The plug is coming off the headphones. Most common color

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This video shows how to repair a headphone plug. To do this, we need a broken headset with headphones, a four-pin plug, a soldering iron with accessories, hot melt glue, and heat shrink.
First of all, we need to understand the plug circuit. IN in this case we will be redesigning the samsung headphone headset. The layout may differ on other headsets. The photo shows the microphone plus in black. Yellow the overall minus is shown. The red and green wires indicate the left and right channels, respectively. It is important not to confuse the channels, as this is very critical for repairs.

Plug pinout

First of all, we need to cut off the old plug and tin the wires. First we solder the minus. Next we connect the right and left channels. Finally, we solder the plus to the microphone. Finally, we put on the heat shrink.

Second video tutorial on plug repair with explanations

Resuscitation of headphones with broken wires near the plug. This problem has a global nature, since most people use headphones, naturally they often break. One of the most common headphone breakdowns is a fracture or break in the plug area; this presentation shows how you can restore your dear headphones if the plug breaks.

To repair the plug we will need: a soldering iron and all accessories (solder, rosin, etc.); stationery knife (you can use another, sharp one); heat shrink tube (hereinafter referred to as heat shrink), I advise you to take it with a margin in width.

We cut the wires to length, tin them and solder them. First you need to cut the insulation of the torn plug with a utility knife. Then remove the plug from the insulating housing. We strip the headphone wires and put on a piece of heat shrink. Approximately 1.5 centimeters. We examine it carefully.

Turn on the soldering iron. How to find out which one when repairing, where to solder the contacts? Typically, headphone manufacturers mark them with different colors. The contact wire to the housing is usually colorless. The right earphone wire is usually red. The left earphone wire is marked with green or blue colors.

We cut the wires to length, tin them and solder them. We soldered it, inspected it, if everything is satisfactory, we continue work. We check for functionality. If everything works, we continue. We put on heat shrink. We take a lighter and burn the heat shrink with short intermittent movements. Be careful not to burn the wires while repairing the plug from your headphones.

Hi all! Probably everyone has encountered this problem: you bought yourself headphones... You were happy listening to your favorite music through them. And then bam! And one earphone channel stopped working. It's a shame. But let’s not sniffle and run to the store for others. After all, we are Radio Amateurs (yes, yes, exactly with capital letters), people are proud, and we cannot afford this. So let's get started. These are the collapsible 3.5 mm “mini jack” plugs that are now available for sale. Of course, their quality is Lately, leaves much to be desired. And recently, a friend gave me headphones (cheap, Chinese) to repair. I didn’t have to see the plug, so I’ll have to take the collapsible one mentioned above.

First, let's cut/bite off some wire:

Afterwards we remove a little insulation so that the wires can be seen:

Carefully burn the varnish insulation of all 3 wires (about half).

Then we clean it up with a knife or scissors. Unfortunately, I was not able to photograph this, but the essence is simple and clear - we apply the wires to the finger and with gentle movements we clean the wires from the burnt varnish.

Now we dip the stripped wire into flux (if any), you can do without it, the wires are tinned faster with it (with rosin it takes longer).

We make sure that a drop of solder hangs on the soldering iron, and in it, so to speak, we warm up the wire until it becomes tinned. Here are the already tinned wires:

Now, you need to pass the wire through the plug body. As it often happens, I soldered everything, but forgot the case - and I have to solder everything back ( yes, this happened 10 times - approx. editorial staff). Now we solder: the wire without color (transparent) insulation (varnish), i.e. minus (common), solder in the middle:

After, we solder the other two wires - two pluses, blue or red, or red and green, to the side contacts:

Now we crimp the wire with two petals:

We screw the plug housing into place, and you're done - we repaired the headphones ourselves!

P.S. . A little life hack: if you want to prevent the spring from getting inside the body, with a little effort, slightly pull it out and turn it a little counterclockwise, since it goes further in width, it will get stuck there. And now the spring does not run back and forth.

Almost any plug can be repaired this way - microphone, headset, other audio equipment, and so on. Thank you for your attention! Author - Admin4638.

Additions to the article:

If possible, it is better to use an existing connector, if it has survived, or a similar one from more or less expensive (but already dead, otherwise why bother with this?) headphones. Because From experience, new connectors are found to be of extremely poor quality. The contacts there are crimped and very loosely.
Because it is used old connector it needs to be cleaned of insulation (I cut it with a utility knife along the seam formed by the mold), soldered to the soldering points (usually everything is there except the mass; the mass will have to be slightly cleaned and tinned). while not forgetting about heat shrinkage on the center (L) and middle (P).
By the way, if there are veins in a non-flammable polymer, as in the example, then when stripping with a knife, the wires are damaged, and if it is also oxygen-free copper, then they break immediately, therefore you just need to solder by tinning such an end without stripping it in a drop of tin. When heated, the polymer will partially expose the cable to a length sufficient for soldering (about 2 mm).
For beauty, uniformity and waterproofing, before shrinking the top layer of heat shrink, you can pour hot glue under it; when shrinking, excess glue will come out - you can either remove it immediately toilet paper(a universal cleaner of any surface from almost any contaminant) or cut off when hardened. The second or third time you'll get masterpieces :)

P.S. At one time, KOSS earbuds with a gold-plated jack served as connector donors - it is compact, beautiful and of high quality. But listening to these speakers at maximum simply broke down the speakers, by the way, a valuable source of neodymium magnets - washers. Thank you for your attention. Ringo aka Pavel K.

Has it often happened to you that one ear of an earphone stops working? Repairing headphones requires minimal skill, but at the same time allows you to greatly extend the life of your favorite headphones. In the laboratory, we compiled detailed guide repair for you.

My headphones don't last longer than a month, so I buy cheap ones. - They work for you for no more than a month because you buy cheap headphones.

Headphones fail in 90% of cases due to broken conductors in the wire. Depending on the quality of the wire and its design, the service life before this misfortune varies. If the Chinese simply used two insulated copper wires as conductors, then this will happen in less than a month. If the conductors are wound on a synthetic cord, the wire can last for years. Breakage occurs due to metal fatigue at small bending radii. If you take a paper clip and bend it in one place several times, it breaks, and the same happens with the copper wire strands. To combat this, they try to increase the bending radius of the wire - the plastic spring at the connectors is made just for this.

Here is an example of a broken conductor in a wire, the conductors are removed from the insulation:

Or this. Greens - sebum penetrated through the insulation and oxidized copper:

Repair begins with finding the location of the problem. If one of the headphones does not work, then there is a break in the wire of the left or right channel. If there is a break in common vein, then only music can be heard in the headphones, and vocals are practically inaudible; the difference signal between the left and right channels begins to play in the headphones.

To diagnose broken conductors in a wire, use this technique - fix the connector and make circular movements with the wire during operation. If you hear rustling noises, crackling noises or interruptions in operation, this means that the fault is located in this place. From experience, it most often occurs at the headphone jack, but with headphones with a 50/50 rim there is a break at the jack or at the earpiece.

The break point is shown with a red arrow. Once the location of the break has been identified, we begin repairs. You can, of course, replace the connector and install a collapsible plug, but unfortunately the collapsible plugs are quite large and their quality is often poor (in Yekaterinburg we could not buy plugs of acceptable quality. Even the all-metal ones with a gold-plated body suffered from misalignment of the contact cylinders, weak contact of the cylinders with the lamellas) Therefore, disassembly non-separable connector and the use of its components seems appropriate.

Fortunately for us, in the vast majority of cases, the plug for headphones consists of two parts, a plastic filler for the connector and a rubber cap. Removing the cap:

We bite through the plastic filling of the contact part:

We clean the wire. It is advisable to use a heated object so as not to leave scratches on the wires, which will cause a break. Don't forget to leave the cap on the wire:

This is where the subtlety lies. The cores are covered with polyimide insulation, which does not melt from the soldering iron tip. Cleaning with a sharp object is a filigree job, and there is a high risk of missing the end of the conductors. In this case, there are two ways to proceed. You can burn the insulation with a lighter, then clean up the fumes and tin. The disadvantage of this method is that the veins oxidize due to combustion and it becomes difficult to tin them. The second method is more elegant - the insulation is burned chemically.

We take an aspirin tablet (acetylsalicylic acid) and with a heated soldering iron tip (350+ degrees Celsius) press the insulated conductor to the tablet, pulling it out. The acid destroys the insulation and acts as a flux. DO NOT INHALE VAPOR! WORK UNDER A HOOD!

Result:

We clean off the remaining aspirin from the wires (it is advisable to thoroughly wash and dry, aspirin is an active flux and will continue to destroy the material if it is not removed), bite off the excess and solder it back to the connector:

We plug it into the player and check that everything works. After this, the plug must be fixed in the cap. To do this, we use fast-hardening epoxy glue:

We recommend poxipol because of its consistency. Epoxy glue “moment” also hardens in 10 minutes, and is also suitable, but it is more difficult to work with because it is more fluid. Mix the glue and fill the cavity of the cap with it, placing the plug there. Thus, we imitate the plastic filling that we bit into at the beginning. It fixes the conductors, protecting the delicate soldering area.

When the glue has set, but has not yet hardened to the state of stone, cut off all excess with a knife:

The renovation is complete! You can use it.

Sometimes it happens that there is a break in the wire directly next to the earphone, or the repair according to the instructions above did not help. In this case, read on.

The headphones are not considered to be dismountable, as if they were assembled with glue. Fortunately, many plastic glued cases can be disassembled by taking advantage of the fact that the adhesive seam is poorly deformed.

Let's clamp the headphones into a clamp or vice; the screw allows you to strictly dose the force, gradually increasing it:

At a certain moment, the part will come unstuck and open like a shell:

We open the earphone and get access to its contents. Using a multimeter, we test the headphone winding to prevent a break:

Winding breakage and membrane damage are some of the few things that cannot be repaired. If the winding is intact, then cut the cord and thread it into the earphone again. Most often, the wire is fixed in a knot; strip and tin the conductors in the same way as for soldering the plug.

You can glue the earphone back together with any glue, after degreasing the surfaces. Apply the glue carefully so that excess glue or its vapor does not damage the membrane.

Based on experience, after such a repair, the headphones work until the next breakdown for about the same amount of time as they worked after purchase. Considering the cost of high-quality headphones, repairs of this kind are advisable.

Headphones are an indispensable attribute Everyday life young modern man. This device allows you to enjoy your favorite music and listen to audiobooks anywhere and at any time. But unfortunately, this one is irreplaceable electronic gadget often breaks, and in such a situation you wonder how to fix the headphones. Many consumers, when they break down, throw out their old headphones and go for a new accessory. However, this is not at all necessary. We will tell you how to fix the device yourself, since you have nothing to lose anyway.

How do headphones break?

To understand how to fix headphones with your own hands, you first need to determine what exactly is broken. Let's highlight 4 main problems:

wire break near the plug;
wire break near the earphone;
membrane failure;
channel blockage.

How to fix headphones if the wire is broken?

Before moving on to solving the problem, identify the breakdown by the following signs: a rustling sound is observed in one of the headphones or both, followed by its disappearance. This means that the wire has broken at the bend.

In order to identify the location of the wire break in the cord, turn on the headphones in any device and walk your hand along the entire cord, while moving and rotating it. As soon as you hear a rustling sound, the breakdown location has been found.

Fixing such a breakdown is very simple:

Mark the break location with electrical tape, a marker, or whatever is convenient.
Disconnect the headphones from the device.
Use wire cutters to remove the broken wire.
Strip the edges of the wires and solder them together.
Check the sound.
If everything works, wrap the repair area with electrical tape.

Important! Since we carry a gadget either in a pocket, or in a bag, or in a backpack, breaks most often occur near the plug. The area near the jack becomes the most mobile and therefore more susceptible to various bending and wringing.

How to fix a headphone plug?

A plug break is one of the most common breakdowns, especially if it is not made very well. There are 2 types of plugs: 2.5" and 3.5", but both are susceptible to failure with equal success.

Mechanism design

To fix a headphone plug, first delve into the theory and study the structure of the plug, as well as the purpose of the wires that are in the cord.

Plug device:

Left channel.
Right channel.
General channel.

Important! In addition, the headphone cord also has 3 wires that are responsible for the corresponding channels.

Tools for work

You need to prepare for the repair process and purchase special tools, and in case of replacing the plug (jack) - new element. Required tools:

soldering iron and eternal companions: tin and rosin;
stationery knife;
vice;
glue;
lighter;
heat shrink cambric.

Repairing the plug

Cut the plug from the cable just above the fracture site.
Free the connector from excess plastic (alternatively, you can buy a new connector).
Strip the wire 2 cm.
Determine by trial and error the purpose of the wire (left, right, common): connect a pair of wires in one of the speakers until sound appears (change the wires in the pair).
Once you've found a sound pair, such as the right channel, the remaining wire goes to the left channel. Now determine which of the two wires in a pair is common. To do this, bring each of them one by one to the left channel, the one that will sound is the common one.
Solder the found wires to the corresponding channels. You need to do this as follows:
- tin the ends of the veins and channels;
- secure the plug in a vice;
- Solder the wires to the corresponding channels.
Needs to be improved appearance and protect the adhesions:
- glue the nylon thread that was in the wire to the plug - this will protect against the wire breaking from the plug;
- hide the soldering point and exposed wires using heat-shrinkable casing: cut the required length, put it on the soldering point and gently heat it over the fire of a lighter. If necessary and for greater protection (convenience), use several cambrics.
- Remove excess cambric length with a utility knife.

How to fix headphones if one doesn't work?

To fix headphones if one does not work, you need to determine the source of the problem. In order to visually identify this place, it is necessary to inspect the earphone.

For this:

Open the earphone.
Inspect the membrane: if it is wrinkled, correct and straighten it.
When the membrane is clogged, you can also hear cracking and rattling sounds, so remove any debris.
Wash the mesh that separates the earphone membrane from the outer space with alcohol.
Having identified the problem, decide for yourself the feasibility of repair: if the membrane is severely damaged, then you cannot repair it at home, and service costs the same as buying new headphones.

Important! Perhaps one earphone is not working due to a broken wire. For repairs, you also need to disassemble the earphone. Plastic latches or screws are used as fastening. Shell headphones use an adhesive connection. After opening the headphones, cut the wire, strip it and solder it in the same way as before the breakdown. Make sure the structure works properly and assemble the ear halves.

If the break occurs inside the cord, and you do not have a soldering iron, then connect the wires by simply twisting them in a spiral: take both wires and pinch them with your fingers, secure their ends and rotate together. This way you can repair your headphones with little effort.
Sometimes it is difficult to determine the location of a broken wire. We recommend solving this problem using a multimeter (it can be purchased at any electronics store). The device must operate in resistance mode. Using a utility knife, make 2 cuts around the intended break point at a distance of 2 cm, remove the plastic in the cut areas that cover them (it is better to do this with a lighter). Apply multimeter probes to the cut areas. If the device does not beep or “0” lights up on the display, then the location of the breakdown has been found.
To avoid wasting time on repairs, follow the rules for storing headphones. The easiest way is to store it in special cases or bags. Before hiding the “ears”, carefully wind them up without bending the wire or tightening it too much.
To ensure that the headphones not only do not break, but also do not get tangled, use the means at hand. For example, wind it on a spool of thread.

It is known that the breakage of the plug at the end of the wire is the most common malfunction of headphones.

Due to frequent kinks, strong jerks and other mechanical loads, thin wires break or tear. In this case, as a rule, one ear stops working or, as in my case, both at once.

Sometimes the common wire breaks, in which case the sound is distorted beyond recognition: high and mid frequencies almost completely disappear. This happens because the right and left amplifiers of the phone/player are turned on in antiphase and their output signals almost completely cancel each other out.

It also happens that the stereo effect simply disappears.

Often there is no sound in the ears, but the microphone works as if nothing had happened. However, if the microphone wire breaks, the control buttons on the headset cord stop working along with the microphone.

Most often, the cause of any described malfunction is a broken wire in the immediate vicinity of the plug.

Sometimes damage to the wire is visible to the naked eye, but most often it is hidden under the insulation.

How to fix headphones at home if the wire comes off the plug

Now I will tell you how to fix vacuum earbud headphones with your own hands if the wire has come off the plug.

I will show the repair process using the example of Monster Beats by dr Dre headphones, which I received along with my phone HTC Sensation XE. They served faithfully for almost 4 years until the plug finally broke.

The plug in these headphones is a regular mini-jack (3.5 mm) with four contacts - right ear, left ear, microphone and general. By the way, what’s interesting is that this headset has buttons so that you can rewind songs forward and backward, but there are no special contacts on the connector for them. All the buttons somehow miraculously use the same microphone contact.

In short, now I’ll try to repair these headphones at home, and if something goes wrong, screw it! - I'll go buy new ones. Moreover, the choice today is simply huge. And especially since I’m far from an audiophile and any kind will suit me, as long as they’re comfortable.

Initially, the headphones looked like this:

Headphones with a microphone and control buttons, so the plug has 4 contacts and 5 wires inside. The headset connector is, of course, non-separable.

As I already said, this method Repair is only suitable if the problem is in the connector - one earphone, right or left ear, microphone does not work, buttons are not pressed, the sound disappears if you move the wire at the plug, etc. and so on.

So, if you are firmly convinced that the headphone plug really needs to be replaced, move on.

How to fix headphones if one ear (or both) is not working

In order for us to get the highest quality and super-creative plug that no one else has, we will need:

Two .38 caliber shells. Suitable for Makarov pistol or similar. For example, I took brass sleeves for trauma (AKBS 9mm P.A.)
Drill with drill bits (3, 3.5, 7 and 9.5mm)
Hacksaw for metal
Epoxy adhesive
Syringe for 5 cubes
Small vise
Sandpaper
Soldering iron with a sharp tip (solder, flux and an aspirin tablet are welcome)
A small board, approximately 30x30 mm and about 20 mm thick

We will make an L-shaped plug, because... it is better than straight (more reliable and more compact). So, let's go.

Step 1

To begin with, we’ll make some small equipment to make it easier to work with the sleeves, so that you can safely clamp them in a vice without denting or scratching them. We take our piece of wood and drill a hole in it with a 9.5 mm drill, then make a cut with a hacksaw.

You should get something like this:

Step 2

Now we can process our sleeves without fear of spoiling their chic appearance:

Step 3

Since I had spent cartridges, there were dents on the primers from the firing pin. But we need everything to be beautiful, so we knock out both capsules using an awl, a hammer and straight hands:

Then we straighten one of them with light blows from the inside using something suitable (I took the shank from a broken drill of a suitable diameter).

To make it even more beautiful, you can sand it a little more with sandpaper:

Then we press the beautiful and even capsule into its original place:

If your cartridges are brand new, unfired, then knock out only the primer from one of them (you can throw it away immediately, it won’t be needed). We do not touch the second sleeve for now.

Step 4

Then we clamp the sleeve without primer in a vice and drill out the bottom from the inside with a 7 mm drill. You need to drill so as to make the bottom of the sleeve as thin as possible. Those. the drill should come almost close to the hole from under the capsule (I left about 0.5 mm of margin).

Then carefully cut off the bottom to make a puck like this:

Step 5

Now we take our sleeve with a primer and shorten it to 13 mm:

We carefully process the edges with sandpaper to obtain an even cut that is strictly perpendicular to the axis of the sleeve.

As a result, the two halves should fit perfectly into each other:

Step 6

Now is the time to deal with the old plug and wires.

To begin with, very carefully, using a sharp knife, unscrew the old connector to remove all excess and leave only the plug itself with four contacts and soldered wires:

We remember, or better yet write down, where which wire was soldered. My HTC headphones (with microphone) had the following pinout:

Step 7

We unsolder the old wires from the connector, strip the cable, tin the ends and shrink a piece of heat shrink (diameter 2.5 mm, length 21 mm).

To service wires in varnish insulation, it would be nice to take an aspirin tablet, but I didn’t have one, so I made do with regular rosin. If you work with aspirin, then know that the vapors of this nasty thing are terribly poisonous. You have been warned.

Step 8

Drill a hole of suitable diameter in the wall of the sleeve. In my case, a 3 mm hole turned out to be ideal:

Step 9

We thread the cable through the hole and solder the headphone and microphone wires (in strict accordance with the pinout!):

Step 10

Well, the last step: using a syringe, measure out 0.5 ml of hardener and 5 ml of epoxy resin. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly.

Then, to expel all air bubbles, heat the mixture in a water bath to 80 degrees.

We fill our sleeve with the resulting composition to the brim, put everything in its place and, with the help of ingenuity and improvised devices, fix it all for at least 12 hours (or better yet for a day):

Last step

When everything hardens, we take the structure out into the light of day and receive aesthetic pleasure from the work done.

What could be more enjoyable than fixing your broken phone headphones yourself?

Eh, if I also had headphones in the form of cartridges, it would be a fairy tale :)

If this is too difficult for you and you would like something simpler and faster, then we bring to your attention the restoration of a headphone plug using an old ballpoint pen and epoxy resin.

Well, now you know exactly what to do if the headphones in the jack break. And if your arms and legs grow from different places, then everything will work out much better, than me!