How to make your computer run silently. How to make a silent computer


This article describes how to make your own water cooling for a computer without using factory components. If you have a problem with noise or want to overclock the processor, then you can follow my solution and make a similar system.

I warn you right away - the goal was silence, and not a beautiful, from an aesthetic point of view, solution.
Photos will not follow the text.

The decision to install SVO on a computer arose as a result of many attempts to make it run a little quieter. In the process of experimenting with noise reduction, I tried a lot of things: lowering the fan speed, cleaning the coolers, covering the case with noise-absorbing materials - each time there was an effect, but it was too insignificant.

As a result of these experiments, the main sources of noise were identified - coolers in the power supply and on the processor.

Changing a processor cooler to a low-noise or almost silent one is not a problem, but with a power supply it is more difficult: all power supplies make noise as they heat up, even very expensive ones. But I had no desire to test the expensive power supply in practice. Even if you replace all the coolers with passive radiators the size of a milk carton, you will still have to blow air through this system (the heat will not escape anywhere from the closed case).

One way to reduce noise is to replace the processor. At the time of the start of manufacturing the CVO, I had a Pentium 4 with a heat dissipation of 130 watts, replacing it with a Core2Duo with a heat dissipation of 65-75 watts, which significantly reduced the heating and, as a result, the cooler speed and its noise. But the decision to create the SVO had already been made and it was time to start.

There was an option to take ready-made components, but their analysis revealed several weak points:
A combination of copper and aluminum is often found in the manufacture of water blocks - and this will lead to corrosion;
Excessive cost of water-cooled power supplies (at that time the price was more than $500), given price questions the project itself;
Kits with one water block for the processor ( ready system) are quite noisy.
As a result, I do everything myself!

Here is a list of what I used:
Sheet copper (0.8 mm, 1 mm, 2 mm, sheets measuring 200*200 mm, it took 2 sheets of each thickness) - 2000 rubles (high price due to the fact that I bought copper in a store for modellers);
Copper tube 10 mm outer diameter (annealed water pipe from the market) - 500 rubles;
Radiator from a Volga stove (its characteristics indicate that it can dissipate up to 16 kW of heat - and this is enough to heat the whole room, and not just cool the computer) - 1000 rubles with delivery;
Pump Laing D5-Pumpe 12V D5-Vario - we don’t skimp on silence! (most expensive separate part- approximately 4000 rubles at the time of purchase);
Hoses with an internal diameter of 9.7 mm - 6 meters and anti-kink springs, all for 1000 rubles (bought in a store for modders and CBO systems);
A pressure gauge from an old tonometer - for a leakage control system - 100 rubles, bought on a hammer;
Car thermometer with external sensor - 400 rubles;
Container for food with a sealed lid -100 rubles;
Coolant – filtered water – free of charge;
Radiator fan - SCYTHE S-Flex SFF21D (maximum noise level 8.7 dB) – 500 rubles.

Tool:
An ordinary hacksaw for metal;
Gas soldering iron (in the form of a can with a nozzle like a turbo lighter, bought in a Chinese online store for 10 bucks);
Electric soldering iron 60 watt;
Solder, flux, clamps and vises, needle files, wire cutters, pliers and all sorts of little things.
The approximate amount of materials and tools is 10,000 rubles at the time of purchase.

The following was produced in the process:
water block for the processor (area 40*40 mm);
water block per chip (35*35 mm) - 2 pieces;
water block on video (35*35 mm);
analogue of a basket for HDD (3 disks);
water block for power supply (100*60 mm);
The expansion tank is made from a food container with a sealed lid.

Water blocks were made according to the following scheme:
the base is copper 2 mm thick, tinned on the inside;
ribs - from 20 to 40 ribs (depending on the water block) measuring 33*10 mm for small water blocks, 38*10 for a processor and 80*10 for a power supply, copper thickness 0.8 mm;
walls - copper 1 mm (according to the dimensions of the base of the water block and a height of 10 mm);
the top cover is 1 mm copper and the size of the base of a water block;
Pipes – water pipes 30-40 mm long.

The ribs for the water blocks were tinned along the edge, and the excess solder (sagging, etc.) was cleaned off with needle files. The prepared ribs were assembled into a block, with a layer of paper (small leaves, 5-10 pieces) placed between the ribs. With this approach, you can assemble a radiator with micro channels in a home kitchen environment. Next, the resulting block of ribs and paper was fastened, or rather soldered at the end, with a thin wire. This wire ensured the integrity of the block and its mobility (unfortunately there are no photographs). After preparing the fin block, the tinned base was taken and placed on a hotplate burner and heated to the melting point of the solder. The resulting block of ribs (lubricated with flux on the bottom side) was lowered onto the base with molten solder. The flux boiled away within a couple of seconds and pulled the solder into place from the base of the water block. The result was a normally soldered water block with a huge area of ​​ribs (40 * 10 mm * 20-40 pieces). After the entire structure had cooled, the mounting wire was removed from it, the paper layers between the ribs were removed, and unnecessary solder deposits were cleaned out. As soon as the base with the ribs was ready, the side ribs and the top cover with already soldered pipes were soldered to it.

The photo shows a processor water block. (1 - water block on the power supply, 2 - processor, 3 - chip on the motherboard)

IN top cover 4 holes were made for the inlet and outlet pipes.
It turns out that the entire system has a series connection of water blocks with paired tubes (this can be seen in the pictures). The tubes between the water blocks are paired due to the fact that the internal cross-section of the pump tubes is larger than the cross-section of the tubes between the water blocks, and in order not to create additional hydraulic resistance, it was decided to use such a scheme. In my case, the internal cross-section of the pump tubes is approximately equal to two internal cross-sections of the tubes used. Serial connection easier because water is guaranteed to bypass the entire cooling circuit. If you do parallel connection water blocks, that is, there is a chance that water will not flow through the tube with greater resistance. Then this part of the circuit will be hotter.

In the photo: partial photo of the motherboard (1 - water block on the power supply, 2 - processor, 3 - chip on the motherboard, 4 - water block for screws)

A paired connection is also convenient in a situation where there is a risk of hoses being bent (and this happened during testing of the system) - as a result, the reliability of the entire system is greatly increased at a slightly increased cost.

The water block for the power supply is made according to the same design, only the dimensions have been increased and fields on the base for installing transistors have been initially added. I thought that I would unsolder the transistors and screw them to the water block, and solder the legs with thick wires. But when disassembling the power supply, I was pleasantly surprised that the 2 radiators from the transistors have a flat base to which the water block can be easily attached. Which is what I did using self-tapping screws and hot glue.

In the photo: fastening the water block for the power supply.

The leakage protection system is built on the principle of reducing the pressure in the system and monitoring through a pressure gauge. At first, the pressure lasted for a week or more, but then it quickly began to equalize with atmospheric pressure. But this is not important: the testing period was long (several months), as a result of which it turned out that the system did not leak.

The photo shows a monitoring system (temperature sensors, pressure gauge and impeller. 1 - temperature in the room, 2 - in the cooling system).

The fluid flow sensor is a homemade impeller made of plastic cut according to in the required form and glued with superglue to a syringe needle. Next, the needle with the impeller was put on top of the sewing needle (forming a freely rotating axis) and placed along the transparent tube. Everything is ready - the water spins the impeller, and we watch.

In the photo: temperature sensors glued into the pipe and an impeller showing liquid flow

Well, we soldered everything, connected it, checked it - it works! All that's left to do is install and go.
I didn’t have much trouble with the fasteners - I just glued them with hot glue. According to the characteristics of the glue, it softens when heated to 70 degrees or more ( we're talking about about re-softening the glue after its initial drying), and this critical temperature for chips and locking, the motherboard will turn off the power before reaching this temperature - so there is no serious risk that the water block will fall off due to softening of the glue.

When gluing water blocks onto chips, a problem arose that the surface area of ​​the chip was too small to hold the water block. To fix the water blocks, I came up with something else: I took hot glue (glue gun) and filled the water blocks around the perimeter (this is clearly visible in the photographs). We can say that after this you can’t wash the motherboard and so on – it doesn’t matter, the motherboard cost 1500 rubles, and its cost has almost no effect on the cost of the project.

In the photo: attaching water blocks using hot-melt adhesive (1 - water block of the video card, 2 - water block of the second chip of the motherboard).

Also, you need to pay attention to the kinks of the hoses - we had to pack all the bends in spirals - protection against kinks.

After assembly and launch, I was shocked - I couldn’t hear the computer at all! More precisely, you can hear the screws working - which was annoying at first. There is no noise from the pump or fans. You can, of course, listen hard by leaning your ear toward the computer. The feeling was not at all familiar: the noise level from the computer was less than the noise from the working screw.

The photo shows the entire system: 1 - power supply, 2 - processor, 3 - chip, 4 - basket with screws, 5 - expansion tank, 6 - pump, 7 - radiator with cooler.

After running the system, I overclocked the processor by 20%, which had almost no effect on the system temperature.

Software monitoring shows that the temperature is high, approximately 50-55 degrees on the processor. This is not low, but not critical. So I don't bother.
The water temperature in the system rarely exceeds 43-45 degrees, this is when the computer is fully loaded for 2-3 hours and the room temperature is 28 degrees.

In general, all this took about six months - I worked slowly, on weekends, in the kitchen and was absolutely satisfied with the result. The system has been working for two years now and makes me happy and surprises my friends.

And lastly, if you want silence, don’t buy aquarium pumps, noisy fans and liquid flow sensors connected to a computer - all this will make the system quite noisy - don’t skimp on silence!

Probably every computer user, sooner or later, has encountered the fact that the computer begins to make noise and operate loudly. There are several ways to make your computer quieter. In this article you will learn why your computer is noisy and how to make your computer quieter.

Why is the computer noisy?

Basic noise sources in computer:

  • Fans (make noise when spinning quickly)
  • Hard drives (cracking during operation)
  • Drives (make a loud noise when they start reading/spinning the disk)

Basic causes, because of which the computer starts to make noise:

  • Overheat
  • Thin case walls
  • Loose computer components
  • Incorrect computer location
  • Usage large quantity no fans big size(less than 80 mm)
  • Wear and tear on computer components

Many of these reasons are directly related to each other (for example, overheating and improper placement of the computer) and generally result in loud noise when the computer is running.

Now that we have determined why the computer is noisy, let's look at how to eliminate these reasons and make quiet computer.

Making your computer quieter

You can make your computer quieter by using programs and actions with hardware components (the parts that make up the computer). In rare cases, it is possible to make a computer quieter without opening the system unit. Now we will look at the main ways and methods by which you can make your computer quieter.

Cleaning your computer from dust

The very first step to take if your computer starts making noise is to clean it of dust. Dust clogs the fans and because of this, the temperature inside the case increases, and the fans start working faster, which causes noise.

To clean your computer from dust, open the case, take a vacuum cleaner and, setting the vacuum cleaner to maximum power, collect dust from all fans (including those on the processor, video card and power supply) and boards. Never touch the components of the system unit with a vacuum cleaner; you may damage them. Keep the vacuum cleaner's wand in close proximity to, but do not touch, computer components.

In addition to a vacuum cleaner, you can use special compressed air cylinders. You will simply use them to blow off dust from computer components. Using air cylinders is more effective than vacuuming the system unit, but you have to pay for these cylinders, although they are not that expensive.

Changing the fan speed

To reduce the noise made by computer fans, you can use the program SpeedFan. With its help, you can change the fan speed, thereby reducing the noise of the computer. The program has an information block that displays the temperature various components computer.

And a block with the fan speed value, which you can change (pwm or speed).

So, let's launch the SpeedFan program. We look at the temperature values. Now you need to run some resource-intensive program. It is best to launch a resource-intensive game and, after playing for 15 minutes, look at and record the temperature values. If you are not a gamer, then you can run a movie in HD quality or some kind of computer performance test. In general, you need to try to give maximum load on computer.

Record the temperature readings under load and change the fan speed one by one. Start with 85%. Make sure that the temperature of the components does not rise due to changes in fan speed, and find the fan speed value at which the computer runs quieter, but the temperature does not rise.

We reduced the speed, played, checked the temperature, if it hasn’t changed, then we can reduce it further, etc.

Replacing thermal paste

Thermal paste is usually applied to the junction between the processor and the cooler. Over time, it can lose its properties, which leads to overheating and increased fan noise. Replace the thermal paste and your computer will run quieter.

Replacing case fans

As a rule, any modern case has fans installed. There should be at least two of them in order to effectively remove heat from the system unit. If the manufacturer has installed small or noisy fans, the system unit will make unnecessary noise. Replace small fans with larger fans with low noise levels (no more than 1200 rpm). It is best to use 120mm fans.

Housing replacement

If you have a case with thin walls, then even if you have quiet fans installed, the noise will still be present. The case will not only transmit noise from the fans, but also vibrate from hard drive. It is better to replace such a case with a more expensive and durable one.

A good thick-walled enclosure will let noise through if the enclosure walls are not screwed down well enough. Check them and tighten the bolts.

Replace the fan with a radiator

You can replace the fan on the processor with a heatsink. This way you will ensure passive cooling and reduce noise. But passive cooling is not suitable for powerful gaming computers. For very powerful computers install water cooling.

Working with a hard drive

Many hard disks When working, they crackle and produce vibration. To reduce vibration, install rubber pads between hard drive and body. Typically, such gaskets are placed on the screws that secure the hard drive to the case.

If the crackling sound in the hard drive appears over time or becomes stronger, then this is one of the indicators that something is wrong with the hard drive. Check state of hard disk. If the hard drive is not in order, then it is better to replace it.

The hard drive can be replaced with an SSD drive, which does not produce any noise at all.

Change your computer's location

The computer should be placed on a level place away from a heat source (battery, heater, etc.). Whatever the case vibrates, you can put rubber pads on the bottom of the case.

Do not place the system unit in closed cabinets or cabinets. This will prevent normal air circulation and the computer will heat up.

Replace drive

If during operation of the drive (when you inserted a disk) it starts to hum like a small factory, then the only way To solve this problem - replace the drive with a quieter one.

If you want to purchase or assemble a new and quiet computer, then pay attention to the following:

  • The body must have thick walls
  • Buy a large case as these cases have better air circulation
  • All fans must be large and low speed rotation
  • Hard drives and drives must be secured to the case via rubber gaskets
  • In the characteristics of the purchased components, pay attention to the level of noise emitted

Conclusion

It is extremely difficult to make a computer absolutely silent, but you can make a computer quieter by using the tips in this article.

While working on a computer, you begin to notice that a dull noise is coming from the system unit, which makes it difficult to concentrate on the task at hand. Fortunately, there are answers to the question: how to make a computer quieter, and now we will look at them. First, let’s look at the source of the problem, what causes the unpleasant noise. The main culprits in this may be the following components of the computer system unit:

  1. Disk drives
  2. HDD or hard drives
  3. Coolers

The causes of noise are trivial problems with the presence of dust in the case, overheating under load, incorrect placement of the system unit, components that are not fully secured or their wear.

The answer to how to make a computer quieter begins with the fact that you definitely need to clean your computer from dust. Remove the side cover of the system unit, turn on the vacuum cleaner and lightly walk through the dusty areas.

One of the most simple options The solution to the problem of how to make a computer quieter is to replace the thermal paste. Thermal paste is used to avoid overheating of devices. Change the thermal paste at the junction between the cooler and the processor, and if this was the problem, the computer will become quieter. When buying a PC, users who do not have experience in choosing components often do not notice that the fans for absorbing cool air and driving warm air are small. Replace them with larger ones.

How to make your computer quieter by improving parts.

You should also pay attention to the walls of the block. If they are thin, feel free to change them to denser options, this way you will get rid of the excess noise of a working PC. Some users, to solve the problem of how to make a computer quieter, suggest replacing the cooler on the processor with a device such as a radiator. This is a way out if your computer has average characteristics. For more powerful machines we suggest using water cooling. It very rarely happens that it fails HDD. If it is damaged, replace it with a new one, or SSD disk, which does not produce noise. If the drive is noisy, we also recommend a replacement method.

To avoid making noise, your computer should be located on a level place, away from a heat source and in an open space. We hope our tips helped you figure out how to make your computer quieter.

In the weekly section “Lifehack of the Week” we bring to your attention simple and quick ways making life easier. This week we're talking about how to make your apartment quiet using improvised means..

Tips of the week - to create silence in the house: quiet windows, silent doors, you may need: self-adhesive rubber seals, travel mat, polystyrene foam, carpet.

The doors slam from the summer draft, the window creaks, and suddenly there is a terrible roar - someone in the apartment has moved a stool to the table. It’s good when there are no upstairs neighbors, no one jumping, no running, no doors slamming and no stools scraping on the floor. But what if you live in a house with several floors, and you are annoyed by the sounds in your own apartment when your family goes out onto the balcony at night or comes up to the table and moves chairs? Or, God forbid, they accidentally close the door too loudly? How to do quiet windows And ?

Use our life hacks for every day, and blissful summer silence will reign in your house.

5 life hacks for creating quiet furniture

Lifehack No. 1 Quiet chairs, stools and armchairs

Glue special soft stickers (felt, felt, plastic, etc.) to the legs of the stools according to size, but if you want to save money and you have an unnecessary camping rug lying around, just cut circles and strips to fit the legs and silence is guaranteed.


Carpet, felt, and thick socks are also suitable.



Plastic wine stoppers fit on some chair legs.


Wax the legs of the chairs.

Lifehack No. 2. Silent doors - how to make door closing quieter

To prevent doors from slamming and closing silently, stick seals around the entire perimeter of the door frame - rubber, or even better, car seals.


It is better not to glue at the bottom of the door frame. We glue a piece of seal to the bottom end of the door itself, and the door will close silently. If you have a travel mat on hand (they are made from isolon - it is an excellent sound insulator), or polystyrene foam - stick it in several places or along the entire perimeter in thin strips.

The easiest option is to purchase self-adhesive rubber door seals. But they are different.


Lifehack No. 3. Quiet windows

Window seal – the best option. Quiet windows can be purchased, but if you have old windows and want to make quiet windows, glue self-adhesive window seals to the base of the frame, or better yet, use car seals.

Lifehack #4. Silence within yourself

If there is no way to get rid of external sounds, create silence within yourself. For example, buy earplugs and use them at night, or create a uniform hum, for example, using a slightly humming fan.

Lifehack #5. Soundproofing a wall in an apartment

A carpet on the wall will slightly reduce noise from the next room. Grandma’s method can be improved and hung multi-colored travel rugs on the wall.

Sooner or later, any user encounters this problem and tries in every way available to him to make the computer quieter. At the same time, he always has a question, why is he buzzing?

Main sources of noise:

  • Coolers create a hum at high speeds.
  • Hard drives at work.
  • DVD drive while reading information from the media.

Causes:

  • Dust.
  • Overheat.
  • Case walls (if they are too thin).
  • Poorly fixed PC components and their wear.
  • Location of processor, laptop.
  • Excessive number of fans.

Much of the above is most directly related to each other, such as the incorrect placement of the PC, which results in overheating. And in the end - a rumble.

It is possible to make it quieter with the help of programs and actions with hardware.

Cleaning your computer from dust

This is perhaps the very first thing you need to do to make your PC quiet. The cooler especially often gets dirty, which causes the temperature inside the system unit to rise and they begin to spin diligently.

You can clean it with cans of compressed air, a vacuum cleaner or a rubber bulb (like a baby enema) without touching the PC components.

Change fan speed

SpeedFan - will help reduce the cooler speed, thereby reducing its noise. After launching the application, while some resource-intensive utility is running, and better game, look and remember the degrees. Constantly change the speed of rotation. Start with 85%. It is also necessary to control the temperature of the components so that it does not increase. And choose for yourself those indicators at which the PC makes less buzz and the temperature does not rise.

You can also replace the fan with a radiator, thereby providing passive cooling. But you need to know that such an action is not acceptable for powerful gaming machines. It is better to install water cooling for them.

Replacing thermal paste

It is applied between the processor and the cooler. Over time, it burns out, which causes the coolers to hum due to overheating.

Housing replacement

As I already wrote at the beginning of the article, the hum can be caused by the thin walls of the system unit. Even with a quiet fan, you will still hear it. And what's more, it will vibrate from work hard disk.

Working with a hard drive

Some hard drives vibrate and make crackling and buzzing noises. I advise you to install a rubber gasket between it and the case; they are usually placed on the screws that secure the HDD.

If the problem is not resolved, then most likely there is something wrong with the device itself. It’s worth checking it with special utilities, and if your fears are confirmed, replace it after saving necessary information. Or use an SDD drive. They are completely silent.

Location

The PC should be kept away from heat and on a flat surface. Preferably with rubber gaskets to avoid vibration.

Like most of my friends, there's no need to hide system units in cabinets and cabinets. This disrupts air circulation, causing heating.

Replacing a DVD drive

If while reading “blanks” a hum and crackling noise begins, you must definitely replace it. But first you should try to clean it of dust and the laser head with a special disk.

1. Choose a larger case - they have better air circulation with thin walls.
2. Fans must be large.
3. Mount the railway with rubber gaskets
4. In the characteristics of iron, pay attention to the level of noise they produce.


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