If the mouse (keyboard) cord comes off the board or you need to replace the plug, use the tips and background information from this article.

The cord is torn from the board

To solder a cord torn off from a mouse or keyboard, you need to determine the purpose of the soldering points on the board and know color coding wires Often the purpose of the cord wires is written directly on the board, in the place where the wires were soldered. And the wires usually have standard markings, which will be discussed below. When encountering non-standard colors, follow the information from the relevant articles:

USB devices

In the case of USB devices, the letter designations will be: V, D-, D+, G (not necessarily in that order). There may be a point for soldering the cable braid - SG. Classic colors in USB cord are:

V - Red
D- - White
D+ - Green
G - Black
SG - Black thick (not insulated in cable)

Some models USB devices you can find markings characteristic of PS/2:

V - Red
D - White
C - Green
G - Black

If there is no information on your device in the article, you will have to call the cord yourself. The pin assignments of the USB plug are clearly defined (see figure↓), all that remains is to find out what color each pin rings with. The figure shows an example of defining the “G” wire. With only one of the four wires, the multimeter in ohmmeter mode will show about zero ohms. This is the desired wire. This study should be repeated with other contacts.

PS/2 devices

Classic wiring of PS/2 keyboards and mice:

V - Blue
D - Orange
C - White
G - Green

However, PS/2 keyboard cords often come in the same color scheme as USB devices:

V - Red
D - White
C - Green
G - Black

The colors in the PS/2 device cord may not match the standard. In this case, refer to the article "".

Actions in the absence of markings

If there are no inscriptions on the board, we study the tracks on printed circuit board, coming from the places where the cord is soldered. This study should be guided by the following features:

The longest and widest path is usually “G”. All electrolytic capacitors are soldered to this track with their negative contact. The negative contact is marked on the capacitor body with a longitudinal strip.

Marking the polarity of electrolytic capacitors and LEDs will tell us the positive track - “V”. It is usually shorter and thinner than "G". If there are “electrolytes” on it, then they are soldered to it with positive contacts.

The keyboard LEDs are soldered with positive contacts onto the positive track.

The two shortest and virtually identical tracks on the board are D- and D+ (D and C in the case of PS/2 devices). Without further ado, they go to the controller chip. Which of them is which is determined experimentally. With regard to these contacts, experiments are safe.

The plug is torn from the cord

If the colors in the cord are standard, then from the pictures below you will understand which wire to solder to which pin of the connector.

In the case of non-standard colors, please refer to the articles:

Or determine the purpose of each wire yourself by the markings on the board or by the tracks, as shown above.

Discussion: 11 comments

My wire broke right next to usb plug, what plug can I buy for usb 2.0? Give me a link to know approximately.

Answer

1. Almost useless article. I have 3 different mice from very well-known brands: Microsoft, Logitech and Genius. All cables have 5 wires, four of which are the same color: there are red, green, white, black, but the wiring order is different for all mice (brands). The fifth wire is different for everyone.
   The tracks on the mouse boards are not visible - the elements are very densely located. There are no letter markings, there are two digital designations near the plug on the board: one edge is marked with the number 1, the other with 5 (there is not a word about this in the article).

   Answer

   1. No article can be useful to everyone. It is obvious. If the board is unreadable, only the wiring diagram can save you, but where can you get it?
      Alas, the digital designations do not provide information about the purpose of the contacts. This is not to say that, for example, No. 1 is always “V”. For this reason, the article does not say anything about numbers.
      I wonder what color options the 5th wire has? So far, as the 5th conductor, I have only encountered a braid in black heat shrink.

There are often situations when, after connecting a computer or laptop to the Internet using a network cable, the error “Network cable is not connected” appears. This is most likely not even an error, but simply the status of the network adapter, which can be observed in network connections.

It turns out that the computer does not respond to the connection in any way, network cable not connected, although it is connected to the computer and inserted into the network card connector. Icon on the notification panel with a red cross. Well, the Internet, of course, doesn’t work. This is what it looks like:

And most importantly, the cable is connected. From a router, modem, or directly from the provider’s equipment. This error can appear on both a PC and a laptop. It also doesn't matter which Windows is installed on your computer. Only in Windows 10 will the message “Network cable not connected” appear next to the “Ethernet” adapter, and in Windows 7 – next to “Connect via local network". And in Windows XP, a pop-up window with this error still appears if you hover your mouse over the connection icon. This also often happens.

The same goes for the connection method. Some people have a network cable coming directly from their provider (for example, Rostelecom), and for some via a modem, Wi-Fi router, or terminal.

What could be the problem?

There can be many reasons. We list the main ones:

• The network cable is incorrectly or not fully connected.
• The network cable is damaged. The contacts in the connector may have come loose (into which the network cable itself is crimped).
• Hardware problems with the router, modem, provider equipment. Or the network card itself in your laptop or PC has broken down.
• Problems with the network card settings. Most often, it cannot automatically determine the speed and duplex. I'll tell you about this in more detail.
• There are some problems with the network card driver.
• Viruses, firewalls, some programs. Yes, yes, they can also cause the “Network cable is not connected” error to appear.

How to find out the reason and what to do first?

• First, restart your computer, modem, router (if you have one).
• Disconnect the network cable and connect again. Also check the connection on the router (if the Internet is connected through it). Connect the cable to another LAN port. Pay attention to whether the LAN indicator on the router lights up after connecting the cable. You can see the instructions: .
• If possible, connect via a different cable.
• You can lightly move the network cable where it enters the connector. And at this moment look at the status of the network adapter on the computer. Perhaps the contacts are leaving there, and this way we can find out.
• If you have another PC or laptop, try connecting it. This way we can find out what's going on.
• If the Internet goes through a router, then try connecting the cable from the provider directly to the computer.

I would divide the solutions into software and hardware.

The network cable is not connected, although it is connected: solutions to the problem

1 I would try removing the network card from Device Manager. After a reboot it should recover automatically. Go to Device Manager (the easiest way to find it is through a search, or press the Win + R key combination and run the command devmgmt.msc).

By opening the tab " network adapters"find the network card. Depending on the manufacturer and driver, the name may be different. The name may contain "LAN". For example, on my laptop it is "Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller". By the way, pay attention to whether there is a yellow icon. Click on it right click mouse and select "Remove device".

We confirm the deletion and restart the computer. Perhaps after a reboot everything will work and the computer will see the connected network cable.

2 Check the speed and duplex detection settings. In Device Manager, right-click on the network card (as I showed above) and select "Properties".

Next, go to the “Advanced” tab. In the list, find and select "Spread&Duplex". And in the drop-down menu on the left, set the value to "Auto Negotiation". But if you initially had it installed there this option, then try setting a different value. For example: "100 Mbps Full Duplex". You can also try different variants. Don't forget to click Ok and restart your computer.

It just often happens that the network card cannot automatically detect speed and duplex.

3 Network card driver. You need to try reinstalling it. Download the driver from the website of the manufacturer of the card itself (LAN), laptop, or motherboard your computer and start the installation. You can look at the article on this topic:.

Other reasons why the computer does not respond to the connection of the network cable

1 Network card failure. However, in this case, you most likely will not see it in the device manager. But it happens in different ways. To find out, you need to connect another cable to it. Connect to another router or provider. Or connect other devices to the same cable. 2 Problems with the provider. For example: an employee of the provider was connecting the Internet to another subscriber, and accidentally disconnected your cable from the equipment, or the cable was broken somewhere in the entrance. Or maybe someone cut it on purpose. In such cases, the message “Network cable is not connected” will appear. You need to contact your provider's support. Just before doing this, it would be good to make sure that the problem is not network card your computer. It also often happens that the contacts on the connector into which the network cable from the provider is crimped are lost. You just need to do it again and correctly. Or call the experts. 3 Problem with the router. May be. But checking all this is very simple. Disconnect the Internet from the router (only if you don't have ADSL), and connect it directly to your computer. If the computer sees the network cable, then the problem is either in the router or in the cable with which you connect the PC to the router. You can also look at the article: . 4 The network cable is faulty. And this can happen. But, if we have a cable that we connect the computer to the router, then it is easy to check by connecting it to another device, or by connecting the cable from the provider directly to the computer’s network card.

We all know that if you touch a bare live wire, it is fraught with the most dire consequences, even several hours after the incident. Therefore, you should be wary of such wires. But what to do if it is in your apartment or house?

After all, bypassing it is not an option, and this malfunction needs to be fixed. This is exactly what we will talk about in our article.

There may be several options for your encounter with exposed wires:

• Firstly, you may find exposed wires in your home or apartment in a place you've never looked at.
• Secondly, wires without insulation may result from short circuit in the wiring. Well, and, in the latter, you can damage the wire yourself during construction work or due to negligence.

This option is most often found when buying a house or apartment. When, during a more thorough examination, you discover such unpleasant moments. But don’t panic, if you follow our instructions, we will solve this problem in just a few minutes.

So:

• First of all, if you find exposed wires, do not turn on the lights or turn on any electrical appliances. This may result in voltage being applied to the damaged area and causing a short circuit.
• Take a voltage tester and check that there is no voltage on the damaged wiring. If voltage is present, this means that the wiring is not damaged, but that the insulation has crumbled due to aging or overheating.
• If there is no voltage, this does not mean that the wiring is damaged. Maybe there's just a switch somewhere that's turned off. In any case, we relieve the tension from this area by turning off the corresponding group machines, and if it is impossible to accurately determine whether the group belongs, then the input machine at home.

Note! In any case, after a long period of non-use of the voltage indicator, it should be checked. This is done by touching live parts that are known to be energized. Only after such a check can you be sure of the reliability of its work.

• After removing the tension, we once again make sure that it is absent in the damaged area. Only after this, using electrical tape or heat shrink, we insulate the wires. Moreover, we do this in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of water getting under the insulation in the event of flooding of the room.
• If we had voltage on the wires, then we isolate them without changing their location or connecting them to each other. We do the same if there is no voltage, but there are no obvious signs of a short circuit in the exposed area.
• If there is no voltage and obvious traces of a short circuit are visible on the bare area, then we insulate each wire separately. Our instructions for troubleshooting wiring faults will help you further investigate this area.
• After applying high-quality insulation, voltage can be supplied. At the same time, make sure that there are no sparks at the damage site, extraneous noise and other sound or light effects to indicate damage.

Damage to the wire after a short circuit

A short circuit in the wiring (see) can occur due to flooding, heating, improper installation, aging insulation and many other factors. Clear signs of this phenomenon can be considered sparking in the wiring and shutdown of the group circuit breaker in this area. As a result, wires without insulation may form, which urgently need to be insulated.

So:

• If you witness a short circuit in your apartment or house, do not rush to inspect the damage site. First of all, make sure that there is no voltage at this electrical point. If the shutdown does not occur, automatically perform it manually using a group or input machine.

Briefly: Accuracy is the sister of talent.

Official Lightning cables fray and break - they break. We recommend that you accept it. But with desire and patience, extend the life of each. Use editorial experience website, which was multiplied by Internet opinion.

1. Scotch tape, electrical tape, etc.

To protect the wire more, instead of having two areas of potential wear, wrap the cable from end to end. And as a replacement for adhesive tape or electrical tape, use thread and other similar materials.

2. Heat shrink tube will help

To make the first method aesthetically pleasing, use heat shrink tubing. Such devices are sold in a number of sizes in hardware stores. The price is minimal - a couple of tens of rubles per set.

Place the heat shrink tube over the potential break on top. And heat with a lighter, hair dryer or iron. The polymer will shrink in size and wrap around the cable. Pick up the phone white to increase aesthetics.

3. Ballpoint pen spring and more

The official Apple Lightning cable looks aesthetically pleasing with a silver metal spring made of ballpoint pen. But not every one will do. I advise you to visit a stationery store and take apart a couple of things to look for them.

Sugru is recommended as a replacement for this method on forms. It's like plasticine for fixing things around. Use it to seal potential cable breaks. And after drying, the substance will turn into a polymer a la rubber.

4. Careful use/carrying

Editorial members website enjoy Apple devices for years. And they agree on one opinion - to prevent Lightning cables from breaking for months, carefully use and carry each one in your pocket, bag, and so on.

5. Using Apple Substitutes

IN personal use We've visited Lightning cables from third-party MFi manufacturers. I tried the “noodle” type and similar official ones in leather, fabric and metal. They didn’t wear out, but they stopped working after 5-9 months for no apparent reason.

On the forums they recommend buying a microUSB (female) to Lightning (male) adapter. And use it together with a thicker microUSB cable. This wire is cheaper and breaks less often. We haven't tried it, but we believe it.

Braided cord is the strongest line for fishing, but it has a big drawback - it gets very tangled in the hands of novice anglers when casting. This article contains a lot useful tips for beginners, using which you will protect yourself from all kinds of beards, unnecessary knots, loops and braid tangles.

1. Braid quality

Cheap braid is a priori very prone to tangling, easily twists, and often gets dirty, hence the knots. Buy braided fishing line only from leading manufacturers.

2. Poor quality coil

Yes, it is the coils that are most often the main problem when creating loops on your braid. If the reel, when winding the fishing line, creates uneven turns on the spool, this is a direct reason for another beard to form during casting. All turns should be laid diagonally, but there is one more point that also concerns your coil.

3. Reverse cone spool

The braid is wound on the spool with a reverse cone

A cone-shaped spool will greatly help you fish with braid. The wide part of the coil is top part, narrow - lower (the so-called spool with a reverse cone). This way, when casting, the line will not fly off the spool in whole turns. This is a very important aspect. If your reel does not initially have a cone-shaped spool, simply wind it with electrical tape or tape, widening the front part and gradually reducing the extension to “no” towards the bottom.

How to increase your fish catch?

Over 7 years of active fishing, I have found dozens of ways to improve the bite. Here are the most effective ones:

1. Bite activator. This pheromone additive attracts fish most strongly in cold and warm water. Discussion of the bite activator “Hungry Fish”.
2. Promotion gear sensitivity. Read the appropriate manuals for your specific type of gear.
3. Lures based pheromones.

4. Don't wrap too much line around the braid.

If you wind the braid to the very edges of the spool, it will also fly off too often. Leave 2 mm to the edge so that the braided cord does not have the opportunity, due to inertia, to fly off in whole rings at a time when it is not required.

5. The first cast when fishing is very important

Braided cord behaves much worse when dry than when wet. Therefore, the first cast is advisable:

• do it smoothly
• use a heavy load
• cast with the wind, not against the wind

6. Fishing in the wind using braided line

The main problem when fishing with braided line is frequent beards and knots when fishing in the wind. The beard is created at the moment when you throw a not very heavy bait into the wind, making a very strong swing. The cord quickly begins to come off the spool. But at some point the bait slows down under the influence of the wind, but the line does not have time to slow down and continues to fly off the spool. At this moment the beard forms.

Adviсe:

1. When fishing in windy weather, use heavier baits
2. Fish with the wind, not against the wind (this is not always possible, we understand, but if possible, keep in mind, it will be much easier for you. In the end, you can move the boat, or go to the other side of the reservoir, if such a possibility exists.
3. Cast smoothly, this way you will not give too much inertia to your bait and the line will not fly off in excessive quantities.

7. Do not leave knots in the braids on the spool

It happens that a small nodule or loop still appears, but they are not very big size and they are easy to wind on the spool. You shouldn't do this. During casting, there is a very high probability that the fishing line will touch this loop, therefore the range of your casts will noticeably decrease and the braided cord may also become tangled.

- we do right choice at the time of buying.

Correct equipment for a spinning reel and rod.

— we buy only what is really needed during trolling fishing.