped in the cavities at the bottom of the hard drive. With the “wrong” location, the heated air rose upward without obstacles. Therefore, it was decided to master the position upside down.
I note that one of hard drives On the 1.5 TB Seagate it completely refused to start. I had to use it for backup along with the docking station in a vertical position.
To dampen HDD vibrations, there are ways with large capital investments and with questionable effectiveness are perfectly described in this article. The exception is SCYTHE QUIET DRIVE
This cooling system copes well not only with vibrations, but also with hard drive noise. The temperature remains the same as without the muffler.
The hard drive cooling policy for a silent computer does not include the use of active systems cooling. Maximum, if you have several HDDs, use 120 mm at 500-800 rpm to blow air across the entire basket.
Almost all passive cooling systems force us to install the HDD in the bay. optical drives 5.25″. There is practically no flow of cold air there and this will negatively affect the temperature HDD mode. If you are assembling a quiet or silent computer, then it is recommended to use economical and cool ones - for example, “green” ones from WD.
Minimal heat generation eliminates the use of active cooling.
Also, pay attention to the systems for attaching the HDD to the basket or to the case. Many case manufacturers equip their products with anti-vibration rubber gaskets. In buildings high level a lot of attention is paid to this.
Conclusion. Use one HDD in the system or, better than SSHD. If you need performance, install . If you need capacity, use it, but also with a passive cooling system. If using external HDDs is not suitable, try using two green drives and space them as far apart as possible in the case. For example, insert into the lowest and highest bays in the hard drive cage. For me optimal solution is use . They have a reduced spindle speed and have several gigabytes of flash memory for increased performance.
6. CPU cooling
Naturally, in the summer it makes quite a noise when under load. How to be
- Option 1: Replace the fan with a 120mm or larger one. In this case, you can reduce the speed as much as possible and obtain sufficient cooling with a low noise level.
- Option 2. Replace the radiator with a model with a larger dispersion area and, if necessary, install a 120 mm fan.
I was interested in the maximum weight of the radiator, since the principle of “bigger is better” works here like nowhere else.
Also, when choosing a cooling system, you need to pay attention to the distance between the aluminum plates (fins). The greater the latter, the better the air convection and more efficient system cooling. 2 mm or more is recommended.
Based on this information, my search stopped at Cooler Master Hyper Z600
The weight of 1045 grams finally dispelled all doubts and, in addition, this model appeared on the store counter. 45 minutes and the radiator was ready to remove 65 W of the declared heat dissipation from the processor.
It didn’t rise above 55 degrees in the game, which also freed me from using a fan.
Click on the picture to enlarge it
It was also installed additional HDD. To increase the air flow through them, the openings for expansion cards were sealed. As a result, I added about 3 degrees, but both HDDs felt great.
Conclusion. Replace fans with 120 mm ones and, if desired, replace the radiator.
7. Silent computer power supply
This device is a little more difficult to work with, since most power supplies do not have the ability to monitor fan speed. A certain circuit is responsible for cooling, which, depending on the temperature, regulates the speed of the Carlson.
The recommendations are the same. Replace the fan and connect it to the motherboard so that you can at least somehow control the process. For a silent computer, it is recommended to pay attention to Seasonic units of the Fanless or FSP series.
These power supplies do not have a fan. It is thanks to such solutions that any user’s dream of a silent computer can be realized).
It is more efficient to install these components with a bottom-mounted power supply. Since warm air will rise up unhindered, even if slightly heating other components. When positioned at the top, the power supply is in an inverted position, which greatly complicates ventilation. With this arrangement, warm air from other components may enter the power supply, which can also aggravate the situation.
Conclusion. In the existing power supply, replace the fan with a slower one and connect it to. When choosing a new unit, choose solutions that are fanless or certified to the Gold or Platinum efficiency standard. Due to high efficiency These blocks spend a minimum of energy on heating = they heat up less = their fans run quieter. Also, some units up to a certain load, for example up to 300 W, can operate in passive mode.
Conclusion
In this article, we looked at how to make a completely silent computer, as well as how to reduce the noise from an existing one. The basic advice still applies. It is necessary to reduce the number of noise sources and quiet the remaining ones. The system should not contain fans smaller than 120 mm in diameter. This will allow you to achieve your desired level of comfort.
I managed to get my system down to just one fan. I wish you to surpass my results.
About . Radiators are only needed during extreme overclocking with increased voltage. In all other cases, this is just a good marketing ploy (which I fell for).
Why are my radiators pressed to the modules with paper pins, to improve contact and for more efficient cooling).
The promised photo of the latest version of my computer. Click on the picture to enlarge
If you have any questions or questions, I will be happy to answer them.
A few years ago, fanless power supplies were considered very important components of a quiet system, then demand for them fell somewhat due to the proliferation of models with very quiet active cooling. But passively cooled power supplies are still relevant in many areas, so we decided to test a few best models On the market. Seasonic power supplies from the X-Series line are considered by many users to be the standard in this segment, and the Super Flower company with latest model Golden Silent Fanless 500W presented an interesting alternative with 80 PLUS Platinum certification. The third candidate in our tests is the Silverstone Nightjar 500W power supply, which also turned out to be very interesting.
As we have already mentioned, the range of passive models on the market is significantly inferior to conventional power supplies with active cooling. Among the well-known options are the well-known FSP Zen line, which has already become part of history, as well as the recently released Aurum Xilenser line, also from FSP Fortron / Source, which has not yet appeared in Russia. In our article we will test three power supplies that are noticeably different from each other. Seasonic's X-460FL (SS-460FL) power supply leaves the impression that the engineers simply forgot to install a fan. Everything, of course, is not so simple, but the developers have worked hard to optimize the model, which uses natural ventilation without additional radiators and works very well. Silverstone and Super Flower chose the classic route with additional radiators. Unlike previous generations, the surface of the radiators has become smaller, but they are still noticeable due to the additional weight.
You should decide right away whether you need a completely passive power supply. If you are just building a “quiet” computer that will use other fans, then a power supply with active cooling is quite suitable for it. There are very quiet models on the market, in particular from the company be quiet!, which cannot be heard even at close range under average load. Only when you have silenced all other system components to achieve the "0 dB" passive cooling bar can you turn your attention to completely passive power supplies.
Three power supplies in our testing: in the lower left corner of the SilverStone Nightjar, in the top center of the Seasonic X-Series Fanless and in the lower right corner of the Golden Silent Fanless from Super Flower!
Power supplies vary in efficiency, which ranges from 80 PLUS Platinum for Super Flower to 80 PLUS Gold for Seasonic and 80 PLUS Silver at Silverstone, as well as in terms of equipment. Seasonic chose a fully modular cable connection system, and a partially modular connection system allowed Super Flower to offer up to four PCI slots Express. The Silverstone power supply, as in the case of Seasonic, provides “only” two connectors PCI Express, but at 500W it's quite reasonable. Unfortunately, Silverstone does not support modular cabling.
The following specification table also clearly shows how much the tested power supplies differ.
| Manufacturer and model |
Seasonic X-460FL Fanless 460W |
SilverStone NightJar 500W |
Super Flower Golden Silent Fanless 500W |
|---|---|---|---|
| Model number | SS-460FL | SST-ST50NF | SF-500P14FG |
| Retail price in Europe | about 125 euros | about 150 euros | about 130 euros |
| Retail price in Russia | about 6,600 rub. | ||
| Products webpage | Official page Seasonic X-460FL Fanless | Official page SilverStone NightJar 500W | Official page Super Flower Golden Silent Fanless 500W |
| Power | |||
| +3.3 V | 20 A | 18 A | 20 A |
| +5 V | 20 A | 18 A | 20 A |
| +12 V | 38 A | 38 A | 41.5 A |
| +5Vsb | 2.5 A | 2.5 A | 2.5 A |
| -12 V | 0.5 A | 0.5 A | 0.5 A |
| Power 12V | 456 W | 456 W | 498 W |
| Power 3.3V and 5V | 100 W | 120 W | 100 W |
| general power | 460 W | 500 W | 500 W |
| Connections | |||
| ATX | 24(20+4)-cont. | 24(20+4)-cont. | 24(20+4)-cont. |
| EPS/12V/CPU | 1x 8(4+4)-cont. | 1x 8(4+4)-cont. | 1x 8(4+4)-cont. |
| PCI-Express (6P / 8(6+2)P / 8P) |
0 / 2 / 0 | 1 / 1 / 0 | 0 / 4 / 0 |
| SATA | 5 | 6 | 6 |
| 4-pin Molex | 5 | 6 | 5 |
| Drive | 2 (adapter) | 2 | 1 |
| Functions | |||
| Efficiency | |||
Let's start with the obvious - with power. Remember that the purchased power supply must have at least 25% power reserve from the peak power in the assembled system (it is not difficult to calculate it - there are many online calculators on the Internet). Taking into account the future upgrade, it is worth setting aside up to 50% of the reserve - this will not only allow you to seriously increase energy consumption in the future, but will also reduce the load on the power supply, ensuring it operates in the most optimal part of the efficiency curve.
The efficiency of switching power supplies is nonlinear - at low load and at maximum it is lower than at average (around 50-60%). However, the efficiency that is most important to us is precisely at maximum load, especially when it comes to systems with high power consumption. If you are assembling a simple PC with a 250-watt power supply, then its efficiency will not be decisive - even a cheap “Chinese” one will heat up slightly. But at powers above 500 W, a difference of a few percent in efficiency will already make a serious difference in heating, and this directly affects not only the noise of the power supply, but also its resource, especially when the radiators and fan impeller have already collected dust.
We recommend that you only consider purchasing power supplies with 80 Plus certification, indicating that the efficiency of the power supply is above 80% (this not only promises low heating, but also directly indicates the quality of the components). There are several certification options, we present them in order of increasing efficiency: Bronze->Silver->Gold->Platinum->Titanium. And, if at powers within 500 W the 80 Plus Bronze unit will be a completely balanced choice, then in the kilowatt region it is already worth looking at “platinum”, or even “titanium”.
In the list of characteristics you need to pay attention to one more point. It's about O presence of PFC- physically, the work of this system is to minimize the phase shift that is inevitable in networks alternating current due to the presence of high-capacity capacitors at the input of the power supply. If a power supply without PFC has a power factor of about 70%, then active PFCs can bring it to almost an ideal unity - and with a kilowatt load this provides no less than a savings of up to 300 watts of power consumption. But do not forget that not every PFC circuit can “make friends” with uninterruptible power supplies - since in cheap UPSs the voltage shape is far from an ideal sinusoid, the PFC literally “goes crazy”, refusing to work.
Many years ago I could easily sleep half a meter from a humming computer, but over time it became obvious that extraneous noise they interfere a lot productive work. Since then, I began my experiments in assembling a silent computer.
Some obvious facts
Sources of noise in a computer are:1) fans of the power supply, processor radiator, video card at a minimum. At the most, there can be additional fans for blowing and blowing air into HDDs and other devices;
2) hard drives;
3) vibration of housing elements due to mechanical work fans and hard drives;
4) paranoids can add to this list a high-frequency squeak of various components - computer power supplies and peripherals, motherboard, etc.
How I conquered the noise
To eliminate all the listed sources of noise in my computer, I did the following:
Fans
Everything is simple here - passive air or water cooling. I chose the first option.For CPU- these are radiators that effectively remove heat from companies such as Scythe, Nofan, Noctua and others, there are many of them. One of the characteristics of a heatsink is the power dissipation of the processor, so you can easily choose the option that suits your processor. Often the disadvantage of such radiators is their big size, which may cause problems with overlap of the near pci-e slot. The second feature is that, as a rule, processors from Intel are cooler than processors from AMD, which somewhat limits the choice. Overclocking also greatly affects heat dissipation, unfortunately.
Such radiators usually look something like this: 
Or like this (this is exactly what I have): 
Video card- the built-in video is quite sufficient for my tasks, so the problem with the video card turned out to be the simplest for me. If you need a powerful, silent video card, then there are two options - a moderately powerful video card with passive cooling, for example ASUS HD7750-DCSL-1GD5, or a more powerful card with a water block.
power unit. Previously, I simply solved the problem of power supply noise - I turned off the fan. 2 broken power supplies with an interval of a year and a half each forced us to reconsider our approach to the problem. In the end I bought a PSU with passive cooling Nofan P-400A Silent 400W Fanless Power Supply Unit. It looks like this: 
There is also a completely passive version Chieftec GPS-500C 500W ATX. In addition, there are many power supply options with thermal sensors that automatically change the fan speed, with a remote panel with manual fan speed control, and options with semi-passive cooling, when the fan starts working only at a certain load level.
If options with a passive power supply do not suit you (most likely for financial reasons due to their high cost), you can reduce the noise by replacing the fan with a less noisy one. Very quiet fans are produced by the same companies - Scythe, Noctua, Acousti, Nanoxia. Disadvantages of such fans may be higher price and poor flow.
In addition, the fan can be connected not to the power supply, but to the motherboard, which will allow you to control its speed. The only problem is most likely voiding the warranty.
Hard drives produce noise and vibration, which in turn makes the case noisy. A radical solution is to replace all HDDs with SSDs. It will be silent, energy efficient, vibration resistant, but too expensive. I solved this problem this way: an SSD for the system and 2 2.5-inch HDDs of the green series 5400 RPM in special vibration- and sound-insulating boxes. They are called HDD silencer or silent box. The operating principle is simple - a steel box in which the HDD is placed, and gaskets on the top and bottom for vibration damping, sound insulation and heat dissipation. In such silent boxes the hard drive is not audible at all. By at least 2.5 inches exactly. As usual, the price is sad - about 100 euros for 3.5 inch disks and 1100 rubles for 2.5 inch disks. But the thing, in my opinion, is definitely worth the money.
It looks like this: 
Frame
I used to think that good body for a silent computer, this is a case that does not release any noise from inside the system unit. Subsequently it turned out that this is not entirely true. The housing must eliminate vibrations and take into account small nuances:
1) location of the power supply unit, which does not interfere with natural air circulation. Typically, this is at the bottom near the rear panel with a direct connection to the power supply. There are also options for placing the power supply on top in the area where conventional cases have drives with indirect connection of the power cable (for example, Nanoxia has such cases);
2) the presence of holes in the upper part of the body during passive air cooled and holes for hoses for water;
3) more durable design that eliminates any vibrations;
4) often in such cases hard drives are mounted in special vibration-damping baskets.
Such cases are in the line of Antec, Nanoxia, Fractal Design, Cooler Master, Silver Stone and from many other manufacturers
Personally, I have the good old Antec Mini P180 mATX form factor. The case suits absolutely everyone, but not without its jambs - the lower location of the power supply does not allow you to reach the connector without an extension cord additional food on the motherboard, and hard drive cages do not work well with the installation of silent boxes in them.
The second disadvantage of the lower location of the power supply is that the case is oriented towards a power supply with active cooling, because the partition between the power supply compartment and the compartment with PC components prevents effective heat dissipation.
It looks like this: 
High frequency squeak/component noise
This unpleasant squeak is usually characteristic of cheap components and power supply peripherals. My knowledge does not allow me to say anything about either the reasons or ways to combat such negative aspects. Actively discussed on forums various options collective farm with filling something with a special varnish, replacing parts and other things. I can only give one piece of advice - as a rule, components of products from the lower price category squeak and crackle.
Personal impressions
I think that a silent computer is great when you determine that the computer is turned on not by the noise it makes, but by the lights on. Not everything is so rosy, of course. I need a computer for standard office programs, I use heavy applications with constant 100% CPU load very rarely and for short periods of time. Another problem for many is weak video. Someone needs it. The built-in video is enough for me and the other heroes.
An important aspect in the matter of a silent computer is the issue of price. necessary components. In general terms, a suitable case costs 5-8 thousand rubles, a radiator for a processor costs 1.5-4 thousand rubles, silent boxes for HDDs cost 1-3 thousand rubles. per piece, power supply - 4-6 rubles, fan - 500-800 rubles, there are restrictions in the choice and use of processors and video cards, but for me personally they are all insignificant compared to the fact that my computer is not noisy at all.
Finally, a photo of my system unit and screenshots with sensor indicators
Everything is simple here - unnecessary rear and top fans with speed controllers have been removed from the case, the radiator is Nofan CR-95C Pearl Black IcePipe 95W Fanless CPU Cooler, TDP of the processor is 77 W, the top basket has been removed as unnecessary, in the middle there are 2 2.5 inch HDD in silent boxes, all wires in the lower basket, built-in video card, one slot in use sound card, All.
But the indicators of the sensors at normal use computer and at 100% processor load
Office tasks, surfing
100% CPU load
This is my first post. I hope it’s not completely terrible and will be of interest to someone. Thank you for your attention.
UPDATE1: in the comments they suggested writing the prices of the equipment I use, I’m correcting myself. I have:
radiator CR-95C Pearl Black IcePipe 95W Fanless CPU Cooler (4000 RUR) + shipping from England
PSU Nofan P-400A Silent 400W Fanless PSU (5500) + shipping from England
Antec mini P180 case (not on sale for a long time, about 5 years ago I bought it for about 7000, if I don’t confuse anything). Case without power supply
processor - Intel i7-3770
UPDATE2: in the comments it was suggested to create a table of silent or quiet components, I alone, most likely, will not be able to handle it in time, but if someone agrees to help. then I think everything will work out, so I will be glad if someone responds