How to solder wires to a speaker plug. Quick and easy repair of broken headphones at home: instructions and tips

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Portable and stationary headphones known to every user, made in the form of “droplets”, “plugs” or “shells” that completely cover the ears, have one significant drawback. They constantly break off in the most inconvenient place, namely in the area of the 3.5 (6.3) millimeter connector. In this case, the only way to correct the situation is to restore the contact or completely replace the plug itself (minijack). This is completely within the capabilities of any user who has held a soldering iron at least once.

But before you solder the plug to the headphones with 3 wires, you will need to familiarize yourself in detail with internal device this transitional product.

A standard 3.5 mm detachable plug consists of an internal contact part and a plastic protective casing that protects the wires from kinks and damage. It should be distinguished from a similar device of a larger size (the diameter of the working part is 6.3 mm), called a large jack.

The presented design significantly simplifies repair procedures, since soldering the headphone plug in this case comes down to the following simple steps:

first you need to disassemble the “non-working” plug;
then remove the damaged conductors and correctly solder new ones;
Finally, all that remains is to return the plug to its previous form.

The only difficulty that you will have to face when soldering is the need to deal with all the conductors suitable for the contacts (in some cases their number can reach up to 6).

The situation is much more complicated with repairing non-separable plugs, with which you will have to tinker thoroughly. The fact is that in these products the internal contact base is filled with a special plastic compound, which subsequently forms a flexible holder.

In order to solder a mini-jack to a new wiring, you will first need to cut the body of the damaged part and completely remove the mini-jack from the plug itself. Secondly, use some kind of new sheath that reliably protects the plug itself and the wire from breaking.

Preparation for soldering

Regardless of the design of the damaged and disassembled plug product, its working part requires careful preparation before soldering the conductors. To do this, you will need to take the plug remaining after disassembly with a number of contacts for connection and wires soldered to the terminals.

You need to remember or sketch the order of connecting the conductor according to the color of the insulation (the so-called “pinout”).

Another important point- this is a control check of the plug for a break or short circuit internal cores going out to three contacts (common wire - right channel - left channel). In order to make sure that it is working properly, you will need a multimeter turned on in the “Dial” mode.

When checking, each of the 2 contact pads on the tip of the disassembled plug should be connected to the corresponding connecting tap at the other end (there should be zero resistance between them).

The body part of the element is made as a monolith with a special bracket for fixing the base of the conductor in insulation and a platform for soldering the common wire (braid).

Stripping and tinning

After disassembling the plug from the contact pads, you should unsolder the old wires (remembering their wiring first by the color of the insulation). Having disconnected unnecessary wiring, the contacts themselves must be carefully processed and excess solder removed from them.

If the old plug turns out to be faulty, it must be replaced with a new one. In this case, the contact pads should first be sanded, and then a little flux should be dropped on them and tinned with a well-heated soldering iron.

Soldering and assembly

Before soldering and assembling the plug, you should familiarize yourself with the diagram for connecting the wires to the contact pads.

The photo shows the standard headphone wiring, marked by the colors of the lead conductors.

In accordance with it, red and blue vein are soldered to the right and left capsules of the earphone, and the common braid is soldered to the body with an eyelet.

Before soldering the plug to the speakers or headphones (which is practically the same thing), you must remember to put a protective cover on the supply cable.

After soldering is completed, the casing is moved towards the plug and then screwed onto it. It is recommended to check the serviceability of the repaired unit with the same multimeter, which should be used to ring all the restored contacts (including the ground bus).

Special consideration requires the case when the plug, in addition to audio contacts, contains a microphone channel.

Restoring (repairing) a plug with a microphone input

In the modification of headphones with a headset, in addition to audio channels A separate line is provided for transmitting the speech signal from the built-in microphone.

If a plug with an additional microphone contact needs repair, it will have to restore three signal channels and one common channel (the so-called “ground”).

All preparatory operations and soldering itself in this case are similar to the previously described options. The challenge here is to correctly label the pins and wires to match the audio and microphone lines. You can solder them according to the same rules, but taking into account the wiring diagram of additional circuits.

Particular attention should be paid to separating (shielding) the transmission channels of the audio and microphone signals of the headphones.

Otherwise, when transmitting signals, they will begin to influence each other, causing sound distortion and reduced speech intelligibility. When installing conductors, each of the braids is combined into one common core, and then solder it to the body of the plug.

Repair of a non-separable device

A feature of non-separable products is the need to restore their shell after it has been completely destroyed.

In addition, before soldering, you need to prepare a piece of heat-shrinkable tube, first cutting it off from the common coil. This element will protect the soldered wire from sharp bends while using the headphones.

After they are pulled into the supply conductors, the latter are soldered according to the already described scheme. Upon completion of the soldering operations, the plastic nozzle with heat shrink is moved towards the plug and pulled with force onto its base. To obtain a high-quality and durable shell, the heat-shrinkable tube is heated over an open fire (a lighter or matches can be used for this).

It should be noted that for soldering during plug repair, it is advisable to use a soldering iron with a power of no more than 25 watts.

To improve the quality of the resulting connections in the process of restoring contacts, you should use a special flux (rosin, solder fat, etc.) or solder paste.

Not everyone has a soldering iron these days. But almost everyone has headphones, and even more than one. And as everyone knows, any headphones tend to die... And as always, at the wrong time. So today we will get out and you will learn how to fix headphones without a soldering iron. Tools required just a knife, lighter and tape :)

Of course, such a repair can hardly be called ideal. But it is ideal, for example, if you have a long train ride ahead of you, and your headphones suddenly died in the most vile way.

Donor needed

Unfortunately, you won’t be able to solder the headphones without a soldering iron. Of course, if you wish, you can solder with a hot nail. But to do this you already need to know how to solder. Yes, and tin and rosin will still be needed...

The only difficulty that may arise along the way is that you will need a known working AUX cable or connector from other working headphones with a piece of wire.

AUX cable purchase cheaper than headphones, but it does not have a microphone, so if you have a headset, you will have to come to terms with the fact that it will be reduced in powers and lose a microphone and buttons.But how nice it is when headphones that aren’t working start singing, and you can survive the lack of buttons.

AUX cable Now it is sold in any stall and passage for absolutely ridiculous money. It is usually needed to connect your audio device (phone, player...) to a subwoofer or car radio.

Thanks to the Chinese brothers, now there are quite tolerable laces starting from 0.5$. The wire used in the article cost about a dollar. Well, I think every house has a paper knife, a lighter and some scotch tape lying around in closets.

So we scratched the bottom of the barrel, well, in the cabinets, found all the tools, drove them to the stall for ( beer) string, what's next?

First of all, we unceremoniously cut the AUX cable

We cut 5-7 centimeters from the connector, or better yet, even further. You shouldn't cut it shorter because... If you screw it up, there will be no way to fix it later. And it is better when the connection point is located away from the connector.

Now let's remove the rubber braid

Especially for this article, the dumbest knife was found in order to try everything for myself).

It is most convenient to cut the braid exactly as in the photo. You don't need to press the blade too hard. Thanks to bending, the braid itself will diverge. We turn the wire, making cuts and, when we have gone through the circle, remove the braid. The main thing is not to cut through the wiring.

It’s better to expose about 2 centimeters of the wiring, it will be easier and the contact area will be larger. Which will increase reliability.The wiring is covered with varnish that needs to be cleaned off. First there was an attempt to clean the varnish with a knife.

Not the best The best way. The wires are very thin and with such rough mechanical action they come off along with the varnish. The dullness of the knife contributes well to this. In principle, this can be done easily with a sharp knife. But we don’t have a sharp knife, so we’ll uselighter. Well, or at least matches.

Cleaning off the varnish

To strengthen thin copper wires, manufacturers intertwine them with nylon thread. And nylon, as you know, burns well. It is possible, by the way, that the varnish also burns. Therefore, for a split second we bring the end of the wire into the fire. It quickly flares up and lights up slightly. When 1-1.5 centimeters burns out, you need to blow on it, if it doesn’t go out on its own.

Varnish and nylon leave a small residue, which in most cases can be easily removed with a fingernail. As a result, we have undamaged wiring cleared of varnish.

The main thing is not to keep the wiring on fire for too long, because... they can simply burn and fall off ((Some may find the option with a knife more convenient.

It's finally come to headphones

We cut the wire for them. Usually, headphone wires break right at the exit from the connector, and to be sure to cut off the broken part, we cut it 2-3 cm above the connector. You can go even higher - as you wish.

We expose the wires with it and clean them of varnish in the same way as the AUX cable wires.

Deciding which wires to twist

There are clearly more wires in the headset than three - there are five of them. Two wires are for the microphone, and three for the headphones. A frayed gold wire (ground) was wound over a thin white wire - a microphone one.

Now we are faced with an impossible task - twist the necessary wires together . In fact it's simple! Three AUX - wiring to three headphone wires. IN in this case It turned out that the colors of the internal wiring coincided and by twisting the same colors the headphones started working.

For information on how to determine the colors of the required wires, read the article:

You can also use this simplest method: we plug our connector into any audio device that is at hand. The cassette player was closest to everyone.

Most common color

earth - golden (yellow)

left - blue (green)

right - red

But like any other rule, this one also has exceptions, especially when it comes to headsets. For example, it happens that the right one is green, the left one is blue, and the red one is the microphone, or there are other mixtures of colors. But GOLDEN is always EARTH. Mixtures of colors with gold, in most cases also earth.

The gold one goes to both headphones, so it is common; current flows through it from each speaker, and through it, current flows into the speakers through the other two. Well that's if sooooo rude :-)

Therefore, the first thing we do is twist all the gold ones together. Now we alternately twist the wiring of the headphones being repaired with the wiring of the AUX cable. The bottom line is that the red wire of the AUX cable connector needs to be twisted with the red wire of the headphones and then the right earphone will start singing. In your case, the colors may differ and it may be that red needs to be combined with blue or in some other way. The main thing is gold on the ground, and screw the rest like this. so that both headphones play.

Have you determined? Great! Now we cut off the wiring that remains unclaimed or twist it with a common wire. I chose to cut it off.

We twist

In order to ensure maximum contact It is better to first loosen the two wires being twisted, place one on top of the other, and then twist tightly. This option is preferable to twisting each one separately and then together.

So the wires are twisted, the headphones are singing - there’s a smile on your face).

We isolate the wiring

Since we removed the varnish from the wires, they now have no insulation. If you close the twists together, you will either make yourself a mono or cut off one channel. Therefore, they need to be isolated to prevent short circuits between themselves.

First, we isolate each twist separately. In addition to the insulation itself, this will also strengthen the connections. For some reason I did this with masking tape, probably lying closer. It doesn't matter.

Now let's wrap everything together with wide tape, 3 - 4 layers. Or 5 - a matter of taste)

Usually in such cases I prefer to space the twists further apart so that they do not touch each other.

READY!

Here is the long-awaited result of all our efforts :-)It may have looked like a long time, but it’s not at all! The whole process will take 15 minutes. The main thing is to understand what you are doing. And I hope that now you understand how to fix headphones without a soldering iron.

Improving technology:

Still, using tape is not kosher. Therefore, I propose to improve the technology a little, again without a soldering iron.

You will have to buy a heat-shrinkable tube, also known as thermal casing, at an electronics store or hardware store. This is such a clever tube that can shrink in diameter by at least half when heated. This miracle costs about $0.1 - $0.5 per meter.

We will need two thermal casings with diameters of 1-2 mm and the second 4-5 mm.We put pieces of thin thermal tube on our twists. We cut the pieces with one and a half margin.

Now you need to heat up the thermal chamber. Usually I did this with a soldering iron, but... We agreed that I didn’t have one, and the story was about how to fix headphones without a soldering iron, I had to get out of it.

The method turned out to be quite effective and the heat tubes shrank. You can use a halogen or iron. In principle, people use a regular hairdryer to warm them up.Usually, while they are still hot, I additionally flatten them with my fingers because... It’s not always possible to have tubes of the required diameter on hand, and even then they stick together slightly inside.

Before twisting the wires, you must remember to put a 4 mm thermal tube on the headphone wire. This heat tube must subsequently be put on the joint and also compressed with the heat of the lamp. In general, you can squeeze lighters over a fire, but you can accidentally melt or set fire to excess.

I used a piece about 8 or even 10 cm long. To strengthen it, the end of the thermal tube was put directly on the rubber band of the connector.

The view has clearly changed for the better

As you can see, this is not as difficult as it seems and now you know how to fix headphones without a soldering iron. Such a repair cannot be called complete; it is rather an alternative for emergencies.

Of course, it is possible that your headphones will work for a long time after such repairs.In any case, it will be safer to solder twisted headphone wires. This is not at all difficult to do. Read how:

The material was prepared exclusively for the site

It's no secret that the most common malfunction of any headphones (plugs, earbuds or large over-ear ones) is a broken wire near the plug. In this situation, there is nothing left to do except change the plug on the headphones. This is easy and can be done by anyone who has ever held a soldering iron in their hands. The only thing that would be desirable is to understand the intricacy of the wires (in some headphones there are as many as 6 wires under the cable insulation!)

Today we’ll talk about how to solder headphones to a plug without making any mistakes.

No need to think about anything, just act according to the given step by step instructions and you can easily repair your favorite headphones.

So, let's go!

1. Ruthlessly bite off the plug:

2. How to replace the plug on headphones? For this we will use the old connector. Let's gut it using a sharp stationery knife, ripping it right along the seam. This method allows you to disassemble almost any plug:

Open the plastic shell and take out the insides. Do you see a group of contacts with pieces of wire soldered to them?

We remember the pinout of the headphone wires (or better yet, write down on a piece of paper which wire was soldered to which contact). Here Standard headphone wire layout by color:

green wire- this is the left channel;
red wire- this is the right channel;
yellow (copper) wire- general.

More detailed information You will find information about which wire in the headphones is responsible for what later in this article (scroll to the very end).

3. Now you need to clean up the wires a little headphones. What the result should look like:

we connect the common wires (which are in colorless varnish) together and tin the very ends:

A few words about how to re-solder the plug on the headphones. It will be bad to pick, because... the wires are covered with varnish insulation. To make the process easier, you can lightly burn the very ends with a lighter.

How to tin wires from headphones using an aspirin tablet, as shown in this video:

Personally, I made do with an ordinary knife, which I used to carefully clean off the enamel coating from the wires. And after that I got tinned in the usual way- with solder and rosin.

4. Now we find an old unnecessary pen somewhere:

and separate the very tip from it:

This will be the body of our new plug.

5. Prepare a piece of heat shrink, which will protect the wires from sharp bends at the exit from the plug:

6. It's time to solder the headphone wires to the plug. You need to solder in full accordance with the colors of the wires in the headphones (we remember where which color was soldered or look for our piece of paper where everything is written down):

Don't forget to pre-fit the casing and heat shrink onto the wire!

7. Make sure everything works. To do this, turn the multimeter into dialing mode, plug the headphones into your ears and touch the probes one by one different contacts. All sorts of rustling and clicking noises should be heard in different channels.

Or you can try to plug this unfinished plug into your phone or MP3 player and start playing music. In the latter case, it is important to make sure that the right and left channels work independently of each other (use the balance adjustment).

8. If everything sounds right, shrink the heat shrink using a hair dryer or a regular lighter:

9. Apply a couple of drops of epoxy glue:

Glue everything together and leave for several hours until complete polymerization.

10. We rejoice how we fixed the headphone plug!

Look at the photo how I managed to solder new plug to headphones:

In my opinion, this is the easiest way to fix a headphone plug of all those proposed on the Internet. Despite the fact that the result is quite decent. If you don’t look closely, it’s not even clear that it’s homemade.

By the way, at first I had the idea to cook baking soda and superglue paste to use it instead of epoxy resin.

But it turned out that this mixture hardens so quickly (almost instantly!) that this option had to be discarded as unsuitable.

That's all. Now you know how to make headphones if the plug is broken and which wire in the headphones is responsible for what. Always try to figure out how everything works, how to repair the plug on your headphones with your own hands, save your money!

Additionally about the colors of wires in headphones

How to properly solder wires to a headphone plug is out of the question if you are not familiar with the colors of wires in headphones and their meaning (for example, do you know what the green wire is responsible for?)

A different number of wires may come to the headphone plug:

2 wires (for mono headphones);
3 wires (for mono or stereo headphones depending on the connection diagram);
4 wires (for stereo headphones);
5 or 6 wires (for stereo headset with microphone).

2 wires

I don’t think anyone needs to explain how to repair a headphone plug if they only have two wires. It is basically impossible to confuse anything here.

3 wires

There are always two wires coming from each ear - plus and minus, but sometimes the manufacturer combines the minuses of both speakers together and it turns out that only three wires come to the plug. To make it clearer, here is a soldering diagram for a headphone plug:

This picture explains even more clearly where to solder the wires to the headphone plug:

Most often, the wires are coated with varnish of different colors:

red- right channel;
green, blue or white wire - left channel;
clear varnish- common wire (ground).

Of course, there are no strict standards and colors may vary. Here's what it looks like in real life:

Let's see how to properly solder a wire to the headphones (3 wires):

4 wires

If your plug has 4 wires, then there may be options.

Option one: you have ordinary headphones without a microphone and without buttons (the plug has only 3 contacts). Then these four wires are simply two pairs of wires from each of the speakers. Their disadvantages are the same color (copper), and their advantages are different (usually blue and red or green and red):

In this case, common wires (those that are the same color) are connected together and soldered to general contact plug. You should immediately understand how to solder 4 wires from the headphones to the plug from the figure:

Here's how to solder headphones to such a jack:

Option two: you have a full-fledged headset (i.e. headphones with a microphone) and the plug has 4 contacts. Then, most likely, these four wires are one wire from each speaker, one signal wire from the microphone, and one common wire for all.

Schematically, this can be indicated as follows:

And here's how to make a plug on the headphones (correct soldering of headphones when there are 4 wires):

Most often, a microphone wire only looks like one wire, but in reality it is two wires: a thin wire in white PVC insulation completely wrapped in enameled copper wire (in colorless enamel). Something like this:
And in this case, it would be more correct to say that the headphones have not 4 wires, but all 5.

5, 6 or more wires

Depending on the implementation option, there may be 5 or more wires inside the cable from the headset. Up to 10! Be that as it may, they always try to make the signal wire from the microphone in its own “ground” braid.

In short, if you gutted your cable and it looks something like this:

or even like this:
then no one will immediately tell you how to properly solder the plug to such headphones. There can only be one piece of advice here: take a tester and test all the wires until you determine where the right ear is and where the left is. The remaining wires are to the microphone.

Determine by color which wires may be common and connect them all together. Solder all signal signals according to the connector pinout (see pictures above).

Then test the headphones and microphone. If something is wrong, look for the reason. No one will really tell you anything here; proceed using the scientific dildo method.

Everyone who uses headphones has sooner or later encountered the fact that they fail. As a rule, this manifests itself in the form of one non-working speaker. This kind of breakdown is typical for headphones, and it is due to the fact that their wires are constantly bent. Below in the photo, red circles show the areas most at risk of cliffs.

As practice shows, if such a breakdown occurs, in most cases performance can be restored. We'll tell you in detail how to solder your headphones so that they continue to delight you with clear sound.

Problem Definition

A break can occur in the plug, at the speaker, or somewhere in the cable. The latter case is extremely rare and is usually caused by mechanical impact to the wire if handled carelessly. In such a situation, it is recommended to completely change it, since the adhesions will create a problem area.

Most often, the problem lies in the plug itself, since this is the most critical place. In most cases, by pressing on the base of the connector, or bending the cable near it, you can find a position in which both headphones will start working. As a result of this, we can state that the problem lies precisely in the plug.

Standard plugs

Before we begin the repair, let's look at the most common types of headphone jacks, as well as their connection diagram. This will help us decide how to solder the headphone wires if the cable has 4 wires (headset with microphone) or 3 wires.

Below is a classic diagram for connecting headphones connected to each other by a common ground. In quality devices such as Koss Porta Pro, Philips, Sony, Sennheiser, etc. a separate shielded wire is used for each channel; in more budget implementations, there may be a common shield for two channels.

For headphones with a microphone, the plug has an additional contact pad, a diagram of such a connection is shown below.

Note that many manufacturers mobile devices can use non-standard connectors; we will consider this topic at the end of the article.

List of necessary equipment for repair

To work we will need:

Not a very powerful soldering iron, 25 W is enough. On the Internet, of course, you can find a method on how to connect the wires in headphones without a soldering iron, but this cannot be compared with the reliability of soldering. Therefore, if you don’t have it, buy it (price starts from $3), it will always be useful in everyday life;
rosin and solder;
new connector (check that it is the same type as the one we are replacing).

Algorithm of actions for repairs

Now that we have everything ready, let's start restoring the headphones:

we cut off the old connector, approximately at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from its base, so we will get rid of the problematic part of the wire;
remove the insulation so as not to damage the conductors. As a result, we will see four wires, two of which will be covered with insulating colored varnish, and two without insulation (an example is shown in the photo);

in order to tin the wires, it will be necessary to remove the insulating varnish from them; this is done using a stationery knife or fine-grained sandpaper. We twist the screen of the right and left channels together;
as mentioned above, it can be three wires, two of which are channels, and one is a common screen, in this case we simply remove the insulating varnish from them;
we disassemble the new connector, do not forget to thread the stereo headphone wires through its base, as shown in the photo (otherwise you will have to redo everything);

Let's start soldering the wires to the connector. It is recommended to start with the general one, after which we solder the left and right channels. The result is shown in the photograph;

After letting the wires and connector cool for a few minutes, you can test the result. To do this, connect the plug to the audio output socket and check the operation of the headphones. If everything is fine, we proceed to assembling the connector. What to do if one earphone still does not work will be discussed separately;
We fix the wire; for this purpose, there is a clamp on the connector (on the contact where the common wire is soldered), an insulated cable is inserted into it and crimped using pliers. In the photo below, the clamp is marked with a red circle on the unsoldered connector;

For greater reliability, we insulate the contacts with electrical tape, and at maximum proximity to them we recommend tying a knot on the cable. This will significantly reduce the risk that an accidental jerk will break the solder.

We assemble the connector and use the headphones for our own pleasure. If you need to solder a plug to 4-wire headphones (that is, with a microphone), the principle of operation is almost the same.

Now consider the option that one of the speakers continues to be inoperative after replacing the plug; there are several reasons for this:

poor-quality soldering, it is necessary to carefully check it;
there is a problem with the headphone speaker, there is a very high probability that the wire has broken near it;
problems with the cable itself, as mentioned above, it is not recommended to extend the cable or connect it at break points.

As you can see, in two out of three cases the problem is solvable. If the reason is poor-quality soldering, you should re-solder the connector more carefully; if there is a break near the speaker, proceed according to the following algorithm:

cut the wire near the base of the earphone;
we disassemble the earphone, as a rule, they are made to be self-latching, so there will be no problems with this;
we remove the insulation from the wire and strip and tinning it;
if you have a multimeter, then at this stage you can ring the headphone lead to ensure its integrity;
We solder the wires, test the headphones, and assemble them.

Video: How to solder headphone wires

Non-standard connectors

We have already mentioned that many manufacturers produce devices where the input on the headset differs from the standard one. For example, some models of Nokia, Samsung, Ericsson, etc. It is also common to find headsets that use a USB connector instead of a standard plug, for example, WH-205.

As for the technology for repairing such headphones, it is practically no different from the usual one. The only exception may be searching for an original plug for a particular phone model. But, given the increased number of “left” manufacturers original spare parts, it is not difficult to buy such a connector.

In addition, do not forget that to connect a standard headset to a non-standard connector, you can use an appropriate adapter, for example, such as shown in the photo.

If desired, such an adapter can be soldered independently, but given the low cost of Chinese products, this is not particularly necessary.

As you can see, soldering headphones correctly is not difficult; all that is needed for this is accuracy and skills in working with a soldering iron. Even if you weren’t able to make the repair the first time, don’t be upset, check everything again.

Hi all! Probably everyone has encountered this problem: you bought yourself headphones... You were happy listening to your favorite music through them. And then bam! And one earphone channel stopped working. It's a shame. But let’s not sniffle and run to the store for others. After all, we are Radio Amateurs (yes, yes, exactly with capital letters), people are proud, and we cannot afford this. So let's get started. These are the collapsible 3.5 mm “mini jack” plugs that are now available for sale. Of course, their quality is Lately, leaves much to be desired. And recently, a friend gave me headphones (cheap, Chinese) to repair. I didn’t have to see the plug, so I’ll have to take the collapsible one mentioned above.

First, let's cut/bite off some wire:

Afterwards we remove a little insulation so that the wires can be seen:

Carefully burn the varnish insulation of all 3 wires (about half).

Then we clean it up with a knife or scissors. Unfortunately, I was not able to photograph this, but the essence is simple and clear - we apply the wires to the finger and with gentle movements we clean the wires from the burnt varnish.

Now we dip the stripped wire into flux (if any), you can do without it, the wires are tinned faster with it (with rosin it takes longer).

We make sure that a drop of solder hangs on the soldering iron, and in it, so to speak, we warm up the wire until it becomes tinned. Here are the already tinned wires:

Now, you need to pass the wire through the plug body. As it often happens, I soldered everything, but forgot the case - and I have to solder everything back ( yes, this happened 10 times - approx. editorial staff). Now we solder: the wire without color (transparent) insulation (varnish), i.e. minus (common), solder in the middle:

After, we solder the other two wires - two pluses, blue or red, or red and green, to the side contacts:

Now we crimp the wire with two petals:

We screw the plug housing into place, and you're done - we repaired the headphones ourselves!

P.S. . A little life hack: if you want to prevent the spring from getting inside the body, with a little effort, slightly pull it out and turn it a little counterclockwise, since it goes further in width, it will get stuck there. And now the spring does not run back and forth.

Almost any plug can be repaired this way - microphone, headset, other audio equipment, and so on. Thank you for your attention! Author - Admin4638.

Additions to the article:

If possible, it is better to use an existing connector, if it has survived, or a similar one from more or less expensive (but already dead, otherwise why bother with this?) headphones. Because From experience, new connectors are found to be of extremely poor quality. The contacts there are crimped and very loosely.
Because it is used old connector it needs to be cleaned of insulation (I cut it with a utility knife along the seam formed by the mold), soldered to the soldering points (usually everything is there except the mass; the mass will have to be slightly cleaned and tinned). while not forgetting about heat shrinkage on the center (L) and middle (P).
By the way, if there are veins in a non-flammable polymer, as in the example, then when stripping with a knife, the wires are damaged, and if it is also oxygen-free copper, then they break immediately, therefore you just need to solder by tinning such an end without stripping it in a drop of tin. When heated, the polymer will partially expose the cable to a length sufficient for soldering (about 2 mm).
For beauty, uniformity and waterproofing, before shrinking the top layer of heat shrink, you can pour hot glue under it; when shrinking, excess glue will come out - you can either remove it immediately toilet paper(a universal cleaner of any surface from almost any contaminant) or cut off when hardened. The second or third time you'll get masterpieces :)

P.S. At one time, KOSS earbuds with a gold-plated jack served as connector donors - it is compact, beautiful and of high quality. But listening to these speakers at maximum simply broke down the speakers, by the way, a valuable source of neodymium magnets - washers. Thank you for your attention. Ringo aka Pavel K.