The computer is broken. Your computer is broken: what should you do, repair it or buy a new one? Checking the motherboard battery
Many PC owners encounter various errors and malfunctions in their computer, but cannot determine the cause of the problem. In this article, we will look at the main methods for diagnosing a computer, allowing you to independently identify and fix various problems.
Please note that high-quality diagnostics computer can take the whole day, set aside it in the morning specifically for this, and do not start everything in the late afternoon.
I warn you that I will write in detail as for beginners who have never disassembled a computer, in order to warn about all possible nuances that can lead to problems.
1. Disassembling and cleaning the computerWhen disassembling and cleaning your computer, do not rush, do everything carefully so as not to damage anything. Place components in a pre-prepared safe place.
It is not advisable to start diagnostics before cleaning, since you will not be able to identify the cause of the malfunction if it is caused by clogged contacts or the cooling system. Additionally, diagnostics may fail to complete due to repeated failures.
Unplug the system unit from the outlet at least 15 minutes before cleaning so that the capacitors have time to discharge.
Perform disassembly in the following sequence:
Motherboard, CPU cooler, case fans There is no need to remove it; you can also leave the DVD drive if it works fine.
Carefully blow off the system unit and all components separately with a powerful stream of air from a vacuum cleaner without a dust bag.
Carefully remove the cover from the power supply and blow it out without touching the electrical parts and the board with your hands or metal parts, as there may be voltage in the capacitors!
If your vacuum cleaner does not work on blowing, but only on blowing, then it will be a little more difficult. Clean it well so that it pulls as hard as possible. When cleaning, it is recommended to use a soft bristled brush.
You can also use a soft brush to remove stubborn dust.
Thoroughly clean the processor cooler heatsink, having first examined where and how much it is clogged with dust, as this is one of the common causes of processor overheating and PC crashes.
Also make sure that the cooler mount is not broken, the clamp is not opened and the radiator is securely pressed to the processor.
Be careful when cleaning fans, do not let them spin too much and do not bring the vacuum cleaner attachment close if it does not have a brush, so as not to knock off the blade.
After cleaning, do not rush to put everything back together, but move on to the next steps.
2. Checking the motherboard batteryThe first thing after cleaning, so as not to forget later, I check the battery charge on the motherboard, and at the same time reset the BIOS. In order to pull it out, you need to press the latch with a flat screwdriver in the direction indicated in the photo and it will pop out on its own.
After this, you need to measure its voltage with a multimeter, optimally if it is within 2.5-3 V. The initial battery voltage is 3 V.
If the battery voltage is below 2.5 V, then it is advisable to change it. The voltage of 2 V is critically low and the PC is already starting to fail, which manifests itself in resetting the BIOS settings and stopping at the beginning of the PC boot with a prompt to press F1 or some other key to continue booting.
If you don’t have a multimeter, you can take the battery with you to the store and ask them to check it there, or just buy a replacement battery in advance, it’s standard and very inexpensive.
A clear sign of a dead battery is the date and time on the computer constantly disappearing.
The battery needs to be changed in a timely manner, but if you don’t have a replacement on hand right now, then simply do not disconnect the system unit from the power supply until you change the battery. In this case, the settings should not be lost, but problems may still arise, so do not delay.
Checking the battery good time For full reset BIOS. In this case, not only are they reset BIOS settings, which can be done through the Setup menu, but also the so-called volatile CMOS memory, which stores the parameters of all devices (processor, memory, video card, etc.).
CMOS errors are often the cause of the following problems:
- computer won't turn on
- turns on every other time
- turns on and nothing happens
- turns on and off by itself
I remind you that before resetting the BIOS, the system unit must be unplugged from the outlet, otherwise the CMOS will be powered by the power supply and nothing will work.
For reset BIOS use a screwdriver or other metal object to close the contacts in the battery connector for 10 seconds; this is usually enough to discharge the capacitors and complete cleaning CMOS.
A sign that a reset has occurred will be an erroneous date and time, which will need to be set in the BIOS the next time you boot the computer.
4. Visual inspection of componentsCarefully inspect all capacitors on the motherboard for swelling or leaks, especially in the processor socket area.
Sometimes capacitors swell down instead of up, causing them to tilt as if they were just slightly bent or unevenly soldered.
If any capacitors are swollen, then you need to send the motherboard for repair as soon as possible and ask to resolder all the capacitors, including those located next to the swollen ones.
Also inspect the capacitors and other elements of the power supply; there should be no swelling, drips, or signs of burning.
Inspect the disc contacts for oxidation.
They can be cleaned with an eraser and after that be sure to replace the cable or power adapter that was used to connect this disk, since it is already damaged and most likely caused oxidation.
In general, check all the cables and connectors so that they are clean, have shiny contacts, and are tightly connected to the drives and motherboard. All cables that do not meet these requirements must be replaced.
Check that the wires from the front panel of the case to the motherboard are connected correctly.
It is important that the polarity be observed (plus to plus, minus to minus), since there is a common ground on the front panel and failure to observe the polarity will lead to a short circuit, which is why the computer may behave inappropriately (turn on every other time, turn off itself or reboot) .
Where the plus and minus in the front panel contacts is indicated on the board itself, in the paper manual for it and in electronic version manuals on the manufacturer's website. The contacts of the wires from the front panel also indicate where the plus and minus are. Typically the white wire is the negative wire, and the positive connector may be indicated by a triangle on the plastic connector.
Many even experienced assemblers make a mistake here, so check.
5. Checking the power supplyIf the computer did not turn on at all before cleaning, then do not rush to assemble it; first of all, you need to check the power supply. However, in any case, it won’t hurt to check the power supply; maybe it’s because of it that the computer is crashing.
Check the power supply fully assembled to avoid electric shock, short circuit, or accidental fan failure.
To test the power supply, connect the only green wire in the motherboard connector to any black one. This will signal to the power supply that it is connected to the motherboard, otherwise it will not turn on.
Then plug the power supply into the surge protector and press the button on it. Don't forget that the power supply itself may also have an on/off button.
A spinning fan should be a sign that the power supply is turned on. If the fan does not spin, it may be faulty and needs to be replaced.
In some silent blocks power supply, the fan may not start spinning immediately, but only under load; this is normal and can be checked while operating the PC.
Use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the contacts in the connectors for peripheral devices.
They should be approximately in the following range.
- 12 V (yellow-black) – 11.7-12.5 V
- 5 V (red-black) – 4.7-5.3 V
- 3.3 V (orange-black) – 3.1-3.5 V
If any voltage is missing or greatly exceeds the specified limits, then the power supply is faulty. It is best to replace it with a new one, but if the computer itself is inexpensive, then repairs are allowed; power supplies can be done easily and inexpensively.
The startup of the power supply and normal voltages is a good sign, but in itself does not mean that the power supply is good, since failures can occur due to voltage drops or ripples under load. But this is already determined at subsequent stages of testing.
6. Checking power contactsBe sure to check all electrical contacts from the outlet to the system unit. The socket must be modern (suitable for a European plug), reliable and not loose, with clean elastic contacts. The same requirements apply to the surge protector and the cable from the computer's power supply.
Contact must be reliable, plugs and connectors must not dangle, spark, or be oxidized. Pay close attention to this, since poor contact is often the cause of failure of the system unit, monitor and other peripheral devices.
If you suspect the quality of the socket, surge protector, power cable of the system unit or monitor, then change them as quickly as possible to avoid computer failure. Do not delay or save on this, as repairing a PC or monitor will cost much more.
Also, poor contact is often the cause of PC malfunctions, which are accompanied by sudden shutdown or a reboot with subsequent failures on the hard drive and, as a result, disruption of the operating system.
Failures can also occur due to voltage drops or ripples in the 220 V network, especially in the private sector and remote areas of the city. In this case, failures may occur even when the computer is idle. Try measuring the voltage in the outlet immediately after the computer spontaneously turns off or restarts and watch the readings for a while. This way you can identify long-term drawdowns, from which a linear-interactive UPS with a stabilizer will save you.
7. Assembling and turning on the computerAfter cleaning and inspecting the PC, carefully reassemble it and carefully check that you have connected everything you need. If the computer refused to turn on before cleaning or turned on only once, then it is advisable to connect the components one by one. If there were no such problems, then skip the next section.
7.1. Step-by-step PC assemblyFirst, connect the motherboard power connector and the processor power connector to the motherboard with the processor. Do not insert RAM, video card or connect disks.
Turn on the power to the PC and if everything is fine with the motherboard, the processor cooler fan should spin up. Also, if a beeper is connected to the motherboard, a beep code usually sounds indicating a lack of RAM.
Memory installation
Turn off the computer with a short or (if that doesn’t work) long press of the power button on the system unit and insert one stick of RAM into the colored slot closest to the processor. If all the slots are the same color, then just go to the one closest to the processor.
Make sure that the memory stick is inserted evenly until it stops and that the latches snap into place, otherwise it may be damaged when you turn on the PC.
If the computer starts up with one stick of memory and there is a beeping sound, then a code usually sounds indicating that there is no video card (if there is no integrated graphics). If the beep code indicates problems with the RAM, then try inserting another stick in the same place. If the problem continues or there is no other bracket, then move the bracket to another nearby slot. If there are no sounds, then everything is probably fine, continue further.
Turn off the computer and insert the second memory stick into the slot of the same color. If the motherboard has 4 slots of the same color, then follow the instructions for the motherboard so that the memory is in the slots recommended for dual-channel mode. Then turn it on again and check whether the PC turns on and what sound signals it makes.
If you have 3 or 4 memory sticks, then simply insert them one by one, turning the PC off and on each time. If the computer does not start with a certain stick or produces a memory error code, then this stick is faulty. You can also check the motherboard slots by moving the working strip into different slots.
Some motherboards have a red indicator that lights up in case of memory problems, and sometimes a segment indicator with an error code, the explanation of which is in the motherboard manual.
If the computer starts, then further memory testing occurs at another stage.
Installing a video card
It's time to test the video card by inserting it into the top PCI-E x16 slot (or AGP for older PCs). Don't forget to connect additional power to the video card with the appropriate connectors.
With a video card, the computer should start normally, without sound signals, or with a single sound signal, indicating the normal completion of the self-test.
If the PC does not turn on or emits a video card error code, then it is most likely faulty. But don't rush to conclusions, sometimes you just need to connect a monitor and keyboard.
Connecting a monitor
Turn off the PC and connect the monitor to the video card (or motherboard if there is no video card). Make sure that the connector to the video card and monitor is connected tightly; sometimes tight connectors do not go in all the way, which is the reason for the absence of an image on the screen.
Turn on the monitor and make sure that the correct signal source is selected on it (the connector to which the PC is connected, if there are several of them).
Turn on the computer and a graphical splash screen and text messages from the motherboard should appear on the screen. Usually this is a prompt to enter the BIOS using the F1 key, a message about the absence of a keyboard or boot devices, this is normal.
If the computer silently turns on, but there is nothing on the screen, there is most likely something wrong with the video card or monitor. The video card can only be checked by moving it to a working computer. The monitor can be connected to another work PC or device (laptop, player, tuner, etc.). Don't forget to select the desired signal source in the monitor settings.
Connecting a keyboard and mouse
If everything is fine with the video card and monitor, then move on. Connect the keyboard first, then the mouse, one at a time, turning the PC off and on each time. If the computer freezes after connecting a keyboard or mouse, it means they need to be replaced - it happens!
Connecting drives
If the computer starts with a keyboard and mouse, then we begin to connect the hard drives one by one. First, connect the second drive without the operating system (if you have one).
Do not forget that in addition to connecting the interface cable to the motherboard, you also need to connect the connector from the power supply to the drive.
Then turn on the computer and if it comes to BIOS messages, then everything is fine. If the PC does not turn on, freezes or turns itself off, then the controller of this disk is faulty and needs to be replaced or repaired to save the data.
Turn off the computer and connect the DVD drive (if any) with an interface cable and power supply. If problems arise after this, then the drive has a power failure and needs to be replaced; repairing it usually makes no sense.
At the end, we connect the main system drive and prepare to enter the BIOS for initial setup before starting the operating system. We turn on the computer and if everything is fine, move on to the next step.
When you turn on your computer for the first time, go to the BIOS. Usually, the Delete key is used for this, less often others (F1, F2, F10 or Esc), which is indicated in the prompts at the beginning of the boot.
On the first tab, set the date and time, and on the "Boot" tab, select first boot device your hard drive with the operating system.
On older motherboards with a classic BIOS it may look like this.
On more modern ones graphical shell UEFI is a little different, but the idea is the same.
To exit the BIOS and save the settings, press F10. Don't be distracted and watch the operating system load completely to notice possible problems.
After the PC has finished booting, check whether the fans of the processor cooler, power supply and video card are working, otherwise there is no point in further testing.
Some modern video cards may not turn on the fans until a certain temperature of the video chip is reached.
If any of the case fans does not work, then it’s not a big deal, just plan to replace it in the near future, don’t be distracted by it now.
8. Error analysisThis is where diagnostics essentially begin, and everything described above was just preparation, after which many problems could go away and without it there was no point in starting testing.
8.1. Enabling Memory DumpsIf blue screens of death (BSOD) appear while your computer is running, this can make troubleshooting much easier. A prerequisite for this is the presence of memory dumps (or at least self-written error codes).
To check or enable the dump recording function, press the “Win + R” key combination on your keyboard, enter “sysdm.cpl” in the line that appears and press OK or Enter.
In the window that appears, go to the “Advanced” tab and in the “Boot and Recovery” section, click the “Options” button.
The “Record debugging information” field should be “Small memory dump”.
If so, then you should already have dumps of previous errors in the "C:\Windows\Minidump" folder.
If this option was not enabled, then dumps were not saved, enable it at least now to be able to analyze errors if they recur.
Memory dumps may not be created in time during serious failures that involve rebooting or shutting down the PC. Also, some system cleaning utilities and antivirus programs can remove them; you must disable the system cleaning function during diagnostics.
If the dumps are in specified folder is, then we move on to their analysis.
8.2. Memory dump analysisTo analyze memory dumps in order to identify what leads to failures, there is a wonderful utility “BlueScreenView”, which you can download along with other diagnostic utilities in the “” section.
This utility shows files in which a failure occurred. These files belong to operating system, device drivers or any program. Accordingly, based on the file’s ownership, you can determine which device or software caused the failure.
If you cannot boot your computer into normal mode, then try booting into a safe mode by holding down the “F8” key immediately after the motherboard’s graphical splash screen or BIOS text messages disappear.
Go through the dumps and see which files appear most often as the culprits of the failure, they are highlighted in red. Click right click mouse over one of these files and view its Properties.
In our case, it is easy to determine that the file belongs to the nVidia video card driver and most of the errors were caused by it.
In addition, some dumps contained the “dxgkrnl.sys” file, even from the name of which it is clear that it refers to DirectX, which is directly related to 3D graphics. This means that it is most likely that the video card is to blame for the failure, which should be subjected to thorough testing, which we will also consider.
In the same way, you can determine that the fault is caused by a sound card, network card, hard drive, or some program that penetrates deeply into the system, such as an antivirus. For example, if a disk fails, the controller driver will crash.
If you cannot determine which driver or program a particular file belongs to, then look for this information on the Internet by the file name.
If failures occur in the sound card driver, then most likely it is faulty. If it is integrated, then you can disable it through the BIOS and install another discrete one. The same can be said about the network card. However, network failures can be caused by updating the network card driver and connecting to the Internet through a router.
In any case, do not make hasty conclusions until the diagnostics are completely completed; maybe your Windows is simply faulty or a virus has entered, which can be solved by reinstalling the system.
Also in the BlueScreenView utility you can see the error codes and inscriptions that were on the blue screen. To do this, go to the “Options” menu and select the view “ Blue Screen in XP Style" or press the "F8" key.
After that, switching between errors, you will see how they looked on the blue screen.
By the error code you can also find the possible cause of the problem on the Internet, but by the ownership of the files this is easier and more reliable. To return to the previous view, you can use the “F6” key.
If errors always appear different files and various error codes, then this is a sign possible problems with RAM in which everything crashes. We will diagnose it first.
9. Testing RAMEven if you think that the problem is not in the RAM, still check it first. Sometimes a place has several problems, and if the RAM fails, then diagnosing everything else is quite difficult due to frequent PC failures.
Running a memory test from a boot disk is prerequisite, since it is difficult to get accurate results in the Windows operating system on a faulty PC.
In addition, “Hiren’s BootCD” contains several alternative memory tests in case “Memtest 86+” does not start and many more useful utilities for test hard drives, video memory, etc.
You can download the “Hiren’s BootCD” image in the same place as everything else – in the “” section. If you do not know how to properly burn such an image to CD or DVD disc, refer to the article where we looked at, here everything is done exactly the same.
Set the BIOS to boot from the DVD drive or use the Boot Menu as described in, boot from Hiren's BootCD and run Memtest 86+.
Testing can last from 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the speed and amount of RAM. One full pass must be completed and the test will go around the second round. If everything is fine with the memory, then after the first pass (Pass 1) there should be no errors (Errors 0).
After this, testing can be interrupted using the “Esc” key and the computer will reboot.
If there were errors, you will have to test each strip separately, removing all the others to determine which one is broken.
If the broken bar is still under warranty, then take a photo from the screen using a camera or smartphone and present it to the warranty department of the store or service center (although in most cases this is not necessary).
In any case, it is not advisable to use a PC with broken memory and carry out further diagnostics before replacing it, since various incomprehensible errors will appear.
10. Preparation for component testsEverything else, except RAM, is tested under Windows. Therefore, in order to exclude the influence of the operating system on the test results, it is advisable to do, if necessary, temporarily and the most.
If this is difficult for you or you don’t have time, then you can try testing for old system. But, if failures occur due to problems in the operating system, some driver, program, virus, antivirus (i.e. in the software part), then testing the hardware will not help determine this and you may go down the wrong path. And on a clean system, you will have the opportunity to see how the computer behaves and completely eliminate the influence of the software component.
Personally, I always do everything as expected from start to finish as described in this article. Yes, it takes a whole day, but if you ignore my advice, you can struggle for weeks without identifying the cause of the problem.
The fastest and easiest way is to test the processor, unless of course there are obvious signs that the problem is in the video card, which we will discuss below.
If your computer starts to slow down some time after turning it on, freezes when watching videos or playing games, suddenly reboots or turns off under load, then there is a possibility of the processor overheating. In fact, this is one of the most common causes of such problems.
At the cleaning and visual inspection stage, you should have made sure that the processor cooler is not clogged with dust, its fan is spinning, and the radiator is securely pressed against the processor. I also hope that you did not remove it when cleaning, as this requires replacing the thermal paste, which I will talk about later.
We will use “CPU-Z” for a stress test with warming up the processor, and “HWiNFO” to monitor its temperature. Although, it is better to use the proprietary motherboard utility for temperature monitoring, it is more accurate. For example, ASUS has “PC Probe”.
To begin with, it would be a good idea to find out the maximum allowable thermal envelope of your processor (T CASE). For example, for my Core i7-6700K it is 64 °C.
You can find out by going to the manufacturer’s website from an Internet search. This is the critical temperature in the heat spreader (under the processor cover), the maximum allowed by the manufacturer. Do not confuse this with core temperature, which is usually higher and is also displayed in some utilities. Therefore, we will focus not on the temperature of the cores according to the processor sensors, but on the overall temperature of the processor according to the readings of the motherboard.
In practice, for most older processors, the critical temperature above which failures begin is 60 °C. The most modern processors can operate at 70 °C, which is also critical for them. You can find out the actual stable temperature of your processor from tests on the Internet.
So, we launch both utilities – “CPU-Z” and “HWiNFO”, find the processor temperature sensor (CPU) in the motherboard indicators, run the test in “CPU-Z” with the “Stress CPU” button and observe the temperature.
If after 10-15 minutes of the test the temperature is 2-3 degrees below the critical temperature for your processor, then there is nothing to worry about. But, if there were failures during high load, then it’s better to run this test for 30-60 minutes. If your PC freezes or reboots during testing, you should consider improving cooling.
Please note that a lot also depends on the temperature in the room; it is possible that in cooler conditions the problem will not appear, but in hotter conditions it will immediately make itself felt. So you always need cooling with a reserve.
If your CPU is overheating, check if your cooler is compatible. If not, then you need to change it; no tricks will help here. If the cooler is powerful enough, but can’t handle it a little, then you should change the thermal paste to a more effective one; at the same time, the cooler itself may be installed more successfully.
Among inexpensive but very good thermal pastes, I can recommend Artic MX-4.
It must be applied in a thin layer, having first removed the old paste with dry material and then with cotton wool soaked in alcohol.
Replacing thermal paste will give you a gain of 3-5 °C; if this is not enough, then simply install additional case fans, at least the most inexpensive ones.
14. Disk testingThis is the longest step after the RAM test, so I prefer to leave it for last. To begin with, you can conduct a speed test of all drives using the “HDTune” utility, for which I give “”. This sometimes helps to identify freezes when accessing the disk, which indicates problems with it.
Look at the SMART parameters, where the “disk health” is displayed, there should be no red lines and the overall disk status should be “OK”.
You can download a list of the main SMART parameters and what they are responsible for in the “” section.
A full surface test can be performed using the same Windows utilities. The process may take 2-4 hours depending on the size and speed of the disk (about 1 hour for every 500 MB). Upon completion of the test, there should not be a single broken block, which are highlighted in red.
The presence of such a block is an unequivocal death sentence for the disk and is a 100% guaranteed case. Save your data faster and change the disk, just don’t tell the service that you dropped your laptop
You can check the surface of both regular hard drives (HDD) and solid state drives(SSD). The latter really don’t have any surface, but if the HDD or SSD drive will freeze every time during the test, which means that the electronics are most likely faulty - it needs to be replaced or repaired (the latter is unlikely).
If you are unable to diagnose a disk under Windows, the computer crashes or freezes, then try doing this using the MHDD utility from the Hiren’s BootCD boot disk.
Problems with the controller (electronics) and the disk surface lead to error windows in the operating system, short-term and complete freezes of the computer. Typically these are messages about the inability to read a particular file and memory access errors.
Such errors can be mistaken for problems with the RAM, while the disk may well be to blame. Before you panic, try updating the disk controller driver or, conversely, returning the original one Windows driver as described in .
15. Testing the optical driveTo check an optical drive, it is usually enough to simply burn a verification disc. For example, using the “Astroburn” program, it is in the “” section.
After burning a disc with a message about successful verification, try copying its entire contents on another computer. If the disk is readable and the drive reads other disks (except for hard-to-read ones), then everything is fine.
Some of the problems I have encountered with the drive include electronics failures that completely freeze or prevent the computer from turning on, failures of the retractable mechanism, contamination of the laser head lens, and damage to the head as a result of improper cleaning. In most cases, everything is solved by replacing the drive; fortunately, they are inexpensive and even if they have not been used for several years, they die from dust.
16. Body checkThe case also sometimes breaks, sometimes the button gets stuck, sometimes the wiring from the front panel falls off, sometimes it shorts out in the USB connector. All this can lead to unpredictable behavior of the PC and can be solved by thorough inspection, cleaning, a tester, a soldering iron and other available means.
The main thing is that nothing short-circuits, as evidenced by a non-working light bulb or connector. If in doubt, disconnect all wires from the front panel of the case and try working on the computer for a while.
17. Checking the motherboardOften, checking a motherboard comes down to checking all components. If all components individually work normally and pass tests, the operating system is reinstalled, but the computer still crashes, the problem may be with the motherboard. And here I can’t help you; only an experienced electronics engineer can diagnose it and identify a problem with the chipset or processor socket.
The exception is the crash of a sound or network card, which can be solved by disabling them in the BIOS and installing separate expansion cards. You can resolder the capacitors in the motherboard, but, say, replacing the north bridge is usually not advisable, since it is expensive and there are no guarantees; it is better to immediately buy a new motherboard.
18. If all else failsOf course, it’s always better to discover the problem yourself and determine the best solution, since some unscrupulous repairmen try to pull the wool over your eyes and rip off your skin.
But it may happen that you follow all the recommendations, but cannot identify the problem, this has happened to me. In this case, the problem is most often in the motherboard or in the power supply; there may be a microcrack in the PCB and it makes itself felt from time to time.
In this case, there is nothing you can do, take the entire system unit to a more or less well-established computer company. There is no need to carry components in parts if you are not sure what is wrong, the issue will never be resolved. Let them sort it out, especially if the computer is still under warranty.
Computer store specialists usually don’t worry, they have a lot of different components, they just change something and see if the problem goes away, thus quickly and easily fixing the problem. They also have enough time to conduct tests.
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If your computer is broken, then do not worry or be nervous. There is a surefire way to fix this. You can use our services to call a technician who will come to you and repair everything.
There are 5 main signs that usually indicate the cause of a desktop computer failure. To determine what exactly has failed in the system unit, you need to familiarize yourself with the following examples and situations:
What to do if your computer breaks downIf the computer does not turn on at all. That is, when you press the power button on the computer, none of the lights light up. More often than not, users in this situation get the impression that the computer is simply not connected to the mains.
If you encounter this, it means that one of the components in the system unit has failed, namely the power supply or motherboard. If the power supply burns out, then the cause of the computer breakdown is the lack of voltage supply; if it is a motherboard, then the cause of the breakdown may be the failure of the north or south bridge. It happens that the button on the processor itself is to blame; it does not reach the contacts, and therefore cannot perform the connection function, but such cases are 1 out of 1000.
If you press the power button and the system unit starts to hum, but no image appears on the screen, the screen remains black and the message “No signal” appears, the video card may be faulty or has failed RAM, in addition to this, the motherboard or power supply may also burn out. It is possible that the monitor itself burned out, but this is extremely rare.
How to determine why a computer burned out?If there is no signal on the monitor, you need to call a specialist, he will come and conduct a hardware diagnostic of your computer in order to determine exactly what is the cause of the breakdown, otherwise you can simply make a mistake and buy the wrong spare part, after which the computer will not start working.
As a rule, one of the components in a computer breaks down; after replacing it, the PC works like new again. If your computer is broken, we can repair it today! Just order a master!
If the computer turns on and boots, but freezes during a certain period of loading, and freezes in such a way that it does not respond to mouse and keyboard signals. This means that one of the components is stuck on testing or interrupting the frequency. Here, accordingly, it is necessary to do testing to determine the exact cause of the malfunction.
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To do this, a specialist arrives with special equipment and performs diagnostics. It loads the computer with different processors to determine which of them the freeze occurred on.
There is white text on the screen on a blue background, has your computer burned out?This case is more often called the “Blue Screen of Death”. There may be several reasons for this: either the operating system has failed, or there are problems with hard drive. But it could also be either the RAM or the motherboard. In any case, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics to identify the root cause of this malfunction.
If your computer turns on, but instead of loading, the message “System error” appears on the screen (that is, “Download location not found”), there may be either a failure of the operating system, or the hard drive or motherboard has failed.
In any case, with all the above signs of a computer breakdown, our specialist will come and repair everything at your home. There is no need to pick up your computer. If any of the components fails, our specialist will bring a new component from our warehouse, then unpack it before your eyes and install it in your system unit, then he will show how your computer works after repair, so that you can be sure that the repairs were carried out efficiently and correctly!
When such a situation occurs, the first thing you ask is what to do if your computer breaks down. The most important thing is not to panic and call us as quickly as possible. We'll fix everything.
If your computer breaks down, don't put it off long box, you will still have to repair it sooner or later. Better contact us now to have your computer repaired by our qualified technicians.
The road to Hell, as we know, is paved with good intentions. Below are the intentions with which the road to Hell is paved for the average user.
So,
11 ways to kill a system or what not to do to avoid troubleWhat is a computer? Just a set of “hardware”, which means, theoretically, the device should be, if not eternal, then at least, “long-lasting”... This thought has probably visited many more than once... However, everyone who has at least once had experience communicating with this set of “pieces of hardware” knows that this tempting thought, unfortunately, has nothing to do with reality... Computers are immortal. Against. They break. Sometimes the breakdown can be fixed. Sometimes, unfortunately, not.
The reality is that the cause of most problems is the carelessness of users, their reluctance to spend an extra few minutes reading the desired section operating instructions, and often a banal disregard for known rules. Add to this the likelihood of component defects during production and you will understand why, contrary to theoretical possibility, the vast majority of systems rarely manage to survive 10 years without serious breakdown. In principle, these statistics would not be worth paying attention to. After all, the average duration of the so-called “technical resource” of the system, i.e. the period during which the computer is able to provide a comfortable speed of operation with modern software, much shorter, maximum 5 years. However, the point is that careless handling can seriously shorten even this rather short service life of the system. This is not an exaggeration. The reality is that among those who have managed to change several computers in their lives, most have at least once encountered an unexpected fatal breakdown of a system that was far from reaching its end of life.
Not long ago, the staff of the PCstats Newsletter website asked their readers a question: “Have you ever encountered what you thought was an unexpected and, unfortunately, fatal system breakdown?” In response, they received a lot of stories, after analyzing which they came to the following conclusions.
The most common causes of fatal failure are:
- Power supplies (26%)
- Defective components and neglect of compatibility issues on the part of the user (23%)
- Incorrect assembly (15%)
- Components responsible for normal system cooling (13%)
- Lightning or static electricity (10%)
- USB device failure during connection (6%)
- User inattention (3%)
- Overclocking attempts (2%)
The device, denoted by two short words, has serious destructive potential. According to statistics, the vast majority of PC breakdowns that end in the “death of the patient” are caused by faulty power supplies. The classic “case history” looks like this.
“... the client brought the computer with the words: “it won’t turn on.” Of course, suspicion fell on faulty unit food, but it was necessary to make sure of this. After connecting the computer to the network, I pressed the power button. A bright flash followed. The power supply burned out, simultaneously damaging the MOSFET and burning the 512 MB PC3200 RAM strip... "
The fact that the power supply is the most potentially dangerous element should not surprise anyone. In the end, it is this “box” that is responsible for transforming the incoming alternating current voltage 220 VDC with voltage 12-, 5- and 3.3-Volts, necessary components modern PCs.
A power supply failure is usually accompanied by random pulses passing through all system components. As a result, some of them are also permanently disabled.
"... when I turned on the computer, there was a sound like a firework explosion and smoke came out of the system unit in clouds..."
It should be noted that among other components, the failure of which can provoke a fatal breakdown of the system, power supplies in the event of a breakdown represent greatest danger for you and your home, since often the breakdown of this component is accompanied by sparks and even local fire.
What can I do to reduce the risk of power supply failure? The answer lies in just two words: "Brand Name". The best way to reduce the risk of power supply failure is to purchase a power supply from manufacturers who specialize in producing this particular product. Of course, this method is not a 100% guarantee of the safety of your system, but you can significantly reduce the risk of power supply failure.
We can recommend blocks AcBel power supply, Chieftec, Inwin, FSP, Hiper, CoolerMaster, Delta. Of course, Brand Name power supplies are more expensive than No Name, but the difference in price is, in essence, a payment for safety.
Also, in order to reduce the risk of power supply failure, you should not keep the system unit on the floor, much less in dusty places. After all, the accumulation of dust inside the power supply increases the likelihood of its failure and, most unpleasantly, the likelihood of a fire at the time of failure.
In conclusion, I would like to note that low-quality power supplies can be damaged due to frequent interruptions or unstable power supply. In this case, if you do not plan to change the power supply in the near future, it is advisable to at least take care of purchasing an uninterruptible power supply system (UPS) or a voltage stabilizer.
2. CPU cooling"...an overheating processor emits a disgusting smell..." Modern processors differ exclusively high level heat generation during operation. That is why they vitally need these huge aluminum and copper radiators, sometimes included in the package, sometimes simply recommended for purchase by manufacturers. Most quick way kill the processor - deprive it of the necessary cooling. Some processors are able to survive without proper cooling by automatically "resetting" clock frequency, but objectively, there is no guarantee that this will be enough to save your processor. Some outdated models, such as the series AMD Athlon and Athlon XP+, without proper cooling, will “cook” in a matter of seconds.
"... I fried the processor. AMD Duron 950. I tested the motherboard. Guided by a banal desire to do everything faster, I did not fix the heatsink on the processor. I just “put” it on top. I thought that in the case of Duron I have a little time About 5 seconds passed (or so it seemed to me) before I realized that the board would no longer start and I felt this strange, peculiar smell...”
Of course, most of you, after reading an excerpt from this letter, will say something like: “Of course, anything can happen, but I’m not stupid enough to turn on the system without a heatsink installed on the processor...” Perhaps this is true. However, no one is immune from an accidental fan breakdown, from accidentally pressing too hard during its installation and damaging a brand new $700 chip, from having done everything correctly and at the last moment forgetting to turn on the fan’s power, or from other similar accidents. There are quite a few ways to kill the system without paying due attention to the device responsible for cooling the processor.
What can you do to reduce the risk of getting into the situations listed above? First of all, be extremely careful. When installing the heatsink on the processor, strictly follow the instructions in the instruction manual. Don't forget to apply the required layer of thermal paste or remove the protective cap from the heatsink if this layer has already been applied to its surface. Before fixing the heatsink, make sure that it is in the correct position and is adjacent to the processor core without distortion. Don't forget to connect the fan power, making sure that you have chosen the correct connector on the motherboard and have not reversed the polarity.
When installing the heatsink and fan on the processor, remain careful. Remember that an increase in system noise and grinding noise may be signs of a “dying” CPU cooling system, and in this case, it is advisable to seek advice from specialists without waiting for resolution.
3. Fury of ZeusSurprising but true. Cases of lightning damage account for 10% of all causes leading to fatal system failure.
"...It was a rainy day, lightning flashed on the horizon. Then there was a power surge and my modem caught fire..."
Lightning strikes typically cause severe voltage surges in telephone and power lines. This is not dangerous when lightning strikes a power line or telephone line at a great distance from the building into which these lines are laid. However, the shorter the distance to the nearest building, the higher the risk of damage to the electrical equipment located in it.
"... my xBox, my DSL modem, network hub and all the network adapters in the house “died” as a result of lightning hitting the telephone line. First the modem burned out, then the hub, and after it all the network adapters and my xBox...”
As a rule, modems and other devices connected to telephone lines are most vulnerable during a thunderstorm. Other PC components connected to more securely shielded power lines have a higher chance of survival. Of course, a modem built into the motherboard does not bode well.
What should I do to avoid this? Remember how your mother taught you as a child? "There's a thunderstorm outside. Turn off the TV..." She was absolutely right. On a rainy day, staying at home and watching lightning flashing near your area, turn off your computer, disconnect it from the network, and your modem from the telephone line. If you're really bored, take a look better TV. Ultimately, it will be easier to replace.
If thunderstorms are frequent guests in your region, buy a high-quality uninterruptible power supply system (UPS), which, among other things, has a filter for power surges in network and telephone lines. This will allow you to significantly reduce the risk of your system failing due to lightning striking a telephone line or power line.
4. Incompatible or faulty components = dead system"My friend killed the system. The reason was a faulty power supply. I advised him to test the memory in another system. Do you know how it ended? Another killed system. I thought that he was simply not attentive enough. I scolded him and took his memory home, to test it on my PC. Can you guess what the end of the story was? I killed my system..."
The development of technology and the appearance of new components on the market inevitably gives rise to incompatibility problems. Newer devices may not be compatible with previous generations of devices and this may cause serious damage.
How to avoid this? Be careful and don't be lazy. Of course, new components can also turn out to be faulty due to a banal manufacturing defect, but if you are installing a used device into your system, take a little time to find out in a safe way for your PC whether it works or not, and whether it is compatible with other components of your system or not.
If the power supply in your system has failed and you need to check which components have survived, don’t be lazy. Before installing them on another system, spend a little time researching compatibility issues. If you do not have a system at your disposal on which you could test the components you are interested in with 100% confidence in their compatibility with the components of the stand, seek help from specialists, for example, the store where you purchased these components.
5. Neglecting basic rules can lead to unpleasant consequencesUnfortunately, many of us often neglect the operating rules, which every self-respecting manufacturer spends several pages listing in each instruction included in the delivery package of each device it produces.
“One day, after assembling another PC, I discovered that my second Slave disk was “missing” in the system. The correct position was selected for each jumper, but the disk was nevertheless “not there” in the system. Having checked everything, I discovered that the disk The power cable was not connected, and I tried to connect it without turning off the computer. I think you can guess how it all ended..."
The vast majority of users are well aware that they should not touch anything in the system, much less try to make any changes, without first turning off the power. Nevertheless, there are systematically those who do just that.
"One day, I needed to connect a hard drive. The computer was already turned on, and I thought that shutting down would take a very long time. Unfortunately, the Molex connector on the hard drive was upside down and when I tried to connect it, I did not have enough precision. Sparks flew... Out of surprise, I dropped the disk on a brand new video card. Of course, it died, like the disk itself..."
How to avoid this? No need to pretend to be idiots. We are all smart, sensible people. We all know how to read. Read the manufacturer's recommendations and follow them. If you need to make any changes to the system, start by turning off the power. That's what the big beautiful one is for Power button on the front panel of your system unit. And it doesn’t matter if someone, even a consultant in a large specialized store, tells you that floppy drives are “hot-swappable”. No need to test this in practice! Need to replace your floppy drive? Turn off the power! And then complete all the necessary steps.
6. USB device failure at the time of connection"...I connected one of my USB flash drives to copy data to the hard drive, and the computer just turned off...As a result, the processor and all optical drives died. As for the USB flash drive, I still did not dare to connect it to another system to check for functionality..."
In the list of causes of breakdowns that have the most catastrophic consequences for the system, failures of USB devices at the time of connection and short circuits occupy a modest sixth place. The main characteristic of such incidents is their random nature. The device can work flawlessly for many months or even several years, and suddenly fail during the next regular connection.
The USB interface deals with higher currents than most other I/O interfaces. This is why a short circuit has catastrophic consequences for the entire system if there are no fuses on the motherboard. Another possible reason The failure of USB devices may be due to the fact that they undergo a connection/disconnection procedure much more often than other devices, which increases the likelihood of contact wear and, accordingly, the risk of failure at the time of the next connection.
How to avoid this? There is probably no effective way to reduce the risk of a USB device failing at the moment of connection. Unless you don’t use USB devices at all. However, we, of course, cannot give such a recommendation.
According to statistics, the largest percentage devices connected to the USB connectors on the front panel of the case. Perhaps this data will make you re-evaluate the feasibility of using such USB ports.
If the need to connect/disconnect USB devices occurs quite often, we can recommend purchasing a USB hub or at least using an extension cable.
7. Problems with power supplyA large percentage of all fatal system failures are caused by a variety of power supply problems. Frequent power surges, sudden temporary power outages, forced constant or regularly repeated operation of equipment at low voltage, as well as damage to power cables can shorten the life of your PC.
"One day, somewhere in the house there was a short circuit. The only place in the house with grounding was... Can you guess?... Yes! My computer! Mom smelled burning, and, looking into my room, saw puffs of smoke and flames escaping from -under the housing covers..."
Objectively, all the problems listed in this section could be included in the section devoted to cases of power supply failure. However, we have highlighted these issues in a separate section to highlight that regular power outages or failures can be just as dangerous as a faulty or poor-quality power supply.
What can you do to avoid getting into such a situation? Every system should have at least a surge filter. Ideally, it would be a good idea to have an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) system that provides output voltage stabilization. The cost of a good UPS usually hovers around $100. If you think this is too much, consider how much it would cost you to replace the entire system.
8. Short circuitIn the vast majority of cases, the cause of a short circuit in the system is incorrect installation one of the components. As a result, usually the metal part is not properly installed device comes into contact with tracks on the motherboard or other electronic components, an electrical discharge occurs between the contacting elements, often leading to devastating consequences.
Also, the cause of a short circuit can be screws “lost” during assembly or small metal objects accidentally falling into the case.
How to avoid this? When assembling the system or replacing or adding any components to the system, before closing the case, make sure that all devices are installed correctly, that thin-insulated cables are clear of the motherboard, and that the case contains there is nothing left over. Remember that if you waste this time, it could be very costly for you in the future. unpleasant consequences.
9. Static electricity dischargeThe troubles that a discharge of static electricity can cause are well known to the vast majority of users. A static discharge may not cause harm to the device on whose surface it is generated, but it can damage other components of the system.
"All I did was sit down and put my hand on the mouse. The discharge of static electricity was an unpleasant surprise. An even more unpleasant surprise was the fact that the keyboard stopped responding to key presses. The mouse also did not show signs of life and, moreover, like me noticed it got very hot. I rebooted the system, but that didn’t help. The keyboard still didn’t work, and the mouse got so hot that it was impossible to touch it..."
Although the discharge of static electricity usually seems insignificant, although unpleasant, to a person, it should be remembered that in the process of this small shock energy is released that can cause serious damage to the extremely sensitive electrical circuits of a desktop PC, accustomed to a carefully calibrated supply voltage, the supply of which is accompanied by effective cooling. Human body has incomparably higher resistance electric current than the average microcircuit. Therefore, touching any component of the system without first “grounding” can result not only in unpleasant physical sensations, but also in quite serious expenses for replacing damaged components.
How to avoid this? Before you begin, touch a grounding source to remove any static electricity you may have accumulated. Antistatic wrist straps are a good solution to the problem, although they are not required components of modern PCs.
In addition, when planning to work with a computer, try not to wear woolen items. No matter how paradoxical it may sound, woolen items can kill your system. And cats... those little walking "furries"... Keep them away from your PCs.
10. TransportationComputers are made up of many components that can be easily damaged during transportation.
"While moving the computer to my friend's house and then back, one of the memory stick latches opened and the stick jumped half out of the slot. The motherboard burned out... The memory, oddly enough, still works..."
Constantly moving your computer from place to place is a sure way to kill the system. CPU heatsinks are becoming larger and heavier, and a similar trend can be seen among GPU cooling systems. These elements place serious stress on the motherboard even when the computer is in one place. In the process of carrying, the load on the motherboard increases significantly.
How to avoid troubles when transporting a computer? If you need to transport your computer, then once at your destination, before connecting the machine to the network, remove the cover of the system unit and check if everything is in order inside. Make sure that expansion cards, memory sticks, heatsinks, and video cards are still firmly secured. By spending a little time and attention on this, you can reduce the risk of system failure.
And besides, try not to drop the computer.
11. OverclockingToday, overclocking has become so commonplace that many have begun to forget that this procedure can have Negative consequences. However, overclocking automatically voids the warranty on the components you used to build your PC, or on the entire computer if you purchased the computer assembled.
The increased voltage that is an integral part of overclocking puts additional stress on the components it affects, inevitably shortening their lifespan.
The probability of failure of overclocked components directly at the moment of overclocking is small, provided, of course, that you do not raise the “bar” too high. However, in the long term, the likelihood of overclocked components dying prematurely is quite high.
How to avoid component failure during overclocking? The only correct answer to this question is “Do not overclock the system. Forget about this possibility and you can avoid many troubles that the slightest mistake can cause when performing this procedure.” However, the vast majority of users are unlikely to follow this recommendation. Therefore, for those who still try to improve the performance of their system through overclocking, we can advise the following. Be patient. Before you start experimenting on your own system, spend a little time studying the experience of others. If you wish, you can find very interesting documents on this issue on the Internet. When overclocking your own system, increase the operating frequencies and voltage gradually. Remember that too sudden a change in one of the characteristics can lead to unpleasant consequences.
Firstly, if a problem occurs with your computer, you need to determine the type of problem itself: perhaps the problem can be solved without wasting any money or precious time.
If errors or “bugs” are observed related to the operation of the operating room (“ blue screen death", other errors related to the BIOS environment, or banner viruses popping up on the desktop), then it is absolutely not necessary to go to a service center or use the warranty.
Often the cause of such problems is viruses or user actions that lead to such errors. The best and 100% working way to solve such problems is to reinstall the OS.
To reinstall the OS, you will need a disk or flash drive with the so-called “setup” of the OS, as well as minimal skills in working on a personal computer.
If neither one nor the other is available, you can turn to the Internet for help: download a “pirated” OS on the network, and then transfer it to a flash drive or disk (if you have another computer). Otherwise, you can turn to a neighbor or friend.
If there is neither a disk with the OS nor a person who has knowledge about the process of reinstalling the system, you must contact the service center of the manufacturer. This, of course, will cost extra money and time. Preventing computer healthIn order to avoid problems with your computer or laptop, you need to perform a set of very simple actions, which will help increase the “shelf life” of the machine.
Common cause malfunction of the computer or complete failure of the hardware is overheating of one or another part. Overheating occurs for two reasons: due to lack of cooling (broken cooler, too much dust, etc.), or due to an unsuccessful attempt to “overclock” the processor, video card or other component of the computer.
Firstly, you should clean your computer every three months: this will reduce the load that occurs naturally due to dust lying on the surface of a particular part.
Thus, the popular “overclocking” of a processor or video card is carried out only experienced specialists, and not by amateur users. To improve the performance of a part, you need to have knowledge of the OS and the PC components themselves.The most common reason for OS failure is that the system is littered with viruses. To prevent the operating system itself from breaking down, you need to do regular global checks hard drive for viruses or, even better, install and activate any antivirus that has a real-time scanning function. Similar program Although it will slow down the system, it will increase the security of your data.
Nothing lasts forever under the moon - even mountains and continents are destroyed, so the fact that fragile computers, often working in inappropriate conditions, do not break down for years can safely be considered a miracle. However, they also break, and at the most unnecessary time. In the event of a breakdown, you can only hope that not the entire computer “dies,” but only a part of it, often one of the components that can be replaced.
The issue of determining whether a computer is broken can be taken beyond the scope of this article, although interested parties can be told how this is done. Whether at home or in a workshop, the process is the same: the computer is disassembled into components, and each of them is tested in a known-good computer. Repairing a faulty component is another matter, and here the home mechanic has almost no chance - he does not have a repair base and the appropriate tools, so at home or on the road, he can only diagnose the fault and replace faulty components. Accordingly, computer repair is reserved only for professionals who really don’t like to work cheaply. This results in most failed components being sent to landfill or recycling, even though there is a very good chance they can be repaired. The answer is simple - it is unprofitable. For example, what is the point of a specialist losing a whole day when he is looking for a burnt-out power supply unit that will cost the client two hundred rubles? And at the same time, a new power supply will cost only 2-3 times more and replacing it is a matter of minutes...
In general, this kind of mathematics has begun to reach customers - if repairs cost more than 30% of the price of a new device, then there is no point in repairing it. And it’s not even a matter of snobbery, there are more serious reasons here: the new device will clearly be more modern and efficient, and there is no hope for a long life of the device after repair. After all, even the most experienced technician will not be able to determine which microcircuit was “on the verge of life” as a result of the accident.
As a result, the repair computer equipment today presents an interesting thing: you can fix anything at home - for home handyman It's a great experience with electronics. If we are talking about a workshop, then almost all computer parts cannot be repaired, or they charge a lot of money for its repair.
- Case and power supply. Broken or burning wires, deformation of the housing and chassis of devices. Only elite power supplies are accepted for repair - from $50 or more.
- Motherboard. There is no point in soldering parts, but they can take on stickers/replacement of radiators, as well as changing batteries, flashing EPROM, cleaning dust, replacing interfaces of expansion boards, capacitors and resistors.
- CPU. Cannot be repaired, only thermal overheating is eliminated.
- Coolers. They can “start it up” with lubricant, but it won’t last long. Better to replace it.
- CD/DVD. They don't fix it.
- Hard disks. There are many repair options, but all of them are aimed only at removing information, and this costs more than the media itself.
- Keyboards and mice. Only to the landfill.
- MFP. They fix, refill, repair with pleasure, since it costs almost the price of a new device. They also repair scanners, printers and photocopiers.
- USB, modems, wireless devices– just a firmware update, nothing more.
- Video cards – replacement of memory, coolers. And this is provided that the cards are expensive. Network cards, for example, the road goes straight to the trash heap.
- Speakers - if they are expensive, but “stereo tweeters” have no chance.
- Monitors – the situation here is ambiguous. If the problem is in the power supply, then they will undertake to fix it, but if the matrix is broken, then you yourself will not want to pay the amount. Better to buy a new one.
Take care of your computer - if it breaks, it can cost your wallet too much.