Stainless steel tank from an old washing machine. Washing machines with stainless steel tank - prices


If the reason for the breakdown of an automatic washing machine is the tank or a moving element located in the tank, this means that you will have to disassemble the machine to the ground. First you will have to remove the tank, while disassembling the body of the machine, and then disassemble the tank itself, and then put everything back together. This is quite labor-intensive work, so repairs need to be done once and conscientiously, so that you don’t have to disassemble the machine again later. To make your own repairs correctly from start to finish, read our article.

What breaks in the tank of the car?

The tank of an Indesit washing machine (or any other) is its main part, which contains the drum and other moving elements. It is in the tank that water is collected and, in fact, washing takes place in it, even though the laundry is in contact with the walls of the drum, not the tank. At first glance, it seems that the tank itself cannot break, because it is just a reservoir. The moving elements contained in it are another matter, but this is a common misconception. So, what can break in the tank of an automatic washing machine?

  • Bearings. This is a moving element located in the tank. The bearings themselves cost a penny, but changing them will require a lot of effort. In this case, there is a risk of seriously damaging the shaft, pin and other elements.
  • Shaft. It may become deformed if the bearings are not repaired.
  • Tank walls. They may bend under the influence of centrifugal force from contact with the drum if the shock absorbers and bearings are damaged. In the worst case, the walls may be damaged, which will break their tightness.
  • Tank drain hole. Of course, the hole itself cannot break. But a drain valve is installed on it, which can fail. In addition, the drain hole may become clogged and will have to be cleaned.

Note! If the bearing is not repaired in time, this can lead to complete destruction of the tank due to a loose drum. After this, the tank will definitely have to be changed!

Features of tank assembly and disassembly

The procedure for disassembling the tank of an automatic washing machine is similar in all cases. At least we will be dealing with a non-separable “version” of the tank, at least with a collapsible one. It is quite possible to disassemble the washing machine tank with your own hands, but you need to act extremely carefully. We specifically decided to describe the whole process using the example of a non-separable tank, since it is somewhat more difficult to handle.

At the first stage, we carefully inspect the tank body from all sides. Our task is to determine the location of the soldered seam, as well as to mark the places where we will drill holes for future fasteners. After this, take an electric drill, a thin 3 mm drill and drill 15-20 holes in a circle, as shown in the figure below.

Next is the crucial moment, we need to act as carefully as possible and cut the weld seam of the tank body into two halves with our own hands, using a hacksaw. This work will take a considerable amount of time, so be patient and move forward. This is how non-collapsible tanks turn into collapsible ones.

Important! When sawing the tank body, do not go too deep, a maximum of 5 centimeters, because the walls of the body are not thick. If the hacksaw blade slips deep, you risk damaging the drum walls.

After the tank can be cut, you should end up with two halves - the front part and the back part. The front part is a small irregularly shaped plastic ring, in the middle of which there is a hatch and a rubber cuff. In the rear half of the case there is the entire drum, along with the drive mechanism, which can now be removed.

We take the rear half of the tank and turn it over with the drum hatch down. Now we need to disassemble the shaft without damaging its main fastening element - the screw located in its middle. To unscrew it, you need to take a metal rod (a center punch works well), point it at the screw and hit the rod several times with a bronze or regular hammer. Next, take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the screw.

The next stage of disassembling the tank comes down to correctly removing the shaft from the rod. It's done like this. First we take a small wooden block and two large blocks. We place large bars under the edges of the tank so that it stands on them more or less stable. We take a hammer and a small block, point the block at the rod and hit it several times with the hammer. We strike like this: first a weak blow, then a little stronger, then a little stronger. After this, the drum should separate from the tank body.

Note! There is no need to hit the rod through the block with all your might. The rod looks reliable, but appearances are deceiving, so in order not to damage the part, measure the force of the impact, it is better to be safe.

The next stage involves removing the bearings from the tank body. If the bearings are in good condition and the problem is a deformed or leaking tank, you don’t have to touch them, since they do not interfere with repairs. But if the malfunction is related to bearings and seals, they need to be removed. We take our metal rod, point it at one of the edges of the bearing and give it a light blow with a hammer. We move the rod to the other edge of the bearing and strike again.
You cannot hit just one edge of the bearing, as it will become loose, and then you will have to drill it out with a step drill. We extract and . After replacing and repairing all faulty parts, we assemble the tank in the reverse order. In this case, we coat the edges of the sawn parts with sealant or cold welding and connect them, and pass bolts through pre-drilled holes and secure them with nuts. The size of the bolts will depend on what drill you used.

Troubleshooting

After successfully disassembling the tank, we begin repairs ourselves. We have already mentioned the process of replacing bearings, so we will go straight to repairing the tank body. We begin repairing damaged tank walls with an inspection and assessment of the nature of the damage. Much will depend on the material from which the tank is made. If it is plastic, then cracks may form on it through which water leaks.

Some home-grown artisans suggest soldering the crack and continuing to operate the tank. In our opinion (and experts agree with us), such a solder will not last long and then the machine will have to be repaired with a new one. It is better to purchase a new tank housing and replace it. A plastic tank body is cheaper than a metal one.

If the tank is made of stainless steel, and a “hole” has formed in it, it can be completely welded, and it will still serve for some time. In this case, we recommend delegating the welding work to an experienced welder, who should do everything quickly and accurately. After welding, paint over the weld seam with waterproof enamel - this will further extend the service life of the tank. In general, there are no other adequate ways to repair broken metal tanks - only welding or complete replacement of the unit. No sealant or cold welding will help in this case.

To repair bent metal tubs of a washing machine, it is necessary to carry out repairs in the following order.

  1. We take a regular hammer and a wooden block. If the dent is small and there are no holes in the tank, nothing else will be needed.
  2. Using a gas burner, we heat the dent, heating the outer wall of the tank.
  3. We place the block on the convexity of the tank, corresponding to the dent on the outside, and until the metal has cooled down, lightly hit it with a hammer. The dent should straighten out.
  • Visually inspect the drain hole, remove lint, hair, coked dirt and water stone. If you can't do this by hand, use sandpaper.
  • We check the rubber seal and the cuff of the drain valve of the washing machine tank. If the rubber has “stiffened” over time, become hard and cracked, you need to change both the cuff and the rubber seal.
  • We take a multimeter and check the contacts of the drain valve; if the resistance is 1, then the unit is faulty. The valve needs to be replaced with a new one.

Important! Be careful, before checking the valve with a multimeter, thoroughly clean its contacts, and only then take measurements.

In conclusion, we note that repairing the tank of an automatic washing machine is quite difficult. It is necessary to properly disassemble the machine, remove the tank, then disassemble the tank itself without errors, and only then begin repairs, and it is not a fact that this repair can even be carried out at home. Everything will depend on the type of breakdown.


If you are a savvy person, then you will never throw away old containers, especially since they are made of stainless steel. The old washing machine has not been working for a long time and takes up the required space. You look at a stainless steel tank from an old round washing machine and your thoughts give rise to many ideas for its use.

In life there are many examples of the use of this reliable steel element of an outdated structure.

Examples of using a tank on the farm

First you need to disassemble the body of the washing machine and remove the tank. To start using a stainless steel tank in your household, you need it to stand vertically. This means the tank needs legs.

Side view of the washing machine tank.

The legs for the tank can be welded to a separately designed support structure and the tank can be inserted into it. Just like in the photo.

Or you can make wooden legs of the structure from scrap materials. To do this, take three pieces of wooden plinth of the same length. These will be the supporting legs.

Then make two hoops from two pieces of perforated galvanized tape. Secure the perforated bands for the hoop with M4 bolts. Place the hoops on the tank and insert wooden legs spaced 120 degrees apart.

Secure the hoops and legs at the intersections with six self-tapping screws. The legs rest against the top side of the tank and provide it with a stable position even on uneven terrain.

The lid for the tank is from an old washing machine.

Tank for preparing soaked apples

To store liquid in the tank, you need to remove the holes there. Therefore, champagne corks are inserted into the holes for draining water and activator. There shouldn't be any leakage.

The Antonovka apple variety is simply irreplaceable for soaking.

Perhaps someone is interested in a recipe for making soaked apples.

Step-by-step recipe for pickled apples.

  • Wash the apples.
  • Scald the currant and cherry leaves.
  • Cover the bottom of the tank with these leaves.
  • Place apples in the tank.

The preparation of the filling is as follows:. For 10 liters of water you need to take from 100 to 300 g of sugar and 2 tablespoons of salt and mustard.

  • Boil water with sugar and cool. Sugar can be replaced with double the amount of honey, but there is no need to boil it.
  • Add salt and mustard, mix well.
  • Pour in the filling so that the fruits are completely covered.
  • Place the tank with apples and filling in a warm place at a temperature of 15 - 20 degrees for 5 - 7 days.
  • Then transfer the container to storage, where the temperature is maintained at 0 - 5 degrees.
  • If mold appears on the surface, it's okay. Once a month, mold should be carefully washed off.
  • After 35 - 40 days, the apples are ready to eat.


Bon appetit!

Washbasin from a washing machine tank photo

Do-it-yourself homemade product is simple and clear.

Grill - homemade DIY from a washing machine tank photo

How to make a barbecue from a washing machine tank video

Thus, do not rush to throw away old things. Your ingenuity will help them find new and useful uses.

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Freestanding washing machine ASKO W4086C.T.P

With protection against leaks. . Maximum spin speed 1600 rpm. Noise level when washing is 52 dB. Loading of laundry is frontal. With delayed start. Noise level during spinning: 77 dB. The maximum weight of dry laundry is 8.0 kg. Water consumption per wash is 55 liters. Electronically controlled. Washing class - A. Energy consumption class - A+++. Category - free-standing. With a special wool washing program. Color - silver (stainless steel). With child protection. With a program for washing delicate fabrics. Weight: 74 kg. Dimensions 85x60x58 cm.

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Fully built-in washing machine Smeg LST147-2

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CANDY DCS4 1051D1/2-07

With delayed start. Maximum spin speed 1000 rpm. The maximum weight of dry laundry is 5.0 kg. Washing class - A. Tank material - stainless steel. Category - free-standing. White color. Electronically controlled. Loading of laundry is frontal. Energy class - A+. With protection against leaks. Weight: 65 kg.

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Washing program for delicate fabrics. Delayed start. With a maximum spin speed of 1400 rpm. With a maximum dry laundry weight of 7.0 kg. Loading of laundry is frontal. Tank material - stainless steel. Electronic control. Energy class - A+. Category - embedded. With a noise level during washing of 56 dB. Anti-crease program. Child protection. Washing class - A. Color - white. With a noise level during spinning of 72 dB. Special wool washing program. With water consumption per wash of 47 liters. Leak protection. With depth: 56 cm. With width: 59 cm. With height: 82 cm. With weight: 82 kg.

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VestFrost VFWM 1250 SWL 139853

With delayed start. Electronically controlled. With child protection. Energy class - A+++. Washing class - A. Linen loading - frontal. Noise level during spinning: 78 dB. Tank material - stainless steel. Category - free-standing. Noise level when washing is 58 dB. With protection against leaks. With a program for washing children's clothes. Maximum spin speed 1200 rpm. With an economical program. The maximum weight of dry laundry is 7.0 kg. White color. With a special wool washing program. With a program for washing delicate fabrics. With width: 60 cm. With height: 85 cm. With depth: 53 cm. With weight: 68 kg.

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Freestanding washing machine ASKO W4086C.W/1

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CANDY GVS34 126TC2/2-07

Loading of laundry is frontal. Electronically controlled. Energy class - A. With washing program for delicate fabrics. White color. With delayed start. Tank material - stainless steel. Maximum weight of dry laundry is 6.0 kg. Water consumption per wash is 48 liters. Noise level when washing is 56 dB. Category - free-standing. Maximum spin speed 1200 rpm. Washing class - A. Noise level during spinning 77 dB. Weight: 61 kg. Dimensions 85x60x34 cm.

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Noise level during spinning: 70 dB. Loading of laundry is frontal. Energy class - A+. With a special wool washing program. Noise level when washing is 56 dB. Tank material - stainless steel. With delayed start. Maximum spin speed 1200 rpm. Electronically controlled. Washing class - A. Water consumption per wash is 52 liters. The maximum weight of dry laundry is 7.0 kg. White color. Category - embedded. With a program for washing delicate fabrics. With protection against leaks. With height: 82 cm. With width: 60 cm. With depth: 56 cm.

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Category - free-standing. Loading of laundry is frontal. Anti-crease program. Delayed start. With a maximum spin speed of 1600 rpm. Tank material - stainless steel. Washing class - A. Child protection. Economical program. With a maximum dry laundry weight of 8.0 kg. With a noise level during spinning of 75 dB. Electronic control. With a noise level during washing of 54 dB. White color. Energy class - A+++. With water consumption per wash of 55 liters. Special wool washing program. Washing program for delicate fabrics. Leak protection. With depth: 59 cm. With width: 60 cm. With height: 85 cm. With weight: 74 kg.

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Craftsmen have even gotten the hang of making various modifications of smokehouses based on a washing machine. The general principle is that sawdust is poured onto the bottom of the tank, which is heated from below.

A container for collecting fat is installed inside, with grates above it, and covered tightly with a lid. Each handmade product is a device for hot smoking meat, lard, fish, and poultry. The difference is in the method of heating the sawdust to produce smoke. Let's consider several options.

Gas burner to the rescue

The steel in the tank of an old washing machine is very durable and is not afraid of temperature changes. The only thing is to check that you do not own a machine with an aluminum container.

Aluminum is not suitable for a smokehouse - when heated, it forms compounds that are unacceptable for getting into food! The smokehouse tank should only be made of stainless steel.

There is a hole at the bottom of the washing machine container. You can use this moment to your advantage: connect a gas burner there. All that remains is to install a suitable container for wood chips above it. We turn on the burner to the required power - the sawdust heats up and smokes. The main thing is to adjust the heating strength so that the wood chips do not catch fire.

An excellent option for placing products is on hooks that are welded to the lid. For small pieces or carcasses, the built-in grill is suitable.

You can do without a gas burner - heat the bottom of the smokehouse over a fire. To do this, legs are made on the tank, and the drain hole is tightly sealed. By the way, it is convenient to make such a smokehouse with your own hands from the tank of not only an activator-type machine of the old model, but also from an automatic washing machine. Its drum, turned on its side, can be heated on the grill. The main thing is to seal the lid tightly.

All plastic parts must be removed. If the rotating element is made of metal, then you can safely leave it.

Two in one - smokehouse with stove

An interesting option for making a smokehouse with your own hands is when a stove is built directly in the body of the washing machine, which heats the sawdust. That is, not only the tank is involved here, but also the metal body itself.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

We remove the engine from the car, take out the tank, and cut a rectangular hole in the body.

Cutting a hole for the firebox

We seal the tank: to seal the holes without welding, you can use self-tapping screws with metal plates on them, they will close all the holes.

A grill from a refrigerator, oven, or some other mesh is suitable as a shelf for food. We weld it inside the tank.


We seal the lid - also using a plate and self-tapping screws.
We install the tank in its original place. We put about 100 grams of sawdust on the bottom and place food on the grate.

If you don't have a washing machine, you can replace it!

We make a fire through a sawn hole under the tank. If it is undesirable to do this on the surface where the smokehouse stands, then it is good to weld a metal sheet inside and place firewood on it.
When the smoke starts, you need to note the time required to smoke a particular product. During the process, it is advisable to check the condition of the meat or fish and ensure that the wood chips do not overheat.

Assembling an electric smokehouse

If you don’t want to bother with a fire, wood, or open fire, you can choose another heating source. For example, spiral heating element.

True, in order to equip a smokehouse with your own hands, you need to have certain skills and abilities. Firstly, you will have to do a lot of welding work yourself. In addition, electricity is always a danger, and everything needs to be done correctly with the heating source.

The tank is taken from a washing machine, as in the previous examples. The bottom of many machines is sloping. You can leave it like this, but then it is difficult to achieve uniform heating of the sawdust. It is better to cut it off and weld a flat piece of metal. Or systematically look for an old washing machine without a bevel.

The bottom of the machine tank needs to be leveled by welding a sheet

A good option is a smokehouse made from two washing machines. We cut off the bottom of the tank from the one that will be on top and weld it with the second tank. However, here you need to take into account that the containers of different machines may differ in diameter. Check if they can be connected before starting work.

Next we weld three or four legs. Inside - a grate or a pair of grates, if the capacity is high, for example, from two machines. This way you can increase the amount of smoked products, and the degree of heating will be different at the top and bottom. It’s good to make a stand at the very bottom for a container where the fat will drip - this applies to all smokehouses.

two tanks welded together

The most important part is the heating source. The spiral is suitable for 1 kilowatt. If the bottom is thin, a spare stainless steel plate is welded on to avoid burnout. Fastenings for the spiral can be made by welding iron plates around its perimeter. Install a heating element, make insulation from ceramic felt and mineral wool. The bottom from the second machine will serve as a lid. Remove the wires and install the terminals.

We attach the heating element to the bottom of the tank and cover it with special felt.

After welding work, it is necessary to check the tightness of the seams. Before carrying out it, it is advisable to wait a couple of days, during which microcracks may appear in the metal. The easiest way to check for leaks is with water.

There are other options for making a smokehouse with your own hands from various containers, including a tank from an old washing machine. You can use this container as a smoke generator for cold smoking. You can, on the contrary, equip the smoke source separately, and place the products for smoking in the tank. The main thing is to follow the basic rules for preparing food in this way. And then you can delight yourself and your loved ones with safe, delicious delicacies for a long time.


Looking at an old washing machine, any housewife dreams of quickly replacing it with a new assistant. The home craftsman, on the contrary, is in no hurry to throw the machine into scrap. He thinks about where this “wealth” can be used.

Answering the question of what can be made from a washing machine, let’s carefully consider it from all sides.

We will see that the design contains many useful components and assemblies that can receive a new life in the hands of a good craftsman.

Judge for yourself: a body and an engine, pulleys and a drum, a window with a sealed door, relays and switches - this is a list of components from which you can make many useful things and mechanisms in the household.

Let's explore together the most popular homemade options from old washing machines, both conventional and automatic.

Grinder

The first thing you should pay attention to after inspecting a used home washing machine is the engine. It has enough power and speed to make a homemade sharpener. No complex modifications are required here.

For the shaft you need to make an adapter attachment on which the grinding wheel will be attached. If we provide an additional “neck” for the cutting wheel at the seat, then together with the sharpener we will get a cutting machine. They can cut not only plastic pipes, but also metal (reinforcement, sheet or corner).

As you can see in the photo, the washing machine motor is attached to the frame using four brackets. The switch for it was removed from the same washing machine. A regular piece of thick board was used as the base. The option turned out to be quite acceptable, especially considering its mobility and ease of manufacture (no welding required).

Here is another similar option for using a motor to install a grinding and cutting wheel. Having placed them on a common adapter, they are clamped with a nut with a left-hand thread.

Simple crafts from an old washing machine

Not every person knows how to masterfully work with welding or a lathe. However, even in this case, you will be able to find a worthy use for the old washing machine. Look at the window that covers the drum. This is a masterpiece of engineering art and a godsend for design.

Without further ado, many use it for its intended purpose, but in an updated context. Cut out the washer door along with part of the body and you will get an excellent “marine” porthole. It will look original in any interior.

If you love your yard guard, then be sure to decorate his booth with this modern “facade”.

In addition to the original appearance, this option has practical significance: if necessary, the dog can be easily isolated from guests without fear for their legs and clothes.

Just don’t forget to make side ventilation holes in the booth (the window on the automatic washing machine is sealed!).

Coffee table made from a washing machine

Your old automatic washing machine, or rather its drum, will help decorate the interior of your apartment. You can use it to make an original coffee table. Perforated stainless steel, complemented by colored lighting, looks great.

It is not difficult to make such an unusual piece of furniture in the high-tech style. You will need several steel rods that need to be attached to the washer drum. A round tabletop made of glass or MDF board is fixed on them.

Brazier

The body of the washing drum, made of durable and high-quality stainless steel, can withstand very high temperatures. Therefore, it can be used as a barbecue.

A few pipes, half an hour of welding and a convenient barbecue grill will appear on your estate. By making the supporting part of the structure collapsible, you can take it with you on country picnics.

Drums from front-loading machines, as well as from top-loading washing machines, are suitable for making barbecues. In this case, you will have to cut off one of the sides of the body with a grinder, and provide it with a stable support from below.

Mobile smokehouse

Why buy an expensive smoker for fish and meat when there is an old washing machine sitting idle on the farm? There are many options for using it in this capacity.

We will focus only on the mobile device. It can be made from a drum removed from a top-loading automatic washing machine.

To prevent smoke from escaping through the side perforated holes, they must be muffled with a thin steel sheet, wrapped and secured around the body. On top, as it should be in a real smokehouse, we make a hole for the chimney. We fix a smoking grate inside the drum (you can take it from an old gas stove).

Concrete mixer

This is a rather complex device, which, in addition to mixing concrete, must ensure its unloading. Therefore, when planning to make a concrete mixer out of an old washing machine, first weigh your plumbing skills and knowledge.

The easiest way to turn a barrel washer into a device for mixing concrete is to replace the standard activator with super-shaped blades. They can be made from a thick 4-5 mm steel strip. To do this, you need to cut it to size, then bend the two blades and rotate them 90 degrees relative to each other.

After this, they need to be welded to a shaft passed through the hole for the remote activator.

The drain hole, which is in every barrel washing machine, must be plugged. Next we proceed depending on how much concrete will need to be mixed. If we are talking about 1 bucket, then you can leave the old single-phase motor.

If you need to prepare a large volume of concrete, then in place of the old motor you will have to install a more powerful one (0.75-1.2 kW) with low speeds (1300-1500 per minute).

In addition, the “original” belt drive must be replaced with a gearbox that reduces the speed (from 1300 to 25-30) and increases the torque on the mixer blades.

Note that the best mixing quality is obtained when it is not the shaft with the activator that rotates, but the concrete mixer body itself with the blades fixedly fixed in it. However, to create such a design, a deeper and more complex modification of the washer is required.

Sterilizer for preservation

Another homemade product from an old barrel washing machine will be useful for the dacha and farmstead. This is a sterilizer in which you can install a dozen jars for heat treatment.

The only point that needs to be taken into account: such a device is suitable for sterilizing fruits and vegetables. To process meat, a higher temperature is needed (above + 100C).

The rework sequence looks like this:

  • A plug is placed on the activator hole;
  • A thick wire mesh for cans is mounted on the bottom;
  • You need to place a support under the mesh;
  • A hole is drilled in the housing for installation of a 2 kW electric boiler.

1. Activator plug;
2. Water level;
3. Washing machine tank;
4. Cover;
5. Drain hose;
6. Cans with preservation;
7. Wire mesh;
8. Electric boiler (heater) 2 kW;
9. Electrical cable.

Juicer

There are two options here:

  • Using an old machine with a centrifuge and a washing compartment;
  • Remaking a conventional barrel washing machine.

Let’s say right away that the first option is better, since it allows, with minimal modifications, to implement two processes in one device: chopping fruit and squeezing it. To do this, you will need a washing machine in which the activator is located on the bottom, and not on the side wall. Replacing it with three homemade strip steel knives, we get a fruit slicer.

Knife installation diagram:
1. Knife,
2. Shaft;
3. Clamping nut;
4. Washer;
5. Tank bottom;
6. Bearing assembly with oil seal;
7. Activator pulley;
8. Locking screw.

The drain hole of the washing tank must be plugged.

There are few additional treatments for the second unit - the centrifuge. You need to install a stainless steel mesh in it (mesh size 1.5 mm, wire thickness 0.2 mm) so that it covers the side surface of the centrifuge.

After thoroughly rinsing the centrifuge, washing tank, hoses and pump with baking soda, you can make the first load.

The operating principle of this juicer is very simple. The fruits are washed and loaded in small portions (1/2 -1 bucket) into the washing tank (knives must be turned on). After 15-20 minutes of cutting, the engine is turned off and the crushed mass is transferred to a centrifuge (in portions of 3-4 liters). Turn on the centrifuge and squeeze out the juice.

Making a juicer from a barrel washing machine or automatic machine is much more difficult. In a barrel, a homemade centrifuge can become a “stumbling block”. Making it is half the battle; the main thing is to achieve perfectly accurate alignment. Without this, at high speeds it begins to vibrate strongly and it will be impossible to squeeze out the juice.

Here is a drawing of a working sample. The master had to work hard to reduce the runout of the centrifuge (the motor is suspended from the washing machine body on 6 springs). Of these, 3 balance the engine in a horizontal plane, and the other 3 push it upward. The body itself rests on an old car tire, which dampens vibration.

Feather removal machine

The body of an old washing machine is suitable for assembling a device that can be used to remove feathers from poultry carcasses. To make it, you need to install a steel disk 3 mm thick and with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the tank at the bottom of the tank.

Holes are drilled in it and special rubber fingers are placed in them. They are the most expensive elements of the future design (1.5-2 dollars per piece). On average, you need 120-140 pieces. The diameter of the fingers depends on the type of bird being plucked. Please keep this in mind when you place your order.

All other components of the washing machine, including the motor, do not need to be changed. Holes are drilled in the side walls of the case for installing pen-removing (punch) fingers. To do this, you need to step back 15 cm from the bottom of the tank.

The distance between the holes for the fingers is chosen within 3-4 cm. The lower disk is mounted on the drive shaft.

There is no need to plug the drain hole here. It will be needed to drain water that drains from the carcasses. After scalding the bird in boiling water, it is placed in a tank and the engine is turned on. Rubber fingers remove the pen quickly and cleanly.







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