Installation of antenna sockets. TV socket single or terminal

Connecting a TV cable to an outlet has become practically a rule in the repair industry, because it represents convenience, simplicity and safety. The television outlet is always selected to match the planned one.

Is it possible to connect several cables for different purposes to one outlet? Yes, because existing sockets work with several standards (TV, SAT, FM): both individually and in combination.

Types of TV sockets

A modern antenna socket has filters to suppress noise. This reduces the amount of interference and improves the quality of reception.

• To receive satellite broadcasts, you need a model marked SAT.
• FM marking for radio reception.
• For analogue, cable and digital signals, the marking is TV.

There are single and integrated into blocks, terminal and pass-through devices. Depending on the installation method, they are manufactured in two versions - surface and hidden. The latter provide appropriate mounting boxes.

Single TV

A single model with one connector is a common electrical installation device for connecting a TV to an antenna. It is not equipped with matching devices, which is why it is susceptible to the effect of signal reflection back into the cable, which affects the image quality.

Checkpoint

The pass-through socket is actually a splitter. The signal entering it goes not only to the socket, but is also redirected further, to the next socket or to the end one in the chain.

Final

The terminal socket contains a matching device to suppress the reflected signal.

What is the difference between the final and simple models

All types are characterized by different specific signal attenuation. The terminal socket is distinguished from a simple, single socket by its large attenuation value.

How to choose a TV socket

Antenna sockets are designed for radio, TV, satellite signals and the Internet. There are devices on sale with different combinations of connectors that are designed for all types of the above signals. Designations and inscriptions on the product body indicate the amount of signal attenuation in decibels, the direction of signal passage, and the frequency of its transmission. Cable, digital, analog and satellite TV have different frequency ranges: the first three need a connector up to 1000 MHz, and a satellite dish needs a connector over 1000 MHz.

Choosing the right device type begins with diagnosing the network type. A parallel or “star” network is used when each receiver needs a separate cable. This is a more modern network structure, recommended for two reasons: firstly, it is reliable (the receivers operate independently, so damage to one does not affect the operation of the others), and secondly, in a parallel installation, a return transmission channel can be used, for example, to support Internet connections. It requires the use of finite models exclusively.

In the earlier, pass-through circuit (also serial or “loop”), pass-through models are used, which means that each of them, acting as a kind of divider, is a signal source for the first receiver and transmits the signal to subsequent consumers. The terminal socket closes the line.

Installation and connection of a TV outlet

To connect a TV cable to an outlet, no specific knowledge is required. The simplified procedure is as follows:

1. socket boxes are placed in recesses;
2. the ends of the cable are inserted with a small margin into the openings of the boxes;
3. connect the socket to the cable and tighten the screws;
4. The housing is screwed to the socket box using spacer screws.

Antenna socket device

The design of modern wall TV connectors includes the following elements:

• housing (the antenna input contains a spring or screw contact terminal for connecting the central conductor of the cable, an auxiliary terminal contact is used to connect the shielding braid);
• metal frame (support) for fixing all parts together and fastening them in the socket box;
• plastic front panel (in different colors).

Optimal height

The height of the wall antenna connectors is the height of hanging or installing the TV; it is advisable to place the sockets in close proximity to the antenna input of the TV receiver. The optimal height is considered to be 1.2-1.4 m from the floor when wall-mounting the TV. And 20-30 cm if the TV is installed on the bedside table.

It would be wise to equip several TV outlets in one room of the apartment. Thus, after rearranging the furniture, you will not have to trench the walls of the room or pull the antenna cable along the floor over a significant distance.

How to connect a TV cable to an outlet

Carefully, being careful not to damage the braid and center conductor, strip the ends of the cable. To do this, use a knife to make two circular cuts: the first (small) - at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the outer insulation and the second, cutting through the insulation between the central core and the braid - 6-8 mm from the edge. Remove the cut sections of the shells.

Insert the cleaned end of the cable into the terminal block, which is located at the rear of the case. Tighten the screw mechanism using a screwdriver (check for secure contact). Insert the device into the socket and secure it with the screws that adjust the side clamps. Screw on the decorative frame.

Modern products do not require special cable preparation when connecting; it is enough to insert the cleaned core into the clamping mount, where it is automatically pressed against the contact terminal, and a wedge-shaped stop penetrates under the insulation and closes the contact.

Connection errors

1. The back side of the foil does not conduct current. Ring the cable - if there is no contact, remove the foil.
2. In an analog loop-type network, it is unacceptable to install sockets without resistors (load) where there are empty connectors - this is a guaranteed cause of future interference from connected television receivers.
3. 75 Ohm resistors in the wall connector circuit are not acceptable for satellite TV. The result will be the disappearance of the signal. Drink or bite.

Nowadays it is difficult to imagine a house or apartment that would not have a TV. Increasingly, there are not even one, but two or three. In this case, the wires of the antenna or cable television may get tangled under your feet or simply not aesthetically pleasing to the eye. Connecting a television outlet will help eliminate these problems. If you install a TV outlet, you will be able to hide the wires and protect them from accidental breaks and other damage.

How to connect a TV socket

Before connecting the television cable to the outlet yourself, you need to decide which type of fastening is preferable. There are three types of TV sockets according to installation method:

External overhead TV socket

Hidden connection socket (built into the wall)

Pass-through TV socket

According to their functions, all sockets should be divided into:

• Terminal - most often used if you need to connect one TV. Like pass-through TV sockets, terminal sockets can be used to connect multiple TVs, however, this type may cause interference.
• A pass-through socket that serves as a signal splitter. Each such outlet is connected to one cable through which the signal arrives and one through which the signal goes further. Used for two or more TVs. A pass-through socket creates less interference with a large number of TVs.

If you decide to install a TV outlet yourself, then you need to acquire the following tools:

• Actually, the TV outlet itself.
• Stripping tool.
• Screwdrivers.
• Impact drill or hammer drill.
• Fasteners.

Wiring diagram for a hidden TV outlet.

Connecting a surface-mounted television socket is much easier. In order to install a socket for an overhead TV cable you need:

• Remove the insulation from the cable.
• Open the case. To do this, either unscrew the screw or forcefully pull the top edge of the socket.
• Secure the central core inside the housing.
• Assemble the housing and install it in place.

For greater clarity and simplification of the process of installing sockets, you should watch the video of connecting a TV socket. The video clearly shows how to connect a socket for a television cable with your own hands.

Connect the TV to the outlet using a short RG-6 cable or similar. To do this, one end of the cable should be connected to the TV, and the other should be plugged into a power outlet.

Alternative installation option.

If you do not have the strength, means or desire to install a television coaxial cable yourself, then the Yudu platform specialists will be able to help in this matter.

Using a TV outlet allows you to hide the antenna cable, protect it from damage and get rid of dangling wires. After reading the instructions, installing a device of any configuration yourself will not cause any problems.

TV sockets are intended for transition from the antenna line to television equipment, connecting multiple subscribers or additional switching devices. Available in three types:

• Single (individual) – used when directly connecting a single TV or several using a signal divider;
• Pass-through - used to organize two or more television points without installing an additional distributor;
• Terminals - have increased resistance and are used to connect the last device in the pass-through loop.

It is advisable to use the option with pass-through sockets when the signal level is strong, and to install single devices and antenna amplifiers when the signal level is weak.

Installation begins with creating a connection diagram. In the case of one TV, it is enough to stretch the cable from an individual antenna or from a common panel. Several TV sockets are connected in a “star” circuit using a splitter or a “loop” of 2-3 pass-through sockets and one terminal socket. Cable laying can be done in two ways:

• Hidden installation - the wire is hidden in the wall, the internal socket is installed in the socket box;
• Open method - a plastic box is used for wiring, and a surface socket is mounted.

The antenna cable is laid at the minimum possible distance and away from power wires.

To work, you will need a tool for removing insulation (knife or side cutters), screwdrivers, a drill and an attachment for making holes for the mounting box if a hidden type socket is used. Fasteners are selected depending on the wall material: dowels for concrete and brick, screws for wood. First, the socket box is installed:

1. The location of the outlet is determined and markings are made.
2. Using a special attachment on a drill, a hole is drilled with a depth equal to the height of the socket box.
3. The resulting recess is cleaned and the box is installed.
4. The socket box is fixed with a dowel into a pre-drilled hole.
5. A cable about 10 cm long is inserted into the box.
6. The cracks around are covered with putty.

The cable is being cut:

1. At a distance of 30 mm from the edge, a shallow incision is made into the PVC shell with a knife;
2. The plastic braid is broken by hand and separated;
3. Approximately 10 mm from the end, the braiding and core insulation are removed.

Trimming the cable sheaths is carried out carefully and carefully - deep marks on the copper core subsequently lead to its break and loss of contact. The absence of short circuit between the screen foil and the core is also monitored.

The front panel is removed from the socket. The center conductor of the cable is connected to the terminal located in the middle of the rear part of the socket and tightened with a screw. The screen braid is fixed with an appropriate clamp. The socket body is placed in the mounting box, the spacer screws are tightened, and the surface of the socket should be flush with the wall surface. The outer frame is fixed and the operation of the television outlet is checked.

It is now difficult to imagine almost any human home without household appliances. Homes are equipped with computers, refrigerators, coffee grinders and coffee makers, and of course the most famous device is the TV. If any of the listed devices is sufficient in quantity of one piece, then the number of televisions in a separate apartment can be equal to the number of rooms.

TV socket: types and connection diagrams

Despite the fact that wireless data transmission technologies are developing at full speed, connections using cables and wires do not lose their relevance. In turn, this area does not stand still. For example, the installation of television cables has changed qualitatively; now, instead of a cable hanging from the ceiling or attached to the baseboard, only a neat television socket is visible, and the cable itself is hidden in the wall. There are several types of sockets, and each is used according to certain parameters.

Types of TV sockets:

• Single;
• Checkpoint;
• Final.

Single sockets are used to connect, as their name suggests, one TV and are used as independent electrical equipment. But it is possible to connect such sockets in groups.

It is important to know! Do not use terminal sockets to connect one TV, as they have high signal power attenuation of up to 10 dB.

Pass-through television sockets are used in circuits to connect a group of sockets. These sockets consist of one input (the connecting cable is connected) and two outputs (one of them goes to the TV, the other to the next socket).

Termination sockets are always installed as the final element of a television circuit. There are several types of circuits for connecting television sockets, following which you can achieve a high-quality connection with minimal signal loss.

• Parallel (star);
• Consistently;
• Individual connection.

The most reliable is the connection of several outlets with a star. From the low-current distribution board, through the distribution device (splitter), the signal for each TV is transmitted separately via cable.

Using feed-through and terminal sockets, the sockets are connected with a cable. The convenience of this method is that cable consumption is significantly reduced. But if one of the conductors is damaged, subsequent ones will work with strong interference. In order to connect one socket, one cable is laid, without the use of additional elements.

Installation and connection of Legrand TV socket

Installing a television outlet for cable television or the Internet is no different from installing a regular power outlet. The only exception is the correct connection, on which the signal quality depends.

To work you will need:

• Screwdriver Set;
• Stationery knife;
• Pliers;
• Hammer with a set of crowns.

First of all, in the place where the socket is installed, we make a marking and drill a niche in the wall with a hammer drill. Then, we insert a cable into a pre-made hole in the socket box and mount the socket box into the wall (for this you can use self-tapping screws or cover the socket box with alabaster using a spatula).

After installing the electrical outlet, you can proceed to connecting the television cable to the outlet. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the front part of the socket. Next, unscrew the bolt from the clamping cover of the conductive element.

For ease of installation of the socket in the socket box, follow the length of the cable. If necessary, shorten it to the required size.

Now, according to the height of the clamping cover, we strip the cable. On the outer shell, we make shallow cuts in a circle, and then, breaking the cable at the cut site, remove the insulation. We manually wind the cable braid into one or two “braids” and put it aside. Next, the central wire is stripped according to the length of the central wire terminal (8 - 10 mm).

Having first released the clamping bolt, insert the central wire into the terminal and tighten it. Carefully lay the braid and press it with the lid. Then we install the socket in the socket, fasten it and screw the front part. Ready!

How to properly strip a TV cable under the F connectors

In order to connect a coaxial (antenna) cable to an amplifier, splitter or antenna, there are various F - connectors. Due to which a high-quality connection between the cable and the device is ensured.

KindsF connectors:

• Rifled;
• Crimping.

Threaded connectors are quite popular. They have one significant advantage - reusable use. But, due to its design features and installation method, when wound onto the cable, the braiding and shielding films (foil) are damaged.

For example, let’s take a standard RG-6 cable. Carefully cut off one centimeter of outer insulation from the cable. The freed braid should be twisted into two or three “pigtails” (this will ensure ease of installation of the connector), and together with the foil we bend it onto the outer shell. We retreat approximately 3 mm from the cut point and cut off the sheath from the central wire. We evenly lay the braid and foil and screw the connector onto the cable.

There are types of cables with thick braiding, and the connector is simply impossible to mount. In this case, 2 cm of the outer insulation is cut off. Then the braid is wound onto the internal insulation clockwise, the central cable is stripped about 3 mm from the wound braid and the connector is screwed on.

Important condition! For a high-quality signal, do not cut off the shielding braid and foil from the cable.

When using crimp connectors, remove insulation from the cable. We put the connector on the cable and, using a crimping device, crimp the cable.

Two ways: how to properly connect the antenna cable

If suddenly, for some reason, the television cable breaks, you need to move the TV, and the antenna cable is not enough to connect, you can use two simple ways to extend the cable.

Cable connection methods:

• Adapters;
• Soldering.

In order to make a connection using an adapter, you need to strip the ends of the cables to be connected, equip them with connectors and screw the central part of the adapter between them, thereby making the connection.

To prevent interference on the TV screen, when connecting cables, make sure that the shielding part of the cable does not touch the center wire.

Connecting cables using soldering is much more efficient and reliable in many respects. To do this, you need to make a longitudinal cut on the connected cables, approximately 2 cm. Next, the outer insulation and shielding elements are turned away. Then, the sheath is cut off from the central wire approximately 1 cm along (the insulation remains on one side of the central cable).

For ease of soldering, bend the central wires and solder them. Before soldering, the cables should be positioned so that subsequently the insulation of the central cable protects it from all sides. Next, we connect the shielding elements and lay the outer shell on top. Everything is insulated and ready for use.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

In this article I will tell you about installing and connecting a TV socket of the Glossa series from Schneider Electric (article GSL000191).

Low-current networks, like power distribution networks, must be laid hidden so that these cables do not get in the way and are not obvious, trying to spoil the completed type of repair.

If previously low-current networks were not given much attention and television cables could simply be laid underfoot or along the baseboard, then in the modern age of digital and information technologies there are much more low-current cables - these include television, the Internet, speaker systems, and smart home, fire and security alarm, intercom, video surveillance, etc. So in any case, you need to take care of their hidden gasket. But this article will focus exclusively on television cables and sockets.

In my example, a television coaxial cable brand RG-6U is laid hidden along the walls and ceiling in a plastic corrugated pipe with a diameter of 16 (mm).

The corrugation is attached to the base of the walls and ceiling using plastic clips.

It is in this socket that you need to install and connect a TV socket so that in the future you can transmit a signal from the antenna network to the TV through it.

All electrical installation products (sockets, switches, dimmers, etc.) in the apartment are planned to be installed from the Glossa series from Schneider Electric, and the television socket is no exception. The TV socket of the Glossa series has the article number GSL000191. Using this example, I will show you how to install and connect it.

Appearance and overall dimensions.

The design of the TV outlet is quite simple. It consists of an external panel with an F-connector, a mechanism for connecting a coaxial cable and an installation support for securing the socket in the socket box.

Here are its technical characteristics:

• operating frequency 5-862 (MHz)
• input and output impedance 75 (Ohm)
• attenuation at tap 1(dB)
• degree of protection IP20 (read about)

As you can see, the attenuation (attenuation) of the signal at the coupler is only 1 (dB). I think this is a pretty good indicator.

How to connect a TV socket

So, we need to connect the output TV cable in the socket box to the purchased TV socket.

First of all, we need to remove the outer sheath from the cable to a length of about 20-25 (mm). I usually remove insulation from round cables using my . If you are interested, follow the link provided and get acquainted.

I adjust the depth of the cut, then grab the cable with a knife and make a cross-section.

After this, I make a longitudinal cut along the cable - the outer sheath is removed.

The screen in television cables comes in several designs:

• only aluminum foil
• aluminum foil and copper braiding over it
• copper braid only

In my case, the cable has aluminum foil with copper braiding.

Yes, by the way, if the cable has an outer diameter of less than 7 (mm), then the aluminum foil and braid must be unscrewed over the outer sheath of the cable so that the contact between the metal cover of the TV socket and the foil and braid is sufficiently tight.

We have just such a case - the outer diameter of the RG-6U cable used is 6.5-6.6 (mm).

Now we need to unscrew the braided aluminum foil back onto the cable sheath. To do this, I first make a braid from copper braid.

Then I lay the braid on the outer sheath of the cable, and wrap the foil over it. It turns out something like this.

But keep in mind that the inner side of the foil has a non-conductive coating, so half of the folded foil must be bent and turned back with the conductive side up, otherwise you will not have contact with the metal cover of the TV socket. Let's leave the braid in this position for now.

Now we take the TV socket, unscrew the fastening screw on the cover and open it up.

Now we need to retreat a small distance from the edge of the foil, approximately 2 (mm), and remove the insulation from the central core of the cable. The central core should be stripped to a length of about 7-8 (mm), the excess should be cut off.

Then you need to insert the central core of the cable all the way into the terminal of the television socket and tighten the screw.

Here, please note that I laid the remaining braid on top of the aluminum foil.

Pay attention to the absence of short circuit of the foil and hairs of the cable braid to the central core!

The contact between the metal socket cover and the braided aluminum foil is quite tight. For clarity, I even disconnected it to make sure of this.

Now all that remains is to install the TV socket in the socket box.

Everything is simple here, the TV socket is installed using two spacer legs and additionally secured with two fastening screws.

And by tradition, I check the installation level of the TV socket using my .

Two power sockets and an RJ-45 computer socket (cat. 5e) will also be installed under the common frame. I will write a separate article about installing and connecting a computer outlet, so subscribe to the site’s mailing list to stay updated on the release of a new article.

This is how it turned out in the end.

Please note that the socket boxes and mechanisms are turned 90°. This was done because there was no 4-post vertical frame available for sale, so a horizontal one was used, but all the mechanisms had to be turned 90°. There is nothing critical about this, because these are not switches, which in this case would be inconvenient to use, but sockets and there is not much difference in how to connect the plug into them, upside down or not. And in the end, this block will generally be hidden behind the TV.

Now all that remains is to make a jumper connecting the TV socket to the TV, but this is the topic of a separate article.

TV socket connection diagrams

If you have only one TV in the house, then everything is simple. A single (individual) TV outlet connection is used.

But nowadays, one TV in the house is already a rarity. At a minimum, citizens install televisions in the living room, in the nursery, in the kitchen, etc. Accordingly, the question arises about their connection diagram.

Personally, I am in favor of laying television cables not in a loop from one TV outlet to another, as many do, but rather having its own separate cable from the input low-current panel from the splitter (splitter) to each TV. This connection is called parallel or “star”.

With such a scheme, there will be much less attenuation of the television signal, and the reliability of the entire low-current network will be significantly improved. For example, if one of the outgoing television cables is damaged, other televisions will continue to operate normally. True, with this scheme there is an overuse of cable, but as they say, you have to pay for everything.

Well, the third scheme is connecting TV sockets in a line, or in other words, with a cable.

When connecting TV sockets with a cable, the cable from the low-current panel goes first to TV socket No. 1, from there it goes to TV socket No. 2, etc. Please note that when using this scheme, it is necessary to use pass-through TV sockets, but the last socket must always be the end socket. Below I will explain how they differ.

When using this connection method, television cable is saved, but there will be some weakening of the signal. If the signal is strong at the first TV socket, then at the last one it will be slightly weaker. In fact, this is not entirely critical, because... The cable TV input signal is initially quite powerful, and almost all modern TVs have the function of automatically amplifying and regulating the signal.

One of the disadvantages of this method is that if the contact is lost or the cable to the first TV socket is damaged, the others will stop working.

Types of TV sockets

Let me remind you that there are only single (they are also called simple), terminal and pass-through TV sockets. You have already noticed this from the designations in the above diagrams.

A single (simple) TV socket has the same design as a terminal socket, only it does not contain an internal 75 (Ohm) resistor. Thus, the quality of the transmitted signal will be the same, but provided that a TV is turned on in each of the sockets.

In the case of a single socket, if the TV is not connected to it, interference and image distortion may be observed on other TVs if they are connected in a star configuration. This occurs because the line resistance of a single socket is equalized by the resistance of the connected TV. The terminal TV sockets, as you already saw at the beginning of the article, have a built-in resistor equal to the characteristic impedance of the line 75 (Ohm), and they are not afraid of such manipulations.

Pass-through TV sockets have two terminals (input and output). The incoming cable is connected to them, and then there is a connector for connecting the outgoing cable to another TV outlet. Sometimes this connector is combined into one connector, but this all depends on the specific manufacturer.

The truth is that for pass-through sockets, the attenuation at the tap is about 4 (dB), which is significantly greater than for terminal sockets, which means that with each subsequent pass-through socket installed, the signal will decrease more and more. But as I already said, this is actually not that critical.

Addition

At the end of the article I decided to make a small addition on the topic of installing TV sockets.

Of course, the installed TV socket looks very nice and neat.

But recently, instead of installing TV sockets, they began to actively use special supports and output the TV cable directly to the TV, leaving a corresponding cable reserve of about 1 (m).

This method certainly has its advantages. Firstly, there is no need to purchase a TV outlet. Secondly, there is no need to make a jumper that will connect the TV socket to the TV. Thirdly, there is no unnecessary connection, due to which the signal may suddenly deteriorate.

This method has a right to life, because in any case, the supply of wire will not be visible, because These outlets are usually installed directly behind the TV.

But here there are several options for execution.

The first option is to purchase special cable outlets, in which it is possible to fix the cable in the socket and remove the necessary supply.

But the fact is that such supports have a cost commensurate with a TV socket, and maybe even more expensive, and besides, not every manufacturer produces such accessories. For example, the Glossa series from Schneider Electric does not produce such accessories; only the Sedna and Odace series have them.

The second option is to purchase special plugs. They are much cheaper in cost than cable outlets. A hole is drilled in the plug and the TV cable is brought out.

And again we are faced with the situation that the Glossa series from Schneider Electric also does not have such accessories; only the Unica, Sedna and Odace series have them.

The third option is a completely budget option, which is to install nothing at all in this socket box. After all, this place will in any case be hidden from view behind the TV body.

Choose an option according to your tastes and capabilities!

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about connecting a television outlet. The general principle of connecting TV sockets remains the same for all manufacturers. The center core must be connected to an appropriate clamp or terminal, and the shield and braid must be connected to a metal cover, bracket, or flexible connection to a printed circuit board to which a standard F connector is directly soldered.

P.S. That's probably all. If you have any questions, ask in the comments. Thank you for your attention.

53 comments on the post “How to install and connect a TV socket of the Glossa series from Schneider Electric”

Why then was it not possible to make the block horizontal, if it was such a problem to find a horizontal frame? Okay, they installed it vertically with the sockets turned 90 degrees, but if the power cable is not straight, but angled, it will end up sticking out to the side. Whereas with a horizontal block arrangement, all this will look down. It's not thought out somehow.
And developing and deepening the thought, it was possible not to put a frame at all, anyway, the TV would be covered and it would not be visible and not critical.

Can you provide a link to a video of a low-current shield?...
And a question: if you lead the cable directly to the TV through a cable outlet, then the plug at the end of the cable does not have a resistor, i.e. Is this cable required to be connected to the TV? Should the TV be turned on? And if you are not sure that there will be a TV there, then you need to install an outlet?

Is it not possible to install frames from Glossa on another series of EUIs?

Dmitry, it is planned to install a wall bracket for TV there and its exact dimensions are not yet known. Therefore, I had to install a vertical block and move it a little away from the TV, but in any case it will be hidden behind the TV. A cable with a side entry (angular entry) will protrude to the side - well, let it protrude, who is it bothering behind the TV?!

Yaroslav, I haven’t assembled the low-current shield yet, I just installed it in a niche. There is a link to it in the article. Yes, in principle, there will be nothing special there. An input cable from the entrance, a splitter and three outgoing lines in a star configuration. Regarding the second question - now this is not entirely relevant due to modern technology, which includes various noise-resistant filters at the input, signal amplifiers, etc.

Vladimir, I’m not sure they’ll fit.

In general, as always, everything is great! But I’ll still make comments (I obviously won’t give the ultimate truth, but I read it in a very good source and observed it in practice). Of course, this is hard for us electricians to understand, it’s probably closer to signalmen, but still:
- ANY connection weakens the signal by exactly 2 times, so connecting through a socket is generally undesirable; the best solution is a long cable.
- the signal strength on regular cable television is enough to divide into exactly 2 TVs, an attempt to connect 3 or more is a failure (I saw this myself, while there were 2 everything was ok, as soon as they connected 3 it seemed to have interference and on all three at the same time)
- and by the way, the cable should be taken like a sausage - the thicker the better. A thin cable can miraculously cut off half of an enormous channel package.
P.S. I’m not a weak-current person, so I just stupidly follow all this, I haven’t tried to understand why yet, although I have the desire.

Thank you! In my apartment, the TV cable is laid along the baseboard. The cable goes from the panel to TV “A” length ~20m at TV”A” splitter to TV and further to TV “B” length ~25m at TV”B” splitter to TV and further ~15m into the abyss (ends with a connector in a dusty corner )
Why is there a bad signal on TV "B"?
When making the connectors, the shielded foil was bent once, and not twice (that is, it touches the other side.) This may be because of this, although the same mistake was made when connecting TV “A”, but the image there is normal.

Yaroslav, firstly, disconnect the outgoing cable from the TV-B splitter that you are not using. Secondly, double-check the quality of the connections in the F-plugs; it is possible that a bad connection was made somewhere. Moreover, you yourself say that initially the foil was turned out the other way. It is possible that on TV-A it still has some kind of connection with the connector body, or there is less interference there, because The cable initially comes to TV-A.

I would like to know: if you put a socket with resistance at the end of an unused cable (this cable is rare, but it is used) or will it still eat up part of the signal?
Is the right side of the foil so important? Is the other side really performing very poorly?

And one more question: how do you feel about amplifiers without power (which receive power from the cable itself)? I tried it, in my opinion it had no effect.

Yaroslav, if the contact is bad, then this most likely will not solve anything. If you rarely use a backup cable, then I would remove the splitter from TV-B altogether, because... it initially splits the input signal and makes it weaker. Try to do it this way first, i.e. Connect the cable directly to TV-B. The correct side of the foil is an important point and many, unfortunately, forget about it or don’t even know about it. I won’t say anything about amplifiers; I personally don’t use them; a general access signal is enough.

Thanks for answers! I'll try to do this.

Is there already a 75 ohm resistor in the terminal socket?
Then, when connecting a TV to this outlet, the total resistance (parallel) will be 37.5 ohms. Is this right?

Thank you for the article

Have you installed Schneider combined sockets - TV terminal and satellite?
It is completely unclear how it functions. I had to remove the double combination one and install separately the single one and the connector on the F-nut for the satellite.

Everything is in principle normal, but there is a jamb in the diagram with walk-throughs. The attenuation of pass-through sockets and taps must be counted. Moreover, the lower the attenuation on the tap and the number of taps, the higher the attenuation per pass, which must be taken into account. The coupler has -4dB - the pass-through attenuation will also be -4dB.
Commentators:
1: The connection weakens the signal by exactly 2 times only in special cases, mainly at frequencies from 5 GHz. Attenuation depends on the frequency of the signal, as well as wave, electrical, transition resistance and their combinations. For the UHF range, the attenuation on F-connectors and RGA is approximately 0.1 to 0.3 dB. Yes, boy, you're definitely not a weakling.
2. A treminator (resistor) is actually only needed on an empty terminal socket, so as not to catch the reflection. But you can also hang it on all empty holes.
3. Satellite sockets and dividers are distinguished by a frequency range of up to 2.5 GHz and diodes for power supply. By turning over and removing the diodes from the SAT divider, TV+SAT dividers and adders are perfectly made.
4. “the total resistance (parallel) will be 37.5 ohms” - do not confuse

“the total resistance (parallel) will be 37.5 ohms” - do not confuse characteristic impedance with electrical impedance.

The same as the active and reactance of the motor windings - measured - 1 ohm, divided 220 by 1 - the highest current is obtained!

The problem is not the difference between antenna and satellite sockets. The point is how Schneider installs two wires in a combined socket (TV+SAT). That was the question.

One cable comes to the Sat+TV socket, as well as sat+Tv+Radio. It carries both a TV signal and a satellite signal, as well as low-frequency control signals for the satellite receiver using the deseq protocol. In a socket, the signals are divided into bands and each goes to its own output, to its own receiver. Essentially, the socket is a kind of device called a diplexer. Signals from satellite and TV antennas are mixed when fed into the cable using a device called a multiswitch. From the multiswitch, a mixture of signals goes to the socket in one cable.

Thank you, Yuri.

Then there was no need to pull two cables into the socket. but it was possible to get by with one. But tell me, a multiswitch is an analogue of a divider, I think so.

It turns out that I completely miscalculated the double sockets...

In general, yes. Combination sockets are not so simple. Download the catalog for the series of installation devices you plan to install; there should be wiring diagrams there. Schneider and Legrand definitely have it. But anyway, you have installed too much cable, which is better than not enough. There will be a reserve. A multiswitch is a more complex device than a divider. Multiswitches are different, they have several inputs and several outputs. It all depends on how many dishes you want to connect to them and how many TV/Sat outlets there will be in your apartment or house. Describe your situation in more detail.

I made myself sockets for connecting speaker systems. Throughout the apartment I used the Schneider Wessen 59 series. This series does not have sockets for acoustics. But there are stubs. I tried to order them in several online stores, but was refused everywhere, then I wrote to Schneider’s technical support and received an answer that the product was discontinued, but was still present in the catalog of this series. Then I bought a splash-proof IP44 socket and attached the terminal block to the cover of the socket; it is white, smooth, and looks like a plug.

Yuri, interesting solution.

Yuri, great solution.

My situation is this - the Schneider Sedna series.
I made double wires in two places (SAT and TV). and took double terminal sockets. Now in one place I just put the usual adapters for the F-nuts. There is only one plate, the signal from it goes to the divider. From the divider, two cables go directly to the receivers. There is nothing in the second place yet.

I downloaded the Sedna catalog before ordering, but I didn’t see anything special about installing combined sockets.

As I understand it, there is only one satellite operator; there is no need to change the polarization parameters. That is, there is no problem of simultaneously receiving NTV+ and Tricolor or any other operators. Then you can get by with buying two diplexers, one per socket. The price of one piece in Nizhny Novgorod is 165 rubles. But we also need to look at the attenuation. Is your signal strong? The diplexer has two TV and sat inputs, and one common output. A long-term antenna will send signals to the diplexer and in one cable feed them to the socket. And so on for each outlet. It will be cheaper than a multiswitch, but the diplexer is a passive device and naturally introduces attenuation, and the dividers will also introduce attenuation. Instead of dividers and diplexers, you can buy the cheapest multiswitch. Price in Nizhny Novgorod 1200 3 entrances, one of them is TV, 4 exits. Thus, there is less attenuation and two backup outputs, if you suddenly decide to increase the number of sockets. And using a multiswitch will make it possible to watch, for example, NTV+ and Tricolor on different TVs at the same time. This is not possible with Diplexers.

There is an outdoor antenna. I installed a similar terminal socket. If you connect directly to the antenna wire, then there is a signal. If through the outlet, there is no signal. For a long time I could not understand why, but the problem turned out to be a 75 Ohm resistor, which in my case had to be removed. The design of the socket does not imply disassembly, so it took a little effort to carefully disassemble it and then reassemble it. After this, the signal appeared.

The information is incomplete - antenna with/without an amplifier?

The antenna is without amplification, as it receives the signal normally even without it.

Hello. There was a problem connecting the Jung s2900 TV socket. It seems clear where to insert the wire, but it does not insert. Either there is a manufacturing defect or we are doing something wrong. We unscrew the pressure plate, unscrew the screw using a slotted screwdriver, but the central core of the cable does not fit into the hole... something is stopping it. We will be grateful for your advice.

Ekaterina, did you unscrew the screw (which is for a flat slot) before inserting the core?!

So where is the promised review of installing a computer socket? Thank you!!!

Andrey, I still can’t get it together. Soon I will install another batch of TV and PC sockets, I hope that I will find time for filming.

I would like to see equally detailed instructions for connecting the Glossa internet outlet

Olga, the article has almost been written, but there is still no time to bring it to the final stage. I heard your request, I don’t promise, but I will try to publish it soon.

Olga, ask if you have questions. There are no big differences in the installation itself. Only another cable is connected. I didn’t connect Glossa, but I had to connect Unica. The cores are laid out by color (the color marking is on the terminal block) and pressed with a strip. There is no need to strip the core insulation; the insulation is pierced by the contact knives itself. On the marking of the core layout there are type A and type B, type B is most often used, and I recommend it to you. If you do according to A, nothing will change, the main thing is that it is the same everywhere, either A everywhere, or B everywhere.

“Pass-through TV sockets have two terminals (input and output). The incoming cable is connected to them, and then there is a connector for connecting the outgoing cable to another TV outlet. Sometimes this connector is combined into one connector, but it all depends on the specific manufacturer."

Please tell me, I’m not an electrician and I don’t understand many things, I have a TV socket from Schneider Gloss with two outputs, i.e. almost the same socket as in your (admin) case in the photo, but with two screws.
Question: I have a private house, the input cable from the satellite dish comes out of the outlet. I plug it into the TV socket. No signal. At the same time, there are no other TVs yet, and they will be connected each separately from the water cable through a splitter. Or should I have bought a TV termination socket?

You need to buy a satellite outlet (SAT), not a television outlet (TV). The TV socket does not allow higher frequency signals from the satellite dish to pass through.

Thank you, Yuri!

I bought a GLOSSA GSL 000391 socket, it says it’s single. But the tester measures 75 ohms on an empty connector. I searched through various sellers’ websites, where it says it’s single, where it’s terminal... But since there’s 75 ohms, it turns out it’s terminal, and how competent comrades write, it’s not suitable for numbers. What do you say? And is it possible in this particular model to bite off these 75 Ohms?

The socket is your final one. The Glossa series is quite budget-friendly and does not have a single socket. Always refer to the primary sources, in our case this is the catalog on the official website of Schneider. There is no need to remove the resistor, it doesn’t matter what signal is digital or analog, it will slightly weaken the useful signal and further weaken the harmful standing reflected waves. This is useful for analog reception, but for digital it makes no difference at all. The resistor will only interfere if the antenna receives power from the receiver output.

Hello!
I'm doing renovations in my apartment. The house is an apartment building, an antenna wire is connected to the apartment. How the signal gets into it and which one (digital or analog) is currently impossible to find out. Next (in the apartment) there is a splitter for three TVs and from the splitter there are three separate television wires. As I understand the star connection. I'm racking my brains about which sockets to install: single (simple) or terminal sockets? The doubts are as follows:
1. I’m not sure that all TVs will be connected at once. But, the fact that after a while everyone will be connected is for sure.
2. I read that with a digital signal only simple sockets are suitable. Now it is planned to switch over television broadcasting to digital. This is where the question arose.

Have you already decided on the series and manufacturer?

In terms of manufacturer Schneider or Legrand. I haven't decided on the series yet. My main question is: regular (simple) or terminal sockets. My wife has a corresponding question about color, but that’s a separate matter. On my part, I need to choose the right one technically. Let me repeat that we are talking about a television antenna installed in the apartment, and then around the apartment there is a star circuit (splitter for 3 TVs and three separate wires to each socket).

According to Schneider, I can enlighten you.
1) Single sockets are only available in Unika, and if you choose this particular series, then it is better to buy these sockets in your case, since you will not have pass-through sockets.
2) In the remaining series of Schneider there are only final ones. Therefore, if you choose other series, then take terminal sockets, since you will not have pass-through sockets.
3) I don’t know about Legrand, I’m used to Schneider, Google the catalogs yourself. But the idea is the same. In some series there are only and final ones, in some there are only final ones.
4) I have never seen “ordinary (simple)” sockets in catalogs))). Apparently there is something with the terminalology...

Thanks for the answer.
Yes, I meant single socket.
And if you don’t get attached to the manufacturer, but according to the technology of the case.

1. Connection diagram for star sockets. Splitter for three sockets. Single sockets. If two TVs are currently connected. The TV will temporarily not be connected to one outlet. Are all single sockets too?
They simply write, including in your article, that if TVs are not connected to all sockets, then there may be interference on other TVs.

2. Is it possible to connect two sockets to one of the splitter outputs using a feed-through circuit? If so, what sockets should I use in this case?

1) When receiving a digital signal, turning off TVs, at least one or two, will not have any effect at all, the main thing is not to turn off the TV you are watching. The consequences can be neglected, this is the advantage of digital reception. There is either a picture there or not, there is no interference, noise, or double image. If the reception is uncertain, the picture may crumble into squares, but this cannot be solved by replacing the socket, it can be solved by selecting an antenna or antenna amplifier.
2) It’s possible. Pass-through sockets are installed in a cable and at the end there is a terminal socket.
I have attached a picture from the catalog for Sedna, I don’t know if the resolution is enough, but maybe it will shed more light.

But what, does RK-75, aka RG-6U, send a “digital signal” to the antenna input, conceived a long time ago??? But how and what does the tuner/channel selector do with it then, please explain? Or does the digital number have a different path to the heart of TV?

I do not understand anything. Why can't you ask a question in Russian?

Yuri, thanks for the answer! Can you post a link to the diagram?
And another question. Do you happen to know whether old TVs (with a picture tube) will generally be able to receive/understand a digital television signal transmitted via cable (not broadcast)? I apologize for the terminology, I’m not very strong in this topic
As I understand it, at the moment watching digital terrestrial television channels on old TVs is possible through a digital set-top box, but what about the situation if via cable?

Yuri, I’ll start again in Russian - if a signal comes to the TV via the antenna input, what number are we talking about? There is only an analog signal; the TV tuner cannot work with others.
If the signal comes into the house/apartment via optics or twisted pair, the TV can work via the AV input or another, if possible, but the antenna input of the TV at this time rests on its laurels.

1) On the official website of Schneider there is a link to the catalog. Everything is written out. Page 69. There is an explanation for Unica, the same for the other series, with the caveat that they do not have single sockets.
2) Question about the signal that pay cable television operators provide? If we are talking about transmitting a signal over a regular antenna coaxial cable (not over twisted pair), then the operator himself decides how to send the signal. Digital or not, it all depends on its headend, on the straightforwardness of the engineers servicing it, and on the budget. Specific information is available on the Internet, but there is no point in filling your head with it. Just find out from the operator in what form he gives you the signal.
3) In theory, to watch digital terrestrial TV, you can connect any TV (even an old black and white KVN with a large lens filled with water), even if it does not have low-frequency audio-video inputs (AV). For this, there are set-top boxes with an RF modulator. This is rare, but nevertheless they exist. In the 90s, for example, Dandy and Sega were connected. Those who had newer TVs connected via AV through a separate input (tulips or SCART). And those who had old ones disconnected the antenna and plugged a high-frequency cable from the set-top box into the antenna input.

I don’t know how deeply you should start reading the match... “Fundamentals of Television” When transmitting an “analog” TV signal to the RTPC, the signal is modulated by analog brightness, color and audio signals. When modulating a “digital” terrestrial signal, everything is much more complicated; the carrier is modulated by a digital signal, which contains information about the image and sound of not even one but several channels (including information about both image and sound, synchronization, time signals, teletext, TV program, and other rubbish). That is, an entire “multiplex” is transmitted over one digital channel. Since a digital signal contains redundant information that helps the receiver then restore a distorted and noisy received signal, its noise immunity is many times better than that of an “analog” one. This is what we are talking about about “digital”. There’s simply no point in going deeper, it’s all on the Internet and in books, and most people aren’t interested.
We do not take optics and twisted pair into consideration, although information sockets are also installed in standard frames and are present in all decent Schneider and Legrand series. If there is a question about them, I’ll tell you about them too. HDMI sockets have also appeared. USB is not only for charging gadgets, but also for transferring information. For example, next to the TV built into a niche, you can install an socket on the wall to connect a flash drive or portable hard drive. Or connect a video camera to an HDMI outlet and view something from it. It is very difficult to find the required connector behind the TV hanging on the wall on a bracket (especially in a niche). First you catch your hand, then the TV jack itself. Therefore, I recommend that when carrying out renovations in an apartment, lay information cables and the necessary sockets. Not only television and LAN network cables, but also the USB and HDMI described above. Maybe something else interesting has come out, look at the latest catalogues. How creepy these tangles of tangled wires look under the TV... If you have the opportunity to hide it all in the hay, don’t miss this opportunity. I recently ordered and installed blind control buttons from the Sedna series, I didn’t like them... for some reason they don’t click on their own.

You are absolutely right, therefore, before choosing the color of sockets for TV, talking about resistance that is incomprehensible to many, you need to know exactly what will flow from there - what the signal source will be, and there are plenty of them. At the same time, think for the future, and not limit yourself only to the good old coaxials, which over time will disappear from the back walls of the TV, it is possible.
And for those TVs that do not have modern connectors, there is a black box with a cable coming from the router, tulips/scarts coming out of it, and for several years now the antenna socket has been overgrown with cobwebs.
And then you’ll have to peel apart the walls/wallpaper and drag in new communications, with obscenities...

Thank you so much for the clarification!
Much has become clear. Despite the availability of information on the Internet, you need to study a lot yourself. Even such a seemingly simple question in choosing sockets requires certain knowledge.