What breaks down in energy-saving light bulbs. How to repair an energy-saving lamp yourself

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It is quite possible to repair energy-saving lamps with your own hands; the main thing is to have a diagram that illustrates the principle of switching on and operating a specific light source. There are standard faults that occur most often, which made it possible to create a semblance of instructions that allows you to accurately disassemble the lamp and repair it.

Operating principle and diagram

Compact fluorescent (also energy-saving) light sources, like any type of gas-discharge light bulbs, consist of several basic elements: a bulb with electrodes, a base (threaded or pin), and an electronic ballast.

Such lighting elements usually use a built-in version of the ballast, which ensures more compact dimensions of the product.

The principle of operation of energy-saving lamps: after applying voltage, the electrodes heat up, which leads to the release of electrons; inside a gas-filled flask (inert gas, mercury vapor), contact of elementary particles with mercury atoms leads to the formation of plasma, which produces ultraviolet radiation.

But UV is invisible to the human eye, so the design of the light source includes a special substance (phosphor) that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and, as a result, visible light appears.

A diagram describing the inclusion and operation of an 11 W energy-saving lamp:

The supply circuit ensures the inclusion of inductor L2, fuse F1, capacitor C4, and diode bridge. The starting circuit includes: dinistor, elements C2, R6, D1. Protection is provided by a node consisting of D2, D3, R3, R1.

Determining the degree of damage

Before you begin repairing an energy-saving lamp, you need to assess the extent of the breakdown and the scope of work as a whole. If the light source does not respond to attempts to turn on, it is recommended to inspect the bulb. Towards the end of the service life declared by the manufacturer, the phosphor fades and the light becomes dimmer.

This phenomenon is completely natural for such light bulbs; accordingly, it is useless to disassemble the housing, since the bulb cannot be repaired.

But in the case when the light source stops turning on much earlier than scheduled, the main causes of failure are a burnt electrode thread and failure of one of the elements of the ballast. In both cases, you will have to disassemble the product.

Having examined the design of the lamp more carefully, you can see that at the base of the bulb there is a housing where the ballast, consisting of two parts, is hidden. It needs to be opened, for which special latches are provided. The housing elements can be disconnected using a simple screwdriver.

All actions must be performed slowly, as there is a risk of damaging the wires. The performance of the electrodes can be checked with a multimeter. The resistance of these threads is in the range of 10-15 Ohms (normal).

Accordingly, it will be quite simple to identify which of them burned out. If there are no doubts about the performance of the electrodes, the breakdown is probably caused by problems with the ballast.

Finding faulty ballast elements

The condition of the board is first assessed visually. It is recommended to carefully examine all elements of the circuit from both sides. Under severe operating conditions, a short circuit or breakdown may occur.

In this case, it is easy to notice a change in the external characteristics of one or more board elements (deformation, blackening, etc.). If there are obvious problems, you should still check the entire circuit.

Fuse

It is very easy to determine - this element connects the base (central contact) and the board. The fuse is covered with insulating material and connected to a resistor. Determining its performance is carried out using the same multimeter. It is necessary to install one of the contact probes on the area where the fuse was attached, the other probe to the board at the corresponding location point.

The working element will allow you to see the required resistance level (within 10 ohms), but if it burns out, the multimeter will show one.

In a situation where the problem is really in the fuse, you need to remove it (“bite off”), and this is done closer to the resistor body. This will allow you to easily solder the new element.

Flask

Before starting to check the board, the electrodes of the light source located in the bulb are checked. How this is done is described above. But what to do if, after all, one of the threads turns out to be burnt? It is unlikely that it will be possible to replace it with a new one due to the lack of necessary components.

There is still a way out - you can use a resistor with a similar resistance level. The value of this parameter can be determined by checking both threads, one of which will probably be working. The resistor must be soldered parallel to the burnt thread. Additionally, it is recommended to check all semiconductors on the board.

Transistors and resistors

To evaluate the performance of transistors, they must first be carefully removed from the circuit. This need is explained simply - the p-n junctions of this element are shunted by one of the transformer windings. If a breakdown is detected, you can replace the transistor with a new one with similar characteristics. Moreover, the type does not matter, since, provided the parameters are repeated, the main difference in this case can only be the dimensions of the housing.

The resistance of the resistors must be checked in the same way - with a multimeter. You can try to see the characteristics (nominal resistance) on the product body. If you have another fully working lamp, it is permissible to compare all elements by ringing and determining their parameters.

Capacitors

In this case, all actions are similar to those previously announced when checking other components of the circuit. If an assessment of the condition of the element shows a problem, it is recommended to replace it.

Visually, most capacitors in the event of a breakdown are immediately deformed (swelling is observed, drips appear). If you bought a cheap Chinese lamp, then the failure of this element is the main reason for the malfunction of the light source.

Assembly

Repairing energy-saving light bulbs at home will be inexpensive, since the cost of components is extremely low. For example, resistors of different types, diodes are offered for only 1-5 rubles/piece. The price of transistors is slightly higher - up to 10 rubles / piece. Therefore, it is quite possible to buy several sets of parts at once, so that in the future, if problems arise with the lamp, you can quickly solve them.

Before assembling the housing, you need to check the functionality of the light source. To do this, you need to connect the wires and insert the lamp into the socket. If it glows, it means the assembly work can be completed. In this case, all that remains is to return the board to its place, connect the two parts of the case so that they snap into place.

How to avoid frequent breakdowns

There are many reasons for the failure of light sources of this type: short circuit, breakdowns, burnt coil, etc. To avoid regularly changing such lamps and extend their service life, you need to follow certain recommendations. First of all, ensure the outflow of heat during heating, for which you need to use wider and more open lampshades/plafonds.

A visual inspection of a lamp does not always allow one to draw a conclusion about its suitability or unsuitability. There are cases when the tungsten filament is not damaged, but the light bulb in the lamp does not light. Things are even more complicated with LED or fluorescent lamps. There are several ways to determine the cause and thereby confirm or refute the malfunction of the lamp. You can learn how to do this from this article.

The simplest way

The simplest diagnostic method is suitable for both incandescent light bulbs and fluorescent and LED lamps. He suggests screwing the suspicious light bulb into another lamp and turning it on. Unfortunately, this is not always possible. Sometimes the threaded part of the base is made with a deviation from the standard size and, when screwed into the socket, does not close both electrical contacts. Or there are no more lamps with the exact same socket in the house.

When buying a light bulb in an electrical goods store, many people paid attention to how the seller checked it using a tester. The tester body has several connectors designed for diagnosing different types of light bulbs: incandescent, fluorescent and halogen. Its task is to check the integrity of the conductors inside the lamp, as evidenced by the sound signal. This same operation can be done at home using a multimeter or a multifunctional indicator screwdriver.

Checking with a digital tester

In dialing mode

Each multimeter has a continuity mode, which can be used to check the integrity of the electrical connection. This mode is indicated on the instrument panel by a special symbol. To check the functionality of the light bulb:

set the switch to the dialing mode (checking for a break);
touch the central contact with one probe and the side contact with the other (for incandescent lamps with a threaded base).

If the lighting fixture is working properly, the tester makes a sound and a number within 3-200 Ohms appears on the LCD display.

Before each measurement, you should short-circuit the probes with each other to ensure that the tester's measuring circuit is working properly.

Compact fluorescent (CFL) and LED lamps cannot be tested in this way due to the presence of electronic circuitry inside. Separately, you can check the suitability of only the CFL glass spiral. To do this, you need to carefully separate it from the base part and ring two pairs of wire leads going to the electronic ballast board.

In resistance test mode

There is another, more accurate, method for diagnosing spiral lamps using a multimeter. They can not only determine the suitability of a light bulb, but also find out its resistance. Why is this necessary? For example, the factory imprint on the bulb of an incandescent lamp has been erased. Therefore, its power is unknown. This method will help solve this problem.

Now let's talk about how to test a light bulb with a multimeter in resistance mode. To do this, you need to move the switch to a position with a limit of 200 Ohms, and then touch the electrical contacts of the lamp with the probes in the same way as in the dialing mode. In this case, there will be no sound signal and the LCD will show the resistance value in Ohms. If “1” remains on the display, then there is a break inside the lighting fixture.

Based on the measured resistance of the coil in a cold state, one can draw a conclusion about its power. The table we compiled shows data on the main types of lamps used in everyday life.

During measurements, you should remember that due to poor contact of the probes with the tester, the result obtained may differ from the table one by several ohms.

Checking with an indicator screwdriver

To check whether a light bulb is working properly at home, you do not need to have a multimeter on hand. It is much faster to do this using a multifunctional indicator screwdriver. Its difference from a conventional indicator is the presence of a coin cell battery inside the case. The functionality of such a screwdriver is checked by touching its metal contacts at the ends with your fingers. In this case, the indicator LED inside it should light up.

The sequence of actions for checking an incandescent lamp is as follows:

Take the light bulb in one hand, touching the thread (side contact).
Take an indicator screwdriver in the other hand and touch the central contact of the lamp with a metal rod, and touch the end of the screwdriver with your thumb. Thus, the circuit is closed through the screwdriver, the lamp and the human body. The entire test takes just a couple of seconds.

Finally…

In conclusion, it is worth noting once again that due to the complexity of the design, it is not possible to determine the performance of an LED or compact fluorescent lamp using a multimeter or an indicator screwdriver. The only way to check such light bulbs is by applying operating voltage to their contacts.

The above methods for checking household light bulbs will also work in the case of car lamps with filament, as well as T8 fluorescent fluorescent lamps.

Energy saving lamp device

Energy saving lamps consist of three components:

base;
electronic unit;
flasks of a fluorescent lamp.

Energy saving lamp circuit

From the power supply, the voltage passes through the RC filter and is connected to the bridge diagonal of the bridge circuit, the second bridge diagonal is connected to the circuit, which is:

transistor smoothing filter;
current stabilizer,

- having a connection to the load. The load here, of course, is an energy-saving lamp connected in parallel through a capacitor.

A detailed description of the circuit is not of great importance here in this topic and contains a brief introduction.

Power supply for energy saving lamps

The electronic unit of an energy-saving lamp contains such electronic elements as:

high voltage electrolytic capacitor;
medium power transistors;
diodes;
chokes;
high voltage capacitors;
high frequency transformer.

The listed electronic elements are checked for fault detection using the device. In order to check the capacitance of a capacitor of 47 nanofarads from the presented circuit, the multimeter is set in the range from 20 to 200 nanofarads with the probes connected to the socket for measuring the capacitance of capacitors. The inductor and windings of the transformer are checked for current conductivity - during such a test, the device is set to the resistance measurement position.

Incorrect selection of electronic elements when replacing them will not lead to a positive result. Diagnostics of electronic elements is carried out as usual - in a passive way.

Light from energy saving lamps

The user chooses the lighting of the room individually. That is, depending on the fact that the light emitted from such a lamp does not harm vision.

Energy saving lamps

The picture above provides a complete explanation of the differences between incandescent lamps and energy-saving lamps. A comparison of the difference in lamp power clearly shows that, for example, a 20W energy-saving lamp will also emit light like a 100W incandescent lamp.

The service life of incandescent lamps is much shorter than that of energy-saving lamps. If the operating life of incandescent lamps is, say, 1000 hours, then energy-saving lamps will have a operating life of 10,000 hours.

Do-it-yourself repair of energy-saving lamps

Dear site visitors!!!

This topic is supplemented with an example from my own practice. Let’s say an energy-saving lamp at work or at home breaks down, don’t rush to throw it away, because it can be repaired.

To do this, you need to open \disassemble the lamp\ as shown in photograph No. 1. After you have opened the lamp by disconnecting the lamp bulb from the base, to further inspect the lamp you will need to cut two wires in order to diagnose the lamp \photo No. 2\.

Here you need to disconnect the base from the electronic unit. The wires are cut in the middle - for the convenience of extending wires \photo No. 3\.

In this example, during inspection, a piece of wire with black insulation was slightly burnt and needed to be unsoldered in order to carry out the inspection\photo No. 4\. The wire with red insulation was also in an unreliable connection.

We check the wire with black insulation from the central contact of the base with a probe \photo No. 5\, a resistor is soldered to this section of the wire. Of course, we need to measure the resistance of this element.

We install the device in the range of the lowest resistance measurement \photo No. 6\. The display of the device indicates a resistance close to the short circuit mode. This will mean that this section of wire is in good condition.

We check the second wire from the side contact of the base; here we can also use the probe \photo No. 7\. To check, we touch one end of the wire with our fingers, and with the other hand we touch the probe to the base contact. In this example, when checking, the contact connection of the wire with the base was unreliable and the wire had to be unsoldered from the base.

To solder two pieces of wire to the internal contacts of the base, the soldering area is etched with soldering acid. You can use a cotton swab dipped in soldering acid for this \photo No. 8\.

Then, after we soldered two pieces of wire to the internal contacts of the base, small pieces of cambric are put on these wires \photo No. 9\.

After soldering the wires, cambrics are put on the junction, instead of insulation with insulating tape. Next, after the wires from the base of the energy-saving lamp are soldered to the electronic unit, we carefully connect the lamp bulb to the base. We check the lamp again with a probe \photo No. 10\ - everything is fine.

Together we examined a minor malfunction of an energy-saving lamp. The malfunction consisted in the absence of a contact connection between the base and the electronic unit, and there was no need to replace any electronic element.

The only thing that can be noted here when reassembling the lamp was that there was a weak connection between the lamp and the base. When disassembling the lamp, the connection was slightly damaged; the connection point was glued with Moment superglue. The lamp is currently working and glows wonderfully.

That's all for now. Follow the section.

Modern energy-efficient light bulbs help not only save electricity consumption, but also allow you to choose a design with a more suitable color spectrum. Repairing an energy-saving lamp with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Even a novice master can cope with this task. It is enough to understand the structure of the product and the rules for disassembling it, as well as study possible problems and options for solving them.

Product design

The features of energy-saving lamps are due to significant advantages that appear during operation. In addition to saving energy and reducing loads on the household network, such light sources are characterized by a long service life. In addition, a small amount of heat is released during operation, creating a uniform glow that is comfortable for the eyes.

Depending on the manufacturing features of the bulb, all lamps can be divided into several types. Some of them:

The structure of any energy-saving product of domestic and foreign production is the same. All lamps consist of several elements:

A gas discharge tube, which is needed to emit a stream of light.
A housing that has a startup and power supply circuit. Scientifically this is called electronic ballast.

In the area of the light bulb base, the main parts are presented in the form of power contacts and a classic thread that is screwed into the socket. The tubular flask is equipped with electrodes and sealed on both sides. Its interior is treated with a special phosphor, and inside the container there is a mixture based on mercury vapor and inert gas. During the process of ionization of the composition, the switched-on light shines.

It is important to note that, regardless of type, such units are not intended for installation in lighting fixtures equipped with light level controls or dimmers.

Parsing rules

If a light bulb stops shining, this does not always mean that it needs to be thrown away. An advantageous difference between such designs and classic incandescent lamps is considered to be maintainability. To eliminate various defects, the first step is to disassemble the energy-saving lamp. Step by step guide:

First, you need to carefully use a thin screwdriver to pry off the cover of the product in those areas marked with arrows.
If the latches have lost their functions, you need to measure the diameter of the product using a caliper. Then, using a small disk cutter, make several cuts from the outer part of the case at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other, and then release the clamps with a screwdriver.

The cutter will help to effectively cope with such devices that have been in use for a long time, and the plastic on the body has already dried out. After repair, the structure can be assembled in reverse order. To fix the elements, it is permissible to use silicone-based sealant or any adhesive for plastic.

Troubleshooting

The disassembled device must be carefully inspected. Particular attention should be paid to the working board, and then to other elements. To separate the base from the overall system, you should unwind the wire located on the rod, and then untie the filaments and release the board.

The most common causes of failure are the combustion of the main parts in the circuit of an energy-saving lamp or the burnout of the spiral.

Checking the bulb and fuse

The flask may break or the spirals in it will burn out. In both cases, the part can be replaced with the same or less power if the house has a product with a whole bulb, but with a burnt out circuit board.

In addition, you can repair an energy-saving lamp with a burnt spiral. In this case, it is assumed that one of the two elements remains operational. It is necessary to short-circuit the leads of the failed part, then the load will be placed on the remaining functioning element, and the product will serve for some time.

If the device bulb is intact, the problem may be in the fuse. First of all, you need to check its functionality - one end is connected to the board, and the second is fixed to the central contact in the base using soldering.

Checking the functionality of parts is quite simple using a multimeter. For this, a continuity test or resistance measurement mode with a value of 200 Ohms is used. The probes of the device must be applied to the central part of the base and the soldering point on the board. If the element is working, the device values should be within 10 ohms. When the multimeter outputs one, this indicates a break. A non-working fuse must be carefully cut off in the resistor area, and then solder the new part.

Diodes and generator

If it is determined that the fuse is working, you should check the functionality of the diode bridge. These manipulations can also be carried out using a multimeter in dial mode. There is no need to desolder elements from the board. The red wire must be connected to the anode, therefore the black wire must be connected to the cathode. In this case, the device indicators should be at the level of 500. When connected on the contrary, the values increase to 1500. If the number 1 is displayed on the display, this indicates a diode break. When, when changing conductors, the numbers on the screen are from 0 to 500, this means that the diodes are broken.

Manufacturers of quality products often place a special filter element against electromagnetic interference in front of the diode bridge. Basically it is a choke with a phase and zero winding, and there are also several capacitors. This element is needed to prevent interference from entering the power supply when the generator is operating. The latter distort the operation of various devices - radios, televisions, etc. However, such components are often absent in cheap Chinese products. If the filter part is in place, its windings should be intact and open.

Another important element is the generator, which is built on the basis of a transformer. The latter consists of three windings twisted in several turns (the base of the generator). The windings are connected according to a special circuit, thanks to which the opening and closing of the transistors is carried out alternately.

There are often two transistors, but there are systems with one unit. The main problem is that the generator cannot be checked using instruments. This is due to the fact that it very rarely breaks, but in the event of a malfunction, replacement with a working element is necessary.

Transistor testing

Transformer windings transmit control pulses to the transistor, a resistor is installed between the base and the winding, and the current is additionally limited by a resistor of several ohms. If a blackened part in the emitter circuit is found on the board, there is a possibility that the transistor has also failed. It can be checked directly on the board (for absence of a short circuit), but it is recommended to unsolder it and test it in diode test mode.

In low-power designs, elements marked 13001 are often used, in more powerful systems above 10 Watts - 13003. They have an NPN structure. This means that in test mode on a multimeter they will ring as two diodes switched by the anodes at the output.

To check, you need to connect the red wire to the base, and alternately connect the black wire to the collector and emitter. In this case, the value should be within 500. When connected, on the contrary, indicators of about 1500 are displayed. If the probes are placed on the emitter and collector, regardless of the polarity, the device should give an open circuit.

If the values coincide with those described above, this indicates the operability of the transistor, and when the system indicates a break at one of the first two stages, this indicates a failure of the part.

Resistors and capacitors

In energy-saving light bulbs, an electrolytic capacitor is placed between the generator and the diode bridge. This element is necessary to smooth out pulsations. Its capacity ranges from several units to tens of microfarads. There is a stamping on the top cover, which is necessary to avoid explosion. It should be noted that a cracked or swollen capacitor is non-functional.

When there are no visible violations on the case, you need to ring the system. There must be no short circuit between the plates. If the multimeter is equipped with a sound function, then at first it will beep, and as the element charges, it will quiet down.

There can be 4 types of breakdowns:

short circuit;
bloating;
break;
loss of capacity.

Another way to diagnose both a capacitor and a diode bridge is to check the voltage. The indicators should be at the level of 310 V with a network voltage of 220 V. It is important to note that when replacing a part, be sure to remember the polarity. Electrolytic structures have a negative mark. If soldering is carried out incorrectly, an active reaction will begin with the release of heat, and then the case will swell and explode.

When the lamp is turned on, the capacitor is charged. At this moment, a large current passes through the diode bridge. The diodes are subjected to heavy loads leading to current surges. This often causes the elements to fail over time. In some units, manufacturers install a special current-limiting resistor that reduces the current and acts as a fuse. More expensive products are equipped with large filter capacitors.

Repair process

Cheap ESL models are usually assembled without soldering - by using special fixing latches. With such an assembly, it is quite natural that during the operation of the lighting element the contacts burn out or oxidize. In such situations, the conductors must be stripped and then carefully soldered. Depending on the specific breakdown, you can perform the following repair measures yourself:

It is quite possible to repair energy-saving lamps yourself. This may seem like a difficult task at first. However, having sorted it out once, the thrifty owner will be able to extend the life of burnt products in the future, thereby significantly saving the family budget.

Repairing energy-saving lamps allows you to fully restore the functionality of light sources. To successfully repair a light bulb, you must adhere to a certain diagram, which indicates the principles of connection and operation of the lighting system.

Is it worth repairing energy-saving lamps?

The decision of whether or not to repair a lamp largely depends on the number of faulty light sources. If we are talking about a single burnt out light bulb, you should not bother with the labor-intensive repair process. When there are a lot of lamps, repairs make economic sense. From parts of several lamps, it is possible to assemble one that will be operational. It is known from practice that to assemble one light bulb you will need parts from 3-4 damaged light sources.

You should know! Any lamp is designed for a certain service life and is characterized by a limited switching reserve. The service life is most often indicated in hours (for example, 10 or 20 thousand hours).

When deciding to repair a lamp, you should think about the upcoming costs. You will have to spend money on buying parts (if they cannot be taken from light bulbs that have burned out), on a trip to the store or to the market. In addition, the process of searching for reasons is quite labor-intensive, so time should also be taken into account.

Note! Repaired lamps often have a defect: the lighting is connected with some delay.

Operating principle and diagram

Energy saving lamps include several components:

flask with electrodes;
threaded or pin base;
electronic ballast.

Energy-saving light bulbs use a built-in ballast. Thanks to this, the small size of the device is achieved.

The principle of operation of “housekeepers” is as follows:

As a result of the voltage applied, the electrodes heat up. As a result, electrons are released.
In a flask filled with gas (inert gas or mercury vapor), the interaction of elementary particles with mercury atoms occurs. A plasma appears, producing ultraviolet radiation.
However, ultraviolet radiation is invisible to the human eye. Therefore, the design of the device contains a special substance (luminophor) that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and instead emits ordinary light.

Connection diagram for an 11 W energy saving light bulb:

Causes of light bulb failure

Before repairing the lamp, it must be disassembled to determine the cause of the breakdown.

The best way to solve a problem is to take systematic action. Therefore, we will carry out the work in a clear sequence:

We prepare a set of tools.
We dismantle the lamp.
We look for and fix problems.
Reassemble the lamp in reverse order.

To perform the repair you will need the following tools:

flat screwdriver;
multimeter;
a 25–30 W soldering iron, as well as a soldering kit.

We carry out dismantling in this order:

First, we detach the flask from the base. The operation should be performed with extreme caution to maintain the integrity of the base. The parts of the light bulb are connected to each other with latches. To disassemble the device, it is recommended to use a screwdriver with a thin but wide blade. One of the latches is usually located where the technical data of the light bulb is indicated. We point the screwdriver into the gap and gently turn the halves apart. Next, we move the screwdriver in a circle until the lamp is divided into two parts, and then we unfasten the base and bulb.
Disconnect the wires going to the filaments. Two pairs of wires are attached to the bulb (they are filaments), to test for serviceability, they need to be disconnected. The threads are usually not soldered, but wound on wire pins in several turns. In this regard, detaching the threads is usually not difficult.
We check the lamp filaments for functionality. The flask most often contains a pair of spirals with a resistance of 10–15 ohms. We check using a multimeter. If the threads are not damaged, then the problem most likely lies in the ballast. And vice versa: if the threads are damaged, the ballast is operational.

Note! It is important to act carefully so as not to accidentally break the wiring coming from the light bulb base.

Troubleshooting

One of the possible causes of device failure is a short circuit and breakdown. First, we inspect the board for visible external damage. You need to inspect the diagram from both sides. External damage includes areas that are deformed or blackened by burning.

Advice! Even with obvious external damage, it is recommended to check the entire circuit.

Fuse

Finding the fuse is easy. This design component combines the base and the board. The fuse is treated with an insulator on top and connected to a resistor.

To check the functionality of the fuse, you will need a multimeter. We place one of the contact probes in the area with the fuse, and connect the other to the board. We measure resistance. If everything is in order, this indicator will be approximately 10 ohms. In the case of a burnt-out lamp, the multimeter will determine one.

If the cause of the failure is the fuse, it must be removed. You need to “bite off” the fuse closer to the resistor housing. This approach will enable trouble-free soldering of the new element.